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Old 07-18-2010, 09:50 AM   #15826
Krabill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirthauler
um,,
hello?? 52 tooth.
Well . . . I said I didn't know
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Old 07-18-2010, 09:52 AM   #15827
Crawdaddy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nachtflug
1. stock gearing is?
Crap
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Old 07-18-2010, 10:08 AM   #15828
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I'm willing to bet 100 Euros that the chain can not skip. I keep my chain looose, it slaps a lot if pulling with too low rpms, but CAN NOT skip. I calculated way back when the skipping thing was first discussed that you need to have OVER 4 inches between chain and swing arm, when bike on a side stand, behind the chain slider, on top of swing arm, (where many of you like to keep their fingers) to make it even possible to skip.

The chain CAN NOT hop just one tooth at a time. It has to jump half a SPROCKET at a time. Basic math, can't happen.

So any takers for 100 Euros??


Edit: Warning, if someone is willing to take the bet, that basically means you owe me 100 Euros...

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Old 07-18-2010, 10:10 AM   #15829
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nachtflug
I know this has been hashed over countless times but if anyone could chime in on.

1. stock gearing is?

2. general consensus that the stock WRR countershaft sprocket can cause the chain to jump is at this point generally considered legit?

3. assuming yes to #2 - WRF sprockets/gytr or aftermarket sprockets are the way to go?

4. I'd rather go bigger on the back and not go smaller on the front. with on road performance not being a major concern what is anyones best suggestions for gearing set ups front and rear. I'm not totally opposed to changing the front sprocket, and will even if I leave the same # of teeth as I've experienced the skipping/chain hopping.

thanks in advance.
I am by no means an expert on chains/sprockets (or anything mechanical), but here is my personal experience.

I first went with the 12/43 combo and that was much improved over stock, but I still wanted something a little deeper for trail riding. Plus I am of the opinion that the 12T counter can (but not necessarily) affect the wear at the swingarm pivot - especially in my case because I'm fat!.

I ended up going with 13/48 and I like it, but I have not ridden it on trails as much as I would like to really test it out. Besides being fat, I'm old (I use fat and old somewhat tongue in cheek) so my riding style is not "wring it's neck." I prefer to go a little slower and depend on throttle & torque. That being said, I believe the 13/48 combo fits the bill for me.

But, since a lot of my riding seems to be on back roads, not trails just due to where I live - I have recently put on a 14T (14/48) and that combo works great for road riding, and it's simple to swap back to the 13T for trails. I've toyed with the idea of putting the 12 on front with the 48 just to see what it's like, but I haven't done it yet.

If anyone is thinking of going to a 14T counter, be aware, I've got the VW Sandman case saver and my chain just barely rubs the case saver when running the 14T - I think I may be able to bend the case saver just enough to eliminate the rub - haven't tried yet though.
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Old 07-18-2010, 10:15 AM   #15830
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottmac
Getting rid of the EXUP and opening up
the airbox and adding a fuel programmer will help as well.

Let that baby breathe and you'll see a difference.
Since I'm not good at this mechanical stuff can anyone provide info re:

1. Will getting rid of the exup, opening the airbox and adding a fuel programmer help if I plan on keeping the stock exhaust system?

2. Will any of the above mods reduce low end power or torque? I am only interested in gaining at the low rpm end. Gains at higher rpm's are not what I'm looking for.

Thanks,

DQ
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Old 07-18-2010, 11:50 AM   #15831
dirthauler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OKDQ
If anyone is thinking of going to a 14T counter, be aware, I've got the VW Sandman case saver and my chain just barely rubs the case saver when running the 14T - I think I may be able to bend the case saver just enough to eliminate the rub - haven't tried yet though.
really? i'm running the renthal 14T and sandman's cs gaurd&case saver, and i can almost get my pinky in between the chain and the case saver. ain't that odd?
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Old 07-18-2010, 12:58 PM   #15832
Chadx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tremor38
As long as you have the bike lowered enough to flat foot with a 21" inseam, you should be good to go


...but just to clarify, the 8,000 miles (3,000 of it 12/43) was on my full height setup...and honestly, I don't know if lowering them makes chain guide/swingarm wear more likely, less likely, the same but in a different location or makes no difference at all.
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Old 07-18-2010, 01:04 PM   #15833
Chadx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nachtflug
I know this has been hashed over countless times but if anyone could chime in on.

