Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

[Chadx]

Originally Posted by Mr.Metal

Anyone have occasional stalling issues with a cold engine? Last night...I let it run a few seconds, then blipped the throttle... and the engine just died. It took about 3 seconds of cranking to get it to start again, but after that it ran fine.

Zero reason to blip the throttle, but I can see how it might cause the engine to die. The solution is to just let it idle while it warms up and don't touch the throttle. An FI bike will adjust the mixture precisely. Revving it, like we always had to do to get carbed bikes going and to make them idle, is not necessary and messes with our FI bike's little mind. Just fire it up and let it idle while you put on your helmet and gloves and ride ride away. I do that down to about 15 degrees F. On average, I'd say it idles for about 30 - 60 seconds before I leave while I gear up. (30 seconds in the summer and 60 in the winter).

On a somewhat related subject, some have mentioned an issue with stalling when pulling away when it's cold outside and on a bike that is not warmed up. Some thought it was the engine running rough because it was cold. I've never had that occur as a result of the engine stumbling because it's not warmed up, but only as result of the clutch plates being extremely grabby when it's cold outside (or the bike has sat for a while and not been ridden). When you start to let the clutch lever out to pull away, the plates don't slip as much as usual so the normal amount of throttle will not be sufficient to keep the bike from trying to stall since the plates grab all at once rather than gradually.

The solution is to either let the bike warm up a bit longer (unnecessary, but makes it act more normal) or just be aware of it and be prepared to give it a little more gas and/or feather the clutch should the clutch plates grab too quick and you start to stall. After a couple start/stops and/or a little warmup time, the plates act normal and the grabby pull away disappears. Just thought I'd mention it.

[Nice_Rumble]

Originally Posted by Chadx

Need some help. I bought a used Safari tank to get me through until IMS works up their 4+ gallon tank. The previous Safari tank owner is having trouble locating the relief valve baffle. Miamimotocyclist posted some great detailed images of the relief valve baffle in this post:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=7286

I've had the tank sitting here coming up on two weeks and have not been able to install it since I don't have a baffle in hand (which, presumably, directs the returned fuel to splash and cool the fuel pump). The previous owner is still looking for the baffle. I've also contacted JustGasTanks and they are seeing if they can source it from Aqualine. But I want to start exploring other options in case both of those fall through and I need to fabricate the piece.

In order to explore this, I need to know dimensions and what material to use. I can't see why this would be a big deal, but then, it might be critical for cooling the pump, so I don't want to wing it. If I have to go this route, I'll want to create a duplicate based on measurements. Anyone have a tank they have not installed yet and can take detailed measurements and pictures of the baffle? Recommendations on what type of material I should use since it will bein the gas tank and exposed to air most of the time (except when the tank is fairly full)? I assume it's made out of stainless steel? Thanks.

Your missed my installation by 3 days. I've had the relief valve baffle sitting in a bag for 6 months as I haven't needed the larger tank until now. It looks like thin wall aluminum with 2 holes in it for a tie wrap.

[OKDQ]

Originally Posted by GSBS

Knowing what I know now, I'd pay full price for the Mayer saddle - single biggest comfort improvement I've done to the WR-R!

Some have asked if the "arse wings" that protrude out interfere with off-road riding and for me they are actually a plus because if I'm standing going up a hill or something it gives me something to brace the back of my legs against for leverage. YRMV, but works for me.

And for long mileage comfort I think there is no substitute for square inches of under-the-arse real estate in a saddle. The open basketweave top also breathes very well.

GSBS, seems like I remember reading you have to send a seat pan to Mayer - is that right?

Has anyone priced a replacement seat to get a second pan? I don't want to completely give up my stock seat either.

[GSBS]

Originally Posted by OKDQ

GSBS, seems like I remember reading you have to send a seat pan to Mayer - is that right?

Has anyone priced a replacement seat to get a second pan? I don't want to completely give up my stock seat either.

you do have to send Mayer a seat pan to build the seat on.

[GsVs]

Hey ....

I'm looked at the on-line OEM part diagrams over and over but I can figure out which diagram has the following part ...

I'm looking for the white plastic loop that guides the top of the front brake line - it is mounted near the right side of the headlight ....

Which OEM diagram has this part ??

Thanks ! ....

[Mr.Metal]

That is very informative and makes sense. On my ride in to work, I thought about the stalling issue. I came to a somewhat similar conclusion, but also thought about the fact that my bike sat around for many days, untouched. Blipping the throttle that early on may have asked for more fuel than was available, so the engine stalled.

I was only blipping it check the tension of the cables, but there is no reason I couldn't wait 30 seconds for the engine to warm up. I always warm my bikes up at least a minute while I put the rest of my gear on, it just makes me feel better inside to know that the oil is flowing before I get on the throttle

Thanks for the info, Chadx. The cold morning clutch plate friction makes sense as well and would explain what I've been noticing. You're the man

Originally Posted by Chadx

Zero reason to blip the throttle, but I can see how it might cause the engine to die. The solution is to just let it idle while it warms up and don't touch the throttle. An FI bike will adjust the mixture precisely. Revving it, like we always had to do to get carbed bikes going and to make them idle, is not necessary and messes with our FI bike's little mind. Just fire it up and let it idle while you put on your helmet and gloves and ride ride away. I do that down to about 15 degrees F. On average, I'd say it idles for about 30 - 60 seconds before I leave while I gear up. (30 seconds in the summer and 60 in the winter).

