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Old 08-22-2010, 09:10 AM   #16576
OKDQ
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I just lowered the seat height using the adjustment available in the rear shock stud - I lowered is as much as possible. My question: Will this affect the overall geometry enough that I will need to lower the front forks?
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Old 08-22-2010, 09:42 AM   #16577
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OKDQ
I just lowered the seat height using the adjustment available in the rear shock stud - I lowered is as much as possible. My question: Will this affect the overall geometry enough that I will need to lower the front forks?
Try it as is & if you find it doesn't turn as well as you like then raise them a little.
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Old 08-22-2010, 10:34 AM   #16578
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Alright . . . on to the fuel pump . . .

Here's the new one as it arrived.



The first step is to empty the tank. A few minutes with a siphon hose and we're ready to go.



For those who haven't seen it, this is is what the fuel pump looks like when it's installed.



There really isn't much to it. Just remove the allen head bolts and it drops right out.

Here is the old one next to the new one.









I re-used the stock o-ring and haven't had an issue yet. Putting it all back together is just as easy as taking it apart. Put back together it fired right up and has been running great ever since




Now . . . somebody asked if I'd take my old one apart to see if maybe we could just carry the tiny little electric pump as a back-up and field strip it instead of having to try and pack a whole extra fuel pump assembly.

Short answer = NO

Well . . . maybe, but it isn't really meant to come apart after initial assembly.

Let me explain . . .

First - some shots around the old pump







A shot of the electrical connections.



These pop off without issue.



Then I unhooked the low fuel sensor.



The whole low fuel sensor assembly comes right off. Makes working on it easier with that out of the way. Now comes the hard part and the reason why I don't think this would be a good idea in the field . . . this thing isn't meant to come apart. Yes, there are just little clips that hold the "cage" on, but the clips don't push in and you really have to force the outer part out in order to unhook them. I wound up cracking it in a few places forcing it open.



Once forced open however, the fuel pump itself slides right out.





There is a little o-ring that goes around the top. Don't lose it.

Here's the actual part number to end all the confusion as to whether or not we share a fuel pump with the Zuma guys . . .



Fuel filter connection. This won't want to come off without the possibility of some damage, either. I tried prying on it a little bit, but since I was getting really close to breaking something I gave up.



Just for the hell of it, I disassembled the top part. I'll be honest and say I have no idea what this does . . . but here's how you take it apart. This came apart and went back together in a snap. No problems.



More o-rings you don't want to loose.



Tiny o-ring inside



After the helluva time I had trying to disassemble the pump in the first place, it becomes quite clear that it was designed to be put together, not taken apart. It all went back together in a matter of seconds.



Anyway . . . to sum up . . . it's a royal pita to take it apart and you'll most likely wind up cracking something in the process.

Hope that helps.
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Old 08-22-2010, 10:46 AM   #16579
Mr. Fisherman
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Great write up Krabill .
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Old 08-22-2010, 10:53 AM   #16580
Nice_Rumble
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I assume the pumps are the same even though all numbers match except the last 4 digits on the second line?
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Old 08-22-2010, 10:57 AM   #16581
Krabill
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I'm assuming the top number is the part number and the bottom number is the serial number for that particular pump. Don't know for sure, but that's my guess.
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Old 08-22-2010, 10:57 AM   #16582
Nice_Rumble
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OKDQ
I just lowered the seat height using the adjustment available in the rear shock stud - I lowered is as much as possible. My question: Will this affect the overall geometry enough that I will need to lower the front forks?
Assuming you wanted to lower the bike by using the ride height adjuster raising the forks will further help in that regard. Quoting from Yamlink, just remember changes to rake/trail (the forks) do not need to be on a 1:1 ratio with the rear because geometry is affected at a different rate. In addition, 18mm (3/4") is the most I'd raise the forks due to the possibility of fender/wheel contact at full bottoming.
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Old 08-22-2010, 11:21 AM   #16583
ronvan
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FMF Programmer Normal LED

I just installed the FMF Programmer and it seems to be working, but I wanted to confirm that after starting the bike, and all the LEDs scroll across, the number 1 LED slowly flashes.

I assume the number one LED flashing indicates the unit is operating normal? I can enter the programming mode and change things, so it appears to be working.

The instructions are a bit vague on this.

Thanks!
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Old 08-22-2010, 11:24 AM   #16584
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OKDQ
I just lowered the seat height using the adjustment available in the rear shock stud - I lowered is as much as possible. My question: Will this affect the overall geometry enough that I will need to lower the front forks?
With my rear set to full height (as it comes from the factory) I felt the bike was very twitchy above 60 MPH, especially in cross winds. The front end also tended to kick sideways too easilly when the side of the tire hit 2 to 4 inch rocks. Both problems were cured when I adjusted the rear to the lowest position.

YMMV.
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Old 08-22-2010, 11:30 AM   #16585
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Fisherman
Great write up Krabill .
+1

Most modern assemblies are not like lego blocks - they are designed to go together quickly and tightly, and never be disassembled.
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Old 08-22-2010, 11:49 AM   #16586
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Couple of clips from this morning...

Damn, ridin' this little bike is so much fun!

A quick, fun gravel road:


Crossing the Locust Fork River:
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Old 08-22-2010, 12:20 PM   #16587
OKDQ
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Thanks for replies. I'm going to take AZ Tom's advice and ride it for a while with the front forks in the current position (flush with the top of the clamp).

Quote:
Originally Posted by BluePill
With my rear set to full height (as it comes from the factory) I felt the bike was very twitchy above 60 MPH, especially in cross winds. The front end also tended to kick sideways too easilly when the side of the tire hit 2 to 4 inch rocks. Both problems were cured when I adjusted the rear to the lowest position.

YMMV.
BluePill - How are your front forks currently set?
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Old 08-22-2010, 12:23 PM   #16588
mcwbyu82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OKDQ
Thanks for replies. I'm going to take AZ Tom's advice and ride it for a while with the front forks in the current position (flush with the top of the clamp).



BluePill - How are your front forks currently set?
I lowered my rear all the way and left the front alone and love it.
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Old 08-22-2010, 01:41 PM   #16589
Bake
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Great information, Krabil, on the fuel pumps. Good for Yamaha with updating, whatever you want to call it, the assembly and also selling them!
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Old 08-22-2010, 01:45 PM   #16590
Bake
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rydnseek
Best i've done is 93 gps.. wot down hill straightaway. 13/42. usual performance mods. That was with travel gear & windscreen. I think if i lightened up a bit & maybe had a bit of tail wind, it would do it.
That's 6 mph faster than I was ever able to get my KLX250 to go, and it's running the 351 kit. It's been detailed out before elsewhere, the KLX351 doesn't have the porting (of the stock 250 head) to be able to breathe at really high revs like the WR can. The KLX351 is a tractor motor, and to get maximum hp (about 27) you don't rev the bike past 6500 rpm. It really does have a massive amount of torque, for a small engine at 3000 rpm and up.
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