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Old 08-30-2012, 09:56 PM   #3481
MrEndo
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New to me 530

The speedo goes off after a brief moment at stop lights. Is there a battery in the unit that needs replacing? Tried a search with no luck.
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Old 08-30-2012, 10:19 PM   #3482
jesusgatos
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Originally Posted by MrEndo View Post
The speedo goes off after a brief moment at stop lights. Is there a battery in the unit that needs replacing? Tried a search with no luck.
Yes. Think it's a CR2430.
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Old 08-31-2012, 11:22 AM   #3483
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Originally Posted by Brett943 View Post
Thanks Lukas, tonight I installed the new o-ring, bolt and washer and it appears to have solved my problems. I did notice the beginning of a groove on that bushing so will keep an eye on it and if it decides to leak again I will replace that. I dont feel like pulling it apart again tmrw to drop that in if the leak seems to have stopped. Next time I'll ask here before assuming what my problem is to save time and frustration. Thanks again to you and Navin for helping me out
Thanks for the info on this fix. My '08 530 just started making 'oil spin art' on my counter sprocket today. I picked up an All Balls counter shaft seal replacement kit for it so hopefully it has all the pieces I need. I hope to get into it tomorrow. First time doing it. Anybody have the link to the write up on changing the counter sprocket oil seal? I searched for it to check it out as an overview, but couldn't find it. I thought I book marked it. guess not. Seems straight forward enough. Thanks!
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Old 08-31-2012, 11:30 AM   #3484
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Originally Posted by jesusgatos View Post
Running 15/45 (3) with a 17" rear wheel and it's pretty flat on the bottom, but it'll cruise along happily at 80mph all day long. Still pulls surprisingly hard on the topend, especially for a little 450. All depends on what kind of riding you're going to be doing, and I've just been doing is burning-up the highways lately, so that gearing suits me perfectly. Also works out to be really convenient when I switch back to dirt wheels and 14/48 gearing. All I have to do is flip the axle-blocks around and the chain tension is just about perfect.
Yeh, 15/45 is fine on the street w/supermoto wheels or knobbies, but a little tall on the trail. 14/48 is what I'm switching to soon for a little lower gearing on the trails. I also use a 14T counter sprocket for a 14/45 for a quick change to a lower gear. It's not huge, but does the trick for now. :)
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Old 08-31-2012, 11:42 AM   #3485
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Oh, 15/45 is useless off-road. I was just responding to the guy's question about sustained speeds over 70mph.
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Old 09-01-2012, 04:35 AM   #3486
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrEndo View Post
The speedo goes off after a brief moment at stop lights. Is there a battery in the unit that needs replacing? Tried a search with no luck.
There is a button battery that holds personal settings and powers the LCD. The backlight is powered from the bikes battery. Your speedo might just be playing up, or could be a weird out from a low battery. Try replacing the button battery and see if it fixes it. These speedos can be finicky and play up a lot. You have to remove the speedo and use a 20c or 50c coin to open the screw cap underneath. Go to dick smith or similar place and get a replacement. Only a few bucks.
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Old 09-01-2012, 08:48 AM   #3487
Brett943
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Originally Posted by trailjammer View Post
Thanks for the info on this fix. My '08 530 just started making 'oil spin art' on my counter sprocket today. I picked up an All Balls counter shaft seal replacement kit for it so hopefully it has all the pieces I need. I hope to get into it tomorrow. First time doing it. Anybody have the link to the write up on changing the counter sprocket oil seal? I searched for it to check it out as an overview, but couldn't find it. I thought I book marked it. guess not. Seems straight forward enough. Thanks!
Im sure others have better ways of doing it but heres what I did: *drain gearbox oil*
1) loosen CS sprocket(put in first and have someone hold the rear brake)
2)rear wheel off the ground, loosen rear axle nut and back in adjusters all the way, pull axle and slide wheel forward
3)pull chain off rear sprocket so there is enough play to free the CS sprocket
4)remove CS bolt and washer
5)using pliers pull the metal bushing out, there is a black o-ring behind it(remove if you have a new one)
6)this was the hard part for me. to remove the seal i had to take a very small flat head screw driver and bend in the edge of the seal enough to get the screw driver behing and bend down so i could a good grip with needle nose pliers. There must be a better way of doing this but i tried pulling from the back side with no luck. my old seal came out mangled.
7)Time to reassemble- insert new seal by using a large socket or something the same diameter as the seal and tap it gently back into place(put oil on rubber of seal)
8)if you have a new o-ring oil it and slide that on then slide the bushing back on(grooved side to the inside)
9)slide CS sprocket on, then new washer and bolt(with loctite or thread tape? if not on there already)
10)put chain back on, slide axle in
11)*torque* cs bolt ensuring the washer stays centered
12)adjust chain slack
13)FILL GEARBOX OIL!!!! and go ride

