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Old 06-06-2011, 05:33 PM   #1606
Dluke
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neduro View Post
You should definitely experiment for yourself- other people's settings will be meaningless. Also, note that your rear ride height (sag) will have a similar effect, so there are many ingredients in how the bike handles.
Thanks. Is there is spec for front fork sag? I know from my road-racing experience, it a huge deal. The manual gives no spec.
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Old 06-06-2011, 05:37 PM   #1607
Michhub
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Originally Posted by FlyingDutchman View Post
What do you do when you dent your head pipe?
It hasn't affected performance, at least with my seat of pants observation.
I've never done it but I saw this post on Thumpertalk....no need to seal the ends....

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=523620

I would try it...........
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Old 06-06-2011, 06:35 PM   #1608
nrspence
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Originally Posted by Michhub View Post
I've never done it but I saw this post on Thumpertalk....no need to seal the ends....

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=523620

I would try it...........
Wow thats pretty neat. I'll definatly try that when i dent my pipe.
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Old 06-07-2011, 06:38 AM   #1609
LRPct
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Originally Posted by Deseret Rider View Post
Dutch---To clarify-- my problem isn't that the bike won't start---it will start easily in neutral. The problem is that when the bike is in gear I can't pull in the clutch and start it because the clutch hasn't fully disengaged. It's as if the clutch actuating rod needs to be a little bit longer. Or perhaps the 'travel' of the rod needs to be a little bit longer. I do believe I am getting full available travel at the master cylinder because the adjustment there is max'ed---I have no 'slack' in the lever and a full ark available . The fluid level in the master cylinder is full and as far as I know there is no air in the line? So I am puzzled why the clutch doesn't fully disengage? I am wondering if the clutch plates are sticking? I'm using 20W/50 weight motor oil in the transmission and the same in the engine crankcase. I'm inviting comment and suggestion of how to solve my problem ? The clutch should fully disengage and allow the E-start when the bike is in gear---NO?
It called clutch drag and is normal. Its probally WORSE when the bike/oil is cold.. no? Some bikes are worse than others, Ive had some bikes that I never attempted to start in gear, clutch in, esp. when cold.
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Old 06-07-2011, 07:42 AM   #1610
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Originally Posted by Dluke View Post
Thanks. Is there is spec for front fork sag? I know from my road-racing experience, it a huge deal. The manual gives no spec.
There's not a spec, but typically ~1/4-1/3rd of travel should be used in rider sag, and something like 25-35mm of static sag. If the numbers are too close together, the spring is too stiff, if they are too far apart, the spring is too soft.

After a bunch of chasing my tail, I've come to the conclusion that not much anyone tells you about suspension is very useful, and the best way to arrive at a setting is to see for yourself what works and what doesn't. It's amazing what a few mms of difference in sag do, and it can't be described, it has to be experienced.

< shameless plug > I wrote an ebook about this stuff that describes this in detail... < end shameless plug >

My approach is to repeat a series of tests that allow you to zero in on what you like the bike to do and how you want it to feel, starting with ride height/ chassis attitude, and then adding in damping adjustments.
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Old 06-07-2011, 08:17 AM   #1611
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neduro View Post
There's not a spec, but typically ~1/4-1/3rd of travel should be used in rider sag, and something like 25-35mm of static sag. If the numbers are too close together, the spring is too stiff, if they are too far apart, the spring is too soft.

After a bunch of chasing my tail, I've come to the conclusion that not much anyone tells you about suspension is very useful, and the best way to arrive at a setting is to see for yourself what works and what doesn't. It's amazing what a few mms of difference in sag do, and it can't be described, it has to be experienced.

< shameless plug > I wrote an ebook about this stuff that describes this in detail... < end shameless plug >

My approach is to repeat a series of tests that allow you to zero in on what you like the bike to do and how you want it to feel, starting with ride height/ chassis attitude, and then adding in damping adjustments.
Ned, thanks. I'll buy your guide. I am always looking to learn more. One thing that I have found to be a consistent place to start suspension set up in the static sag. At least the bike is starting out with the right geometry under it's own weight.
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Old 06-07-2011, 08:07 PM   #1612
bigborefan
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I finally got a chance to ride the 530 XC-W some. I did 140 miles this weekend at the Show Me 200 AMA Dual Sport in MO. This ride had it all, a little pavement, but not much, gravel roads, rocks, dirt roads, rocks, tree roots, rocks, logs, creek crossings, rocks, two track, single-track and something I call half/track, which is really SUPER TIGHT sucky single track. I am no enduro guy, that's for sure. My background is MX and Hare Scambles/GNCC type riding, which is what I enjoy.

The rocks didn't really bother me. I have ridden CO a few times. Once you ride there, I think you are good to go in the rocks. The first gear single track jungle trail was no fun though. I don't like more than a mile or two of that stuff at a time.

