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Old 07-17-2010, 10:36 AM   #15796
Reposado1800
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: 5th and Main
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teep
All I can say is a big THANKS. After my accident and the wife insisting I get rid of the bike it all came down to it not selling and my decision to give it to my son. This really didn't suit her, the boy will get hurt (he's 34). So she has decided that after all this I can keep the bike.

I just want to say thanks for no one buying it. Now my previous plans for a ride to Big Bend and even Alaska are back on the table. Plus I get to ride almost every day.

Garry
Well good for you! My wife didn't like bikes until I got a DL650 and we rode a bunch of vacations 2up. We did it safely so her worry has diminished significantly. It ups the confidence level.
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Old 07-17-2010, 11:36 AM   #15797
Chadx
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Location: Bozeman, Montana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HardWorkingDog
Motion Pro will make exactly what you want to your specs. Good company.http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/...tegory/cables/
Thanks, HWD. Looks like exactly what I need. I'm a big fan of Motion Pro parts, so no hesitation to source it from them. Thanks for the lead.
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Old 07-17-2010, 11:41 AM   #15798
dirthauler
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Location: Pittstone, ya it's a Flintstones refference
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HardWorkingDog
Motion Pro will make exactly what you want to your specs. Good company.

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/...tegory/cables/
ya chad, i'm in the same boat, clutch is kinda "funny when at extreme bar angles, was thinking another three or four inches myself, let me know how it goes, and i can follow in your foot steps, and i've never heared anything bad about motion pro
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Old 07-17-2010, 12:32 PM   #15799
mrider
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stock corbin

I didn't see any photos of the stock corbin seat yet. Here's a few comparison shots. Basically the corbin is a little lower (looks lower in the photo below than it really is), a little wider and flatter. So it's wider where you sit and foam is much more stiff. I have a corbin on my klr and they work great for me. Delivered in less than a week.

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Old 07-17-2010, 01:22 PM   #15800
SheWolf
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Location: Vermin BC, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clayjars
Don't do the 12 front. It will eat the swingarm. Go big on the back sprocket. The stock gearing is ridiculously tall like was mentioned already.
No it won't. I've had the 12 on mine for quite a while, no swingarm chew AT ALL. Chain tension is key here, not the sprocket.
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Old 07-17-2010, 02:15 PM   #15801
Krabill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SheWolf
No it won't . . . if your bike has been sprinkled with fairy dust first
Fixed
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Old 07-17-2010, 02:37 PM   #15802
SheWolf
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Say what you want. My bike's still got the 12, still got the ORIGINAL swingarm, and NO CHEW. Go back and smoke your fairy dusty. Oh and drink some of that unicorn milk that you keep hidden under the seat of your bike.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Krabill
OMG, I've been Fixed
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Old 07-17-2010, 02:39 PM   #15803
mcwbyu82
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So those of you who have had success with the 12T front sprocket and no rubbing problems what is the process/secret to the chain tension? I bought a 12T from RMATV a week after getting my bike but have never out it on. Think I will give it a try this weekend.
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Old 07-17-2010, 02:45 PM   #15804
SheWolf
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My process pretty much consists of checking the chain tension the way I have with any other bike I've had, that's always worked for me; I stick two fingers under the chain right where the slider ends and the chain guard starts. If it's too loose a fit, I tighten the chain...too tight and I loosen it. Your fingers may vary. Because mine's lowered, I haven't bothered with the one suggested in the manual. I always keep my chain on the tighter side of things rather than loose; that's when it starts to slap around and cause problems.
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Old 07-17-2010, 02:49 PM   #15805
Chadx
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Location: Bozeman, Montana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcwbyu82
So those of you who have had success with the 12T front sprocket and no rubbing problems what is the process/secret to the chain tension? I bought a 12T from RMATV a week after getting my bike but have never out it on. Think I will give it a try this weekend.
Honestly, I just keep it where it seems about right. When the bike is on the kickstand and I push up on the bottom of the chain, I can push it up a bit over 1/2". Once it gets over 3/4", I adjust the chain. Note that even when I stand the bike up, it's own weight make the butt sink (I have very low preload set) and checking it with it holding up it's own weight or with me, it is pretty tight. I'm due for a chain guide and have one laying here, but haven't swapped it yet. I have a total of 8,000 miles on the bike and about 3,000 of that was with the 12/43 combination. (I think I said 2,000 before, but he more I thought about it, I realized it was much longer than that because I didn't get my 13/48 installed until around 7,000 miles).

Am I running it too tight? I don't know. I guess we'll see if it causes any issues, but so far, so good. The stock 43 tooth was starting to wear at 7,000 miles when I swapped it, but I could have run it for a fair amount of time longer I think.

I think most people adjust the chain to about the right tension, but then wait too long for the next adjustment. Accelerated wear seems to occur during that "I'll get to it soon" period.

Chadx screwed with this post 07-17-2010 at 06:17 PM
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Old 07-17-2010, 03:14 PM   #15806
SheWolf
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Procrastination can be nasty. I got into the habit of checking chain and tires before I leave a long time ago. No different than doing a pre-trip on the truck before heading out into the bush for a load. Easier to catch things when you're not in a rush and take your time checking stuff.
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Old 07-17-2010, 06:17 PM   #15807
scottmac
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Thank's for the camparison pics of the stock and Sargent seats
Chad!

