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Old 04-27-2010, 08:11 PM   #181
bmwhacker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedMenace
If the handling is improved and you like it, and you don't have all sorts of shimmy, I'd guess it is a good mod for your set up.

Since you know the forks have seen some stress and they are old parts to begin with, keep a close eye on them for signs of failure. Rust lines or cracked paint are often signs of an underlying break.

Replacing the missing brace seems like a good idea, providing your welder know how to do that without weakening the metal or warping the forks.

You might be able to run a bolt and spacer through the unused spindle hole to improvise a brace until you can make a better, more permanent repair.
I have 2 certified welders working with me...also have a wire feed and a conventional welder on my worksite...I am a "birdshit" welder so I'll likely let one of my co-workers take a look at it.....
Any special type of tubing I should use? .....wall thickness?
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Old 04-27-2010, 08:20 PM   #182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwhacker
I have 2 certified welders working with me...also have a wire feed and a conventional welder on my worksite...I am a "birdshit" welder so I'll likely let one of my co-workers take a look at it.....
Any special type of tubing I should use? .....wall thickness?
I think I have to defer to Claude or one of the other more experienced builders here. I tend to make it up as I go along, and this might merit a more careful approach...
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Old 04-27-2010, 08:22 PM   #183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedMenace
I think I have to defer to Claude or one of the other more experienced builders here. I tend to make it up as I go along, and this might merit a more careful approach...
Not to worry, I'll just hack up an old sign post and weld'er in.....
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Old 04-30-2010, 10:15 AM   #184
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwhacker
Not to worry, I'll just hack up an old sign post and weld'er in.....
As long as that old sign post is pretty beefy it should work for ya.
The idea is to tie the down tubes together for stability to take the reponsibility off the pivot points. At least 1" diameter tubing with say a .120 wall thickness would be good....larger tubing or maybe two tubes above one another or a single tube with a couple of gussets would be better yet. It ain't just the tubing it is how much actual weld area you can get at the intersections. More weld area means a beter connection. Nothing is ever any stronger than it's weakest point.
Best to save the old sign post for a rack or somehting...or maybe even a sign
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Old 05-01-2010, 06:52 AM   #185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by claude
As long as that old sign post is pretty beefy it should work for ya.
The idea is to tie the down tubes together for stability to take the reponsibility off the pivot points. At least 1" diameter tubing with say a .120 wall thickness would be good....larger tubing or maybe two tubes above one another or a single tube with a couple of gussets would be better yet. It ain't just the tubing it is how much actual weld area you can get at the intersections. More weld area means a beter connection. Nothing is ever any stronger than it's weakest point.
Best to save the old sign post for a rack or somehting...or maybe even a sign
Thanks Claude....Snooping around on other sites I've seen numerous other modified BMW Earls missing the center braces. Must be a common activity to remove them for clearance issues and not reinstall them. I'll definately rebrace mine.
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Old 05-01-2010, 08:14 AM   #186
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwhacker
Thanks Claude....Snooping around on other sites I've seen numerous other modified BMW Earls missing the center braces. Must be a common activity to remove them for clearance issues and not reinstall them. I'll definately rebrace mine.

It was very common to remove them. They could interfere with the timing cover when you fit a larger, newer airhead into a /2 frame. Sometimes you could get away with flattening or grinding the back side of the brace. I had conversion project that actually cleared the timing cover with no modification. There seems to have been some variation in production. I have never heard of one failing, but
simply removing the cross member and then stuffing in a heavier motor that made twice the horsepower seems like a reckless modification....
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Old 10-13-2010, 07:33 PM   #187
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Well there hasnt been much on here lately, so . . . Bump

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Old 10-26-2010, 03:41 AM   #188
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Indeed, who in their right mind would fit bent forks to a bike!

Seriously though, something i havn't seen is Girder forks, wouldn't they do the same job? Something a bit like this (without the chrome and shit) http://cgi.ebay.com.au/GIRDER-SPRING...item483bb871c3
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Old 10-26-2010, 06:05 AM   #189
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A few photos of our new L Link front end on our 1150 gsa .
Still working out the best settings .







Cheers Ian.
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Old 03-26-2011, 08:32 PM   #190
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Can't remember if I have put this up in this thread before. Bob Martin Leading Link that was fitted to my Virago 1100.



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Old 03-27-2011, 10:04 AM   #191
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Here is one we are just finishing up for a VStrom.
Hope to be doing one on a GS1100 soon.


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Old 03-27-2011, 02:04 PM   #192
Grotmeyer
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Beauty Claude!! Someday I'll have a rig worthy of one of these.... Someday....
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Old 03-27-2011, 07:32 PM   #193
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Hey I would LOVE to have that fork Claude !!,My VEE is blue even..If I find an extra $3,000 laying around I will hit you up for one !!.
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Old 04-20-2011, 01:21 AM   #194
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These are mine, in the metal:



and after powder coating:

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Old 04-20-2011, 12:14 PM   #195
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leading link

Here is the leading link front end I made for my xs650 outfit. It is 1.375" DOM tube .188 wall thick. Brass bushings with grease fittings and 16 3/4" sandrail shocks. I also cut off the axle plates from a stock swingarm so I can adjust trail
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