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Old 09-13-2010, 11:14 AM   #17101
BigFeet
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Big what?

Quote:
Originally Posted by hilligan
Ya mean "FEETS" ain't teh plural of "FOOTS"?

Okay, how about "BigFEATS"?
Fer a minute there at first glance, I was sure you'd written "BigTEATS". It's what you were thinkin' though, right?

OK, I went ahead and said it.

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Old 09-13-2010, 11:15 AM   #17102
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Tire spoon

Quote:
Originally Posted by hilligan
Naw, I weren't skeered. Only thing skeered me was gettin' Wifey to pull my drawers outta my puckered bee-hind.
A tire spoon is probably safest.
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Old 09-13-2010, 11:56 AM   #17103
RobR
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Quote:
BTW: Plastics, graphics, seals, foams, bumpers, etc etc for switching from blue 2008X to black 2009X plastics and graphics cost about $480 from Service Honda.
Really? I ordered replacement plastics from them last week to switch my 09 blue R over to all white (2010 X) look for about $240.


I just ordered fenders, side panels, headlight plastics and the gray/black seat - no graphics or anything else. I'll see if I have the right parts later this week when they arrive.
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Old 09-13-2010, 12:37 PM   #17104
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Grafix gouging

Quote:
Originally Posted by RobR
Really? I ordered replacement plastics from them last week to switch my 09 blue R over to all white (2010 X) look for about $240.


I just ordered fenders, side panels, headlight plastics and the gray/black seat - no graphics or anything else. I'll see if I have the right parts later this week when they arrive.
Yeah, that sounds about right for just the plastics. In fact, I think the black plastics may have been less than that. The graphics are very overpriced. And tough to deal with installation on the tank shrouds or air scoops or whatever they want to call them.

A few of the ancillary items were kinda' pricey too. But mostly, it was the graphics that cost a lot.

That's kind of a pisser, too because the other set of graphics I bought thru GYTR (different style, though) for my beater plastics were only $60 shipped.

Artoo
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Old 09-13-2010, 12:42 PM   #17105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spacekadet
- hey rydneseek, just thought of something that I wanted to note from your earlier post.

About the flat battery, as I understand it, you can't bump start an EFI engine that has a flat battery. If you can't find somebody to donate some electrons via jump cables, you either push or call for help.

cheers

A "Dead" battery (one that has been recently discharged) will regain a small amout of charge just by being left alone for 10 minutes or so, once the load has been removed. This usually is enough to power the electronics necessary to run the EFI and ignition - sometimes even enough for a short burst of starter. A battery that has been left discharged for months - say over the Winter - will not retain that reserve.
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Old 09-13-2010, 12:43 PM   #17106
trizzo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobR
Really? I ordered replacement plastics from them last week to switch my 09 blue R over to all white (2010 X) look for about $240.


I just ordered fenders, side panels, headlight plastics and the gray/black seat - no graphics or anything else. I'll see if I have the right parts later this week when they arrive.
its amazing how cheap the blue plastics are on ebay. super cheap! easy for us blue guys to stock up on spares!
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Old 09-13-2010, 12:45 PM   #17107
HardWorkingDog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BluePill
A "Dead" battery (one that has been recently discharged) will regain a small amout of charge just by being left alone for 10 minutes or so, once the load has been removed. This usually is enough to power the electronics necessary to run the EFI and ignition - sometimes even enough for a short burst of starter. A battery that has been left discharged for months - say over the Winter - will not retain that reserve.
Someone needs to do an experiment, in the interest of science--pull the battery and try to bump start it

It IS possible to make EFI without a battery--Yamaha does it on the 450 mx bike...
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Old 09-13-2010, 12:55 PM   #17108
BigFeet
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IMS Tank Fit

Quote:
Originally Posted by skierd


Skierd,

How the heck did you get your seat so low? The gaps on your bike look much tighter than most with the IMS tank...

Give it up... howdja do it?

Thanks,

ARtoo
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Old 09-13-2010, 12:58 PM   #17109
SkidMarx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HardWorkingDog
Someone needs to do an experiment, in the interest of science--pull the battery and try to bump start it

It IS possible to make EFI without a battery--Yamaha does it on the 450 mx bike...
I doubt it will work with no battery. You have to close the circuit somehow.
Batteryless EFI isn't new. Suzuki has had it since about 1996(used in Arctic Cat snowmobiles). It uses a capacitor instead of a battery.
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Old 09-13-2010, 12:59 PM   #17110
BigFeet
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Tank Leak

Hey Scotty,

I read back a ways and didn't see what you figured out on your IMS tank leak.

Did you find anything causing it or did just taking the pump/seal/o-ring thing apart and reassembly fix it?

