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Old 03-20-2010, 05:17 AM   #166
pops
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Any photos of a r1150gs leading link set up.
Please.
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Old 03-20-2010, 06:34 AM   #167
Eaglebeak
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Mine, triangulated.
Eliminates the need to bend the downtube. Tracks really well, easy to steer.
Built by a mate in Perth.



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Old 03-20-2010, 03:34 PM   #168
3legs
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Hi Andrew

Thats a new idea to an old problem. I'm just about to re do my link (I want to lengthen the downtubes for more ground clearance) and I was just going to go rebend a new sent of "legs" but I might have a go and trying your link down tubes.

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Old 03-20-2010, 05:40 PM   #169
AL-58
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Try and keep the links for the calipers more parallel to the swinging arm though. That design must make the front dive a bit under brakes as the brake disks pull the calipers and the fork uprights downwards. When the link is parallel to the swinging arm the pull is forwards against the uprights and has no effect on the suspension at all.

Calipers direct mounted on the swinging arm make the front lift and go hard under brakes, not pleasant when trying to brake on corrugations. Floating calipers allow your suspension to work even under brakes.

Al

Quote:
Originally Posted by 3legs
Hi Andrew

Thats a new idea to an old problem. I'm just about to re do my link (I want to lengthen the downtubes for more ground clearance) and I was just going to go rebend a new sent of "legs" but I might have a go and trying your link down tubes.

3legs
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Old 03-21-2010, 07:44 PM   #170
Ricardo Kuhn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creeper
Anyone remeber the Valentino Ribi designed "quadrilateral"?





C
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Old 03-21-2010, 08:06 PM   #171
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Funky Italian bicycle fork from the late 90'
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Old 03-22-2010, 10:44 PM   #172
tripodtiger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pops
Any photos of a r1150gs leading link set up.
Please.
Have a squiz at post #132. Richard-NL's gs.

Then there is Phyllis' R1150R, same just different.

Crap photos. Low light & I was trying to NOT use flash. But I had to in the end.









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Old 03-23-2010, 04:26 AM   #173
pops
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Thank you SCray.
I am slowly getting some idea of what i want to build .
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Old 04-26-2010, 09:15 PM   #174
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Wasn't sure what this front end was from. Inmate let me know it was a 60's modified BMW earls.



The bike was toast. Bent rear frame from a tangle with a car. Salvaged engine and front end.







Jump ahead 8 months......




Feb. 2010. Sidecar attached. Finally swapped out the pogo stick Showa front shocks with some Progressives off my /5. Have ran a few miles and I think they'll be fine. Set them on the lowest setting. Currently salvaging the front brakes. Uses 1980 Suzuki Tokico calipers. Also in the process of setting up the hydraulic front damper. The /5 friction damper in place doesn't cut it.

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Old 04-27-2010, 12:14 PM   #175
RedMenace
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwhacker
Wasn't sure what this front end was from. Inmate let me know it was a 60's modified BMW earls.

Salvaged engine and front end.
If memory serves, there should be a curved cross member on the backside of those forks, above the spindle. I would be leary of them if the cross bracing has been removed. Loads will be increased over the original design and removing the brace would seem to weaken it.
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Old 04-27-2010, 01:58 PM   #176
outfit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedMenace
If memeory serves, there should be a curved cross member on the backside of those forks, above the spindle. I would be leary of them if the cross bracing has been removed. Loads will be increased over the original design and removing the brace would seem to weaken it.
Well spotted there.

One of the modification's needed to fit the BMW Earle's Fork is that you have to cut out the curved cross member as it will hit the timming cover. You should replace the cross member with a straight piece, otherwise the fork is not braced properly and will definatly be flexing alot. You should address as soon as posible.

