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Old 06-24-2012, 03:37 AM   #5311
fikse
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Location: Norway, between lakes and fjords
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tntmo View Post
Just ordered $350 worth of gaskets, seals, exhaust valves, piston rings, cam chains, etc. I got lucky and found a NX250 engine lower end that had a salvagable crankshaft on Ebay.

Hopefully I can get this NX back up and running. Anyone need any spares? I have a complete clutch, transmission, engine cases, etc.

Will try to document with pics if anyone is interested.
Pictures would be lovely. As always

Best of luck. I know the feeling You'll get when You're finished with the lot. Its a goooood feeling
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Old 06-24-2012, 07:23 AM   #5312
scrambler66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fikse View Post
What's my option, really? A XL250R it says, but this R-version is not a very-much sold version here in Europe (I belive?). Does it have to be the "R"-version? I find some old XL250R wheels that is 18", so obviously I cannot use wheel from all yearmodels?. Also my "challenge" is that most Xl-wheels are situated in US. Main concern here is shipping: Approx $100 (...) most ebayers in US wants for shipping a wheel to me. Im not going bankrupt from this, but... you know...

Are there any other options? Any other models wheel that fit?

you can also take the rear wheel of a XL350R, but those are also rather rare. Another option would be one from an US-NX650 (see below) or from a XL600R. With the latter ones you will have to swap the break panel and the sprocket flange – no big deal, there are often complete sets available at ebay.



Those sets fit plug and play – there is one thing you have to keep an eye on: make sure that the clearance between the collar and the swing arm is not too wide – if it’s more than 2mm, just add a 2mm washer. Otherwise it may result in bad brake performance or even the brake could be jammed when the nut of the wheel axle is tightened. The same happens if the washer (# 3) on the NX250 break panel gets lost



Apparently a set (wheel, flange, break panel) of the old XL500R will also fit - but this I haven’t tried out.

scrambler66 screwed with this post 11-19-2013 at 09:16 PM
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Old 06-24-2012, 08:52 AM   #5313
fikse
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scrambler66 View Post
you can also take the rear wheel of a XL350R, but those are also rather rare. Another option would be one from an US-NX650 (see below) or from a XL600R. With the latter ones you will have to swap the break panel and the sprocket flange – no big deal, there are often complete sets available at ebay.


Those sets fit plug and play – there is one thing you have to keep an eye on: make sure that the clearance between the collar and the swing arm is not too wide – if it’s more than 2mm, just add a 2mm washer. Otherwise it may result in bad brake performance or even the brake could be jammed when the nut of the wheel axle is tightened. The same happens if the washer (# 3) on the NX250 break panel gets lost


Apparently a set (wheel, flange, break panel) of the old XL500R will also fit - but this I haven’t tried out.
Thanks alot (again) scrambler66
Hmm, quite sure I don't have this #3 in my setup today Still, the complete wheel fit perfect, and no issue regarding brake.
Anyway, with all these choices I should be able to get something usable within next few months :-) Looking forward to reuse the Heidenau-tyres. They worked well last winter on my former Duke, nice fit for the mainly wet/dirty/icy/slushy roads we've got here. Probably the one thing with the Duke I liked best

EDIT: It helps to have a look at the bike, sometimes...: So I've got the #3, just didn't notice it :-)
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fikse screwed with this post 06-24-2012 at 11:21 PM Reason: Added photo
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Old 06-24-2012, 09:07 AM   #5314
fikse
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What about this one?
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Old 06-24-2012, 10:27 AM   #5315
Honda Scoot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fikse View Post
The 1986 250 is the year I used.

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Old 06-24-2012, 05:59 PM   #5316
polarized
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SAKONE View Post
Got a problem with my speedometer not working. Last owner said it was just a cable, so he had a new cable ordered but never installed. Took apart the speedometer gear housing on the hub to find out the tab is broken on the inside and the screw that holds the cable into the housing is stripped beyond the point of me extracting it without making it worst.

Does someone have a spare speedometer gear assembly for sale? Been looking on Ebay but the only one I saw was for a nx650. Since I have had the bike the speedometer never worked, never really cared but would like to know the speed once in awhile.

Was planning to get a trail tech vapor instead but wanted to see if anyone installed one on a nx250? Any problems with settings for RPM/MPH? Only seen one trail tech vapor on a nx250 complete with housing/dash and it fits perfectly where the stock cluster goes. Still prefer a analog display for a RPM tach though.



Which kit?

I too am wondering about the vapor dash. The stock one on my nx250 has a broken tab and some of the lights are burnt out, so perhaps it is time for a new one.

Is it possible to wire up a vapor to the nx?

polarized screwed with this post 06-24-2012 at 06:02 PM Reason: spelling
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Old 06-24-2012, 06:32 PM   #5317
RollingJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Honda Scoot View Post
The 1986 250 is the year I used. You will need the rear brake from the same seller (pinewood Motor Sports LLC).
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-1986...item564aad41f0
I was able to use my existing brake internals when I did the swap.
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Old 06-24-2012, 06:53 PM   #5318
Honda Scoot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RollingJ View Post
I was able to use my existing brake internals when I did the swap.
You are correct! Sorry if I mislead anyone.

