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Old 08-24-2010, 03:36 PM   #16621
Pax
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Joined: Jul 2006
Location: Columbia MO
Oddometer: 812
Malloy, (and Krab)

I tend to agree that the issue on the fuel pump is directly proportional to the stress on the little motor coupled with temperature.

The stock tank has a small amount of heat shielding on it, but not what I'd call an insulative barrier. I've switched to the larger Safari and haven't experienced problems yet. A friend I was riding with recently lost his in the Idaho wilderness under stressful riding in dense forest that limited air movement. He was using a stock tank.

My take on this is that the little pump is kind of puny and not built to tolerate some of the conditions we are throwing at it. The idea of lining the tanks may have merit and I'll consider doing something like this. Long-term, however, I don't know if they will ultimately solve the issue of the build quality of the component that is failing.

I keep saying to my pals (and getting weird looks when I do), that an aftermarket pump or a different solution altogether is needed to solve the flakiness of these. In the meantime, I'll carry a spare with me which is a bummer, but the switch is so fast/easy there isn't a reason to shy away just based upon the labor.

-Pax



Quote:
Originally Posted by malloy
Whew - Just finished the entire thread. Took about too much time and very informative. You guys are amazing, helpful, courteous and mostly respectful of others here unlike a few other places on ADV. A lot of good information here. Thanks for sharing .

Anyway, a comment. So often the fuel pump issue seems to come up in high ambient temperature conditions. It's just too damn hot in the tank. Well that little motor sitting under the tank ain't exactly cool. So has anyone thought of using some heat barrier to line the underside of the tank? Such as http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...p?Product=1828 ?
Maybe it would help keep the tank cooler. I've seen similar OEM on other bikes but didn't notice it here, OEM or Safari.
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Old 08-24-2010, 04:01 PM   #16622
bhmax
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Location: East TN
Oddometer: 34
As I mentioned earlier, had my pump in my stock tank 08 refuse to prime/start when the temps were 95F. Was hoping to ride it today. Highs forecast 85F or so. Fuel pump sounded strong when I first powered on. Had no problems for 10mi or so. Stopped for about 2min at a gas station we found out was closed. A couple of miles later the bike started hesitating, so I pulled over and the engine quit. Was able to get it started again to make it home. The tank was about 1/4 full/.5 gal left. New pump is still on the way from servicehonda.com. Yep, they charged me more than shown on the site when typing in the part number directly. $233 shipped. Hope it will be here soon. I was able to catch up with my friends on my Futura, but it's not as fun on the really tight roads.
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Old 08-24-2010, 06:17 PM   #16623
Roam
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Location: NoVA
Oddometer: 1,049
I finished my TAT and back ride yesterday. ~10k miles in 5 weeks about half of that in the dirt. Other than not replacing my chain and sprockets when I should have and having a possible fuel pump hiccup the bike and ride were great.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=600760
or
http://twowheelsgood.net/tat2010/

Now it's time to give the bike a real good cleaning an lubing.

BTW, no one at the Victory Motorcycle Rally gave ma a hard time for showing up on my dual sport.
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Old 08-24-2010, 06:29 PM   #16624
Kjharn
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Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Bellevue, Nebraska
Oddometer: 1,140
Hey guys,

I've got a problem that's stumping me. A few days ago after changing the angle of my Protaper handlebars, I noticed that if I had the bike running and turned the handlebars all the way to the left, the engine would cut out and would not turn on again until I turned the bars back to the right. I didn't have time to fiddle with it, so I rode to work with it like that. Then today, I wanted to figure out the problem. I noticed that the cable coming from the red engine run/kill switch was out of the black cradle and getting pinched when the bars turned all the way to the left. I put it back in the cradle and it no longer stretches when I turned to the left. Now, however, it doesn't turn on barely ever. If I turn the handlebars side to side, I get a clicking sound (like a switch turning on and off) from the rear of the bike... It's coming from around the battery, or one of those housings around the battery. Sometimes when I do this the exup engine spins (took the cover off and removed the cables since I have full FMF exhaust), and sometimes the fuel pump primes and I can fire the bike, but it turns off when I pull the clutch in sometimes, or also when I turn the handlebars to the left... Makes no sense to me.

