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Old 08-25-2010, 06:38 PM   #16651
Chadx
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Location: Bozeman, Montana
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While slapping new rubber on the back of the minibike this weekend, it was an opportune time to replace the chain slider. I've had a replacement sitting here for a while, but was waiting until I had the rear wheel off for the tire change. It was a quick replacement that you could probably do with the rear wheel still on. You might need to loosen the chain adjusters and slide the wheel/axle forward, though, to give yourself enough slack in the chain, but possibly not. I already had the wheel off, so plenty of slack in my chain as it dangled.

Remove the one bolt that holds on the slider and the two bolts that hold on the sidestand. I also removed the two screws that hold on the sidestand sensor onto the sidestand since I wanted it all out of the way for the remainder of the work.

With 8,600 miles on the bike, it was in need of changing, but still not urgent. As you can see from the chain pic, the telltale buffing was starting to occur on the outside of the chain. That means your chain has trenched in enough that the sides of the chain are in contact with the slider. Time to change it out. I probably should have changed it out around 500 miles ago.

If anyone is curious, of the 8,600 miles, the first 3,000 were with the stock 13/43 sprockets. The next 3,600 were with a 12 tooth on the front and stock rear sprocket and chain. The last 2,000 were with new 13/48 sprockets and a new chain (Primary Drive brand for all).

I didn't measure the depth of the grooves, but it was not getting scary. If you were on a long trip, you could finish it out without worry of chewing anything up. At least with the speed at which it was wearing for me. If you had 2,000 miles on your bike and it looked like this and you had another 2,000 miles to go on your trip? You should change it.

Everyone seems to have different results with the wear rate on these so the best advice is to watch your slider and replace it as needed. When you start to see buff marks on the outside of your chain, time to change, but DO NOT rely on the buff marks alone. Look it over good, especially the lower front part as that is an area where some have seen accelerated wear even when the rest of the slider looks in fairly good shape. The slider is the only thing between Mr. swingarm and Mr. chain. You do not the two of those to ever be introduced to one another, no matter how politely.


Top:





Bottom view:





Chain with buff marks:
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Old 08-25-2010, 06:46 PM   #16652
Pax
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ChadX: Did my chain slider at 4500 miles on the stock chain and sprockets and it looked about the same as yours. I could have waited but it was easy and made me feel better as I was already swapping the sprockets and chain. Kind of spendy for a piece of plastic, but so is the swingarm I spose.

-Pax

p.s. this was done right before Idaho this year with Bash3r who rightly nudged me into putting a powerlet, heated grips, new bars and the bigger tank on my bike; all worthwhile improvements over the bashplate and handguards I had done already (dueling Idaho pictures forum now! )

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Old 08-25-2010, 06:51 PM   #16653
RidingAgin
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Joined: Mar 2006
Location: Wet side of WA Cascades.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmyStrongMD
I just bought mine this morning

I was going to trade the CBR in on it, then I decided against it at the last minute. Base was $5,290, $5,780 or something out the door. Oh did I mention it's a 2010?

I was planning some upgrades, but now I think I'll hold off. The exhaust is nice and quiet...and for offroading near houses and stuff on trails back in the woods it'll be great having a stealthy bike. The handguards would definitely be nice, I've got my eyes on the ones with integrated signals With this much clearance, a skid plate isn't necessary unless you're doing really serious offroading.

First impression: Wow, this thing gets up and goes. It feels so much like a KLR 650 (acceleration wise)...it's sad. It also doesn't feel like a thumper at all. This engine is super smooth. All the rumors about speed and power are true. This little 250 has both. I was nervous about low end, but now I'm not. I think most guys who say there's no low end aren't used to 250s. Having owned a Rebel 250 and two Ninja 250s, I am impressed with the bike's low end. It keeps up in traffic short-shifting the heck out of it. It'll pull ahead of most cars if you open it up (0-60 is like 7.5 I read).

It cruises comfortably in 6th gear at 40mph all the way up to 80. I took my girlfriend to lunch today, so riding two-up (me 185lbs her 115lbs). It hit 85 in 5th gear! We cruised at 80 in 6th with a slight head wind. I rolled the throttle and it crept to 85, slowly. This is so much more than I was expecting, and I was expecting a lot! Been riding around all day, something over 100 miles, and no fuel light yet. I'm probably getting 70mpg or so.

