KTM 530 EXCR- More better!

[malcolmzilla]

Originally Posted by FlyingDutchman

Did I tell everyone here that I installed a Turntech 5 Amp battery?

Well, after 3 rides, all mud hole infested singletrack and the fan whirring away, with the headlight on, often on high beam and the the bike starts immediately in neutral and after a second in gear.

I have not installed the stator yet...and I don't really see a point anymore.

Good to know, thanks. Both the Turntech and Shorai are on backorder, but I will get in line as I have done the PMXTEC bulb upgrade and now looks like I need the fan too.

[Country Doc]

Originally Posted by FlyingDutchman

Did I tell everyone here that I installed a Turntech 5 Amp battery?

Well, after 3 rides, all mud hole infested singletrack and the fan whirring away, with the headlight on, often on high beam and the the bike starts immediately in neutral, and after a second, in gear.

I have not installed the stator yet...and I don't really see a point anymore.

+1. Love my TT battery, zero issues so far. I do have the bigger stator though.

dc

[Hockeygod]

Originally Posted by FlyingDutchman

Did I tell everyone here that I installed a Turntech 5 Amp battery?

Well, after 3 rides, all mud hole infested singletrack and the fan whirring away, with the headlight on, often on high beam and the the bike starts immediately in neutral, and after a second, in gear.

I have not installed the stator yet...and I don't really see a point anymore.

FD,

Where did you get the battery (online site or from Turntech) and how much $ including shipping (for a fellow Canuck - I read your post about the UPS brokerage Fee on the Canada thread... that sucks), it you don't mind me asking? I have a 2007 640 that I would like to upgrade the battery. Would this 5 amp be good enough? Many thanks in advance.

Dean

[FlyingDutchman]

Originally Posted by Hockeygod

FD,

Where did you get the battery (online site or from Turntech) and how much $ including shipping (for a fellow Canuck - I read your post about the UPS brokerage Fee on the Canada thread... that sucks), it you don't mind me asking? I have a 2007 640 that I would like to upgrade the battery. Would this 5 amp be good enough? Many thanks in advance.

Dean

http://www.turntechbattery.com/TurnTech%20Battery/5.0_ah.html

I ordered from TurnTech...$14 shipping and found it on my front porch a few days later....Maybe a week.

No extra fees. Canada Post before the strike. I'll check when I get home and post if I am wrong.

I believe he makes 7.5 Amp Batteries custom. I might just try mine in my KLR...

Boston or Vancouver?

[Hockeygod]

Thanks Dutchman!

BOSTON!

I can't stand the Ca-Sucks!!

[Deseret Rider]

Originally Posted by neduro

Several points:

1) Where is your rebound setting?

The rebound bleed (clicker) has a huge effect on the compression motion, like jetting, each circuit effects all the others. Rebound in the shock is akin to the main jet- the biggest circuit with the greatest impact on everything else.

2) The spring will affect, generally, where the wheel travels to. The damping affects how quickly it gets there. After a great deal of experimentation, I have not found that a softer spring typically results in a plusher ride (within reason), and often the opposite as the bike sits deeper in the stroke where the rate (due to geometry, not spring rate) has effectively risen.

3) What do you weigh and where is the preload set? If the geometry of the bike is far off, you'll get very different suspension feel.

4) What year bike? 2009 up are pretty lightly damped, so jackhammer shouldn't describe them unless something else is amiss.

I didn't realize---and am still struggling to understand---the relationship between rebound setting and how it affects the compression. The bike is an '08 as you have probably guessed. The following clicker settings were in effect:
Shock
rebound---24 clicks out
compression --hi speed---18 clicks out
compression --low speed---2&1/2 turns out

Forks
Preload --- 4 turns in
compression damping ----24 clicks out
rebound damping ---- 26 clicks out

I weigh 220 lbs and the shock spring is a 72-250 preloaded to:
static sag ---1.3 inches
loaded sag---4.1 inches

My impression of the ride characteristics was that the front end wasn't so far off----pretty stiff, but not deflecting so bad that I would lose control----but the rear end was a jackhammer---felt like a solid hookup between the swing arm and the frame---I could not feel any compliance back there when riding over rough rocky ground--- Whenever the ground was smooth though the chassis geometry felt good---the bike would turn or go straight with control and stability.
The shock is brutal on even moderate rough ground----I'm at the extreme end of the adjustment on the 'rebound' settings----and open to suggestions whether 'tightening' the rebound is indicated. Or is it likely that it's going to take more than clicker setting to reach acceptable performance of the shock?
I've contacted Super Plush and when I have exhausted my own remedy I'll likely let him straighten my suspension out--
What the ell was KTM thinking when they put the bike out in this condition?