For reference, these are the mods I've done to my bike:

FMF Powercore Exhaust
FMF Megabomb Header
FMF Fuel Programmer

Anyone?
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Old 08-24-2010, 06:37 PM   #16625
arkridergc
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Pottsville, AR
Oddometer: 295
Sandman,
This G2 throttle tamer you speak of...Does it come as a particular p/n for the WRR or did you use one for another bike that just happens to work on our bikes?

I just put a 47T sprocket on and I'm running an FMF programmer with a Q4 pipe. I think my settings are the ones HighFive listed on he and Krabill's forum. Don't remember if I have changed them from those settings or not but the bike seems to run ok everywhere else except for extended WOT down the freeway where it brought in the High Temp light this past June. It might need a tick more enrichment at WOT.

Cable slack...Is this adjusted under the tank or at the grip?
Thanks
Gary
Quote:
Originally Posted by vwsandman
I found three things that when combined pretty much eliminated any throttle snatch:

1) Fuel programmer, in my case a Power comander 3
2) G2 ergonomics throttle sleeve with the 400 cam (throttle tamer)
3) 47T rear sprocket.

I can pretty much stand on the pegs in rough terrain in first gear and tractor around at will now...
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Old 08-24-2010, 07:10 PM   #16626
Kjharn
Hrmph?
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Bellevue, Nebraska
Oddometer: 1,140
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kjharn
Hey guys,

I've got a problem that's stumping me. A few days ago after changing the angle of my Protaper handlebars, I noticed that if I had the bike running and turned the handlebars all the way to the left, the engine would cut out and would not turn on again until I turned the bars back to the right. I didn't have time to fiddle with it, so I rode to work with it like that. Then today, I wanted to figure out the problem. I noticed that the cable coming from the red engine run/kill switch was out of the black cradle and getting pinched when the bars turned all the way to the left. I put it back in the cradle and it no longer stretches when I turned to the left. Now, however, it doesn't turn on barely ever. If I turn the handlebars side to side, I get a clicking sound (like a switch turning on and off) from the rear of the bike... It's coming from around the battery, or one of those housings around the battery. Sometimes when I do this the exup engine spins (took the cover off and removed the cables since I have full FMF exhaust), and sometimes the fuel pump primes and I can fire the bike, but it turns off when I pull the clutch in sometimes, or also when I turn the handlebars to the left... Makes no sense to me.

For reference, these are the mods I've done to my bike:

FMF Powercore Exhaust
FMF Megabomb Header
FMF Fuel Programmer

Anyone?
Update:

Figured out what the problem is. It is the red on/off switch cable. If I put my fingers around the cable where it runs by the steering head along the frame and pull towards the back of the bike, it starts effortlessly. While its running, if I pull towards the FRONT of the bike, it dies immediately. I tried relocating my handguard, tried zip tieing the cable to keep it slack, but it still dies if I turn the handlebars to the left.

I'm thinking that wherever this cable plugs into is probably loose, so when it tightens up it pulls out of the socket, then connects again when I have the bars centered. Anyone know where this cable runs? I can follow it to a housing by the fuel tank, then I lose it.

Thanks!
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Old 08-24-2010, 07:26 PM   #16627
Chadx
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Bozeman, Montana
Oddometer: 2,165
Quote:
Originally Posted by GotMojo?
What about stock 2009 and 2010 bikes?
The '09 and '10 owner's manuals should have the correct (latest) chain tightening procedure. The '08 manual has the incorrect procedure which was updated with a service bulletin (and is floating around in PDF format).
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Old 08-24-2010, 07:31 PM   #16628
BigBird-
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I've found a 100% fix to the abrupt off idle throttle response!














REVLOC
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Old 08-24-2010, 09:11 PM   #16629
BluePill
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Location: "God's waiting room" (Florida)
Oddometer: 4,671
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kjharn
Update:

Anyone know where this cable runs? I can follow it to a housing by the fuel tank, then I lose it.

