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Old 03-17-2011, 12:56 AM   #1
Glenn C OP
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Another XT1200Z Super Tenere Rostra Cruise Control Install

Firstly, many thanks to SuperCruise, whose success and subsequent write up gave me the confidence to pursue this install myself. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=622697


I have a trip to the Flinders Ranges coming up later this year and I had been looking for a long-trip solution to the right wrist blues. I was close to fitting a throttle lock but wasn’t really too keen on the concept. I felt an “active” cruise control would be a much better solution than a “passive” one like a throttle lock.

And then SuperCruise posted his project. AND he was fitting it to an XT1200. AND I had just bought an XT1200! So once SuperCruise got his working, I placed my order for the same model Rostra kit. http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/pr...roducts_id=369

I basically followed SuperCruise’s procedure but have done a few things differently. These are only fairly superficial differences where I thought I could improve (no criticism intended, just my way of getting the same outcome).

I guess the biggest difference is that I really wanted to mount the servo via some sort of bracket off the frame, so that it wasn’t mechanically coupled to the engine (and associated heat and vibration). I also found a way of not drilling holes in my precious S10 frame. I utilised existing holes and made up some brackets. See images below

Existing holes in frame bracing. Here you can see the 2 holes already in the bracing. There is a brace like this on each side of the frame.


and brackets I made up.

The finished servo bracket:


The finished cable bracket


And them fitted to the frame - servo on the right side and cable on the left side





As a result, I have also routed the servo cable a different way. I have my servo cable pointing to the rear of the bike and looping around and back to the throttle assembly. Due to the length of the cable (it’s actually too long for what we need), it currently routes through the under-seat cavity. I had considered shortening the cable but didn’t want to do this until AFTER I had installed it and was happy everything was going to work OK. At some point I will shorten this, it currently offends my sense of neatness!





My brackets allow the use of the Rostra brakets provided in the kit. I welded the Rostra brackets to my brackets and then bolted the whole assemblies in place using 6mm bolts (locktite applied the prevent vibration undoing them).

One other difference is that I wanted a more “elegant” way to attach the servo cable to the throttle actuator. So I bit the bullet and drilled 2mm holes through the quadrant. I then used a 2mm spliit pin and the Rostra adapter loop cable (included in the kit).





I was really happy with the result. The big concern here is when the CC is off and you open the throttle, if the servo cable snags/jams on anything, you’re in trouble. This could potentially jam the throttle open. I am confident my setup can’t do this. I did a lot of checking of this!



I also didn’t like the cables that come with the control panel. So I opened up the panel and replaced the cables with a six conductor cable I scrounged up. I checked the whole control panel assembly for waterproofness and figured the only weak point is the cable exit at the rear. So I sealed this with some neutral cure silicone.

CAUTION: when using any sealant around wires and electronics, DO NOT use noormal silcone rubber. This releases acetic acid as it cures and this can be very destructive to copper wires and circuit boards etc. Make sure you use “neutral cure” silcone. This is typically used for roofing and guttering and will say “neutral cure” on it.

I mounted the control panel on a bracket I made up. It attaches via the left mirror anchor.




Does it work?
It sure does! I’m really happy with the peformance. I think it will make a huge difference to the fatigue level after a long trip. Especially long highway trips.

Thanks again to SuperCruise for his work.
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Glenn C screwed with this post 05-29-2012 at 03:25 AM Reason: Restoring the photo links
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Old 03-17-2011, 05:29 AM   #2
simmons1
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Old 03-17-2011, 06:04 AM   #3
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I will save this, thanks.
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Old 03-17-2011, 04:03 PM   #4
SuperCruise
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Well done Glenn! Yours is definitely a more elegant installation from a hardware mounting perspective.

Mines been working flawlessly for over 1500 kms now and will get a thorough workout in two weeks time when my S10 and I set out on a two-month lap of Australia.
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Old 11-23-2014, 05:49 PM   #5
Wistrick
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can u please explain how you drilled the hole where the cable attaches. I can't seem to get a drill or a dremel in there...

thanks

Dan
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Old 11-25-2014, 12:18 PM   #6
jwdub
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If you haven't already done so, it might be better to send Glenn a PM since this thread was started about 3 years ago.
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Old 11-25-2014, 11:33 PM   #7
Glenn C OP
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Hi Guys,

I used a flexible cable drill attachment to a Dremel type drill. Was a real PITA and I think I have seen others take off the quadrant (or whatever the thing is where the cables attach is called). Been a while and I can't remember if this is a difficult task or not. From memory, I read it wasn't too difficult to remove, drill and replace.

One of the problems I had doing it in-situ was the swarf/drill cuttings and preventing them getting where they shouldn't be. That and the easier drilling is why I'd think seriously about removing the quadrant.

BTW, I'd never have another long hauler bike like the XT1200 without CC again. It makes long slab work SO much easier and I find it better than the throttle locks as it maintains your speed (apart from steep downhills of course). I get a bit of arthritis in my right wrist from a break many years ago and without CC, I'd not be able to do most of the big outback trips I do.


Cheers
Glenn
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