On a somewhat related subject, some have mentioned an issue with stalling when pulling away when it's cold outside and on a bike that is not warmed up. Some thought it was the engine running rough because it was cold. I've never had that occur as a result of the engine stumbling because it's not warmed up, but only as result of the clutch plates being extremely grabby when it's cold outside (or the bike has sat for a while and not been ridden). When you start to let the clutch lever out to pull away, the plates don't slip as much as usual so the normal amount of throttle will not be sufficient to keep the bike from trying to stall since the plates grab all at once rather than gradually.

The solution is to either let the bike warm up a bit longer (unnecessary, but makes it act more normal) or just be aware of it and be prepared to give it a little more gas and/or feather the clutch should the clutch plates grab too quick and you start to stall. After a couple start/stops and/or a little warmup time, the plates act normal and the grabby pull away disappears. Just thought I'd mention it.

[Crawdaddy]

Heading out for a few rides in the next couple of weeks that will involve some DEEP stream crossings.......what do you guys/gals do to prepare besides carrying extra spark plugs?.......what do you do to prepare the bike besides applying liberal amounts of grease to seal the rim of the air filter, and liberal amounts of dielectric grease on all electrical components. Just curious......that's all I've ever done in the past with my KTMs and I've been fine........

[oldenuf]

Originally Posted by GsVs

Hey ....

I'm looked at the on-line OEM part diagrams over and over but I can figure out which diagram has the following part ...

I'm looking for the white plastic loop that guides the top of the front brake line - it is mounted near the right side of the headlight ....

Which OEM diagram has this part ??

Thanks ! ....

shown in "front fork"

Art

[GsVs]

Originally Posted by GsVs
Hey ....

I'm looked at the on-line OEM part diagrams over and over but I can figure out which diagram has the following part ...

I'm looking for the white plastic loop that guides the top of the front brake line - it is mounted near the right side of the headlight ....

Which OEM diagram has this part ??

Thanks ! ....


shown in "front fork"

Art

Originally Posted by oldenuf

shown in "front fork"

Art

Part #50 - Thanks

[malibu_dan]

Originally Posted by Crawdaddy

Heading out for a few rides in the next couple of weeks that will involve some DEEP stream crossings.......what do you guys/gals do to prepare besides carrying extra spark plugs?.

Make sure the bike is really clean, so she doesn't get the urge to jump in and wash herself mid-stream.

[notarat]

Originally Posted by Crawdaddy

Heading out for a few rides in the next couple of weeks that will involve some DEEP stream crossings.......what do you guys/gals do to prepare besides carrying extra spark plugs?.......what do you do to prepare the bike besides applying liberal amounts of grease to seal the rim of the air filter, and liberal amounts of dielectric grease on all electrical components. Just curious......that's all I've ever done in the past with my KTMs and I've been fine........

I just zip tie these all over the bike


They're blue, so they match the bike, and they have COOOOOKKKKIIIEEESSSS!!!!!


Seriously though, ensure you have some silicone spray on your connections to keep out water and, if you're worried about mud building up, you can always spray a bit of PAM cooking oil onto the bike. It's light enough to come off with any decent wash job, but will stick well enough to keep most of the mud off. (yeah...it actually works well)

Oh...and most importantly, never be the FIRST bike to take the crossing. let someone else go and see how deep the line is.

[Crawdaddy]

Originally Posted by notarat

.......Oh...and most importantly, never be the FIRST bike to take the crossing. let someone else go and see how deep the line is.

Right, I may not be the sharpest tool in the shed but even "I" know to let the young guns "show me what line to take (or not to take )

[kyns]

Originally Posted by Mr.Metal

Anyone have occasional stalling issues with a cold engine? Last night, I started the WRR up in preparation for this weekend's ride. It's been a little over a week since the engine last ran (sad, huh), but it started right up. I let it run a few seconds, then blipped the throttle... and the engine just died. It took about 3 seconds of cranking to get it to start again, but after that it ran fine.

I have a gutted airbox, stock filter, FMF programmer with HF's settings and a Q4. I've always been of the opinion that the WRR engine is cold blooded, but I just wanted to make sure this isn't way abnormal. My V-Strom never stalls, so this is new to me on an FI bike.

i have some jerkyness on mine when cold. Even if i let the bike idle 1 or 2 minutes before i take off, it still is a bit jerky in the couple of first junktions i take. Runs fine first, but when i give gas out of the junction it "thinks" a little. It only does it for couple of times. Warm, it runs ok. That said, if i had no junktions to take for the first couple of minutes of the ride, i propably didn't even no about the "problem".

[FNMAN]

Does Wolfman offer an immate discount?

Thanks,

[malibu_dan]

Anyone know what size Sweet Cheeks fit the stock seat best? Yes I can read the chart, but I'd rather hear it from someone using one on their WRR