[neduro]

Originally Posted by Deseret Rider

I didn't realize---and am still struggling to understand---the relationship between rebound setting and how it affects the compression.

What the ell was KTM thinking when they put the bike out in this condition?

I'd start with an 8.0 spring for the shock. 7.2 is too light for 220 lbs for sure, and the harshness you feel may be bottoming out as much as anything.

Your clickers are quite far open, so it's flowing about as much as it can that way...

As for what KTM was thinking, that's been a question for years. A friend was on the factory enduro team, he says the joke used to be that when they got a new bike, they should just start by taking half the shims out of the stack and then ride it and see how it was.

My guess is that since WP is in Holland, and all they have is sand tracks where stiffer = better, they set everything up for that...

[bigborefan]

I rode with a guy last week who had his suspension done by Slavens. He was on an 08 400 EXC/XCW. He was raving about Slavens work. He was out $1800.00 bucks. I guess for that kind of money I would be raving also. I didn't get a chance to ride it, wish I had.

[FlyingDutchman]

If you have to ask, you can`t ....well... they`re gold.

[neduro]

Originally Posted by FlyingDutchman

If you have to ask, you can`t ....well... they`re gold.

Interesting, I have a set of recent TTX stuff, and it sits on the shelf. Better when I'm really charging and in whoops, otherwise, I prefer stock.

If you charge, the TTX does gobble stuff and shrug off bottoming pretty well, I'll give it that. It's trickier to ride in technical (rock trials sections, which we have a lot of) stuff, though, because it doesn't let the wheels move as well as stock.

That's the great thing about suspension- we all have opinions and we're all right.

[piercalif]

If you want to get your suspension done right the first time, and at a much more reasonable price... call Brett Leaf 951-533-6350 he is in Temacula/Murietta area. He is a very nice, and is well known.... ask around.
He was the suspension guy for the Kawasaki team at the last Dakar.

[piercalif]

What are the latest findings on the disappearing oil for a 2008 530 EXCR?

[bigborefan]

Suspension is like oil and tires, we could discuss/argue all day long and never agree. I am convinced it is an important area to setup and most people do not take the time, myself included.

Lots of guys have solid reputations. Slavens and SuperPlush. Stillwell Performance in CO. TrailTricks and MX-Tech. These guys are all supposed to know the WP stuff pretty well. IMO, if you have somebody local who is good, and can go to the track or trail with you, that is worth a lot, especially if your new to the sport and don't know a lot.

Other than that, start with the right springs for your weight and stock settings and go from there. Don't be afraid to experiment, but don't make huge changes all at once. Take notes as you go. Sometimes two clicks is a big difference. If you can't make it work, then get it revalved.

I would stay away form the big suspension shops, Race Tech, Factory Connection, PC, etc. The bikes I have ridden from them have all been to stiff IMO. They think everyone is a Pro MXer.

[Country Doc]

Originally Posted by FlyingDutchman

If you have to ask, you can`t ....well... they`re gold.

Dutch, you have F/R ohlins on your bike???

dc

[Dluke]

Originally Posted by neduro

There's not a spec, but typically ~1/4-1/3rd of travel should be used in rider sag, and something like 25-35mm of static sag. If the numbers are too close together, the spring is too stiff, if they are too far apart, the spring is too soft.

After a bunch of chasing my tail, I've come to the conclusion that not much anyone tells you about suspension is very useful, and the best way to arrive at a setting is to see for yourself what works and what doesn't. It's amazing what a few mms of difference in sag do, and it can't be described, it has to be experienced.

< shameless plug > I wrote an ebook about this stuff that describes this in detail... < end shameless plug >

My approach is to repeat a series of tests that allow you to zero in on what you like the bike to do and how you want it to feel, starting with ride height/ chassis attitude, and then adding in damping adjustments.

Ned, I purchased your suspension book and read it through a few times. I want to compliment you on how thorough you have been explaining the Theory and providing an implementation guide. Your testing process is intense and it makes me realize that the way I have been going about this is wrong. I have started a complete recording of all the variables so I can record and make notes about the changes. Thanks for your hard work.