I liked the look of the Sargent when I saw it and seeing it paired
up against the stocker has not changed my mind.

Another one to add to the farckle bucket wish list....
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Old 07-17-2010, 07:57 PM   #15808
DugsGMS
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I used to run 12t on the front and had no problems with wear. I now run a 13 and a 48t rear so I can just change to a 12t or 14t front depending on the ride Im going on, though 99% of the time I stick w/ the 13.

Alot of people have alot of way to adjust chain tension but theres way too many varialbles involved in using a arbitrary measurement like 2 fingers or the like to get a accurate measurement. Everyones fingers are different. That being said, I will give what I feel is the absolute best way to adjust chain tension.

First of all put the bike on a stand. Next, remove the bolt that attatches the shock linkage pivot to the swing arm. Next put a floor jack under the rear tire and jack it up until the front sprocket nut, the swing arm pivot bolt and the axle nut are all lined up. That is the point where the the front and rear sprocket are the absolute farthest apart. Now adjust chain tensoin so there is just the slightest amount of slack. I usually set it so if I put my thumb under the chain and my index finger on top a couple of links away and squeeze theres just a little bit of give. At that point, using the adjusters make sure the rear wheel is straight. Dont trust the markings on the swing arm or the adjuster blocks, use a straight edge placed on the face of the rear sprocket and running down the length of the chain. Next, recheck chain tension and when youre satisfied, reassemble and tighten everything up.

Sounds like alot of work but you really only have to do it once, once the bike is all reassembled and tightened up, take the bike off the stand and feel how much slack is in the chain with the bike on its kick stand. All you need to do from then on is remember that or if you dont trust your memory measure it and from then on when ever you have to remove the rear wheel or adjust chain tension for any reason all you have to do is adjust tension to that spec with the bike on the kick stand and you have the perfect adjustment.

Hope that helps anyone thats real obsessive like me to be able to sleep well at night knowing that youre not doing damage to the bike while riding it.

Anyways, while Im posting here Id like to see if anyone whose fuel pump went out on them could give me their experience as I think mines on its way out. Lately my bike has been down on power, not terribly down but a noticeable amount. It feels fine at lower rpms and on big quick throttle openings but at high rpm WOT runs it feels like it runs out of steam on the top end. It doesnt fall on its face or anything but it just feels not as powerful as it once did. Also, once in a great while itll stumble or surge and once it got so bad thet it had almost no power, would stall at every stop and was real hard to start. When it did that I shut it off, let it sit for a few, restarted and it was fine and never happened again.

I really think its a fuel problem (lack of delivery volume)and was planning on getting a new pump when I change to my big tank but was hoping that someone whose died on them could give me some info on the symptoms they experienced before theirs died. Thanks in advance.
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Old 07-17-2010, 08:18 PM   #15809
nachtflug
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Location: Harrys place
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chadx
I think the recommendation to try the 12 tooth is a good one. You don't have to run it for thousands of miles (though I did with no damage). You can try it for a couple hundred miles and see if you like that gear ratio or want to go deeper. 12/43 is falls between 13/46 or 13/47. I ran 12/43 for over 2,000 miles and it helped me decide to go with 13/48 which has proven to be an all around great gear for me. This is all with a D606 on the back, though, so my 13/48 is closer to a 13/46 with standard height tire.

My wife's WRR has 13/52 and standard height rear tire and that is great on the trail, but I don't like it on the road. Above 60mph or so, it gets buzzy. That is fine for her, though, since she doesn't ride that bike on the road much and doesn't take that bike much over 65mph. The low gearing there definitely helps liven things up a bit plus she doesn't need to feather the clutch as much in the slow going. First is deep enough that it can pull through whatever within any clutchwork.

That being said, nachtflug, this will never be as peppy as a race 250 or 450, but then, you'll never have to do a valve check at 100 hours and an oil change after every ride, either. I've not modded mine for more power because I get a kick out of wringing it's neck all day long, but those that have done the exhaust, programmer, and airbox mods have really gained a good percentage of power without all the work and expense of a 290 kit. Still, you are pushing nearly 300lbs vs. 235lbs of some of the race 450 bikes. But I sure seem to be a lot fresher after 9 hours of aggressive trail riding compared to when I trail rode my CRF450R.

appreciated. on reflection, the rides I've been on were less than enjoyable as riding was second to dealing with the ridiculously ill suited power. the tease has been in fairly rocky stuff the suspension is a real joy to experience. they sure have come a long way since 1971 . Christ that bike is sweet for a "dual sport".

Is everyone going with GYTR sprockets or just ordering WRR stuff. I really want to try the bike with what sounds like a 13/48 combo and give it another chance. thanks for the input.
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Old 07-17-2010, 08:45 PM   #15810
MoBill
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I'm back to GYTR on the front...the Sidewinder didn't last 4500 miles. Not a big deal, BUT that wasn't what was talked about...on the rear, someone posted a steel one...didn't buy yet so forgot the name, link is around somewhere, want me to get it?

-Bill

Edit: From ramz: http://www.sprocketcenter.com/p/8570...---yamaha.html
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