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Old 04-16-2012, 08:34 AM   #3091
1 lunger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bungholio View Post
I currently have the Michelin AC10 set mounted and like them. They are non-directional too. Cannot speak for durability since I have only had them on for about 100 miles. They do seem to handle well for the two trail rides I have done with them. Previously had Pirelli XCMH rear and MT21 front which worked ok as well. I've always liked Pirellis for DS use.
I have an AC 10 on the Husqy and I love it!! It carries me through, up anything and very well! Don't think it will last too long under the power of a big bike, but it's fun while it lasts! Don't bring it on the road or it will disappear and it was murder mounting it!


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Old 04-16-2012, 08:36 AM   #3092
Krazyjohnny
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Sag vs Sag

Ned,

I am at 44 mm Static sag.

114.5 with my fat arse on the bike and no gear on.

I totally understand what you are talking about having dealt with this in cars and Jeeps.

Any tips on getting it a bit lower so I do not "turtle up" getting on and off of the bike.

BTW the Double Take Mirrors are the bomb.
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Old 04-16-2012, 08:40 AM   #3093
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Seat shave

KrazyJohnny / others: Re SEAT SHAVE:

*How* do you shave the seat foam? A bit of a step by step - can you post the method of how to unsecure the cover/recover/where to shave and how?
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Old 04-16-2012, 08:57 AM   #3094
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Shaving the Seat

This is very simple and sounds pretty mysterious. It is a project best done while the wife is out because you will have to "borrow" her electric knife, bread knife, or long serrated bladed device. You will also need a small flat screwdriver, needle nose pliers, heavy duty staples (1/4" long), Heavy duty stapler, and Belt sander with 80 grit paper.

Check out YouTube for some tutorials as well.

1.) Remove the seat from the bik. D'uh!

2.) Flip the seat over and remove the staples from around the bottom side of the seat pan. I used a small flat screw driver and a pair of needle nose pliers.

3.) Now lay the seat down on on the bike and use a sharpie to mark some reference points for where you sit on the seat.

4.) Layout how you want to cut the seat down using a straight edge and sharpie or you can free hand it if you would like a more "organic" shape.

5.) Start cutting using your device of choice.

6.) Use a belt sander with 80 grit to smooth it out and round the edges off.

7.) Recover the seat starting at the front then working to the rear down both sides of the pan stretching the fabric smoothly and stapling it back into place.
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Old 04-16-2012, 09:00 AM   #3095
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iPhone GPS for off road

Any of you ever use the iPhone as an offroad GPS? If so what Apps have you found to be the best? I tried to search the equipment forum and it puked up on me. I am also looking at a Garmin Montana, but as an interim thinking on using the iPhone 4s I already own.
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Old 04-16-2012, 09:03 AM   #3096
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Quick question as it is long time since i last did the teardown and im guessing.

The pushrod at clutchslave area does it need this part.


In the pushrod "hole". Is this right?



And the slaveunit need this look ay?


Or is the pushrod-engine area like this.




Best regards
Mikael
Denmark
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Old 04-16-2012, 09:21 AM   #3097
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krazyjohnny View Post
Any of you ever use the iPhone as an offroad GPS? If so what Apps have you found to be the best? I tried to search the equipment forum and it puked up on me. I am also looking at a Garmin Montana, but as an interim thinking on using the iPhone 4s I already own.
Motion x gps works well.


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Old 04-16-2012, 09:52 AM   #3098
antpatterson
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I got my headlight and taillight for my XCRW today. Went to install and cannot locate a connector for the headlight, and the connector for the taillight seems to be missing a wire on the third hole. Anyone got any solutions? What's the part # for that factory connector for the taillight and headlight? There's one connector open behind the number plate but it's not the same size as the one for the headlight, could it be wrapped up or hidden somewhere? I only took the seat and number plate off since it was supposed to be "easy."
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Old 04-16-2012, 10:19 AM   #3099
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Quote:
Originally Posted by antpatterson View Post
I got my headlight and taillight for my XCRW today. Went to install and cannot locate a connector for the headlight, and the connector for the taillight seems to be missing a wire on the third hole. Anyone got any solutions? What's the part # for that factory connector for the taillight and headlight? There's one connector open behind the number plate but it's not the same size as the one for the headlight, could it be wrapped up or hidden somewhere? I only took the seat and number plate off since it was supposed to be "easy."
My XCW was a Six Days Model, so came with a headlight/taillight, but no brake light switch, so that explains the missing third wire. Pretty sure all the XCW wiring harnesses are the same though, and there's definitely a headlight connector.
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Old 04-16-2012, 10:36 AM   #3100
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There's a square connector but it's not matching the headlights connector. And I plugged the taillight wire into the factory connector but it did not light up when I started the bike up.
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Old 04-16-2012, 11:30 AM   #3101
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I think you're about right on spring rate, that's the good news.

The correct way to lower it is to have a suspension shop take some travel out of it. And, just taking travel out of the rear (with the off-center pds bushnig that is available, or etc) leads to unbalanced handling. Sorry, I know that wasn't the answer you were hoping for...

Sliding the forks up in the triples can lead to the tire bottoming into the fender before the suspension has finished travel- those kinds of hits are usually not a good time to lock the wheel up!

Or, you can Gaston Rahier it- when in doubt, upshift!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Krazyjohnny View Post
Ned,

I am at 44 mm Static sag.

114.5 with my fat arse on the bike and no gear on.
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Old 04-16-2012, 12:24 PM   #3102
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I had mine down locally - re-springing F&R and lowering/recharge disassemble and clean/rebuild was about $750
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Old 04-16-2012, 12:36 PM   #3103
Bob599
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KrazyJohnny lower it

I had a similar issue with getting on and off the bike with the loaded giant loop. I also would struggle with low speed dabs in tough terrain. I had a revelation last summer when riding with a friend with only one arm. He had lowered the bike to flat track or supermoto style suspension while keeping it dual sport soft. He rode every trail I rode only much faster. This mad me realize if I am not riding Motorcross any longer I am really riding TT, Flat track and supermoto. Why am I putting up with this issue caused by a motorcoss height suspension. So this spring I took the leap and lowered my bike 3 inches. Spent last weekend riding the bike in the UP with lots of whooped out sand mixed with tight rocky sections and of course upper mid west cedar swamp. I absolutely loved it. Never bottomed out the suspension, but did bump the skid plate once or twice. As Ned said suspension can make or break the handling. If you have any questions about set up buy His book. If you have any questions about lowering the bike pm me.
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Old 04-16-2012, 12:56 PM   #3104
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Bob,

I know that is right. I may just have to learn how to ride better and save my self about a grand for the time being.

I also need to know what spring is on there. As Ned said it may be pretty close already.
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Old 04-16-2012, 01:20 PM   #3105
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My local KTM dealer lowered mine 3 inches including new cut springs for the forks, seals, oil, and removable spacers so I can go back to stock for $400.00. Not too hefty a price for all that. Plus the bike handles like you wouldn't believe being lowered.
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