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Old 07-17-2010, 07:45 PM   #15811
MoBill
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Joined: Mar 2007
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I'm back to GYTR on the front...the Sidewinder didn't last 4500 miles. Not a big deal, BUT that wasn't what was talked about...on the rear, someone posted a steel one...didn't buy yet so forgot the name, link is around somewhere, want me to get it?

-Bill

Edit: From ramz: http://www.sprocketcenter.com/p/8570...---yamaha.html
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Old 07-17-2010, 07:59 PM   #15812
dirthauler
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i can whole hartedly recomend renthal chain wheels and chain, that 14/52 combo i went with realy rocks! and talk about super light!?! the rear is ozs. Not lbs. And that's rotating unsprung weight, and what's that? something like 6lbs. to the hp? chassis weight wise, taking off 8 lbs. is just like adding 1 hp
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Old 07-17-2010, 08:05 PM   #15813
scottmac
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Joined: May 2008
Location: La Selva Beach, CA.
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13/46 for close to 10,000 miles now. With a Renthal 46 Rear. It's just now
starting to get some scallop visible in it.

Chain/sprocket life all depends on the care you put into it.

Yes, a gearing change will help. Getting rid of the EXUP and opening up
the airbox and adding a fuel programmer will help as well.

Let that baby breathe and you'll see a difference.
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Old 07-17-2010, 08:13 PM   #15814
MoBill
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Link to the rental stuff? I'll put it on the data thread.
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Old 07-18-2010, 12:12 AM   #15815
eakins
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Joined: May 2002
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoBill
Link to the rental stuff? I'll put it on the data thread.
you need to pm gadget boy and get your wr thread in his sticky
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=366046
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Old 07-18-2010, 01:37 AM   #15816
Mr. Fisherman
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140 miles of fun today....







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Old 07-18-2010, 05:51 AM   #15817
tremor38
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Location: Japan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SheWolf
No it won't. I've had the 12 on mine for quite a while, no swingarm chew AT ALL. Chain tension is key here, not the sprocket.
Your bike has also been lowered quite a bit. Don't you think your swingarm might be at a different angle than OEM, thus changing the whole 'swingarm chew' equation.

Also, how much do you weigh soaking wet, tiny one?!
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Old 07-18-2010, 05:55 AM   #15818
tremor38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcwbyu82
So those of you who have had success with the 12T front sprocket and no rubbing problems what is the process/secret to the chain tension? I bought a 12T from RMATV a week after getting my bike but have never out it on. Think I will give it a try this weekend.
As long as you have the bike lowered enough to flat foot with a 21" inseam, you should be good to go
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Old 07-18-2010, 06:00 AM   #15819
tremor38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DugsGMS
I used to run 12t on the front and had no problems with wear. I now run a 13 and a 48t rear so I can just change to a 12t or 14t front depending on the ride Im going on, though 99% of the time I stick w/ the 13.

Alot of people have alot of way to adjust chain tension but theres way too many varialbles involved in using a arbitrary measurement like 2 fingers or the like to get a accurate measurement. Everyones fingers are different. That being said, I will give what I feel is the absolute best way to adjust chain tension.

First of all put the bike on a stand. Next, remove the bolt that attatches the shock linkage pivot to the swing arm. Next put a floor jack under the rear tire and jack it up until the front sprocket nut, the swing arm pivot bolt and the axle nut are all lined up. That is the point where the the front and rear sprocket are the absolute farthest apart. Now adjust chain tensoin so there is just the slightest amount of slack. I usually set it so if I put my thumb under the chain and my index finger on top a couple of links away and squeeze theres just a little bit of give. At that point, using the adjusters make sure the rear wheel is straight. Dont trust the markings on the swing arm or the adjuster blocks, use a straight edge placed on the face of the rear sprocket and running down the length of the chain. Next, recheck chain tension and when youre satisfied, reassemble and tighten everything up.

Sounds like alot of work but you really only have to do it once, once the bike is all reassembled and tightened up, take the bike off the stand and feel how much slack is in the chain with the bike on its kick stand. All you need to do from then on is remember that or if you dont trust your memory measure it and from then on when ever you have to remove the rear wheel or adjust chain tension for any reason all you have to do is adjust tension to that spec with the bike on the kick stand and you have the perfect adjustment.