Thanks,

Artoo
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Old 09-13-2010, 01:02 PM   #17111
trizzo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkidMarx
I doubt it will work with no battery. You have to close the circuit somehow.
Batteryless EFI isn't new. Suzuki has had it since about 1996(used in Arctic Cat snowmobiles). It uses a capacitor instead of a battery.
this brings up an interesting point - for WRR/WRX riders doing serious off-road travels, should they be bringing a small set of jumper cables "just in case" to get a jump/bump off some carbeurated bikes?
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Old 09-13-2010, 01:10 PM   #17112
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Jumper cables

Quote:
Originally Posted by trizzo
this brings up an interesting point - for WRR/WRX riders doing serious off-road travels, should they be bringing a small set of jumper cables "just in case" to get a jump/bump off some carbeurated bikes?
I won't say I'm planning any really serious offroad travels, but I think the jumper cables are a good idea.

Whatcha' think? 10 gauge heavy enough? Too much?

Artoo
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Old 09-13-2010, 01:12 PM   #17113
HighFive
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artoo
HF,
Quote:
Originally Posted by Artoo

Glad to hear ya' got it running! Sorry to hear about helicoil snafu. Do ya' think reducing factory inch pounds by 10% might save the threads?


I doubt it. Many of the aluminum tap threads are only lasting for about 3 uses. I did use an inch-pound torque wrench every time. I was quite careful.
The biggest problem was the threads which secure the two valve cover bolts. They are "open-end" threads tapped into the camshaft cap assembly. Thinnest aluminum threads you've ever seen. Spec says to only use about 7.2 ft-lbs (86 inch-pound), if I recall correctly. You might get by once (I didn't), but not twice. I had a major valve cover leak when I finished re-assembly and started the engine for the first time. That was a LOVELY experience.

So, take everything back off and see what the problem was. One of the paper-thin threads had completely broken away from the wall. The entire thread was still attached to my bolt when I pulled it out. Not pieces of thread....the entire thing....like a threaded sleeve. Needless to say, I found the source of my leak.
The other bolt hole was still working fine. It would torque to spec again and again. But when I inspected it, I could see quite a few threads in there were falling apart. The most exciting part, is the open-end (beneath the threaded bolt) allows that broken thread material to fall into your motor (i.e. camshaft / valve area)....to take a wild ride into the black be-yonder. Fortunately, its very soft aluminum and will probably be chewed up by gears and caught in the oil filter.....if it travels that far before doing any serious damage. Hopefully, it doesn't clog an oil port or tunnel.

So, I pulled the camshaft cap out of the bike (its a simple one piece unit), put it in my vise, and replaced the threads with Helicoils. Piece of cake, and actually a fun exercise, if you've never done something like that before. It took the 6mm size of Helicoil. Now, I can torque the valve cover as much as I need, practically speaking....with no doubts or worries.

Later on, I had another aluminum thread break out in my frame. I was using my 1/4" inch-pound torque (again) to cinch the bolt which holds my Force Radiator Guard to the frame (right behinde the fan motor). It was the third time I have screwed that bolt out & back into the frame, since having the bike. Helicoil to the rescue again! Drill, tap, wind in and voila....fixed forever!

Interestingly, the factory appeared to install Helicoils into the head where the 8 bolts that secure the camshaft cap are threaded. They just didn't do it to the very last two bolts on top! Cheap bastards...

Maybe you won't have trouble with yours....I donno....feeling lucky? I just know its such an easy, permanent fix, that nearly anyone can do.....if & when you ever happen to be in there.


On the brite side, I did prove you can remove the valve cover to check your valve clearance (and fix these threads, if necessary) without moving the engine. You just have to remove the radiator and its hoses, then loosen the injector manifold where it connects to the head....so you can pull back on it a little bit as you slip out the valve cover in a twisting kind of fashion. Confused? You'll figure it out.





Say, thanks again for all the great dyno info with EFI settings "before the bigbore mod"! If ya' do that kind of philanthropy once again (dyno with bigbore), I hope you'll pull the airbox door.
Reason: See if yer ultimate airbox mod flows enough air for the bigbore kit or not.


Yes, I plan to do this very thing.....someday soon. Just for the Collective Cause, of course.


Artoo

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HighFive screwed with this post 09-13-2010 at 01:21 PM
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Old 09-13-2010, 01:22 PM   #17114
trizzo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artoo
I won't say I'm planning any really serious offroad travels, but I think the jumper cables are a good idea.

Whatcha' think? 10 gauge heavy enough? Too much?

Artoo
with a small pair of aligator clips? easily tucked away?

im not an EE, what do the guys with electrical know-how in the group say? not gonna let the smoke out of anything with this setup will we?
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Old 09-13-2010, 01:22 PM   #17115
BigFeet
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Good Info.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HighFive


HF
HF,

Thank you for the excellent info.

If my defective memory serves, Eagle Mike used to recommend reducing a lot of the torques on the KLR's. One I think was reducing cam cover bolts to 50 inch pounds.

But ya' know? That's a different bike and probably wouldn't solve this problem. I think you're right. If you've got it apart and know it to be a trouble area, why not make the helicoils part of the procedure?

Once again yer savin' the WR owners some PITA work by talkin' about it. Much appreciated.

I tightened my radiator guard bolts by hand not even thinking it might be into aluminum threads. Didn't even use a torque wrench on those. Oops.

Anyhow, lookin' forward to reading your report on the bigbore kit!

Artoo
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