KTM 530 EXCR- More better!

[GlennR]

I'm looking at an 08' 530. I'm glad I found this thread.


I'm going to look at it on Wednesday. Don't know if I'll have time to read through the entire thread before then.

Any advice about thinngs to check for? I know about the rings, and the oil leaking from the engine into the tranny. Owner said it got new rings recently.

Hopefully, I will be "the new guy" on this thread in a few days.

[Duken4evr]

Originally Posted by Bungholio

I installed the fan kit on my 2009 530. Fan never came on even when the engine temp said 210 degrees F according to my TT Vapor. Connected wires together at thermo switch and fan runs great. Checked again couple days ago with engine temp at about 220 and still not running. Faulty thermo switch I guess.

What is a good choice for a manual switch? What are others using? I am thinking reuse the stock kill switch or maybe getting hiway dirt bikes setup with a switch in the top clamp.

After a couple of trips up and down the block I heard a scrunching sound from the radiator. Couldn't pinpoint it but I noticed the fan spun around about 4 times for no reason. Unplugged the wiring from switch and noise stopped. I removed the thermo switch and reinstalled the plug.

Does this bike run a little warmer with Clockworks tank vs stock tank?

The KTM thermoswitch is set to activate the fan at 100C. I have a TT temp gauge too, the fan did not activate until the water temp coming off the head hit 223F. 100C = 212F, but that is at the coolest part of the radiator.

Replaced my fan switch with a 95/90C Altrom Imports one for a BMW car. The part number is ATM 1435033, available at NAPA. The fan comes on now when the temp gauge reads 203F for the water coming off the head. The fan runs more of course, but the bike stays much cooler in the technical stuff and on hot days as a result. My bike is a 2010 'Berg 450, the stock stator puts out 211 watts, which is plenty. The new FI KTM models are like this as well. Not sure if running the fan more would be an issue for the 530's charging system though.

[FlyingDutchman]

Eh guys,

I've been doing a bit of winter maintenance. I've got an 09 with 180hrs, maybe 10 xc/enduro/trailride events. I'm 270 and probably bottom my forks every ride.

While pracrastinating from checking the rings and valves, I decided to rip my grips off and clean my throttle assembly. I found the throttle tube had worn a groove around the bar about 1/32" (1mm) depth.

Are my bars worn out?

[jesusgatos]

Would say it all depends on where that groove is.

[FlyingDutchman]

Originally Posted by jesusgatos

Would say it all depends on where that groove is.

About 4"in from the end.


I read an article in Dirt Bike about chucking the bars as soon as there is some noticed wear, but I would think owners would be replacing there bars twice a year, if that were true??

[jesusgatos]

That's far enough in that there's going to be a fair bit of leverage on the bars at that point. Time for a new pair of bars.

[Deseret Rider]

On the '08 530 the rocker arm bolt on the left side won't come out. Someone was asking about that recently. There have been several solutions proposed---all of them will work. I thought I'd share the way I handled it---maybe not the best way but maybe the quickest and it IS effective. I simply used a dremel tool with a very small, very thin, diamond blade and I cut off only exactly enough of that protrusion to allow the bolt to come out. There is still thread left inside the protrusion --and I simply used the cut off piece as a spacer when I put it back together. Yes. that protrusion will be shorter than it was before---shorter by the width of the blade that cut it----but I found that the tank still is held very securely by the rubber buffers---and the missing length isn't a problem. I'm not advocating this method for anyone else----just noting that it works for me
PS----very very thin cutting blade----with diamond dust cutting surface ----think I got it as part of a harbor freight tool set for the dremel.

[Hodakaguy]

Originally Posted by jesusgatos

That's far enough in that there's going to be a fair bit of leverage on the bars at that point. Time for a new pair of bars.

+1

Hodakaguy

[B-Rod]

Originally Posted by FlyingDutchman

I found the throttle tube had worn a groove around the bar about 1/32" (1mm) depth.

Are my bars worn out?

