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10-05-2011, 11:47 AM
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#2206 |
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Scooter Trash
Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Raising Hell in Dixie
Oddometer: 416
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Hose comes out of the top of the cylinder, Ts off to the transmition behind the starter motor and then to the bottom of the bike to the atmosphere. Biggest hose in the bunch and the one with positive pressure. I cant' locate it in the CycleHut Parts Microfiche so don't know the proper name for it. It's the only way I can think of for water to get inside the transmission oil. I will be putting a check valve on it soon but it just blows me away that backpressure could build up so quickly. The bike was under for less than 20 seconds, cranked up immediately and rode out. I'd be appreciative of any suggestions / theories.
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Been to Spain, Maine and Spokane. Jumped rope, smoked dope, farted, fucked and fought round the world, twice. Hell, I've even seen goats fuck in the market place, but I've never seen shit like this! |
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10-05-2011, 02:27 PM
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#2207 |
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Tuareg 2013
Joined: Jul 2003
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Oddometer: 11,341
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FWIW, I'm not a fan of any program that has an open pipe to inside my motor, positive pressure or no.
I don't see the problem with the stock routing. Get rid of the buggered EXC carb venting, but the crank/ head vent that goes to the carb, is not a liability IMO, even after having bikes upside down and backwards in every possible crashing configuration. The potential exists to get some negligable amount of oil into the carb, but the reality hasn't presented itself to me yet. ![]() BTW, been meaning to do a good update for the thread on my Dakar build and 450s in general... but no time now. So, the short version is... I love the 450. After years of 530, the 450 is smoother, easier to ride fast, has more boost than the 400, but makes it easy to keep the chassis settled in the same way. Good thing too, because I've got 4 450 engines now (3 for dakar and one bike I'm leaving together to ride)
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For Sale: FJ60, Defender 90, Superduke Doubletake Mirrors- Folding D/S mirror that is both useful and indestructible. Dual Sport Riding Techniques DVDs: Clear instructional DVDs to improve off-road skills. |
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10-05-2011, 04:26 PM
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#2208 |
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fishing with dynamite
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: on the road
Oddometer: 2,035
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I've been told that I can use something like a drain bolt for a KTM 200/300 to plug the carb vent? Can anybody verify this, or provide a part number?
EDIT: Dirt Rider magazine lists part number 0910100003, which is described as PLUG DIN0910-M 10X1. jesusgatos screwed with this post 10-06-2011 at 10:02 PM |
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10-05-2011, 04:38 PM
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#2209 |
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fishing with dynamite
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: on the road
Oddometer: 2,035
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Also wondering about the electrical side of things. Looking into lighting upgrades, most likely a Baja Designs 8" racelight. Will a rewound stator power a 100W halogen headlight? and grip-heaters? and GPS? If I decide to switch over to DC and go HID, how's that end up looking? Just wondering where people are mounting the regulator/rectifiers and how they're wired-up, etc. Have a brand new Ricky Stator reg/rec unit, but have been reading a little bit about the MOSFET regulator/rectifiers, wondering whether we can use those on these bikes.
By the way, if you have an EXC and want to simplify your wiring harness (eliminating the turn signals, keyed ignition, etc.), a complete XC-W wiring harness only costs $50. I have an XC-W, but was looking at my brother's EXC and seems like a plug-and-play deal. |
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10-05-2011, 04:53 PM
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#2210 |
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fishing with dynamite
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: on the road
Oddometer: 2,035
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Just called Baja Designs and their rewound stators are only putting out 130W (peak output), which they told me is only enough to run a 55W light. Trailtech claims their high-output stator puts out 100W (idle). Anybody know what that translates to at peak? Ricky Stator also lists their stators at 100W, but they don't specify whether that's at peak or at idle.
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10-06-2011, 11:09 AM
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#2211 |
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fishing with dynamite
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: on the road
Oddometer: 2,035
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Just ordered a 3.4G Acerbis tank, and am wondering if anybody has any experience with these rear saddle tanks.