The wheel I purchased came complete with good brake shoes that had been previously ran in the hub so they were used.
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Old 06-24-2012, 11:14 PM   #5319
fikse
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OK. Thanks alot for answers. So, I do not need the brake hub then. Goody. The wheel aint a beauty, but hopefully it's good enough. Whohoo, So I get a 17" on my bike, cool
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Old 06-25-2012, 12:31 AM   #5320
muzcuk
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Originally Posted by RollingJ View Post
I know my oil level is getting a little low when it get's harder to shift from 1-2. Check it or change it.

The other possibility is a bent shift lever fork in the transmission. If you have to force it into second you may have done damage to the tranny.

Well, you were right about the oil. When I drained the engine, half a liter of greasy gunk came out instead of 1,5 liters that I have put in, which is weird because I switched to this fancy full synthetic oil (Ipone katana) at the last oil change. Shit costs a lot and I assumed it would last longer, rather than half as long, which seems to be the case.

And I never had that kind of decrease in my oil before, ever. I don't know if oil is to blame or something else.

Also, the situation did not get any better after the fresh oil. I still have to kick it into 2, but all other gears are fine.

When I am trying to shift to 2 from neutral, I can sometimes hear this periodic noise like a gear bumping into something. I know nothing about the transmission. I was hoping I would not have to split the crankcase.

So what now? Any suggestions/ideas?

What do you think might have happened and how?
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Old 06-25-2012, 12:54 AM   #5321
fikse
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Originally Posted by muzcuk View Post
Well, you were right about the oil. When I drained the engine, half a liter of greasy gunk came out instead of 1,5 liters that I have put in, which is weird because I switched to this fancy full synthetic oil (Ipone katana) at the last oil change. Shit costs a lot and I assumed it would last longer, rather than half as long, which seems to be the case.

And I never had that kind of decrease in my oil before, ever. I don't know if oil is to blame or something else.

Also, the situation did not get any better after the fresh oil. I still have to kick it into 2, but all other gears are fine.

When I am trying to shift to 2 from neutral, I can sometimes hear this periodic noise like a gear bumping into something. I know nothing about the transmission. I was hoping I would not have to split the crankcase.

So what now? Any suggestions/ideas?

What do you think might have happened and how?
Ouch! No engine likes this, for sure! What's the details about the last oilchange? How long ride, did you replace filter, etc. Do you have the drained oil still? Do you have the receipt for the Ipone katana oil? You might want to have an oil analysis of this, and anyway get in touch with the shop / factory for the oil, and make an complaint. An oil analysis is rather cheap, and can give you an very good idea for what is wrong, also if its the oil who is the cause. At www.bobistheoilguy.com you can get some good help for this. I mean; if its something wrong with the oil, you have a possibility to get the engine fixed by oil-producers warranty.

Im not an mecanic, but from my aspect it looks you have a rebuild job to do. Sorry to say. If you have to force it into one gear but no other, IMHO this is related to the gear change mecanism, eventually also some of the gears. Well, please, do not take my word for it, its just my 2 cents, etc

Best of luck
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Old 06-25-2012, 02:04 AM   #5322
fikse
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Vapor!

Stumbled upon this posts at an coincidence.
Tells me that we should have a categorized forum for the Nixie. Too much quality info that gets lost inside a huge tread
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Old 06-25-2012, 02:27 AM   #5323
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Well, the last time when I changed my oil was when I changed my cam chain and tensioner. I broke the plastic chain guide by mistake and ended up having to take the cylinder head off to replace it. But it was a clean job, and everything looked well. I also replaced the oil filter, of course.

The oil that came out of the bike was just thick, there was no metal etc. as far as I could see. The filter was also fairly clean. It has been 2 months or so since I put the oil in the engine. I commute ~20 km everyday, but sometimes I ride through the urban jungle (Istanbul), which I believe would put some of what people call 'off road' to shame. I have no odometer, so I don't know how many km I have done on last oil. I know it cant be much more than 1000.

My thermostat is broken so I short the wires to get the fan going when I feel that it is too hot, and my radiator is not in very good shape, so it may have overheated a few times, but that should be no excuse for burning a whole liter of "finest grade off-road motor oil".

I am a material scientist myself but oil analysis, and getting the engine fixed on oil warranty sounds like something out of an utopia. Living in Turkey, I don't believe in warranty. Also, I am pretty sure it is a combination of things, not just the oil.

But how the **** did I end up messing up the transmission, and in what way, I guess I'll have to see that with my own eyes to understand. Still, predictions are welcome.

I have no prior experience on rebuilds, but I know I learned a lot working on this bike. It has been fun, and I love the little guy. But, I don't know if its worth reviving a transmission. Anything that will disable the bike for more than a weekend is a no-no for me.


I added a stupid video I shoot with the cylinder head off. You can see that the cylinder looks fine, no scorching etc.

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Old 06-25-2012, 02:35 AM   #5324
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I've never understood why so many folks want to transform this little street/rough pavement little bike that was designed as a ride for the Japanese student market into a dirt bike.
The real power of this little ride is flexibility, comfortable suspension, reliability and ease of use.
It was never intended to be used on dirt tracks or mountain roads. It doesn't have a strong frame, there's too much plastic covering this whole thing and most importantly, it doesn't have a heavy duty suspension to support this type of driving.
I am not saying that it's not fun in trying to do this, I just don't understand it.
Just sayin
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Old 06-25-2012, 02:37 AM   #5325
fikse
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I'll guess the guarantee-thing is long gone then
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