Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

[BigFeet]

Originally Posted by Attico

The mark is usually a white circle DOT, not a embossed symbol or anything else. it is pretty prominent. if it isn't there, it doesn't need to be aligned to the valve stem.

Here is what I did/do on both my R1200GS and the WRR

I balance just the rim, no weight, no tire, just the valve stem. If you balance the rim, the tire is almost always within a few grams which you can't feel. I use a static balancer (marc parnes). Many new tires, michelin in particular have no marks which means it should balance perfectly. This is why balancing the rim is so important. My GS rim needed 5 squares 1 1/4 ounces to balance. That's allot for just a rim. The WRR is almost perfect. So much so that no weight is required if the tire is balances.

PS: you should mark how much weight and where it is on the INSIDE of your rim in case you/the shop ever misplaces or lose a weight strip.It's nice not to have to start over from scratch.

Attico,

I couldn't find my dial indicator. It's still in a moving box somewhere. Eyeballing the front wheel/tire runout with a stead rest, I'd say the wheel isn't the roundest I've ever seen. It may have 1/16" out of round with much of that being what appears to be almost a flat spot. Yet the wheel itself doesn't look abused. I suppose it's possible someone got a spoke wrench for their birthday and didn't know what they were doing.

The tire itself has what I would call almost a "bulge" in the tread face. Not a typical eccentric gradual out of round, but more like a 10" area on the circumference that sticks out about 3/32". I expect BikeBandit would be more than happy to tell me that this was caused by excessive seating pressure by the installing shop. And that's possible since the guy showed himself to be a "brain donor"

One thing about the cheap tire; if I need to return it and can't get 'em to play ball, I'm not out that much.

I looked up the Marc Parnes balancer you were talking about. It seems like a good design to me and the price isn't bad ($105 shipped) with sticks of lead stick on weights costing $2 each. Can't get those at my backwater auto parts or tire stores. So I ordered a universal balancer and some sticks of lead.

If balancing doesn't improve the problem sufficiently to allow me to use up the new tires, I'll get the front tire replaced either as a defective part or on my ticket; whichever turns out to be realistic. Try it again. But this time, I want assurances from the seller that the tire is Shinko, not Golden Boy. Not sure if that's an issue at all; just suspect it.

Anyway, so thanks for the suggestion on the balancer! It should be in my tool box since cycle shops here refuse to use their balancers.

I'm a retired car mechanic, but not much motorcycle background. So I sure appreciate everyone's input! With that background, I have to admit to being very darned picky about wheel/tire smoothness. I go to unusual lengths to make my car and truck ride smooth. And that's not easy with all the crap out of round car tires being sold these days! I think maybe some people would have just used the tires up as is and maybe it wouldn't have hurt much.

So that's the plan.

Artoo

[Attico]

Sounds like you're on the right track. The flatspot on the rim can happen if the spoke tension isn't right. The bulge could beba seating issue. You can put your axle on wood blocks and use some stiff wire like a strand of romex as a guide to get rough runout, check roundness or for dents. A good shop can true out most problems. You can trust a shop like buchannans or woody (see vendors forums) if the local shop aren't any good.

Let us know how you make out...i'm curious.

Originally Posted by Artoo

Attico,

I couldn't find my dial indicator. It's still in a moving box somewhere. Eyeballing the front wheel/tire runout with a stead rest, I'd say the wheel isn't the roundest I've ever seen. It may have 1/16" out of round with much of that being what appears to be almost a flat spot. Yet the wheel itself doesn't look abused. I suppose it's possible someone got a spoke wrench for their birthday and didn't know what they were doing.

The tire itself has what I would call almost a "bulge" in the tread face. Not a typical eccentric gradual out of round, but more like a 10" area on the circumference that sticks out about 3/32". I expect BikeBandit would be more than happy to tell me that this was caused by excessive seating pressure by the installing shop. And that's possible since the guy showed himself to be a "brain donor"

One thing about the cheap tire; if I need to return it and can't get 'em to play ball, I'm not out that much.

I looked up the Marc Parnes balancer you were talking about. It seems like a good design to me and the price isn't bad ($105 shipped) with sticks of lead stick on weights costing $2 each. Can't get those at my backwater auto parts or tire stores. So I ordered a universal balancer and some sticks of lead.

If balancing doesn't improve the problem sufficiently to allow me to use up the new tires, I'll get the front tire replaced either as a defective part or on my ticket; whichever turns out to be realistic. Try it again. But this time, I want assurances from the seller that the tire is Shinko, not Golden Boy. Not sure if that's an issue at all; just suspect it.

Anyway, so thanks for the suggestion on the balancer! It should be in my tool box since cycle shops here refuse to use their balancers.

I'm a retired car mechanic, but not much motorcycle background. So I sure appreciate everyone's input! With that background, I have to admit to being very darned picky about wheel/tire smoothness. I go to unusual lengths to make my car and truck ride smooth. And that's not easy with all the crap out of round car tires being sold these days! I think maybe some people would have just used the tires up as is and maybe it wouldn't have hurt much.

So that's the plan.