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10-06-2011, 11:53 AM
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#2212 | |
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Wanderer
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: somwhere north of Kingston, Ontario
Oddometer: 2,442
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Quote:
dc |
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10-06-2011, 01:08 PM
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#2213 |
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fishing with dynamite
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: on the road
Oddometer: 2,035
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Thanks for the good word on that Country Doc.
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10-06-2011, 02:17 PM
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#2214 |
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Rally On
Joined: Feb 2006
Location: COS
Oddometer: 4,582
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Earlier posts in this thread, drew my attention to a "nice looking" skid plate for purchase on ebay.
I do not suggest trying this one if you are actually using off road. Here is why: - this is from riding trails in my normal rotation and my normal "spirited" usage, not a crash. - it does not offer rock protection on the right side cases. I think the photos say the rest. No before pictures. Edit: I did have on a 6 gal. Acerbis tank. I have had that tank on with other skids that were not that soft and did not grab rocks like this one did. ![]()
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10-06-2011, 02:19 PM
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#2215 |
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Rally On
Joined: Feb 2006
Location: COS
Oddometer: 4,582
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1+ on the trailtech. I used it to fire up a BD 6" Prerunner HID and a 20W Led. No issues at all.
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10-06-2011, 02:42 PM
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#2216 | |
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Biciveloce
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Not good
Is hard to tell when you buy something on line, what you are going to get. I got the same skid plate and I felt more secure with the stock plastic one. It looked very nice in the pictures but offers very little protection to the sides of the engine, so far so good I guess I haven't hit it too hard like you...
Quote:
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Piero Carlsbad |
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10-07-2011, 12:14 AM
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#2217 |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Hemet Ca.
Oddometer: 717
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Rear brake fade?
Anyone else having this issue?
![]() Doesn't take much for mine to loose the rear brake completely! Have bleed it, repeatedly! Bundy
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The 80`s..........ah yes...back in the days when men looked like women, women dressed like whores and the music F@#KING ROCKED! ![]() Check out http://seatconcepts.com/ , your ass will appreciate it! http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=621311 |
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10-07-2011, 05:07 AM
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#2218 | |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Aug 2006
Location: Down Under
Oddometer: 324
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Quote:
On a neutral throttle at (relatively) high speeds a loose chain can float and get caught on the left edge of the tyre causing a lot of slap that feels like bad vibration. Never seems to happen trail riding. If this is the case, you'll have some wear on your edge blocks.
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"Rally racing makes heroin addiction seem like a vague craving for something salty!" (Apologies to Peter Egan) The appropriate number of cylinders for any motorcycle is two. |
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10-07-2011, 07:00 AM
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#2219 | |
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Tuareg 2013
Joined: Jul 2003
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Oddometer: 11,341
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Quote:
Otherwise, good fluid- AP racing is the best I've found. I've never been able to boil it.
__________________
For Sale: FJ60, Defender 90, Superduke Doubletake Mirrors- Folding D/S mirror that is both useful and indestructible. Dual Sport Riding Techniques DVDs: Clear instructional DVDs to improve off-road skills. |
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10-07-2011, 07:34 PM
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#2220 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Brisbane
Oddometer: 168
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08 530 running rich
This is crazy. Got a wideband sensor to tune a mates bike. It runns 11.0:1 at idle and I cannot get it any leaner. Don't know the needle as it has no I.D but Iam down to a 160 main from a 172 and a 38 pilot!!
With 1/2 a turn out on the fuel screw and 2nd clip position from the top I can get around the mid 13:1 mark at idle, but as soon as I come off idle it drops to low 11's. Forgive me if I am wrong, but shouldn't idle and cruise be around 14:1? Power runs result in a fairly good range of 12.8-13.0:1 but the problem is if he stalls it when it's hot there is no way he can start it. Too Rich. Valves are good, if anything a little loose. Float level is good also. This is crap guy's. By the way I fiitted a new EMN needle to get a base setting but it was WAAAAYYY too rich. Is there a rare manufacturing problem I am missing with the carb?? Any suggestions would be great. |
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