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Old 07-19-2010, 08:48 AM   #15856
Dysco
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krabill
Until you load up with camping gear and try to go down the highway into head wind and find out you need to keep stepping down into 5th gear to hold speed. Geared down a little it'll pull 6th gear at highway speed no problem.
I occasionally get down to 3rd on the highway. It redlines at ~69MPH. That's what the gearbox is for, right? I don't expect my truck to make it up all hills in 5th gear at 70MPH.
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Old 07-19-2010, 09:10 AM   #15857
Krabill
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My bike pulls 6th gear just fine with 13/47 and no need to keep downshifting.
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Old 07-19-2010, 09:15 AM   #15858
rydnseek
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dysco
For those reading this thread who haven't bought the bike yet, you may not need to replace the gearing first-thing. I got my bike in May with the stock gearing and enjoyed commuting, highway riding, and even dirt with the stock gearing. The most technical trails I got into were the open, rocky climbs common in Colorado on any 2-track or 4wd road. I had no problems with the stock gearing climbing or descending (I descend loose, steep slopes in 2nd gear). The only trouble I had with the stock gearing was above treeline (~11,000 feet) on loose, steep trail. I'll be changing my gearing now as my drive train wears out, but I was satisfied with the stock performance. I know the power delivery will improve with a different ratio, but there's no reason to freak out about the gearing immediately if you're not doing extremely tight, technical riding.

+1.. I've been with stock in a variety of conditions.. low is plenty low (coming from a drz!), & high is nice, too. When i get new chain/sprockets, i have no plans to vary much from stock.. i think it's a pretty good balance.

Pipe, exup, ais, airbox are much better mods, i think.
scotty
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Old 07-19-2010, 09:52 AM   #15859
simmons1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emerson.biguns
URGENT....


Bigdog and Dingweed are dead in the water on day two of their "Another Way Up" trip after hitting a monstrous thunder storm and some really nasty mud. Scott (Dingweed) toasted his clutch. (Not hard to believe since we really burnt them in last spring after the same thing happened.)

I'm rounding up parts to get them going again. Only thing he should need is a clutch pack, right? No basket or springs, etc? I'm pulling mine right now to send up to them tomorrow AM.
Looks like the clutch may be the Achilles heal of the WR:

http://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/ma...king-t2537.htm
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Old 07-19-2010, 10:04 AM   #15860
Crawdaddy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dysco
......you may not need to replace the gearing first-thing......
It's not about "need"........it's about dropping a mere ~$10-15 (the price of a 12T sprocket) to make the power band of a gutless bike a bit more enjoyable/fun.......at that price, why hesitate?.......at least that's my feeling.......my stock 13T has less than ~100 miles on it.......the bike has about ~3,500 on it now......the swing arm is fine......I don’t care about the wear on the rubber guide......that's why it's there........I'll switch out the rubber chain guide when I switch out the rear sprocket/chain unless I blow through the rubber guide sooner (and I don't belive that'll be the case)

I'll put the stock 13 back up front when my rear sprocket is toast.......then I'll bump up to 48 in the rear to match up with the 13 up front.....it's true, no one "needs" to do it.......but it's so easy/cheap I don't know why everyone doesn't just do it while wearing out the stock rear sprocket.....IMHO, the 12T swap up front is one of the easiest/cheapest/best "initial" mods
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Old 07-19-2010, 10:44 AM   #15861
Machtig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simmons1
Looks like the clutch may be the Achilles heal of the WR:

http://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/ma...king-t2537.htm
I have a feeling that the above account, and the one in this thread, are due to operator error.

In my experience, you would have to really, really abuse the clutch to wipe it out so quickly. During my testing with the Revloc dyna ring, I slipped my clutch pack numerous times, and its still going strong. If you continually slip the clutch in mud, rocks whatever, with the engine WOT, yeah, you will destroy it in short order. Slipping it occasionally, for short periods, and it will likely be fine
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Old 07-19-2010, 10:47 AM   #15862
HardWorkingDog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simmons1
Looks like the clutch may be the Achilles heal of the WR:

http://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/ma...king-t2537.htm
This is a joke, right--ha ha

One report on the wrr forum, and now one here, and it's an "achilles heel?"

Clutches wear out...
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Old 07-19-2010, 10:57 AM   #15863
Reposado1800
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Mud and deep sand kill clutches. MX 125cc bikes change clutch packs for every race!
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Old 07-19-2010, 11:00 AM   #15864
HardWorkingDog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clayjars
Mud and deep sand kill clutches. MX 125cc bikes change clutch packs for every race!
Yup. And as we both own XT225's we KNOW what an achilles heel is like

(not talkin' 'bout clutches, neither)
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Old 07-19-2010, 11:03 AM   #15865
Krabill
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When I'm in the nasty, tight, rocky stuff I ride my bike the same way I ride a trials bike. Constantly slipping the clutch to keep/maintain traction at all times. 12k+ miles so far and no issues.
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Old 07-19-2010, 12:46 PM   #15866
emerson.biguns
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Just got a phone call. They'll be moving by the time I post this.

My parts looked good that I pulled last night for Scott. He said his were all black from yesterday's ordeal.

It's probably a case of some pretty good abuse. Here's last year's trip that Scott used as likeness of what they saw yesterday:




Thanks again for the offers to help, I'll let you know if they need it.

John
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Old 07-19-2010, 01:00 PM   #15867
Dysco
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Machtig
I have a feeling that the above account, and the one in this thread, are due to operator error.

In my experience, you would have to really, really abuse the clutch to wipe it out so quickly. During my testing with the Revloc dyna ring, I slipped my clutch pack numerous times, and its still going strong. If you continually slip the clutch in mud, rocks whatever, with the engine WOT, yeah, you will destroy it in short order. Slipping it occasionally, for short periods, and it will likely be fine


I lost a bunch of clutch in this pit due to my C/S cover packing with mud- enough to stop the chain. I did the old rev-n-dump until I could get in a good spot to work on it. Otherwise it wore nicely with normal clutch-slipping to accelerate/raise revs on the trail.
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Old 07-19-2010, 01:21 PM   #15868
scottmac
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If they were fighting through heavy, wet clay I can see a clutch getting
fried quick.

There are some clay spots out at the Hollister Hills SRVA where I've
seen CR 500's pack up so much clay they can't even spin a back tire.
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Old 07-19-2010, 02:00 PM   #15869
Lion BR
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Hey guys,

Just started a thread on "ride reports" of a five-day dirt journey with my wr250r in Oregon

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=601595

Later
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Old 07-19-2010, 03:02 PM   #15870
Machtig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottmac
If they were fighting through heavy, wet clay I can see a clutch getting
fried quick. .
If you are slipping it intentionally, in mud, I personally, dont see the point. I generally choose a lower gear and pin it

If it is slipping with your hand off the clutch lever, that is a different issue, and quite likely not your fault.

Quote:
Originally Posted by scottmac
There are some clay spots out at the Hollister Hills SRVA where I've
seen CR 500's pack up so much clay they can't even spin a back tire.
If this happens, you definitely need to stop slipping the clutch and clean out the wheel well or whatever until you can move again.

Common sense does apply.
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