Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

[TierHawg]

Popeye approves

[arkridergc]

I rode some really rocky terrain this weekend and the bike handled it all just fine except for the abrupt off/on throttle response at rock crawl speed. It made it very hard to smoothly get through the knarly stuff. I kept winding up in 2nd gear and just trying to keep a little more speed rather than deal with the water faucet style throttle response. Anybody else having this problem or have a cure?



Apostle2


Ride report
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=933

Gary

[Nice_Rumble]

Originally Posted by arkridergc

abrupt off/on throttle response at rock crawl speed. Anybody else having this problem or have a cure?

Try taking any slack out of your throttle cable.

[GotMojo?]

Originally Posted by arkridergc

I rode some really rocky terrain this weekend and the bike handled it all just fine except for the abrupt off/on throttle response at rock crawl speed. It made it very hard to smoothly get through the knarly stuff. I kept winding up in 2nd gear and just trying to keep a little more speed rather than deal with the water faucet style throttle response. Anybody else having this problem or have a cure?

Gary

My X has been like this since day 1.... very tough to ride at slow speeds because of the abrupt on/off of the throttle. My Ninja 250R, by comparison, is very smooth and easy to ride at slow speeds. I just thought this was the way the WR was and probably because of the FI or something.

[vwsandman]

I found three things that when combined pretty much eliminated any throttle snatch:

1) Fuel programmer, in my case a Power comander 3
2) G2 ergonomics throttle sleeve with the 400 cam (throttle tamer)
3) 47T rear sprocket.

I can pretty much stand on the pegs in rough terrain in first gear and tractor around at will now...

[GotMojo?]

Originally Posted by vwsandman

I found three things that when combined pretty much eliminated any throttle snatch:

1) Fuel programmer, in my case a Power comander 3
2) G2 ergonomics throttle sleeve with the 400 cam (throttle tamer)
3) 47T rear sprocket.

I can pretty much stand on the pegs in rough terrain in first gear and tractor around at will now...

Good info, thanks. I was hoping some mods would solve this "problem". The jerkiness of the throttle really is annoying at slow speeds. I'm hoping to do an exhaust, fuel programmer, and filter here shortly. Some seem to report that that will make the bike ride smoother.

[greer]

Originally Posted by Nice_Rumble

Try taking any slack out of your throttle cable.

+ a gazillion. Also check for excessive drive chain slop.

Sarah

[Krabill]

All of the above, and practice slipping the clutch on top of all the adjustments. If you can learn how to properly use the clutch, you can completely eliminate the snatchiness.

[GotMojo?]

Originally Posted by greer

+ a gazillion. Also check for excessive drive chain slop.

Sarah

Speaking of which, could somebody post a pic of what the correct drive train slop looks like? My owners manual says one thing, but then I saw a PDF file posted on another site that suggested pushing the bottom part of the chain towards the bottom of the swingarm and making sure that there is 8-13mm gap.

So, I keep wondering what is the correct method?

[Reposado1800]

You want to run with the PDF bulletin on a stock 08 with the rubber ring sprocket.

[GotMojo?]

Originally Posted by Clayjars

You want to run with the PDF bulletin on a stock 08 with the rubber ring sprocket.

What about stock 2009 and 2010 bikes?

[Attico]

I sdon't have a pic, but i tend to run a little looser than too tight. Just check the wear on the swingarm guide for wear. If you keep you chain lubed and kink free, and run it a little looser for safety, you should have any issues. Just remember a little loose, not tons of slack. My way of checking is to bounce while sitting on the bike and make sure there is slack when the swingarm is parallel to the ground, which is the "longest" part of the swing. Not sure if that makes sense to you...

Originally Posted by GotMojo?

Speaking of which, could somebody post a pic of what the correct drive train slop looks like? My owners manual says one thing, but then I saw a PDF file posted on another site that suggested pushing the bottom part of the chain towards the bottom of the swingarm and making sure that there is 8-13mm gap.

So, I keep wondering what is the correct method?

[AZ TOM]

Originally Posted by GotMojo?

My X has been like this since day 1.... very tough to ride at slow speeds because of the abrupt on/off of the throttle. My Ninja 250R, by comparison, is very smooth and easy to ride at slow speeds. I just thought this was the way the WR was and probably because of the FI or something.

Gearing??

[GotMojo?]

Originally Posted by AZ TOM

Gearing??

My '09 X has stock gearing. And I'm wondering if the chain on an X can be a bit tighter because on the street you're not really encountering a lot of rough terrain where the rear suspension is compressing. Would that be the case?

[malloy]

Whew - Just finished the entire thread. Took about too much time and very informative. You guys are amazing, helpful, courteous and mostly respectful of others here unlike a few other places on ADV. A lot of good information here. Thanks for sharing .

Anyway, a comment. So often the fuel pump issue seems to come up in high ambient temperature conditions. It's just too damn hot in the tank. Well that little motor sitting under the tank ain't exactly cool. So has anyone thought of using some heat barrier to line the underside of the tank? Such as http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...p?Product=1828 ?
Maybe it would help keep the tank cooler. I've seen similar OEM on other bikes but didn't notice it here, OEM or Safari.