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Old 10-05-2011, 11:47 AM   #2206
Fulano
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Raising Hell in Dixie
Oddometer: 428
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingDutchman View Post
How do you have it set up?

Stock, the trany and engine vents are combined at a T fitting and then they are vented into the carb.
Hose comes out of the top of the cylinder, Ts off to the transmition behind the starter motor and then to the bottom of the bike to the atmosphere. Biggest hose in the bunch and the one with positive pressure. I cant' locate it in the CycleHut Parts Microfiche so don't know the proper name for it. It's the only way I can think of for water to get inside the transmission oil. I will be putting a check valve on it soon but it just blows me away that backpressure could build up so quickly. The bike was under for less than 20 seconds, cranked up immediately and rode out. I'd be appreciative of any suggestions / theories.
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Old 10-05-2011, 02:27 PM   #2207
neduro OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fulano View Post
... then to the bottom of the bike to the atmosphere.
FWIW, I'm not a fan of any program that has an open pipe to inside my motor, positive pressure or no.

I don't see the problem with the stock routing. Get rid of the buggered EXC carb venting, but the crank/ head vent that goes to the carb, is not a liability IMO, even after having bikes upside down and backwards in every possible crashing configuration. The potential exists to get some negligable amount of oil into the carb, but the reality hasn't presented itself to me yet.



BTW, been meaning to do a good update for the thread on my Dakar build and 450s in general... but no time now. So, the short version is... I love the 450. After years of 530, the 450 is smoother, easier to ride fast, has more boost than the 400, but makes it easy to keep the chassis settled in the same way.

Good thing too, because I've got 4 450 engines now (3 for dakar and one bike I'm leaving together to ride)
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Old 10-05-2011, 04:26 PM   #2208
jesusgatos
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Location: on the road
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I've been told that I can use something like a drain bolt for a KTM 200/300 to plug the carb vent? Can anybody verify this, or provide a part number?

EDIT: Dirt Rider magazine lists part number 0910100003, which is described as PLUG DIN0910-M 10X1.

jesusgatos screwed with this post 10-06-2011 at 10:02 PM
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Old 10-05-2011, 04:38 PM   #2209
jesusgatos
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Also wondering about the electrical side of things. Looking into lighting upgrades, most likely a Baja Designs 8" racelight. Will a rewound stator power a 100W halogen headlight? and grip-heaters? and GPS? If I decide to switch over to DC and go HID, how's that end up looking? Just wondering where people are mounting the regulator/rectifiers and how they're wired-up, etc. Have a brand new Ricky Stator reg/rec unit, but have been reading a little bit about the MOSFET regulator/rectifiers, wondering whether we can use those on these bikes.

By the way, if you have an EXC and want to simplify your wiring harness (eliminating the turn signals, keyed ignition, etc.), a complete XC-W wiring harness only costs $50. I have an XC-W, but was looking at my brother's EXC and seems like a plug-and-play deal.
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Old 10-05-2011, 04:53 PM   #2210
jesusgatos
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Just called Baja Designs and their rewound stators are only putting out 130W (peak output), which they told me is only enough to run a 55W light. Trailtech claims their high-output stator puts out 100W (idle). Anybody know what that translates to at peak? Ricky Stator also lists their stators at 100W, but they don't specify whether that's at peak or at idle.
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Old 10-06-2011, 11:09 AM   #2211
jesusgatos
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Location: on the road
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Just ordered a 3.4G Acerbis tank, and am wondering if anybody has any experience with these rear saddle tanks.
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Old 10-06-2011, 11:53 AM   #2212
Country Doc
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Location: somwhere north of Kingston, Ontario
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jesusgatos View Post
Just called Baja Designs and their rewound stators are only putting out 130W (peak output), which they told me is only enough to run a 55W light. Trailtech claims their high-output stator puts out 100W (idle). Anybody know what that translates to at peak? Ricky Stator also lists their stators at 100W, but they don't specify whether that's at peak or at idle.
My trailtech stator can run at least 90 watts of HID ( 2x 30W front lights and a 30W helmet light) and a GPS with no appreciable drain on the battery. I have no idea what the actual numbers are but it works well.

