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Old 06-22-2011, 05:21 AM   #1696
Bungholio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neduro View Post
I'm a big fan of the dirt tricks ironman sprockets.

They aren't cheap to buy, but they last incredibly well. I've got one that has been on all the 530's I've owned, plus serving some time on my 300- probably 600 hours, still looks like new.

I find that the chain lasts much longer, because it's not being pulled across irregular sprocket tooth spacing, so the load stays even. I routinely get 100+ hours out of chains, which was unheard of before using these sprockets. FWIW, I do next to nothing for chain maintenance, an occasional blast with lube if its lucky, but nothing usually.

I put on a couple of front sprockets per chain, have given up on telling the difference between brands, so I've been using primary drive or whatever my dealer had on the shelf cheap. They all seem to begin hooking at 40-50 hours.

I'm a bit confused, do the dirt tricks hook at 40-50 hours too?
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Old 06-22-2011, 06:34 AM   #1697
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Originally Posted by Bungholio View Post
I'm a bit confused, do the dirt tricks hook at 40-50 hours too?
I've never tried one of their fronts, so maybe not. I've found little difference between OEM KTM, Renthal, and the various generic options.

The rear sprocket looks like new at 600+ hours.
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Old 06-22-2011, 07:06 AM   #1698
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Originally Posted by neduro View Post
I've never tried one of their fronts, so maybe not. I've found little difference between OEM KTM, Renthal, and the various generic options.

The rear sprocket looks like new at 600+ hours.
I have lots of dirt-tricks sprockets, 13t and 14t, as well as a 47t rear on my SM wheels and a 50t on my dirt wheels.

The dirttricks fronts start hooking at around 30-40 hours as well. I think they might be slightly better than the OEM sprocket (which I destroyed in 40 hours), but not dramatically. Maybe 25% better? The conditions we ride in are very, very hard on chains/sprockets/bearings/etc however. I do see and feel a little bit of wear on my Ironman rear, now at 40 odd hours, but it's not really an issue. The front at 40 hours probably has another 15-20 in it before it needs swapping out.

I hope to go two fronts per chain like Ned. The rear I am not sure how long it will last. It looks like it will last at least 80-100 hours (which is twice as long as my KTM branded steel/aluminum dual compound rear).

dc
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Old 06-22-2011, 07:48 AM   #1699
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Eh? kickstand mod and 14/50 sprocket vs chain length

A comment on kickstands----and a question about chain length for 14/50 ?

First----I inserted a self tapping screw into the stand where it contacts the 'stop'. The head on the screw is about the width of a nickel. This 'spacer' keeps the kickstand a little bit more vertical which allows me to get off the bike using the footrest like a stirrup--I.E. like getting off a horse. I could not do this with the 'stock' setup because the stand pivots too far forward the bike is leaning too much to the left and tends to fall over the stand when I weight the left side footrest. I left the stock screw and spring in place and I do have to pay attention to make sure to weight the stand to keep it from retracting which would allow the bike to fall left. For me, and my very short inseam this is the only way I can get off the bike short of installing a battery powered crane boom to lift me clean. ha ha

On the 14/50 sprocket combo? From what has been said it seems that only one additional link is required to run that combo?----My question: I note that what I call the 'pusher block' for want of the correct name of the part (this is the block that the axel slides through and which the adjustment bolt positions----that block has two 'wings' each of a different length. I am running a 14/48 combo on my bike and using the longer of the two 'wings' in the adjustment. Would it not be possible to reverse the blocks so that the shorter wing contacts the adjustment screw? This would allow the tire to sit a little more forward and --maybe---shorten the distance enough to let the stock chain fit????? I haven't tried this so I don't know---it just seems possible that it might work if there is enough room ahead of the tire to allow this???? I'm just curious--wondering why this would not work? I'm thinking that it must not work or somebody would have mentioned it---Just curious--------
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Old 06-22-2011, 08:44 AM   #1700
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Originally Posted by Deseret Rider View Post
A comment on kickstands----and a question about chain length for 14/50 ?
On the 14/50 sprocket combo? From what has been said it seems that only one additional link is required to run that combo?----My question: I note that what I call the 'pusher block' for want of the correct name of the part (this is the block that the axel slides through and which the adjustment bolt positions----that block has two 'wings' each of a different length. I am running a 14/48 combo on my bike and using the longer of the two 'wings' in the adjustment. Would it not be possible to reverse the blocks so that the shorter wing contacts the adjustment screw? This would allow the tire to sit a little more forward and --maybe---shorten the distance enough to let the stock chain fit????? I haven't tried this so I don't know---it just seems possible that it might work if there is enough room ahead of the tire to allow this???? I'm just curious--wondering why this would not work? I'm thinking that it must not work or somebody would have mentioned it---Just curious--------
Flipping the axle blocks does not change the absolute length distance between the front and rear sprockets, it only allows you to use the full adjustment span of the oval bore in the swingarm (i.e. to allow you to run the axle all the way forward or all the way back, without either running out of clearance or having the chain adjuster bolt fall out of it's tapped hole).

