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Old 08-30-2010, 04:24 PM   #16726
xcel
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Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Northern IL
Oddometer: 62
Hi All:
I think some will like this one… If you have a weak stomach, you may want to turn away


Dateline: Aug. 27th, 2010 at ~ 11:15 PM -- 5-miles east of Douglas, Wyoming.



This




+

This




=



This (its my version of a reenactment:)

Results in…




This! X-Ray of my left shoulder taken a few hours ago...




Although there are some scratches to the poor WR's plastic, the bike is actually running well and not even a mirror or hand lever was broke off! The bike was stripped back to OEM but it will be all put back to its Long Distance Adventure Touring status very soon...





I am headed back to Glenrock, WY in a bit over three weeks where the WR is currently parked at the local Yamaha dealership to finish off the ride to the Pacific. I am simply to close to let a little old thing like a multiple-fractured collar bone get in the way.

She is still holding on to 103.5 + mpgUS from Boston on the Atlantic Coast to Douglas, WY. where that God ****** Pronghorn Antelope took me out.

Wayne
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Old 08-30-2010, 04:49 PM   #16727
NeilW
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Good luck with the healing Wayne. After a couple of close encounters, deer hunters are my new best friends

Thanks to your exploits, I've learned to maintain a good average mpg (~65) without the effort of hypermiling or any loss of riding enjoyment. Keep up the good work.
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Old 08-30-2010, 04:55 PM   #16728
Roam
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After numerous falls it's time to replace my stock handlebars. I would like to go a half to full inch taller. Preferably without risers. Any recommendations?

Thanks,
Hugh
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Old 08-30-2010, 05:03 PM   #16729
debaisley
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Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Rotterdam , NY
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might as well go with the fatbars when you replace the stockers. , get some of these, http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/pr...dFamilyId=3154 , they will rise the bars up 3/4" and allow you to use the fatbars. The Tusk Chub from rockymountain are a great handlebar and have a great price.
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Old 08-30-2010, 05:36 PM   #16730
Chadx
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Bozeman, Montana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artoo
I have a spare airbox door on the way. I'm going to mod it for more airflow and see if I notice it on the butt dyno. Doubt I will unless my imagination is active that day.
Artoo,
Since you have a second airbox door on the way, it may not be as critical, but you might want to go slow with the amount and size of holes. I'm not sure how loud the holes will be, but let me tell you that riding with the door completely missing is horribly loud. Way louder, for the rider, than loud exhaust.

When we bought my wife's WR, the previous owner completely removed the air box door and had no idea where it was. I couldn't believe how loud it was and the sound traveled straight up my helmet from below unlike a loud exhaust that points the sound away from the rider (at the cost of annoying people behind and around, but that's not the point of this post). I immediately took the door off my WR to put on hers, since I knew I'd be riding that WR for a while to shake it out. Well, then I started tinkering on hers and started riding mine again, but didn't make the time to swap the airbox door. I rode it that way for a week back and forth to work but then finally made the time to change it back after a couple hour weekend ride left my ears were ringing. Horrible.

Opening up the airbox under the seat may very well let it breath without as much noise getting to the rider, but experiment away on the side door and let us know what you find. Perhaps the hole cutting won't result in the ear splitting WHAAAAAAA in which removing the entire door does.
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Old 08-30-2010, 05:37 PM   #16731
YamRZ350
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Collar bones are a very poor design.
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Old 08-30-2010, 05:38 PM   #16732
skierd
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Joined: Jan 2008
Location: Fairbanks, AK
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Heal up wayne! I'll be similarly kitted out soon, the apparel not the injury, as my new to me Darien jacket n' pants shipped today. Not hi viz though lol.

Artoo - not all tires have balance dots, especially knobs. I have a friend with a portable wheel balancer so if things are really buzzy I use that to balance things.
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Old 08-30-2010, 05:39 PM   #16733
Chadx
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Location: Bozeman, Montana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xcel

e
Sorry to hear, Wayne. Heal fast and right. If they have to use screws and pins, make sure they are titanium (or balsa wood. Ha) as to not weight down your hypermiling!
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Old 08-30-2010, 05:42 PM   #16734
Attico
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The mark is usually a white circle DOT, not a embossed symbol or anything else. it is pretty prominent. if it isn't there, it doesn't need to be aligned to the valve stem.