If anyone feels there is a better way (especially to remove the old seal) I'd be happy to know. Good luck
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Old 09-01-2012, 09:14 AM   #3488
Foot dragger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brett943 View Post
Im sure others have better ways of doing it but heres what I did: *drain gearbox oil*
1) loosen CS sprocket(put in first and have someone hold the rear brake)
2)rear wheel off the ground, loosen rear axle nut and back in adjusters all the way, pull axle and slide wheel forward
3)pull chain off rear sprocket so there is enough play to free the CS sprocket
4)remove CS bolt and washer
5)using pliers pull the metal bushing out, there is a black o-ring behind it(remove if you have a new one)
6)this was the hard part for me. to remove the seal i had to take a very small flat head screw driver and bend in the edge of the seal enough to get the screw driver behing and bend down so i could a good grip with needle nose pliers. There must be a better way of doing this but i tried pulling from the back side with no luck. my old seal came out mangled.
7)Time to reassemble- insert new seal by using a large socket or something the same diameter as the seal and tap it gently back into place(put oil on rubber of seal)
8)if you have a new o-ring oil it and slide that on then slide the bushing back on(grooved side to the inside)
9)slide CS sprocket on, then new washer and bolt(with loctite or thread tape? if not on there already)
10)put chain back on, slide axle in
11)*torque* cs bolt ensuring the washer stays centered
12)adjust chain slack
13)FILL GEARBOX OIL!!!! and go ride

If anyone feels there is a better way (especially to remove the old seal) I'd be happy to know. Good luck
Seal puller works fine,I have even used a spring puller,anything that hooks on the backside of the seal will do it. Ive always replaced the o-ring,bushing,seal at the same time. Hooking the seal puller behind the seal then tapping on it with something will get the seal out,they arent that tight.
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Old 09-01-2012, 09:25 AM   #3489
Foot dragger
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Originally Posted by jesusgatos View Post
Oh, 15/45 is useless off-road. I was just responding to the guy's question about sustained speeds over 70mph.
I rode some tight singletrack on the 530 last weekend with 14/50 gearing. 1st is too low,2nd is too high,probably goes over 30 in 2nd with that gearing so not so good for crawling around and under trees.
Cruises great at 75 that way though. I put 400 miles on the thing going sideways about half the time right next to a buddy on a pumped up XR650R. All dirt road with some trails. The XR650R had more steam but mainly spun its tire while the 530 hooked up and drove ahead. It was treat to sit and rest while he kicked,and kicked,and kicked the 650 to make it go. Once really hot those big singles dont like to fire so easy sometimes.

I had a LOT of fun on the first long ride on the 530! Truly a nice handling bike on trail or dirt road and flattracks off corners with the best of them.
Stock muffler sucks and makes it run like a big Trail 90,its in a box now and a Q4 FMF went on. Also ripped all the knobs off the stock ft tire,looked fine when I left then all the side knobs came off both sides of the tire. POS.