You will just be able to see the cross member below, above the swing pivot.
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Old 04-27-2010, 05:51 PM   #177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedMenace
If memory serves, there should be a curved cross member on the backside of those forks, above the spindle. I would be leary of them if the cross bracing has been removed. Loads will be increased over the original design and removing the brace would seem to weaken it.
Could the fork be braced at the rear position mount behind the swing arm tube? Or would it be required to weld in a new brace higher up the fork assembly, closer to where the original brace lived? (Whoever removed the brace obliterated all signs of the old welds...perfectly clean there.)



I guess it never crossed my mind as these forks were used on the donor bike for 40+ thousand miles over a number of years. Not to say that it is correct...just to say that it has been used in its' present form....
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Old 04-27-2010, 06:28 PM   #178
RedMenace
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwhacker
Could the fork be braced at the rear position mount behind the swing arm tube? Or would it be required to weld in a new brace higher up the fork assembly, closer to where the original brace lived? (Whoever removed the brace obliterated all signs of the old welds...perfectly clean there.)



I guess it never crossed my mind as these forks were used on the donor bike for 40+ thousand miles over a number of years. Not to say that it is correct...just to say that it has been used in its' present form....

I'd put it back near where the original was. Use the spindle and the axle with a spacer to help keep the forks from warping when you weld them.

Those forks were designed for a lighter bike with maybe 30hp. They have been altered and used on a heavier bike which was destroyed in an accident. They might be fine like they are, but they are certainly being used outside of their engineered parameters. It would be a drag if they came apart on you.

Speaking of design, do they actually modify your trail to where you want it to be? Just adding links doesn't necessarily improve your handling. Not trying to pick on you. I think it's great if you have found an inexpensive solution for your bike. Just wondering how you arrived there....
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Old 04-27-2010, 07:52 PM   #179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedMenace
I'd put it back near where the original was. Use the spindle and the axle with a spacer to help keep the forks from warping when you weld them.

Those forks were designed for a lighter bike with maybe 30hp. They have been altered and used on a heavier bike which was destroyed in an accident. They might be fine like they are, but they are certainly being used outside of their engineered parameters. It would be a drag if they came apart on you.

Speaking of design, do they actually modify your trail to where you want it to be? Just adding links doesn't necessarily improve your handling. Not trying to pick on you. I think it's great if you have found an inexpensive solution for your bike. Just wondering how you arrived there....
I want the input.... I don't take constructive conversation as "picking".... ..I greatly value input from hack veterans as yourself . My minimal sidecar experience has been hands on...on my own, with no help, other than through publications and forums such as this. (scary thought , isn't it)

I've been running my hack with a R75/5 (900cc) with conventional forks for the past 2 years (16k very loaded miles )...this is my first experience with any leading link suspensions.
I ran the bike a few miles between MT. snowstorms in Feb. I was very pleased with the handling. Steering was effortless compared to the /5. Ran up to 75 mph was much better than the /5 tug. I had a scare with a low speed (10-15 mph) wobble when I ran over a H2o valve in the road...am adding a hydraulic damper in addition to the friction damper I installed.
The donor bike was side swiped, hitting the sidecar. Forks appear true and no damage is apparent. I've disassembled the forks, cleaned, lubed, rubbed and fondeled them. short of x-raying them...I think they are OK.

I don't have a truck load of cash in the garage....in fact I have no garage...or even a house for that matter.....so have tried to work with the resources I have available....I've tried to be safe and follow leads from fellow Hackers....
Not in the cards for me to shell out tens of thousands for a rig like some do....

For the additional cross brace; what sort of tubing should I use?
Thanks,
I'm all ears....
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Old 04-27-2010, 08:07 PM   #180
RedMenace
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If the handling is improved and you like it, and you don't have all sorts of shimmy, I'd guess it is a good mod for your set up.

Since you know the forks have seen some stress and they are old parts to begin with, keep a close eye on them for signs of failure. Rust lines or cracked paint are often signs of an underlying break.

Replacing the missing brace seems like a good idea, providing your welder know how to do that without weakening the metal or warping the forks.

You might be able to run a bolt and spacer through the unused spindle hole to improvise a brace until you can make a better, more permanent repair.
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