Here is what I did/do on both my R1200GS and the WRR

I balance just the rim, no weight, no tire, just the valve stem. If you balance the rim, the tire is almost always within a few grams which you can't feel. I use a static balancer (marc parnes). Many new tires, michelin in particular have no marks which means it should balance perfectly. This is why balancing the rim is so important. My GS rim needed 5 squares 1 1/4 ounces to balance. That's allot for just a rim. The WRR is almost perfect. So much so that no weight is required if the tire is balances.

PS: you should mark how much weight and where it is on the INSIDE of your rim in case you/the shop ever misplaces or lose a weight strip.It's nice not to have to start over from scratch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Artoo
The above last post suggests that any marking should be inked or painted on the tire, not a molded in mark.

That makes sense since they really would not know how eccentric or out of balance a tire will be until AFTER it's out of the mold.

The only marking I found on the Shinko 244's:

The front tire has a small white ink or paint "C1" on the left side. It's about 90 degrees off from the valve stem.

Any opinions on whether this is the marking I'm looking to align with the stem?

Thanks,

r2
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Old 08-30-2010, 05:45 PM   #16735
BigFeet
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Wayne,

Sorry to hear you got hurt! Get well soon.

rToo

ChadX,

Thank you for the valuable info. I'll go conservative at first and report back. The doors are cheap as you no doubt learned. I'm considering some kind of labyrinth anyhow to slow water entry instead of straight in.. that might work to deflect sound down..

skierd,

Thank you for the info. When the dots are present are they in fact red and/or yellow? I think you are right and these tires probably are not marked. I may try rotating the front 90 degrees if I suspect runout stacking up between the wheel and tire.


Ar2
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Old 08-30-2010, 05:46 PM   #16736
YamRZ350
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Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artoo
The above last post suggests that any marking should be inked or painted on the tire, not a molded in mark.

That makes sense since they really would not know how eccentric or out of balance a tire will be until AFTER it's out of the mold.

The only marking I found on the Shinko 244's:

The front tire has a small white ink or paint "C1" on the left side. It's about 90 degrees off from the valve stem.

Any opinions on whether this is the marking I'm looking to align with the stem?

Thanks,
r2



The marks you're looking for differ with brand. Pirelli uses "fang" marks (2 small dots) Dunlop usually a yellow circle, for years Michelin didn't have any marks at all. Bridgestone uses a yellow circle also, I believe.

With cut rate brands, you run the risk of problems.
Have you tried contacting Shinko for the info you're looking for?
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Old 08-30-2010, 05:49 PM   #16737
BigFeet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Attico
The mark is usually a white circle DOT, not a embossed symbol or anything else. it is pretty prominent. if it isn't there, it doesn't need to be aligned to the valve stem.

Here is what I did/do on both my R1200GS and the WRR

I balance just the rim, no weight, no tire, just the valve stem. If you balance the rim, the tire is almost always within a few grams which you can't feel. I use a static balancer (marc parnes). Many new tires, michelin in particular have no marks which means it should balance perfectly. This is why balancing the rim is so important. My GS rim needed 5 squares 1 1/4 ounces to balance. That's allot for just a rim. The WRR is almost perfect. So much so that no weight is required if the tire is balances.

PS: you should mark how much weight and where it is on the INSIDE of your rim in case you/the shop ever misplaces or lose a weight strip.It's nice not to have to start over from scratch.
Attico,

Thank you for the info. I may try to find a price on one of those balancers... particularly if I don't find anything glaring when I check runout.

I'm wondering now if my tubes might be way out.. doesn't seem likely. I'll look it over and see if I can find what's what.

Since the white circle is the marker, the C1 on the front wheel might be it on this tire... it's kinda painted on, maybe 1/3". Besides, on cars with "shaker" tires, rotating the tire 90 degrees and then retrying the balance is old hat. And that C1 is 90 degrees away from the valve stem right now. ergo...

Artoo
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Old 08-30-2010, 05:53 PM   #16738
dirthauler
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Location: Pittstone, ya it's a Flintstones refference
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hughtwg
After numerous falls it's time to replace my stock handlebars. I would like to go a half to full inch taller. Preferably without risers. Any recommendations?

