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Old 09-01-2010, 09:57 PM   #631
dirtdiver
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I need to get out and ride some. The summer is not really our season in San Diego. But it's coming...

steve
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Old 09-02-2010, 12:36 PM   #632
jrproper
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Very well stated Ned!

Quote:
Originally Posted by neduro
I'm not convinced it's super important, but I run 20/50 Golden Spectro (synthetic) in both engine and tranny. My logic is that it's reasonably priced, has served me well for many bikes, and seems to be friendly to clutches.

As for interval, I change very often (2-4 hours, or a good ride) in a new bike, and once it's really broken in (20-30 hours) I go to 10-15 hour intervals on engine oil, double that on tranny.

That's the goal, anyway, but it's not always that scientific or precise. Most of my riding comes in bunches, where I go on a trip and ride 3-4 days in a row. On a motor that has some hours, I don't sweat running the oil for the trip, then I change it when I get home. That means some intervals get stretched and some are shorter, and I haven't found that to be a big deal.

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Old 09-02-2010, 12:40 PM   #633
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Do something about that already.

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Originally Posted by Yardstick
I haven't even ridden my 2010 yet!
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Old 09-02-2010, 02:38 PM   #634
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Location: Chandler, Arizona
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrproper
Do something about that already.
I'm trying! Parts are starting to dribble in. The stabilizer is on! Hand guards and rear spring are on too. The rear spring was a 7.6 already. Anybody know if that mean I have .48's in the front? They feel pretty good, but I have .50's too. I went to a P25 for the rear because I had it. We'll see how that goes. Usually I like the standard or straight rate springs better.

For jetting I'm going to try the OBDTR needle in the fourth position, 185 main and 42 pilot to start with. After cutting out the restrictor and de-smogging of course.
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Old 09-02-2010, 05:44 PM   #635
andrewlat
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I figured I'd post an updated pic of my bike, now that it has some farkles and miles on it.



Current mods/farkles:
Stealth de-smog
JD jet kit
FMF Factory 4.1 complete exhaust
EE soft, standard height seat
Sicass flush mount rear indicators
X2 dual sport halogen headlamp
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Old 09-03-2010, 03:32 PM   #636
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Quote:
Originally Posted by never.ride
So, I've been in the market to replace my 2005 450 EXC. It was my first real dirt bike and it has been great. No issues at all, just want to move to the next generation. I am a pretty small guy, 5'7" and 148lbs without gear. I live in Boulder, CO and ride mostly trails with about a dozen trips to Moab/Fruita and a few enduros and hare scrambles thrown in for fun. I'm a B level rider and for sure like it get after it a bit.

What can you guys say about the new engine/chassis and the way to flops side to side on tight trails and it's low speed handling, etc vs. the old 450/525.

I've been looking at a Husaberg FE 390 but they are really expensive out of the box and there are not too many used ones around. I have the opportunity to pick up a brand new 530 exc with skid plate, tank, etc for $6800. The guy bought it and never rode it! I like spending $$ on new fun stuff, but getting a deal is always great.

Just wondering if it may be too much bike for a little guy like me? Or, but very similar to my old 450 in the tight sections but better overall for more wide open stuff.

Any input is greatly appreciated!
Where the the RFS 450 and 525 differed in bore, the new 450 and 530 differ in stroke. The new 450 turns better than the 530 and feels lighter too. For HS racing I'd take the 450 if given the choice.



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Old 09-09-2010, 06:36 PM   #637
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Luck of the draw...

The luck of the draw...

After 4 bulletproof and oil-tight 530's, I was beginning to think that rumors of oil consumption were overrated... but my current bike had started to consume oil around 30 hours (now at 66). My first response was to doubt my data collection methodology, but eventually it became hard to deny that I had to add oil after a day of riding. The rate of consumption didn't seem to change... it just seemed to drink oil. I searched for reasons why this could be happening, decided that it was probably not because I had been a bad person or that KTM hates me and instead that something mechanical was amiss. So, I decided to tear in.



The short version of the story is that I found an intake valve guide seal lifted off.

While I was in there, we replaced all 4 valve guide seals, and found that the other intake seal was barely in place (the seal lifted off by hand) while the exhaust seals were super tight, and due to oil buildup on the exhaust valves, the exhaust valves were binding in their motion (fixed with a good cleaning). I replaced rings as well, which were slightly worn, I can't find a spec but they were both around .025", where new should be about .015"... I doubt this was an operational issue.

No real time on the bike since the repair, but I'm sure we've got the oil consumption fixed. At the end of the day, for a reasonably skilled mechanic, this job should take about 4-5 hours if you are not drinking beer. An intake valve guide seal (59036027000) is $4.74, a head gasket (78030036000) $30.22, and a base gasket (78030035000) $5.08, so if your bike is drinking oil, you're probably less than $50 from fixing the problem, a few dollars more if you opt to replace rings as well.

I took pictures and handwritten notes to do a writeup on the procedure, but don't have time to post that right now. Suffice to say, it's not that bad and doesn't require any rocket surgery.

A few pics from the operation:



Cylinder head before:



After:



After we took the valves out, a buddy dropped the whole shebang in a parts washer for a few hours, this was the result.

Something is missing! I'm sure of it! I just can't figure out what...



It really does come out, but it takes just the right angle:



It'll be back to its old shenanigans in no time.

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Old 09-09-2010, 08:38 PM   #638
osteo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neduro
The luck of the draw...

