ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 10-21-2010, 08:36 PM   #18031
BigFeet
Banned
 
Joined: May 2009
Oddometer: 501
Quote:
Originally Posted by kawagumby
FWIW, regarding fork seals; if you live in an area that has hard water, be sure and wipe down the sliders after you wash the bike. Otherwise, the water stains on the sliders (minerals) will eat away at the seal lip causing premature wear. If you use WD40, be sure and wipe that off too, as WD40 is known to cause problems with seals. I always put quite a bit of grease between the dust seal and fork seal to help trap dust particles that get past the dust seal, it seems to help; once or twice per season I wipe the dirty grease out and replace it.
Terribly hard water here. I'll start paying more attention to that. Might try the "grease trap" thing, too..

L
BigFeet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2010, 02:33 AM   #18032
greer
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Glasgow, Kentucky
Oddometer: 3,635
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigFeet
Sarah,

Good tip. Do ya' stone any dings down with a machinist's stone or...?

Thanks,

Larry
Yep. And then I added a set of Shock Sox, hopefully as a bit of prevention. I had to take a heat gun and open up the plastic fork guards just a tad as they wanted to rub. So far, so good.

Sarah
__________________
'08 DR650; '06 XL883 Standard
greer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2010, 06:02 PM   #18033
BigFeet
Banned
 
Joined: May 2009
Oddometer: 501
Revloc Auto Clutch installed

This text is retreaded from another thread, just thought I should say here: Hat's off to Alan! Nice kit! -feet



Installation was easy; works GREAT!

I had no idea they were this much fun... There I was goin' all "joe trials rider" in my yard 'cause my seat's headed to CA to be rebuilt...


Winding that spring on the lower end of the clutch cable was a PITA... hands just won't fit in that area. Everything else, easy-peasy.


- BigHands
BigFeet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2010, 07:05 PM   #18034
BigFeet
Banned
 
Joined: May 2009
Oddometer: 501
Quote:
Originally Posted by greer
Yep. And then I added a set of Shock Sox, hopefully as a bit of prevention. I had to take a heat gun and open up the plastic fork guards just a tad as they wanted to rub. So far, so good.

Sarah
Thanks, Sarah. I have a set of seal savers that are kinda' like the shock sox. Figured I'd put those on after I get the suspension back..

Oh yeah. That's the next thing. Sending the forks and shock out to Go Race on Monday...

I'm spendin' money like I had it! Not so much.

Larry
BigFeet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2010, 07:59 PM   #18035
BigFeet
Banned
 
Joined: May 2009
Oddometer: 501
Left Hand Rear Brake?

I read where Revloc's left hand rear brake doesn't fit so well on our WRR/x's.

They take a huge amount of grinding of the castings to fit.

Can anyone recommend a different make LH rear brake that'll fit without huge mods?

Thanks!

L
BigFeet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2010, 09:10 PM   #18036
arkridergc
Gnarly Adventurer
 
arkridergc's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Pottsville, AR
Oddometer: 295
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigFeet
I read where Revloc's left hand rear brake doesn't fit so well on our WRR/x's.

They take a huge amount of grinding of the castings to fit.

Can anyone recommend a different make LH rear brake that'll fit without huge mods?

Thanks!

L
Feet if I understand correctly that you are looking for a left side of the bar master cylinder/lever, then look at the Polaris 4 wheeler unit. Some of the Polaris' use only one lever to work both the front and rear brakes. I used one my son's Yamaha Grizzly 450 4 wheeler to move the front brakes (hydraulic) from the right side to the left (he can't grip with his right hand). It uses a banjo fitting just like the right side so I didn't have to get new lines. Worked great. Hope this helps. Is it snowing in Colorado yet?
Gary
__________________
Well they say time loves a hero, but only time will tell......Little Feat
3 rides in 1 weekend, Mt. Nebo State Park Arkansas
Two Brothers on Two50's
Two Brothers on Two50's ride Colorado
'09 Yamaha WR250r, '08 Harley Davidson Road Glide
arkridergc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2010, 09:18 PM   #18037
BigFeet
Banned
 
Joined: May 2009
Oddometer: 501
Quote:
Originally Posted by arkridergc
Feet if I understand correctly that you are looking for a left side of the bar master cylinder/lever, then look at the Polaris 4 wheeler unit. Some of the Polaris' use only one lever to work both the front and rear brakes. I used one my son's Yamaha Grizzly 450 4 wheeler to move the front brakes (hydraulic) from the right side to the left (he can't grip with his right hand). It uses a banjo fitting just like the right side so I didn't have to get new lines. Worked great. Hope this helps. Is it snowing in Colorado yet?
Gary
Gary,

No snow here yet. Soon, I fear.

Yeah, I just put a Revloc Auto Clutch on the bike. So the plan is to remove the clutch lever and install a left hand rear brake lever on the handlebar.

There are some that work in combo with the foot brake; others require bypassing the foot brake. I'd prefer to have either the left lever or the foot brake control the back brake.

The auto clutches tend to freewheel at slow speeds sometimes, so I'd like to have the control of the back brake when going down rough hills.

Do you think that the Polaris brake will work for this?

Revloc makes a left hand rear brake unit, but an inmate says it requires massive grinding on the casting to make it fit with the other stuff on the handlebars. So lookin' for a smaller/easier to fit unit.

Thanks!

Larry S.