I have complete confidence this bike won't disappoint you! I think I'm keeping this stock exhaust though, unless I find/fabricate a really quiet system for it. The only upgrade I want for the immediate future is a switch with the black plastics from the WR250X. I don't like blue...and it doesn't match my helmet from my CBR at all.

Good luck with your purchase!

PS: You'll probably need the link to lower this thing. I'm 6' with a 34 inseam and can't flat foot this beast. With my girl on the back I can, and I almost can (one heel down, the other hovering 1/2" or so off the pavement)
Great price fot the 10 bike. I wishi I could find one out in WA about that price. Some 09s available still so the 10 are a premium here. I may get a 09 for about the same price here if a check gets mailed in time to me. I decided to sell the boat I used only a few times a year and keep my bikes and add to them. Being at sea level doesn't compare to being in the mountains for view. Too many damm taxes on boats and trailers in WA too.
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Old 08-25-2010, 07:09 PM   #16654
Buzzbomber
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FWIW, you can easily remove the swingarm guard/chain slider without removing anything else. Actually, by easily, I mean with only a little bit of cursing and hand/body contortion, but without breaking anything. I know because I removed mine to inspect it after the first 100 miles of running a 12T up front. I had no visible wear on the guard before that, but the first ride with the 12T, which included some rough dirt, I was smelling hot plastic everytime I stopped. BIG grooves by the time I got home. And yes, I have those "buff marks", they showed up that day. Since then I have put another 2000+ miles on the bike and not further wear on the slider, strangely enough. I guess it just had to "bed in" to the new chain position.
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Old 08-25-2010, 07:16 PM   #16655
grubbie
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Location: Wyoming
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmyStrongMD
Who's got a comfy seat? that's my only beef with the bike so far. I like the stock gearing since it works well on the highway for me, but this seat is narrow and hard!
I felt the same way, but it either softened a bit and conformed to my butt.....or my butt hardened and conformed to the seat. However, there are aftermarket seats for this bike. I too own a 10 model, other than hand guards, skid plate, and rear rack,...it is bone stock and I love it that way. I may experiment with a 12t front sprocket but that would be about it for me. A bigger gas tank would be nice, but I love the looks of this bike, and don't care much for the looks of the safari, just my preference. I am not against mods, but it is already more bike than I am a rider, so why waste the cash? Hope you enjoy the new machine as much as I enjoy mine!
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Old 08-25-2010, 07:56 PM   #16656
RoadTripr
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Location: Jax, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmyStrongMD
Base was $5,290, $5,780 or something out the door. Oh did I mention it's a 2010?
I hate you

I offered the local dealer here 6K OTD for an 09 and they refused, asking 6800. I ended up with a nicely modded 08 with low miles.
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Old 08-25-2010, 08:01 PM   #16657
BigFeet
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$2900

Quote:
Originally Posted by RoadTripr
I hate you

I offered the local dealer here 6K OTD for an 09 and they refused, asking 6800. I ended up with a nicely modded 08 with low miles.

Due to an insurance hosing, I went ahead and bought a used 2008 WRX as a replacement for my KLR. Bought it 2 weeks ago for 2900 clams in Abilene with 2500 miles on it. That left enough money for farkles and a backup fuel pump, etc.

Farkling the hell out of it now...

Back riding soon!

Artoo
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Old 08-25-2010, 08:57 PM   #16658
gordo5
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Location: Toronto, Ontario
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BykMyk
I plan on taking it to the desert next month and hope to have it set up by then, so a little add'l info: 5'8", 160 lbs., about 31 inseam, c+ rider. So do you think I can get the bike setup low enough without a yamalink? Do I need to do the header and exhaust or should I wait?
Mike
I'm 5'8 with just under a 31" inseam and with just the stock shock lowering (an inch) I can just flat foot on one side. This is the tallest bike I've owned and it actually didn't take that long to get used to. I'd suggest trying this first before doing the lowering link. Oh, and I dropped the forks about 1cm.