Have you used a pipe cutter before? 1mm does sound like much, but a nice smack could do it. New bars are cheap insurance against a very possible face plant at exactly the wrong time. (when is it ever the right time???). It's a good opportunity to have a look at some of the bar sites for bends that might be more suitable for you.

Now I need to have a look at mine.

[FlyingDutchman]

Originally Posted by jesusgatos

. Time for a new pair of bars.

Anybody have Renthal Twinwall bars installed?

http://www.renthal.com/File/sproduct...&bikedate=&z=1

They make a claim to have a harder surface at the controls;

"Inner tube is ultra high strength 7010 T6 Aluminium and is hard anodised to resist wear from twist grip and controls"

but

I read somewhere that they don't accept all handguard mounts.

[Krazyjohnny]

I am literally going crazy having to walk be both the KTM and the Yamaha everyday as I go to work and come home from work and knowing I cannot get on either of them.

Yep! There they sleep, on the tenders just waiting. The Aerostitch is hung in the closet, the helmets in their bags, and my dumbass hobbling by in this stinkin' brace. GRRRRRRR! It sucks getting hurt. All I need is about 60 degrees of flexion in my knee brace and I can ride one of them. Only a few more days.

[B-Rod]

Originally Posted by FlyingDutchman

Anybody have Renthal Twinwall bars installed?

http://www.renthal.com/File/sproduct...&bikedate=&z=1

They make a claim to have a harder surface at the controls;

"Inner tube is ultra high strength 7010 T6 Aluminium and is hard anodised to resist wear from twist grip and controls"

but

I read somewhere that they don't accept all handguard mounts.

Not sure if this will work, but one thing you could consider in this case is BRP threaded inserts, which includes a tap to thread the bars, then you can mount any hand guards after that (might need different clamps, or centre mount like Bonz or something). I made a couple of sets using a 5/8" bolt, drilled the centre for 8mm, and slotted to install them. Bit of work to save $29, but time is plentiful in my world. Just finished working a 12 hour shift, and I haven't even got out of bed yet

[FlyingDutchman]

Originally Posted by B-Rod

Not sure if this will work, but one thing you could consider in this case is BRP threaded inserts,

Doesn't work with the Renthal Twinwall...

[B-Rod]

Originally Posted by FlyingDutchman

Doesn't work with the Renthal Twinwall...

Oh, wasn't sure. Another option that does fit hand guards easily is conventional bars, and maybe a ProTaper throttle tube, which uses a bearing to reduce friction on the bars.

[jesusgatos]

Originally Posted by FlyingDutchman

Anybody have Renthal Twinwall bars installed?

Nobody has the aluminum design/manufacturing capabilities that Easton does, and the engineering and test data that I've seen shows that their bars are measurably better than anything else out there. Chuck Teixeira at Easton designed the original 1 1/8" bars for Pro Taper, and Easton manufactured them for a number of years. By most accounts, quality/performance went down when that relationship ended. So I would highly recommend Easton's EXP bars. Pretty sure the 1 3/8" bars have been discontinued, as they're on blowout at motosport and other places for something like $70 (including new handlebar perches). Problem with the 1 3/8" bars is that they really never launched the accessories that I designed for them, so mounting a steering stabilizer and handguards might be a hassle (that's why I'm running their 1 1/8" bars on my KTM).

Originally Posted by FlyingDutchman

Doesn't work with the Renthal Twinwall...

...unless you drill before tapping? Shouldn't be a problem as long as you only drill as deep as you need to tap, right?

Originally Posted by B-Rod

Oh, wasn't sure. Another option that does fit hand guards easily is conventional bars, and maybe a ProTaper throttle tube, which uses a bearing to reduce friction on the bars.

Am running a G2 throttle tube on my KTM right now. The new ones have delrin inserts, which should pretty much eliminate the wear that we're talking about. Their old throttle tubes were just anodized aluminum, and ruined my last set of bars. Just mentioning that because those old ones still pop-up on ebay.