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Old 07-16-2010, 12:40 AM   #15766
mcwbyu82
WRR'er
 
Joined: Mar 2010
Location: Utah Valley
Oddometer: 158
What I have been doing all night . . .

Well the other day I decided I would try my hand at the home brewed rear rack. I had and still plan on getting one of the aluminum options out there eventually but funds don't currently allow for it. I had every intention of going the cutting board route and had even happened upon a sale at Harbor Freight earlier in the week for $5 for a nice thick board. Wouldn't you know it, yesterday at work we are cleaning out some old stuff and I come across this piece of wood that was just too perfect not to try out. It is 12 layer plywood that was a part of a balance device used for rehab exercises. I personally have put Division 1 O-Linemen on this thing so I knew right away strength would not be an issue.
Some measuring, sawing, drilling, dremelling, routing(the one and only mistake)sanding, spraying and creativeness at Home Depot later and it was done.
The mistake in the router can be seen in the cutouts along the edges for bungees and tiedowns. Although I take responsibiltiy I must defend my skills and place most blame on my crappy $15 router from Harbor Freight which is underpowered and whose edge guide dooesn't know how to hold still. I should have just gone with the drill and saw method I used for the two long weight cutouts. Oh well, it functions fine and is just a temporary solution anyway.
The creativeness at home depot was a neccesity of the fact that my local HD and Lowes dont seem to be as well stocked as many others one here must be. Either store had only 4-6 aluminum spacers to choose from, none being longer than 1". The local Fastenal had no spacers whatsoever, which baffled me. Went back to HD and ended up using 2" x 1/4" inside diameter Galvanized plumbing "nipples". Hacked them down to about a quarter inch and they work great, just a tad heavier than aluminum I suppose but oh well.
I also was forced to settle for regular old hex bolts because the longest flat allen head available was too short. Will probably go back to Fastenal for some of those and switch them out eventually but these are holding fine for now.

All in all I am happy with how it turned out and it cost me a grand total of $8.35 (those stupid nipples are $1.50 a pop)







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Old 07-16-2010, 12:59 AM   #15767
Kjharn
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Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Bellevue, Nebraska
Oddometer: 1,140
Yesterday my rear turn signals were lit up constantly at night like they always were, and now they aren't. They still light up when I activate a signal, but are not on constantly anymore.

Before I look at it tomorrow, has anyone encountered this before? What's required to fix it?

I'm sure it's just a loose wire or something easy, but better safe than sorry.
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Old 07-16-2010, 05:31 AM   #15768
lukachuki
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Joined: Jun 2008
Location: Aiken, SC
Oddometer: 108
Someone might be interested in this '08 Bike FS

http://augusta.craigslist.org/mcy/1845584410.html
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Old 07-16-2010, 07:23 AM   #15769
SheWolf
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Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Vermin BC, Canada
Oddometer: 629
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kjharn
Yesterday my rear turn signals were lit up constantly at night like they always were, and now they aren't. They still light up when I activate a signal, but are not on constantly anymore.

Before I look at it tomorrow, has anyone encountered this before? What's required to fix it?

I'm sure it's just a loose wire or something easy, but better safe than sorry.
Did you get an aftermarket setup to have them stay on constantly, because they don't come stock like that...just the front ones do. If so, sounds like it's a loose wire.
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Old 07-16-2010, 09:24 AM   #15770
Chadx
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Bozeman, Montana
Oddometer: 2,165
Quote:
Originally Posted by SheWolf
Did you get an aftermarket setup to have them stay on constantly, because they don't come stock like that...just the front ones do. If so, sounds like it's a loose wire.
+1. Most factory street bike lights, including our WR250R, behave the same way. When the bike is running, the front turn signals are always on (like running lights) while the rear turn signals are not on and only come on when used as a turn signal. The way yours is behaving sounds normal to me and maybe you just hadn't noticed it or were thinking of how the front signals behaved.
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Old 07-16-2010, 09:25 AM   #15771
Chadx
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Bozeman, Montana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcwbyu82
Well the other day I decided I would try my hand at the home brewed rear rack.
Well done. Oh, and the router squiggles just add character!
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Old 07-16-2010, 09:55 AM   #15772
malibu_dan
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Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Middle Tennessee
Oddometer: 1,507
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcwbyu82
Well the other day I decided I would try my hand at the home brewed rear rack.
The effort will make any former KLR owners on here damnabbit proud!!! The only thing that would have been even better would have been if you got some of the parts from an army surplus store!