Hope that helps anyone thats real obsessive like me to be able to sleep well at night knowing that youre not doing damage to the bike while riding it.

Anyways, while Im posting here Id like to see if anyone whose fuel pump went out on them could give me their experience as I think mines on its way out. Lately my bike has been down on power, not terribly down but a noticeable amount. It feels fine at lower rpms and on big quick throttle openings but at high rpm WOT runs it feels like it runs out of steam on the top end. It doesnt fall on its face or anything but it just feels not as powerful as it once did. Also, once in a great while itll stumble or surge and once it got so bad thet it had almost no power, would stall at every stop and was real hard to start. When it did that I shut it off, let it sit for a few, restarted and it was fine and never happened again.

I really think its a fuel problem (lack of delivery volume)and was planning on getting a new pump when I change to my big tank but was hoping that someone whose died on them could give me some info on the symptoms they experienced before theirs died. Thanks in advance.
Could be the pump, but I'd pull it and check if there's any crap blocking the intake. Dunno if the WR has a filters on the pressure side, but that would also be worth if it does.
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Old 07-18-2010, 06:39 AM   #15820
SheWolf
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Sure mine's lowered. So are others' bikes, and others who haven't lowered it that run the 12t, don't have that problem. You don't have to have it lowered with a 21" inseam and flatfoot to get away from that. Keep the chain adjusted properly is key; dropped or stock height.
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Old 07-18-2010, 08:18 AM   #15821
Pax
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Oil filter O-ring

Those of you who have replaced the o-ringon the oil filter cover, are these standard size and can I pick them up at a local auto parts store? How about the copper crush washer for the oil plug? Sizes?

-Pax
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Old 07-18-2010, 09:01 AM   #15822
nachtflug
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I know this has been hashed over countless times but if anyone could chime in on.

1. stock gearing is?

2. general consensus that the stock WRR countershaft sprocket can cause the chain to jump is at this point generally considered legit?

3. assuming yes to #2 - WRF sprockets/gytr or aftermarket sprockets are the way to go?

4. I'd rather go bigger on the back and not go smaller on the front. with on road performance not being a major concern what is anyones best suggestions for gearing set ups front and rear. I'm not totally opposed to changing the front sprocket, and will even if I leave the same # of teeth as I've experienced the skipping/chain hopping.

thanks in advance.
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Old 07-18-2010, 09:33 AM   #15823
Crawdaddy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kyns
Yes, it might eat it, but he could quickly and cheaply try lower gearing with the 12 tooth. It's like ten bucks... Before selling it...?
+1
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Old 07-18-2010, 09:38 AM   #15824
Reposado1800
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The goofy shaped teeth on the stock 2008 rear sprocket is what causes the chain to jump when it is on the loose side. They are pyramid shaped.
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Old 07-18-2010, 09:47 AM   #15825
Krabill
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Location: Tulsa, OK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nachtflug
I know this has been hashed over countless times but if anyone could chime in on.

1. stock gearing is?

2. general consensus that the stock WRR countershaft sprocket can cause the chain to jump is at this point generally considered legit?

3. assuming yes to #2 - WRF sprockets/gytr or aftermarket sprockets are the way to go?

4. I'd rather go bigger on the back and not go smaller on the front. with on road performance not being a major concern what is anyones best suggestions for gearing set ups front and rear. I'm not totally opposed to changing the front sprocket, and will even if I leave the same # of teeth as I've experienced the skipping/chain hopping.

thanks in advance.
1. stock is 13/43

2. Something with the stock setup causes issues if there is too much slack. Not exactly sure what it is, but the problem goes away w/ aftermarket gear.

3. WRF & YZF sprockets both fit on the WRR. I'm using Primary drive gear from Rockymountainatv, but I've seen guys running every sort of sprocket you can imagine.

4. I'm running a 47T in the rear and I'm pretty close to the chain guide on the bottom. I'm not sure how much bigger you can go without an issue. I ride on the street quite a bit and use a 13T counter, but I rode a friend of mine's with a 12/47 setup and wow, if you're just going to set it up for off-road, that was one sweet setup.
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