1. stock gearing is?

2. general consensus that the stock WRR countershaft sprocket can cause the chain to jump is at this point generally considered legit?

3. assuming yes to #2 - WRF sprockets/gytr or aftermarket sprockets are the way to go?

4. I'd rather go bigger on the back and not go smaller on the front. with on road performance not being a major concern what is anyones best suggestions for gearing set ups front and rear. I'm not totally opposed to changing the front sprocket, and will even if I leave the same # of teeth as I've experienced the skipping/chain hopping.
thanks in advance.
Haven't gotten to others responses yet, but here are mine...

1. 13/43 on the R (13/42 on the X)

2. skipping is unlikely related to countershaft sprocket size. It mostly blamed on too loose of chain tension. I've never experienced it and most others have not either.

3. Any sprockets will do as long as it meets your requirements. I used steel because I wanted long wear and wasn't concerned with losing the equivalent of a .25 hp or whatever the equation works out to be. As for fit, the YZ and WR sprockets seem to fit, but by now, most manufactures and sellers have the appropriate database and labeling that you can order wrr/wrx sprockets and then don't have to guess. Oh, and don't run the D606 tire on the back since it's taller and you lose the equivalent of 2 or 3 teeth off the rear sprocket. Stick with stock rear tire height to keep the deepest ratio.

4. I run 13/48 and it's a happy medium for road work. Since you say you don't care about that, the 13/52 on my wife's wrr is great for offroad work and it will still run down the road at 75 mph, but anything over 60mph gets vibby.
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Old 07-18-2010, 01:11 PM   #15834
Chadx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirthauler
really? i'm running the renthal 14T and sandman's cs gaurd&case saver, and i can almost get my pinky in between the chain and the case saver. ain't that odd?
Note for OKDQ that you can loosen all the bolts a bit, then push the case guard towards the case and tighten as you hold it. That will buy you some space.

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Old 07-18-2010, 05:12 PM   #15835
GotMojo?
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I put a bit over 200 miles on my WRX today. Love this bike. So much damn fun its not even funny. I am debating on trading my Ninja 250R in and get a WRR to prepare for a ride on the TAT next summer. You just can't beat these bikes!
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Old 07-18-2010, 05:45 PM   #15836
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You could just get the R wheels and use your X. Quite a few guys are switching wheel sets to have an all around bike.
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Old 07-18-2010, 06:19 PM   #15837
GotMojo?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SheWolf
You could just get the R wheels and use your X. Quite a few guys are switching wheel sets to have an all around bike.
Naaa, I think I'd get a dedicated bike for doing the TAT. I wanna do track days and stuff on the WRX so its going to be setup for pavement, whereas the WRR would be mostly dirt with just a bit of street.
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Old 07-18-2010, 06:21 PM   #15838
scottmac
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoBill
Link to the rental stuff? I'll put it on the data thread.
http://www.renthal.com/File/fit_my_b...etype=Off Road

2007 WRF and YZF chainwheels will fit the WRR/X

You'll need to order a set of tapered head sprocket bolts
fro the WRF/YZF as well when you make the swap.

The WRR stock sprocket bolts have a flat head and need
to be replaced.
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Old 07-18-2010, 06:37 PM   #15839
emerson.biguns
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URGENT....


Bigdog and Dingweed are dead in the water on day two of their "Another Way Up" trip after hitting a monstrous thunder storm and some really nasty mud. Scott (Dingweed) toasted his clutch. (Not hard to believe since we really burnt them in last spring after the same thing happened.)

I'm rounding up parts to get them going again. Only thing he should need is a clutch pack, right? No basket or springs, etc? I'm pulling mine right now to send up to them tomorrow AM.

Thanks,

John



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Old 07-18-2010, 07:06 PM   #15840
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emerson.biguns
URGENT....


Bigdog and Dingweed are dead in the water on day two of their "Another Way Up" trip after hitting a monstrous thunder storm and some really nasty mud. Scott (Dingweed) toasted his clutch. (Not hard to believe since we really burnt them in last spring after the same thing happened.)

I'm rounding up parts to get them going again. Only thing he should need is a clutch pack, right? No basket or springs, etc? I'm pulling mine right now to send up to them tomorrow AM.

Thanks,

John



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Bummer! where are they at?
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