+1 for homebrewed
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Old 07-16-2010, 10:54 AM   #15773
mcwbyu82
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Location: Utah Valley
Oddometer: 158
Thanks guys. I had fun building it for sure. And now I see that my AIS kit from Krabill will be here today(I know I know, long overdue), so more wrenching tonight
I love this bike
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Old 07-16-2010, 03:31 PM   #15774
Machtig
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Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Monterey, CA
Oddometer: 369
Jet Hot coating

Anyone have their header and silencer Jet Hot coated? I just mailed mine off, going to go with their Xtreme Sterling coating, good to 1700F. I have the FMF Q4 and only sent the the base pipe, not the aluminum can or spark arrester. Should look very good. I'll be sure to post photos when I get it back next week. I figured with the big bore and all, might as well go whole hog while I'm at it
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Old 07-16-2010, 05:00 PM   #15775
Pax
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Joined: Jul 2006
Location: Columbia MO
Oddometer: 812
Counter-Sprocket Question

I'm trying to pull my front countersprocket from the bike in prep for my trip and have to get my bike done tomorrow (Idaho baby!).

For the life of me I can't figure how to get the countersprocket OFF the bike and feel like a complete goofball, but I'm having brainlock or something.

Help?

-Pax

p.s. I picked up a new chain slider. Old one was probably 1/2 worn...seemed like good preventative maintenance.
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Old 07-16-2010, 05:09 PM   #15776
dirthauler
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Pittstone, ya it's a Flintstones refference
Oddometer: 1,719
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pax
I'm trying to pull my front countersprocket from the bike in prep for my trip and have to get my bike done tomorrow (Idaho baby!).

For the life of me I can't figure how to get the countersprocket OFF the bike and feel like a complete goofball, but I'm having brainlock or something.

Help?

-Pax

p.s. I picked up a new chain slider. Old one was probably 1/2 worn...seemed like good preventative maintenance.

straight forward, three 8 mm bolts remove the gaurd, then i think it's a 27mm nut on the counter shaft, air helps here alot, but if not then a helper to hold the rear brake on hard, and in gear, then spin the nut off. the cog should just pull off by hand, or just a light tap on one edge should jar it loose. when installing, 69 ft. lbs. on the counter shaft nut, then use a punch to hammer the flange into the keyway
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Old 07-16-2010, 05:16 PM   #15777
Pax
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Joined: Jul 2006
Location: Columbia MO
Oddometer: 812
Ok, lemme go try. I don't have air, but I do have the other stuff... Of course, using the rear brake rather than the front will help...

I'll report back shortly.

-Pax

Quote:
Originally Posted by dirthauler
straight forward, three 8 mm bolts remove the gaurd, then i think it's a 27mm nut on the counter shaft, air helps here alot, but if not then a helper to hold the rear brake on hard, and in gear, then spin the nut off. the cog should just pull off by hand, or just a light tap on one edge should jar it loose. when installing, 69 ft. lbs. on the counter shaft nut, then use a punch to hammer the flange into the keyway
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Old 07-16-2010, 05:20 PM   #15778
dirthauler
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Location: Pittstone, ya it's a Flintstones refference
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pax
Ok, lemme go try. I don't have air, but I do have the other stuff... Of course, using the rear brake rather than the front will help...

I'll report back shortly.

-Pax
just was there myself just a couple of days ago. think 1 1/16" works close enough
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Old 07-16-2010, 06:51 PM   #15779
Pax
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Worked like a charm. Thanks brother.

Front counter-sprocket is 27mm. I have one in my toolkit for convenience. It came off no problem. Now to put on the new shoes!

-Pax

Quote:
Originally Posted by dirthauler
just was there myself just a couple of days ago. think 1 1/16" works close enough
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Old 07-16-2010, 07:06 PM   #15780
dirthauler
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Pittstone, ya it's a Flintstones refference
Oddometer: 1,719
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pax
Worked like a charm. Thanks brother.

Front counter-sprocket is 27mm. I have one in my toolkit for convenience. It came off no problem. Now to put on the new shoes!

-Pax
sweet! glad ya got it, now post pics!!
here's mine
i just love how huge this cog is

OMG! my bike is dirty and scratched up!! did'nt really see it till i was just now lookin at this pic!!

and a pic of the old 12 tooth on there just to compare
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dirthauler screwed with this post 07-16-2010 at 07:19 PM
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