(I call the bike "BigFeet" due to the fat knobbies on the 17" wide X wheels)
BigFeet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2010, 09:24 PM   #18038
joenuclear
Planning.....
 
joenuclear's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2007
Oddometer: 6,095
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigFeet
Gary,

No snow here yet. Soon, I fear.

Yeah, I just put a Revloc Auto Clutch on the bike. So the plan is to remove the clutch lever and install a left hand rear brake lever on the handlebar.

There are some that work in combo with the foot brake; others require bypassing the foot brake. I'd prefer to have either the left lever or the foot brake control the back brake.

The auto clutches tend to freewheel at slow speeds sometimes, so I'd like to have the control of the back brake when going down rough hills.

Do you think that the Polaris brake will work for this?

Revloc makes a left hand rear brake unit, but an inmate says it requires massive grinding on the casting to make it fit with the other stuff on the handlebars. So lookin' for a smaller/easier to fit unit.

Thanks!

Larry S.

(I call the bike "BigFeet" due to the fat knobbies on the 17" wide X wheels)
Have you considered moving the electrical switch away from the grip to allow room for the LHB?
joenuclear is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2010, 09:34 PM   #18039
BigFeet
Banned
 
Joined: May 2009
Oddometer: 501
Quote:
Originally Posted by joenuclear
Have you considered moving the electrical switch away from the grip to allow room for the LHB?
It's worth looking at. The problem is, all I have are pictures of the various brake units. I have to compare that to what space there is or can be made on the bars... then try to decide if it will fit without major grinding...

So I'm kinda' hoping to find someone who has worked out a good fit; what brake unit fits best. A sure thing versus a WAG.


I'll pm Machtig and see if his auto clutch bike is using a left hand rear brake...

L
BigFeet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2010, 09:46 PM   #18040
BigFeet
Banned
 
Joined: May 2009
Oddometer: 501
pm sent to machtig over in the other forum.

L
BigFeet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2010, 01:22 AM   #18041
Chadx
Off the road again..
 
Chadx's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Bozeman, Montana
Oddometer: 2,169
Quote:
Originally Posted by Buzzbomber
I got a case of itchy trigger finger and wound up ordering up a set of primary drive sprockets and their x-ring chain in a 112-link last night. I won't be getting to it next weekend though, so I'm interested to see what you find.
I'm running the Primary Drive Xchain (the one with the higher tensil strength) with 112 links on my Primary Drive steel 13/48 sprockets. Perfect length for that and have had only minor wear and/or stretch in the last 4,000 miles. Very happy with the Primary Drive product so far.
Chadx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2010, 04:17 AM   #18042
edteamslr
Gnarly Adventurer
 
edteamslr's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Oddometer: 198
failure modes

Correct me if I'm wrong (no troll, me) but isn't stretching in chains about wear and other factors, not tensile strength?

Also, tensile strength does not necessarily give an indicator of toughness/stiffness which would more likely be related to the plastic deformation of the chain sideplate holes (ovalling) that could result in stretching of a chain (e.g. a chain may have a higher tensile strength but deform twice as much to achieve it relative to a more brittle chain that deforms very little but has a lower tensile strength). Thought I'd look on google for something to help...nothing has actually failed in the material sense in this picture.

http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgur...OMIYGWOoTr6c8L
edteamslr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2010, 04:42 AM   #18043
RimBenty
Bender of Rims
 
RimBenty's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2008
Location: Ashland, VA
Oddometer: 270
Since you're talking about chains. I found this a while back and thought I'd pass it along. Just someones opinion on chains, I can't validate any of it.
http://www.quality-cycle.com/truth_a...cle_chains.htm
RimBenty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2010, 06:42 AM   #18044
edteamslr
Gnarly Adventurer
 
edteamslr's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Oddometer: 198
Feel-good article...

The guys who wrote this ad have been reading the retail packets have realised that there is a gap between what the chain manufactures are telling us but rather than find the right answer they instead use these spurious figures to try and sell new chains to us. I wouldn't buy a chain off them based on their logic...

Fact 1 The author states that 8000-9500lbs is enough for any bike (8 or 9.5, which is it???)
Fact 2 Tsubaki state that 7,800 is enough for up to 1000cc (and including 1000? They don't say)
Fact 2 RK are selling a 8,000 chain for up-to-400cc - over-engineered surely?
In Fact 7, DID state that 7,200 is enough for under 500cc bikes (8%: not far off the Tsubaki 1000cc claim really)
The author also rubbishs Regina, not just for being expensive, because it's only 7,600 and shouldn't be used on 600cc+ despite Regina recommending it for up-to-750cc (which doesn't sound unrealistic when Tsubaki say 7,800 for up-to-1000cc.

X-ring lips vs O-rings aside. This article just points out the obvious - of the chains which are recommended for your bike capacity, consider your o-ring vs x-ring inclinations and find that cheapest one but don't pay more for unnecessary, increased tensile strength.

At the end of the day, you are not qualified in law to make judgements on the suitability of a chain for a motorbike but you can choose the cheapest one with any tensile strength the manufacturer recommends.
edteamslr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2010, 07:10 AM   #18045
joenuclear
Planning.....
 
joenuclear's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2007
Oddometer: 6,095
My mechanic [Travis at Mossy Creek Cycle] says almost all modern chains are capable of good service on dirt bikes. He will not recommend a chain made in China due to loose tolerances and improper heat treating. The last chain he cut for my XR650R was a D.I.D. X-ring.
joenuclear is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 05:36 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014