Fun Bike!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 09-01-2012, 11:25 AM   #3490
Navin
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Tight single track is 13/50 territory. Use first in only the tightest of spots and gets you into 2nd and 3rd more often. 14/50 is a better street and open terrain gear.
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Old 09-01-2012, 06:19 PM   #3491
Foot dragger
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Tight single track is 13/50 territory. Use first in only the tightest of spots and gets you into 2nd and 3rd more often. 14/50 is a better street and open terrain gear.
Thats what I was thinking. I could probably get away with the 13/50 all the time as road use isnt why I got the bike. But then Id rather have 14/53 for longer chain/
sprocket life most likely.
I also noticed the clutch doesnt like to quite dis-engage all the way, it just slightly drags when the handle is pulled in all the way. Ive seen this issue come up before on this thread,any ideas on that? All my other bikes with electric start will start in gear with the clutch pulled in no problem,530's just dont do that I guess?
Not an easy bike to tap into neutral sometimes.
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Old 09-01-2012, 06:23 PM   #3492
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Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
Thats what I was thinking. I could probably get away with the 13/50 all the time as road use isnt why I got the bike. But then Id rather have 14/53 for longer chain/
sprocket life most likely.
I also noticed the clutch doesnt like to quite dis-engage all the way, it just slightly drags when the handle is pulled in all the way. Ive seen this issue come up before on this thread,any ideas on that? All my other bikes with electric start will start in gear with the clutch pulled in no problem,530's just dont do that I guess?
Not an easy bike to tap into neutral sometimes.
I have to bleed my clutch fluid all the time. Probably every other ride, I don't get any noticable bubbles out of it but it'll die if I brake slide the bike even with the clutch in
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Old 09-01-2012, 06:33 PM   #3493
Foot dragger
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I have to bleed my clutch fluid all the time. Probably every other ride, I don't get any noticable bubbles out of it but it'll die if I brake slide the bike even with the clutch in
Yup,between the tall gearing on single track running second and keeping a finger on the clutch,it was too easy to stall it with the clutch drag,then hard to find neutral once stalled. Ive had many KTM's with the hydraulic clutch,most all 2 strokes,I bleed the clutch maybe once a year just to be nice,they have never had a dragging problem.
I will work with it. This bike isnt even broken in all the way yet,shifting got better just on the one 400 mile ride,brakes came in nicely.
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Old 09-01-2012, 07:58 PM   #3494
Navin
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Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
Thats what I was thinking. I could probably get away with the 13/50 all the time as road use isnt why I got the bike. But then Id rather have 14/53 for longer chain/
sprocket life most likely.
I also noticed the clutch doesnt like to quite dis-engage all the way, it just slightly drags when the handle is pulled in all the way. Ive seen this issue come up before on this thread,any ideas on that? All my other bikes with electric start will start in gear with the clutch pulled in no problem,530's just dont do that I guess?
Not an easy bike to tap into neutral sometimes.

I doubt it'll really make a difference and you just increased unsprung weight too. Not that you'll feel it but how many extra rides do you think it'll be before it is shagged anyway? I run cheapo steel Rockymountainatv stuff with their best home brand chain. I can't see a tooth up front making a days ride difference, it'll be shagged when it is shagged!

As to the clutch, sounds like a notched basket but you say the bike is new, right? Have you adjusted the lever? Try a good bleed too as advised above.

I run a Magura 9.0 and mineral oil with a Midwest Engineering lever and the combo blows the stock Brembo away. The downside is the engagement zone is longer so the lever needs to come near the bar so 2 fingers on a one finger effort lever are needed to get it that close. The upside besides super easy lever pull? The engagement zone is longer so it is easier to maintain traction and get the slip just right. I may trim the lever down to a single finger size if I can't adjust to it. I had to remind myself to use both fingers today, it'll probably be natural soon.

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Old 09-01-2012, 08:51 PM   #3495
Hayduke
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w00t! I just joined the 530 ranks!





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