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Old 05-11-2014, 07:46 PM   #1
seekeronsaltspring OP
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Location: Salt Spring Island BC Canada
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Clutch problems again maybe!

What would cause the clutch to change its adjustments? And does feathering it at times cause it to over heat and melt? Have to wonder if its was fully disgauging or just slipping when I pulled in the clutch?

Went up the mountain again, first time this year. Kept the speed down by feathering the clutch and using the hill to drop the speed down for the deep pot holes, near the top it seem to bog down the engine and not spin the back tire but the clutch seemed to be slipping. Had low rpm but no forward motion, Pulled in the clutch and back down for a second run and made it over the the last bad spot. Then later today had to take up so free play in the clutch and then it seem to have got to the point were its hitting the speed o meter cable again.

Kind of thinking I have to open it up and see what going on in there. 1. did it over heat by slipping and bowled the plates or something. 2. the arm bent forward again. 3. something new?

I replaced the clutch plates and all disks last year and it worked ok. but seem still to near the speedometer cable to me.

So now its open up and check all things out and then seem what I need this time. Arm could be bent forward or the the plates damage . So how much heat does it take to melt the plates as I did not smell anything like burning clutch plates and it seem to work ok going down and for about 5 miles afterwards. Before the clutch stop releasing.


So any ideals what going on here before I rip it all open again. I getting to know my Ural insides a lots over the years,

David Peirce

the pictrue show it touching the cable perventing the clutch from opening
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Old 05-12-2014, 03:50 PM   #2
Biebs
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Kept the speed down by feathering the clutch

"Kept the speed down by feathering the clutch"

clutch should be treated as a on/ off device for longest wear.

Feathering clutch is causing clutch to slip create heat

Dry clutch ?? Ural don't know the clutch system but if a wet clutch with disks then will not smell if over heating just burning the oil.
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Old 05-12-2014, 04:00 PM   #3
seekeronsaltspring OP
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dry double plates ( spring backing plate - clutch disk- between plate - clutch disk- backing plate) and it does smell when over heated. What I do is brake and pull in the clutch as if I am stopping to lower the speed for the pot holes if I did not the bike would stall then I power back up and carry on as if starting to go. These holes about about 3 -6 inch deep now and its like hang on we going to bump around now and it bounces you off the road almost after hitting patch.

Well two engine mounts to go and the engine be off after supper then we see what inside.
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Old 05-12-2014, 06:39 PM   #4
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Got it open up, Burned the clutch out the backing plate is worn a bit first disk one side is gone and the other side is burned , the between plate is good, second disk it a bit burned on both sides and the spring plate looks good. When the old clutch went it was the spring plate that was damage by heat. There no sign of heat damage on the plates this time other that some marks that wear on the first plate, on the side if the clutch plate that burn off. Both clutch plates show signs of over heating and baking.

Hard to belive this all happen on one hill i am wondering if the clutch was over heating going up by slipping due to the load on the engine much like a pony brake action cause by weak springs allowing the plates to slip when the back wheel is under a high load.

I going to order new stronger springs and a longer rod and see if there a stronger arm too. Seems it have to come up from the states now.

DAvid
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Old 05-20-2014, 03:57 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seekeronsaltspring View Post
What I do is brake and pull in the clutch as if I am stopping to lower the speed for the pot holes if I did not the bike would stall then I power back up and carry on as if starting to go.
If your speed changes dramatically when you slow for those potholes, you should be downshifting a gear or two before accelerating again. Like someone else has mentioned, a clutch, and especially a dry clutch, is more of an on/off device never intended for intentional slipping in order to avoid shifting to a lower gear where the engine would not stall.
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Old 05-20-2014, 11:49 AM   #6
seekeronsaltspring OP
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first gear is a bit high in an ural and a drop of 4 to 6 inches in each hole at 10 to15 mph shakes the bones these days So one pulls in the clutch and does a rounding stop over them or just let the engine idle down if they are not too bad before powering back up to an rpm that gives you power to climb.

here the clutch arm after the new plates are in you see how close it is still to the speedometer hole have to wonder if it was coming to a stop before open the clutch wide causing a little heat at times.
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Old 05-20-2014, 05:19 PM   #7
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One of the issues a R90 in my Ural Patrol solved. Dropping down to minimum RPM's for obstacles then having the power to pick the load back up.
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Old 05-22-2014, 04:25 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seekeronsaltspring View Post
first gear is a bit high in an ural and a drop of 4 to 6 inches in each hole at 10 to15 mph shakes the bones these days So one pulls in the clutch and does a rounding stop over them or just let the engine idle down if they are not too bad before powering back up to an rpm that gives you power to climb.
Ah, now I understand. My first bike in the '60s was an 80cc Suzuki "Hillbilly" that had a second (larger) sprocket on the rear and an extra few links of chain to add for lowering the ratio during off-roading. Something simpler might be to add an outer ring to your existing sprocket to add more teeth, then just pull it to the side and fasten it out of the way when you want high speed on the road.
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Old 05-22-2014, 07:46 AM   #9
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Urals are shaft drive and so far gearing can not be changed, even if a lot of us have been waiting to see if they come up with a way,

After checking the new longer rod with the old one I found that that the rod that come out of the bike was wore down at the end at The ring like an cone, along with the sleeve that fits over the rod up to the ring. I been thinking all night what would do this and come up with two things the thrust bearing what not turning or at times when the clutch was open it was off set some at where the two part join and just ate itself away.( both sides are flat and butted up together

The picture below shows the two rods and you can see the coning on used rod. this made the whole linkage too short to keep the button outwards in its right postion but allowed it to work the swing arm inwards to where it could hit the speed o meter cable and act as if it hit a stop on the leveler.
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Old 05-22-2014, 07:50 AM   #10
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here the sleeve just before the bearing and you can see how the wear is inside of it It now fits tightly against the rod but is too short to work right. By the time the rod pushes on the spring plate on the clutch to open it wide the swing arm lever is hitting the speed o meter cable or as push in the button that it reaches it stop limit.
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Old 05-23-2014, 10:15 AM   #11
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I had a similar problem with the throwout rod in my Bnepr's clutch. I solved it by placing a ball bearing on top of the worn end of the shaft. This shimmed it out to make up for the worn off dimension and added a hardened, rolling surface at the point of wear which apparently cured the problem.
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