Can't hurt to wait on the pipe too. Your going to have enough fun on a new bike as it is so if you want a performance perk later, you'll have saved the fun.

Edit: you probably want to change your gearing and tires though.

gordo5 screwed with this post 08-25-2010 at 09:17 PM
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Old 08-26-2010, 03:48 AM   #16659
deerHater
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Location: Ontario
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grubbie
......A bigger gas tank would be nice, but I love the looks of this bike, and don't care much for the looks of the safari, just my preference..........
IMS will soon release its 3.0 - 3.1 gallon stock-looking tank (it might be just a little taller than the stock Yamaha tank.)

Check out 2 threads in the oh-those-sweet-mods section over on the wr250rforum:
IMS Oversized Tanks!
IMS 3 GALLON TALLY!
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Old 08-26-2010, 04:06 AM   #16660
GSBS
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Saddle...

Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmyStrongMD
Who's got a comfy seat? that's my only beef with the bike so far. I like the stock gearing since it works well on the highway for me, but this seat is narrow and hard!
I got this one from Rick Mayer in California. Makes a huge difference on a road trip and the "wings" haven't been any issue off-road for me. In fact, when standing on the bike it gives my legs something to brace against.

He was having a special deal when I got this saddle... 50¢/cc for small DS bikes. So the saddle was only $125 plus $30 shipping. I had to send him my saddle to build it on, but still a good price I thought. Not sure if he will be doing the 50¢/cc deal again.

pix:



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Old 08-26-2010, 07:58 AM   #16661
mxbundy
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Location: Hemet Ca.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmyStrongMD
Who's got a comfy seat? that's my only beef with the bike so far. I like the stock gearing since it works well on the highway for me, but this seat is narrow and hard!
Several people like these guys,.......seatconcepts.com
My buddy Crawdaddy on here has one, did a write up in this thread somewhere.
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Old 08-26-2010, 11:20 AM   #16662
eljaye925
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Location: SoCal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ducnek
Thread. From. Hell.


This may have been discussed, but I couldn't find it.

I am finally in need of some new tires. I have used the 606R/MT21F combo on most bikes in the past. I am looking at using the Continental TKC80s on my WR250R. The Continental size I found that is close to the stockers is

Rear: 120/90/18
Front: 90/90/21

The stockers are
Rear: 120/80/18
Front: 80/100/21

Has anyone used these and will they fit without issue?

A little late...but you might look at the Michelin T63. Similar tread pattern, oem rear size, and half the price of the TKC80s.
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Old 08-26-2010, 11:36 AM   #16663
Crawdaddy
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Location: Ramona, CA.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mxbundy
Several people like these guys,.......seatconcepts.com
My buddy Crawdaddy on here has one, did a write up in this thread somewhere.
Easier to find the seat eval/write-up on the WRR Forum than over here in ADV land

http://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/oh...tion-t2768.htm
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Old 08-26-2010, 12:06 PM   #16664
sop
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Other than the obvious potential resale value down the road for a more recent model year, if buying new is there any advantage (mechanical, reliability, design changes, etc.) to finding an '09-'10 MY WR250R over a leftover new 2008 still on the dealer's floor?

I realize some of you claim to have purchased brand new 2010 (or 2009) bikes for absurdly low prices. Good for you! But, I've been looking at 2009/2010 models and haven't found these tremendous deals anywhere within 500 miles of my home. Every dealer is asking MSRP, plus all the normal taxes/tag/fees/etc. The only discounted deals I can find are on the leftover 2008 MY bikes.
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Old 08-26-2010, 12:28 PM   #16665
GSBS
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+1 on the T63s

Quote:
Originally Posted by eljaye925
A little late...but you might look at the Michelin T63. Similar tread pattern, oem rear size, and half the price of the TKC80s.
I got around 3K from the rear and the front still looked practically new at that mileage. And this was fairly low pressure for on/off road use (25R/20F).

Available at Motorcycle Superstore for $56 each (F or R) including shipping. That's about half what most people get for TKC80s and IMO they're better tires both on and off road, and on wet roads. Not as noisy as the Teeks either.

My 2ç
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