Artoo

[BigFeet]

Originally Posted by Attico

Sounds like you're on the right track. The flatspot on the rim can happen if the spoke tension isn't right. The bulge could beba seating issue. You can put your axle on wood blocks and use some stiff wire like a strand of romex as a guide to get rough runout, check roundness or for dents. A good shop can true out most problems. You can trust a shop like buchannans or woody (see vendors forums) if the local shop aren't any good.

Let us know how you make out...i'm curious.

Attico,

Excellent tips, there. Thank you once again. I'll definitely let you know how things pan out.

I was considering taking the wheels to Woody's as I think they are in Denver. It's a bit of a hike, but doable.

I'll try the balancing first since the wheels aren't "horrible"... Would like to get through riding season and maybe one set of tires, then maybe farm the wheels out to Woody's during the off season.

Artoo

[hilligan]

Originally Posted by Artoo

I AM ARTOO!!11!!! FEAR ME AND BIGFEETS!!1!!

Artoo

Would you mind if I changed my log in to "Detoo"? Artoo?

(((((Sorry ... there's a fine Mist settling over the valley ....)))))

[BigFeet]

Originally Posted by hilligan

Would you mind if I changed my log in to "Detoo"? Artoo?

(((((Sorry ... there's a fine Mist settling over the valley ....)))))

Hey, Hilligan. I doubt anyone is amused by your fake quote asshattery. Quit trolling.

[Dysco]

Originally Posted by hughtwg

After numerous falls it's time to replace my stock handlebars. I would like to go a half to full inch taller. Preferably without risers. Any recommendations?

Thanks,
Hugh

I went to a ProTaper KX HI. Added good height, fit well with the cables, and only cost $60 and a pair of grips.

[Dysco]

Originally Posted by Artoo

The above last post suggests that any marking should be inked or painted on the tire, not a molded in mark.

That makes sense since they really would not know how eccentric or out of balance a tire will be until AFTER it's out of the mold.

The only marking I found on the Shinko 244's:

The front tire has a small white ink or paint "C1" on the left side. It's about 90 degrees off from the valve stem.

Any opinions on whether this is the marking I'm looking to align with the stem?

Thanks,

r2

Many bike tires don't have a painted mark at all. I know the T63s don't. Harbor freight sells tape-weights and you can use the axle suspended on jack stands as a balancing stand. Use chalk or a pencil to mark to low spots, spin it twice before adding weight to the top. It's not rocket surgery. Also note that if the bead is seated unevenly it could affect the shape of the tire. Get some tire lube from NAPA and use a lot of it. Paper-towel dry before balancing. It's not rocket surgery, take your time and think it through.


(I haven't balanced the last 2 sets of tires I've put on)

[hilligan]

Hammer it on there with an 18 pound sledge. Hit it with 98 pounds of air pressure. Run it up to 138 mph.

If ya survive .....

.... it's good.

heh

[eakins]

i've balanced every wheel (dirt, ds & street) i've mounted a tire on with this.
http://www.marcparnes.com/Universal_...l_Balancer.htm
i use motion pro stick on weights. theory is easy.
-setup and let wheel rotate to low point (heaviest spot)
-apply weight at top/light point/180 degree from low point.
-rotate 90 degree and let wheel move.
-if it goes back to low point add another weight to light point
-repeat until the wheel doesn't move...heavy point = light point = it's balanced

Originally Posted by Dysco

Many bike tires don't have a painted mark at all. I know the T63s don't. Harbor freight sells tape-weights and you can use the axle suspended on jack stands as a balancing stand. Use chalk or a pencil to mark to low spots, spin it twice before adding weight to the top. It's not rocket surgery. Also note that if the bead is seated unevenly it could affect the shape of the tire. Get some tire lube from NAPA and use a lot of it. Paper-towel dry before balancing. It's not rocket surgery, take your time and think it through.


(I haven't balanced the last 2 sets of tires I've put on)

[gas_pig70]

Originally Posted by Dysco

I went to a ProTaper KX HI. Added good height, fit well with the cables, and only cost $60 and a pair of grips.

At 6' I find the Pro-Taper Contour Windham MX/RM Mid bend to be just right though there are certainly higher bends. I hacked a little bit off the ends too assist with tree dodging.

[edteamslr]

Originally Posted by YamRZ350

Collar bones are a very poor design.

As requirements go, I'm not sure the designer would have been able to persuade the stakeholders that humans really need protection in that region from a lateral blow at 60mph when humans can only manage about 1/3rd of that under their own steam :)

[tremor38]

Originally Posted by edteamslr

As requirements go, I'm not sure the designer would have been able to persuade the stakeholders that humans really need protection in that region from a lateral blow at 60mph when humans can only manage about 1/3rd of that under their own steam :)

NFL players break collarbones running around on a field.

[Chadx]

I just spoke with Motion Pro about making a custom clutch cable 1.5" longer than stock. Since it is a custom item, it is going to run $40 plus shipping. Not out of line for what it is, but has me wondering if anyone else knows of a source for a longer clutch cable so I can compare, otherwise I might just go ahead and order tomorrow. Thanks.

[Dirtnadvil]

Do you think that Motion Pro would be condusive to a group buy on a longer clutch cable? Seems like we should be able to get 20 orders from this site pretty easily. Alot of guys are running high bend bars and risers on their bikes.

[debaisley]

I have 3/4" risers , CR high bend bars , absolutely no problems with any of the cables.