After 4 bulletproof and oil-tight 530's, I was beginning to think that rumors of oil consumption were overrated... but my current bike had started to consume oil around 30 hours (now at 66). My first response was to doubt my data collection methodology, but eventually it became hard to deny that I had to add oil after a day of riding. The rate of consumption didn't seem to change... it just seemed to drink oil. I searched for reasons why this could be happening, decided that it was probably not because I had been a bad person or that KTM hates me and instead that something mechanical was amiss. So, I decided to tear in.



The short version of the story is that I found an intake valve guide seal lifted off.

While I was in there, we replaced all 4 valve guide seals, and found that the other intake seal was barely in place (the seal lifted off by hand) while the exhaust seals were super tight, and due to oil buildup on the exhaust valves, the exhaust valves were binding in their motion (fixed with a good cleaning). I replaced rings as well, which were slightly worn, I can't find a spec but they were both around .025", where new should be about .015"... I doubt this was an operational issue.

No real time on the bike since the repair, but I'm sure we've got the oil consumption fixed. At the end of the day, for a reasonably skilled mechanic, this job should take about 4-5 hours if you are not drinking beer. An intake valve guide seal (59036027000) is $4.74, a head gasket (78030036000) $30.22, and a base gasket (78030035000) $5.08, so if your bike is drinking oil, you're probably less than $50 from fixing the problem, a few dollars more if you opt to replace rings as well.

I took pictures and handwritten notes to do a writeup on the procedure, but don't have time to post that right now. Suffice to say, it's not that bad and doesn't require any rocket surgery.

A few pics from the operation:



Cylinder head before:



After:



After we took the valves out, a buddy dropped the whole shebang in a parts washer for a few hours, this was the result.

Something is missing! I'm sure of it! I just can't figure out what...



It really does come out, but it takes just the right angle:



It'll be back to its old shenanigans in no time.

hmm... very interesting Ned.

When I had my 450 tested (leakdown) over the winter the guy helping (very knowledgeable) said it looked like my intake seals were needing to be replaced and I also suffer from a bit of oil lossage after a ride. This does seem to coincide with your findings as well. I have the seals in one of my parts boxes but as I have not been on my bike much this summer they are still in the parts box.

I'd love to see your notes and procedure when you get a chance to type them up.

Thanks for the update!

D
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Old 09-10-2010, 06:37 AM   #639
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Quote:
Originally Posted by osteo
hmm... very interesting Ned.
In retrospect, this could have been diagnosed without much disassembly. Take a good light and look closely inside your valve springs and you should be able to see if the lifted valve seal is your problem.
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Old 09-14-2010, 03:54 PM   #640
Country Doc
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I'm curious to know why you are sure you've solved the oil consumption problem with no time on the rebuild yet?

My '09 450EXC just started to drink oil at the 35 hour mark. I'll likely do the same repair you illustrate here, although there are some folks over at KTMtalk that feel the KTM rings in general are suspect, and are replacing the piston with an aftermarket unit that has a conventional 3-piece ring set.

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Old 09-14-2010, 04:03 PM   #641
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Country Doc
I'm curious to know why you are sure you've solved the oil consumption problem with no time on the rebuild yet?
Because it was a smoking gun, if you will- if the valve guide seal is not in place, the motor will consume oil, no ifs ands or buts.

I've got a few hours on it since and no consumption.
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Old 09-14-2010, 06:03 PM   #642
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Ok, sounds good, thanks for your feedback. I'll try the same thing and report back when I have some time on the motor also.

There are so many differing opinions out there that it's hard to sort it out. Sometimes it seems best just to try a fix (ideally a relatively cheap/easy one like you've outlined) and see what happens. Hopefully it solves the problem long-term. My motor was completely oil-tight until around 35 hours, when it started to obviously consume oil at a noticeable rate. I'd like to get more time out of the top end this time around.

dc
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Old 09-15-2010, 09:04 AM   #643
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Country Doc
Ok, sounds good, thanks for your feedback. I'll try the same thing and report back when I have some time on the motor also.
You should be able to see if the valve guide seals are in place without disassembling any further than for a valve clearance check. If they are not, well, there you go. If they are, then it's a more interesting question.
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Old 09-15-2010, 09:53 AM   #644
Yellow Pig
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Location: Kalifornia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewlat
I figured I'd post an updated pic of my bike, now that it has some farkles and miles on it.



Current mods/farkles:
Stealth de-smog
JD jet kit
FMF Factory 4.1 complete exhaust
EE soft, standard height seat
Sicass flush mount rear indicators
X2 dual sport halogen headlamp
Can you post a quick review and possibly some shots of the X2 dual sport halogen headlamp?

Thanks
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Old 09-16-2010, 03:56 AM   #645
andrewlat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yellow Pig
Can you post a quick review and possibly some shots of the X2 dual sport halogen headlamp?

Thanks
I'll try to get some shots tomorrow night.

Compared to the stocker, it's infinitely better. It's a useable light, whereas the stock headlamp seems to be nothing more than a DOT ornament.

On mine, both the high and low beam are pointed a bit low. The low beam can be adjusted to be a bit higher from where I have it, but the high beam has no adjustment (as far as I can tell). I can't compare it to the HID or regular halogen X2, but I'd imagine either of those would be a better off-road light than this one. It's DOT approved, though, so that's the primary reason I got it over the other two.

It doesn't require a stator upgrade, which is nice, but it still dims a bit when the bike is idling. That may or may not be solved with a new stator. It doesn't dim enough for me to be worried about it, though.

I wouldn't define the install as "plug and play", but it's not particularly difficult. It requires cutting some pieces off of the computer, rerouting a few wires, and bending the wiring harness. The instructions aren't as clear as I think they could be, but I'm no mechanic, and I still managed to do it.

I'd call it "bright enough". It'd be nice if it was brighter, but it's still a pretty decent light. I don't regret my purchase.
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