Thanks!
Handlebar switch cables (both sides) go to connectors inside of soft plastic weather boots by the frame. Remove the fuel tank and carefully roll the boots back to expose the connections.
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Old 08-24-2010, 09:46 PM   #16630
Machtig
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Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Monterey, CA
Oddometer: 369
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBird-
I've found a 100% fix to the abrupt off idle throttle response!
REVLOC
Ain't that the truth.
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Old 08-25-2010, 05:36 AM   #16631
vwsandman
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Location: Racine, WI
Oddometer: 260
Thumb

Quote:
Originally Posted by arkridergc
Sandman,
This G2 throttle tamer you speak of...Does it come as a particular p/n for the WRR or did you use one for another bike that just happens to work on our bikes?

I just put a 47T sprocket on and I'm running an FMF programmer with a Q4 pipe. I think my settings are the ones HighFive listed on he and Krabill's forum. Don't remember if I have changed them from those settings or not but the bike seems to run ok everywhere else except for extended WOT down the freeway where it brought in the High Temp light this past June. It might need a tick more enrichment at WOT.

Cable slack...Is this adjusted under the tank or at the grip?
Thanks
Gary
It looks like G2 has still not updated the web site, best thing to do is send them an email or call them to place your order and specify the one for the 08-10 WR250R/X, I got the throttle tamer, but you can also get the one that comes with the three different cams, a normal cam, and two other cams, I believe the "tamer" comes with the "400" cam, another added bonus is the teflon bushings inside the aluminum throttle sleeve with make for a super smooth throttle as well. I spray a little teflon dry lube on as well, very smooth!
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Old 08-25-2010, 06:41 AM   #16632
ducnek
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Location: Rooster Poot Tennessee
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Thread. From. Hell.


This may have been discussed, but I couldn't find it.

I am finally in need of some new tires. I have used the 606R/MT21F combo on most bikes in the past. I am looking at using the Continental TKC80s on my WR250R. The Continental size I found that is close to the stockers is

Rear: 120/90/18
Front: 90/90/21

The stockers are
Rear: 120/80/18
Front: 80/100/21

Has anyone used these and will they fit without issue?

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Old 08-25-2010, 08:29 AM   #16633
malibu_dan
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Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Middle Tennessee
Oddometer: 1,498
Quote:
Originally Posted by hughtwg
I finished my TAT and back ride yesterday. ~10k miles in 5 weeks about half of that in the dirt. Other than not replacing my chain and sprockets when I should have and having a possible fuel pump hiccup the bike and ride were great.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=600760
Epic, Hugh! Subscribed!
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Old 08-25-2010, 08:46 AM   #16634
mtntrails
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Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Mount Airy, MD
Oddometer: 427
ducnek - I'm running TKC-80s on my WRR - about 2k miles on them so far - seem to be wearing very well. On a smaller bike, they will easily go 5k - 6k miles if you maintain appropriate tire pressures. I have run TKCs on many bikes over the years and find them to be an excellent choice for 50-50 riding - great street tire - pretty good off-road. The rear is taller and does change the gearing. The front is also noticeably taller, but it generally feels more planted & stable than the oem front.

If your riding is more off-road oriented, D606s would probably be a better choice. They are even taller than the TKCs.
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Old 08-25-2010, 09:08 AM   #16635
Attico
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Location: Ottawa, Ontario
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Are you running a 130 or a 120 rear?? Anyone running a 130 or 140 606 or TKC?

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtntrails
ducnek - I'm running TKC-80s on my WRR - about 2k miles on them so far - seem to be wearing very well. On a smaller bike, they will easily go 5k - 6k miles if you maintain appropriate tire pressures. I have run TKCs on many bikes over the years and find them to be an excellent choice for 50-50 riding - great street tire - pretty good off-road. The rear is taller and does change the gearing. The front is also noticeably taller, but it generally feels more planted & stable than the oem front.

If your riding is more off-road oriented, D606s would probably be a better choice. They are even taller than the TKCs.
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