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Old 10-15-2013, 05:25 PM   #4981
Beardoge
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Well I'll be damned what a great idea !

I have no less than 4 new H4 bulbs laying around here for the snowmobiles, why the hell did I just buy the $15 halogen from sicass that's only a little brighter than the incandescent 35w the bike came with..... damn it..
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Old 10-16-2013, 03:47 PM   #4982
Honkey Cat
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Originally Posted by dieselcruiserhead View Post
Six days models come 15 52 I think, or at least my 450 did.. Deep... I'm rocking 14/50 right now and loving it...

Re oil burning if it helps new piston pretty much eliminated all oil consumption... 2011s shouldn't transfer oil and therefore shouldn't burn either other than via the piston.. 50cc is nothing though at all


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk, hence the typos...
I have a 2010 ktm xcw six days and from factory it came with 13/50
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Old 10-16-2013, 03:49 PM   #4983
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Originally Posted by JTOP View Post
I'm in the market for a spare rear wheel so I don't have to keep changing out my tire when I go to the dunes. Paddles are a PIA. Anyway, anyone know about WARP 9 wheels? Seem to be the most reasonable option out there at $380 for complete rear with disk and sprocket. 19" rears are lot cheaper, but that would mean having to buy a new paddle tire and not sure about the fit. My current setup doesn't leave much room between the tire and swing arm- altough I could probably add a link to slove that. Any ideas?
warp9's also come with a lifetime warranty against cracks, etc...
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Old 10-16-2013, 05:01 PM   #4984
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Originally Posted by Honkey Cat View Post
I have a 2010 ktm xcw six days and from factory it came with 13/50
is it a 450 or 530?
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Old 10-16-2013, 08:24 PM   #4985
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I finally rebuilt the 450 Dakar motor.

And by "I", I mean a KTM wrench friend- I dropped it off and left for a trip and returned to a running bike.

This motor has ~240 hours, including the first half of Dakar. I have put one intake valve guide seal in it, religiously changed oil and run clean air filters. It has never taken a shim and I more or less quit checking 100 hours ago. This is the first top end service.

The report is awesome. Valves had light pitting that lapped in with minimal effort. Nothing needed replacing, except rings, that had a gap measured by a tape measure- something like 1/16-1/8". Hopefully, this will return some of the horsepower that I remember but have not felt of late.

I think the XC4 motor is awesome, and I think Dell West valves set the standard in the industry.

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Old 10-17-2013, 07:36 AM   #4986
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Originally Posted by Honkey Cat View Post
warp9's also come with a lifetime warranty against cracks, etc...
I would have gone with the warp9s for cost but I would like a cush drive rear. I am seriously looking at the RAD built wheels with excel rims ~ $1700
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Old 10-17-2013, 07:38 AM   #4987
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For the RAD wheels they have an option for 4.25, 4.5, and 5 in rear wheel. I was going to go with the 4.5in. You guys think that is a good choice? Could either run a 150 or 160 pilot power on it? Probably going to get a 150 to be safe.
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Old 10-17-2013, 01:03 PM   #4988
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I did a lot of reading before I bought my wheels cush/vs non. After a discussion with Motostrano I didn't go with the cush drive (and saved some money) They don't worry about cush until they're working with above 650cc's.

I have not had any issues on my 450 and I doubt a 530 would need them either. I run a 150 rear and even with that the chain self clearances the tire.

If you're dead set on it, a great option for you is the wheel set from a Husaberg 570sm. Spokes, cush drive and tubless. I think my KTM dealer told me they're a direct bolt on (been a while since we had that conversation though)
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Old 10-17-2013, 04:56 PM   #4989
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Originally Posted by 59ksmall View Post
I would have gone with the warp9s for cost but I would like a cush drive rear. I am seriously looking at the RAD built wheels with excel rims ~ $1700

I just sold my set of rad wheels and excel rims with new conti sm tires for $1100. shipped. I did not have a cush drive and if you are not slamming gears and you rev match on the downshift It is not necessary but you can never go wrong with the extra insurance .
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Old 10-17-2013, 04:57 PM   #4990
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Originally Posted by 59ksmall View Post
For the RAD wheels they have an option for 4.25, 4.5, and 5 in rear wheel. I was going to go with the 4.5in. You guys think that is a good choice? Could either run a 150 or 160 pilot power on it? Probably going to get a 150 to be safe.
I had the 5" on the rear and it did fit with a 160 rear tire, but it was a pain to get on and off with the brake, my next set would be 4.25.
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Old 10-17-2013, 05:10 PM   #4991
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Need a chain

Looks like its time to freshen up the drive train...already got my mind made up on Ironman/Dirt tricks sprockets but can't decide on a chain...
O-Ring vs Non O-ring....there a few 'narrow' ones which I think are for CRFs....top of my list at the moment is DID 520VX2....or RK GB520EXW...
opinions, practical advice or real world experience welcomed.
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Old 10-18-2013, 04:58 AM   #4992
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Originally Posted by Michhub View Post
Looks like its time to freshen up the drive train...already got my mind made up on Ironman/Dirt tricks sprockets but can't decide on a chain...
O-Ring vs Non O-ring....there a few 'narrow' ones which I think are for CRFs....top of my list at the moment is DID 520VX2....or RK GB520EXW...
opinions, practical advice or real world experience welcomed.
i just took that ERT2 chain off my bike... not even a year, and it stretched like crazy, every time i rode.... crazy worn when i took it off, you could move the links alot.... put on the DID VT2(?) narrow X-ring, got a few rides, seems much better.. it moved a little at first, and now not at all.... look around, you can get one delivered for @ $110... for me the ERT2 pretty much sukked.... but i ran it 13/52, and i think the 13 front is a little harder on chains.... now 14/52.... won't do that ERT2 again!..... YMMV.... my $.03.....
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Old 10-18-2013, 05:34 AM   #4993
mountaincadre
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michhub View Post
Looks like its time to freshen up the drive train...already got my mind made up on Ironman/Dirt tricks sprockets but can't decide on a chain...
O-Ring vs Non O-ring....there a few 'narrow' ones which I think are for CRFs....top of my list at the moment is DID 520VX2....or RK GB520EXW...
opinions, practical advice or real world experience welcomed.
If your riding dirt a lot avoid using an O ring as the dirt just gets trapped in between the o rings and the plates causing premature wear, as a rule of thumb I use o ring for road,(even if its a dirt bike on the road) and non o ring for dirt, best practice on either though is keep it clean(properly clean)
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Old 10-18-2013, 08:05 AM   #4994
ChasM
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Originally Posted by mountaincadre View Post
If you're riding dirt a lot avoid using an O ring as the dirt just gets trapped in between the o rings and the plates causing premature wear, as a rule of thumb I use o ring for road,(even if it's a dirt bike on the road) and non o ring for dirt.

I doubt that many folks would agree with this.

O-ring chains last much longer than non O-ring chains in any environment. The internal O-ring grease is pretty much sealed off from the elements so a little non-sticky lube is all that is needed to protect and lube the chain rollers.
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Old 10-18-2013, 09:59 AM   #4995
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is it a 450 or 530?

its a 530
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