Thanks,
Hugh
i was thinking the same thing, but after a little research, i opted for protaper rm low contours on 2"rox risers just so that i could move the bars forward as well as up. Between the high risers and low bar i still got about 1.5" over stock and now when i stand i'm looking down the trail not at my front tire. The down side is the cost, the up side is no control cable changes, just flopped the throttle tube upside down. I'll post some pics if ya want
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Old 08-30-2010, 05:54 PM   #16739
BigFeet
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Joined: May 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YamRZ350
The marks you're looking for differ with brand. Pirelli uses "fang" marks (2 small dots) Dunlop usually a yellow circle, for years Michelin didn't have any marks at all. Bridgestone uses a yellow circle also, I believe.

With cut rate brands, you run the risk of problems.
Have you tried contacting Shinko for the info you're looking for?
YamRZ350, thank you for your input.

I've tried getting into the Shinko US site many times and it acts dead. All it does is hang. That's been going on for the past 2 months. Depending on what I find, I may try calling BikeBandit since that's where I bought the tires and see if they have a contact number. Scotty has a smooth ride with his tires; same size and brand.

One possible wild duck here: Both tires say SR244, but the rear says "Shinko" whereas the front says "Golden Boy". They look identical - same tread, etc. But the name has changed...

Well, thanks again for the info on the colors of the dots, etc. Again, the only paint or ink is the white C1 on the front tire only.

r2

Artoo
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Old 08-30-2010, 07:03 PM   #16740
BigFeet
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Ordered Marc Parnes Balancer

Quote:
Originally Posted by Attico
The mark is usually a white circle DOT, not a embossed symbol or anything else. it is pretty prominent. if it isn't there, it doesn't need to be aligned to the valve stem.

Here is what I did/do on both my R1200GS and the WRR

I balance just the rim, no weight, no tire, just the valve stem. If you balance the rim, the tire is almost always within a few grams which you can't feel. I use a static balancer (marc parnes). Many new tires, michelin in particular have no marks which means it should balance perfectly. This is why balancing the rim is so important. My GS rim needed 5 squares 1 1/4 ounces to balance. That's allot for just a rim. The WRR is almost perfect. So much so that no weight is required if the tire is balances.

PS: you should mark how much weight and where it is on the INSIDE of your rim in case you/the shop ever misplaces or lose a weight strip.It's nice not to have to start over from scratch.

Attico,

I couldn't find my dial indicator. It's still in a moving box somewhere. Eyeballing the front wheel/tire runout with a stead rest, I'd say the wheel isn't the roundest I've ever seen. It may have 1/16" out of round with much of that being what appears to be almost a flat spot. Yet the wheel itself doesn't look abused. I suppose it's possible someone got a spoke wrench for their birthday and didn't know what they were doing.

The tire itself has what I would call almost a "bulge" in the tread face. Not a typical eccentric gradual out of round, but more like a 10" area on the circumference that sticks out about 3/32". I expect BikeBandit would be more than happy to tell me that this was caused by excessive seating pressure by the installing shop. And that's possible since the guy showed himself to be a "brain donor"

One thing about the cheap tire; if I need to return it and can't get 'em to play ball, I'm not out that much.

I looked up the Marc Parnes balancer you were talking about. It seems like a good design to me and the price isn't bad ($105 shipped) with sticks of lead stick on weights costing $2 each. Can't get those at my backwater auto parts or tire stores. So I ordered a universal balancer and some sticks of lead.

If balancing doesn't improve the problem sufficiently to allow me to use up the new tires, I'll get the front tire replaced either as a defective part or on my ticket; whichever turns out to be realistic. Try it again. But this time, I want assurances from the seller that the tire is Shinko, not Golden Boy. Not sure if that's an issue at all; just suspect it.

Anyway, so thanks for the suggestion on the balancer! It should be in my tool box since cycle shops here refuse to use their balancers.

I'm a retired car mechanic, but not much motorcycle background. So I sure appreciate everyone's input! With that background, I have to admit to being very darned picky about wheel/tire smoothness. I go to unusual lengths to make my car and truck ride smooth. And that's not easy with all the crap out of round car tires being sold these days! I think maybe some people would have just used the tires up as is and maybe it wouldn't have hurt much.

So that's the plan.

Artoo
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