When I swap SM and dirt wheels, I can leave the chain adjuster bolts in the same place and simply flip the axle blocks - this runs the axle all the way back in the swingarm for the street wheels/lower gearing, and a bit more than half-way forward for the dirt setup, and it's fast because I don't have to reset the adjuster bolts each time.

14-50 would be great gearing for the desert. It's too tall IMHO for tighter / doubletrack woods riding. It's WAAAAY too tall for real singletrack. I like 13-50 for woods, 13-52 for singletrack, 14-50 for dual-sport/desert.

dc
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Old 06-22-2011, 04:40 PM   #1701
hewhohesit8s
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deseret Rider View Post

On the 14/50 sprocket combo? [...snip]
Would it not be possible to reverse the blocks so that the shorter wing contacts the adjustment screw?
[...snip]
Short answer - no.

So I just finished installing the 14/50 with new chain. I too was hoping to use the stock chain, but even with a chain that had 20hrs on it, I couldn't even get the axle through. Here are the two (new 120 link and stock 118? link) side by site.



Here is what it looks like mounted...



And here it is closed....




So I'm not sure if the final count is 118 of 120 or 119 of 120. I didn't take the link counting course.

As a side note, as I was cleaning up after myself, I noticed there were two new greased o-rings on the floor.... looks like I will be breaking this frikken chain and putting a new master link in a few weeks. Fark.
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Old 06-22-2011, 05:30 PM   #1702
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Not sure what exactly you are asking but I flip the axel blocks back & forth to go from 48t on my 17s to a 50t on my dirt stuff and I don't need to adjust the chain. 2 teeth seems to be the range of the blocks when you have correct chain length and adjustment.
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Old 06-23-2011, 08:28 PM   #1703
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Originally Posted by hewhohesit8s View Post
As a side note, as I was cleaning up after myself, I noticed there were two new greased o-rings on the floor.... looks like I will be breaking this frikken chain and putting a new master link in a few weeks. Fark.


BTDT

Count the pins for an accurate length.
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Old 06-23-2011, 09:27 PM   #1704
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Originally Posted by neduro View Post


BTDT
I just wish I wasn't making every possible mistake along the way. If "education is when you read the fine print; experience is what you get when you don't", I may need to read more fine print.
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Old 06-24-2011, 05:58 AM   #1705
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Hi Kids!

So just broke 50 hours on the 530. Oh man do I love this bike.

Anyway, I just noticed that my forks are sticking a little bit. Was riding through town and noticed that when hitting the front brake at low speeds it would dive a bit more than usual and then seem to stay there. Once I got to the trails it felt fine. In the garage I have no trouble getting small movements from small force, but it sticks where I put it. Springs back from big force no problem.

Suggestions?
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Old 06-24-2011, 07:16 AM   #1706
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Time for a suspension service?
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Old 06-24-2011, 08:30 AM   #1707
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Time for a suspension service?

Though that is in the near future, the solution was simple:

A quick cleaning of the dust covers and a drop of fork oil on the tubes freed it right up!

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Old 06-24-2011, 02:10 PM   #1708
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Originally Posted by 309 View Post
Hi Kids!

So just broke 50 hours on the 530. Oh man do I love this bike.

Anyway, I just noticed that my forks are sticking a little bit. Was riding through town and noticed that when hitting the front brake at low speeds it would dive a bit more than usual and then seem to stay there. Once I got to the trails it felt fine. In the garage I have no trouble getting small movements from small force, but it sticks where I put it. Springs back from big force no problem.

Suggestions?
Blead the forks lately?
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Old 06-24-2011, 02:54 PM   #1709
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Blead the forks lately?
Yep. I've got fork bleeders on the bike. I also clean the dust seals out regularly, even though it doesn't seem like anything gets in there. This was just something I noticed while out riding yesterday and posted about before even trying anything. Turned out to be a very easy fix.
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Old 06-24-2011, 06:59 PM   #1710
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Ok, Guys I am wondering whats a good price to pay for a 2011 530EXC ?? OTD
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