The bike worked great. Since I got "the button" fixed I have not kicked it once. The jetting seems good, no popping, no bogging, the bike starts easy. If anything I think I am a little rich. I am running Engine Ice, and have the KTM fan. The bike never steamed and plenty of other KTMs were spewing steam. It was 95 and we were in first a lot of the time with no air moving.

I am still learning to ride the four stroke. I was on a KX500 for years and then a KTM 300XC for a while. The 4Ts seems to take a while to spool up, especially in the 1/2 track stuff. I love it in the 3rd to 6th gear stuff. The 300 would be the ticket in the 1st/2nd gear trail though.

I did stall a few times, but I think it was all pilot error. If I rode MO all the time I might consider the Rekluse EXP. I have been hearing good things about them. They supposedly feel just like stock, but make it very difficult to stall the motor. They even have a 30 day money back guarantee. I have ridden some previous auto clutches and did not care for them.

I don't know if I have any oil usage/loss issues. I will measure the oil when I change it. The oil window still shows full. I use the Ned method and add 600cc's and don't worry about the sight window.

I have no clue as to what I am getting MPG wise. I just got gas whenever I could. 50 miles was the longest stint between fuel stops.

My mods are the following:

Scotts Damper / BRP Submount - 23mm's of rise with CleanSpeed cable guide
I run my bars all the way forward
Enduro Engineering (EE) Handguards
EE Tall Firm Seat
EE Rear Rotor Shark Fin
EE Rear Brake Light Switch
ELine Carbon Header Guard
Rejetted carb and carb vent blocked off - SMOG removal in other words
BRP Carb Vent Filter Kit
Stock XC-W gearing, which is 13/50. At times it is too low and at times it is too tall, it all depends on the trail. At my normal riding area I would prefer a 49, but in the MO 1/2 track I would of liked a 51 or 52.
EE Stiffer Springs front and rear

I plan on adding the following

KTM 3.5 Gallon Tank
KTM Clutch Slave Protector
TM Design Chain Guide/Swingarm Buffer kit
Bulletproof Swingarm Protector
KTM Tripmaster Switch
SAR Start/Kill Switch

I would like a Renazco seat. I have one on my 690. I like the EE tall, but I will admit a Renazco would of been great on day two. I never got monkey butt but the butt muscles were sore.
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Old 06-07-2011, 08:20 PM   #1613
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I want to do the 3.5 gallon tank, and 13/52 sproket on my 09 EXC.
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Old 06-07-2011, 08:36 PM   #1614
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BRP Damper Setup

This fit very nice on the new frame. I had one on the 06 300 and this one fits much better. Very pleased. I guess the new 2010 frame is the reason. That damper was bought in 1994. Still going and works like new. I have had it rebuilt twice.
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Old 06-07-2011, 08:39 PM   #1615
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A naked shot

Chain side naked bike.
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Old 06-07-2011, 08:41 PM   #1616
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Throttle side naked bike

Throttle side.
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Old 06-07-2011, 08:44 PM   #1617
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Throttle side dressed

Ready to Race!

It's a nice looking bike. I am not real keen on all the black though. I need a new color scheme and graphics for my taste.
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Old 06-09-2011, 12:27 PM   #1618
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Monoshock spring ratings?

The parts book shows 5 spring options---in N/mm from 63 to 76.
I would like to soften my rear suspension which currently has the 72 N/mm spring. I've got the compression dampning out beyond the 'comfort' clicks and the suspension is still too stiff---like riding a jackhammer. I've read that each designation is related to riders weight? But I cannot find any chart showing the recommended spring for various rider weights. Does anyone have a link to that information? What are the rider weights recommended for using the 63, 66, and 69 n/mm springs? I appreciate this great forum and the members who share information so generously. thanks guys~
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Old 06-09-2011, 08:34 PM   #1619
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deseret Rider View Post
I've got the compression dampning out beyond the 'comfort' clicks and the suspension is still too stiff---like riding a jackhammer.

Several points:

1) Where is your rebound setting?

The rebound bleed (clicker) has a huge effect on the compression motion, like jetting, each circuit effects all the others. Rebound in the shock is akin to the main jet- the biggest circuit with the greatest impact on everything else.

2) The spring will affect, generally, where the wheel travels to. The damping affects how quickly it gets there. After a great deal of experimentation, I have not found that a softer spring typically results in a plusher ride (within reason), and often the opposite as the bike sits deeper in the stroke where the rate (due to geometry, not spring rate) has effectively risen.

3) What do you weigh and where is the preload set? If the geometry of the bike is far off, you'll get very different suspension feel.

4) What year bike? 2009 up are pretty lightly damped, so jackhammer shouldn't describe them unless something else is amiss.
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Old 06-10-2011, 09:44 AM   #1620
FlyingDutchman
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Turntech 5Amp = phenomenal !!

Did I tell everyone here that I installed a Turntech 5 Amp battery?

Well, after 3 rides, all mud hole infested singletrack and the fan whirring away, with the headlight on, often on high beam and the the bike starts immediately in neutral, and after a second, in gear.

I have not installed the stator yet...and I don't really see a point anymore.

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