dc
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Old 10-06-2011, 01:08 PM   #2213
jesusgatos
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Thanks for the good word on that Country Doc.
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Old 10-06-2011, 02:17 PM   #2214
c.vestal
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Earlier posts in this thread, drew my attention to a "nice looking" skid plate for purchase on ebay.
I do not suggest trying this one if you are actually using off road. Here is why:
- this is from riding trails in my normal rotation and my normal "spirited" usage, not a crash.
- it does not offer rock protection on the right side cases.
I think the photos say the rest. No before pictures.
Edit: I did have on a 6 gal. Acerbis tank. I have had that tank on with other skids that were not that soft and did not grab rocks like this one did.



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Old 10-06-2011, 02:19 PM   #2215
c.vestal
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Location: COS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Country Doc View Post
My trailtech stator can run at least 90 watts of HID ( 2x 30W front lights and a 30W helmet light) and a GPS with no appreciable drain on the battery. I have no idea what the actual numbers are but it works well.

dc
1+ on the trailtech. I used it to fire up a BD 6" Prerunner HID and a 20W Led. No issues at all.
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Old 10-06-2011, 02:42 PM   #2216
piercalif
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Location: San Diego North County Beach Area
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Not good

Is hard to tell when you buy something on line, what you are going to get. I got the same skid plate and I felt more secure with the stock plastic one. It looked very nice in the pictures but offers very little protection to the sides of the engine, so far so good I guess I haven't hit it too hard like you...



Quote:
Originally Posted by c.vestal View Post
Earlier posts in this thread, drew my attention to a "nice looking" skid plate for purchase on ebay.
I do not suggest trying this one if you are actually using off road. Here is why:
- this is from riding trails in my normal rotation and my normal "spirited" usage, not a crash.
- it does not offer rock protection on the right side cases.
I think the photos say the rest. No before pictures.
Edit: I did have on a 6 gal. Acerbis tank. I have had that tank on with other skids that were not that soft and did not grab rocks like this one did.



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Old 10-07-2011, 12:14 AM   #2217
mxbundy
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Location: Hemet Ca.
Oddometer: 876
Rear brake fade?

Anyone else having this issue?
Doesn't take much for mine to loose the rear brake completely!
Have bleed it, repeatedly!

Bundy
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Old 10-07-2011, 05:07 AM   #2218
Billy.B.F.
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Location: Down Under
Oddometer: 330
Quote:
Originally Posted by oinky1982 View Post
Yes, you're right but aroune 55 and 85 it does the same problem

No kidding
You running a big rear tyre?

On a neutral throttle at (relatively) high speeds a loose chain can float and get caught on the left edge of the tyre causing a lot of slap that feels like bad vibration.

Never seems to happen trail riding.

If this is the case, you'll have some wear on your edge blocks.
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Old 10-07-2011, 07:00 AM   #2219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mxbundy View Post
Anyone else having this issue?
Doesn't take much for mine to loose the rear brake completely!
Have bleed it, repeatedly!

Bundy
If you have some miles, it's not uncommon for the master cylinder to develop a leak. If you hold steady pressure on the lever at rest, will it eventually drop through the travel?

Otherwise, good fluid- AP racing is the best I've found. I've never been able to boil it.
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Old 10-07-2011, 07:34 PM   #2220
whozaberg
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Location: Brisbane
Oddometer: 168
08 530 running rich

This is crazy. Got a wideband sensor to tune a mates bike. It runns 11.0:1 at idle and I cannot get it any leaner. Don't know the needle as it has no I.D but Iam down to a 160 main from a 172 and a 38 pilot!!

With 1/2 a turn out on the fuel screw and 2nd clip position from the top I can get around the mid 13:1 mark at idle, but as soon as I come off idle it drops to low 11's.

Forgive me if I am wrong, but shouldn't idle and cruise be around 14:1? Power runs result in a fairly good range of 12.8-13.0:1 but the problem is if he stalls it when it's hot there is no way he can start it. Too Rich.

Valves are good, if anything a little loose. Float level is good also. This is crap guy's. By the way I fiitted a new EMN needle to get a base setting but it was WAAAAYYY too rich.

Is there a rare manufacturing problem I am missing with the carb?? Any suggestions would be great.
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