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Old 06-10-2011, 07:40 AM   #22321
onetravdown
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Location: The garbage state
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichardU View Post
I have 6,500 miles on my Thumper Racing 280 and you are correct, no noticeable change in vibration. My wife has a WR250R with an FMF programmer but not the big bore, so I can ride them back to back. The 280 provides a remarkable boost in power. Going from the 280 to the 250, it feels like the brakes are dragging. (They aren't.)

The 280 is great once you have it installed, but because they use your existing cylinder and press in a new liner, be prepared for some downtime. I'm in the midst of helping a friend install his 280 and it's been dragged out by one delay after another. If we could do it over, we would order everything from Thumper Racing, wait to have it in hand, then remove the cylinder and take it to a local machine shop to press in the new liner.
That's some good info! Thanks. If I were to do it I would probably just send them my top end and have them do it. I think that price is around $550. Or maybe even just send them my motor and have them do everything for a little over $600. But that would probably depend on what shipping would be.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DougZ73 View Post
Trav, lets do it on your's and see how it goes. Then maybe I'll do it on mine.
I'm seriously considering it. I love this bike and plan on keeping it. I have it setup perfectly and I've spent a lot of money on suspension, X wheels, tank, etc. If I could add a nice boost in power that keeps the bike just as reliable, it makes sense to do that rather than getting another bike. But if I do go that route, it won't be until the middle of winter.
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Old 06-10-2011, 07:51 AM   #22322
Dastard
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Battery size

Hope someone can help me out here.

My battery went tits up yesterday and I need a new one. I'm at work now and can't find the size of the battery. I don't suppose anyone can post it up here?

Thanks

D
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Old 06-10-2011, 07:53 AM   #22323
debaisley
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batteries

JIS Part Number
Z7S
Interstate Cycle-Tron
FAYTZ7S
Champion (Exide)
YTZ7S
Motocross
727ZS
Sears Stores
44200
Yuasa
YTZ7S
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Old 06-10-2011, 07:54 AM   #22324
Dastard
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Awesome, thanks.

D
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Old 06-10-2011, 07:55 AM   #22325
DougZ73
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BTW folks, thanks again for the recommendation on the ProTaper bars, Henry/Reed bend. I went to my local dealer and picked up a set yesterday, as well as some oil change stuff for my other bike.

I'll be cutting down and installing the bars sometime this weekend.

I may even wash the bike too.
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Old 06-10-2011, 08:29 AM   #22326
HardWorkingDog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DougZ73 View Post
BTW folks, thanks again for the recommendation on the ProTaper bars, Henry/Reed bend...
Maybe wait until they've survived a crash or three, then see if you still feel thankful
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Old 06-10-2011, 08:44 AM   #22327
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HardWorkingDog View Post
Maybe wait until they've survived a crash or three, then see if you still feel thankful
ProTaper SE CR Hi bend on mine has survived several easy drops with no issues so far...
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Old 06-10-2011, 08:50 AM   #22328
onetravdown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buzzbomber View Post
ProTaper SE CR Hi bend on mine has survived several easy drops with no issues so far...
It's not the easy drops he has a problem with. It's when he starts pin balling off of trees then drops it that's the problem.
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Old 06-10-2011, 09:16 AM   #22329
DougZ73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HardWorkingDog View Post
Maybe wait until they've survived a crash or three, then see if you still feel thankful
Quote:
Originally Posted by Buzzbomber View Post
ProTaper SE CR Hi bend on mine has survived several easy drops with no issues so far...
Quote:
Originally Posted by trav72 View Post
It's not the easy drops he has a problem with. It's when he starts pin balling off of trees then drops it that's the problem.
Yeah, sad state of how much stuff I already have broken on my " brand new bike". I'll have to get some picture up detailing each broken part. Luckily, its all ancillary stuff..blinkers, foot pegs, brake lever, rad shroud plastics and bars. ( buy stock in zipties )

The easy drops I do quite often..hurts nothing bu my ego. The bouncing off hard things, like trees, does not work so well with the bars. But, including stock bars, this will make third set, with a combined price of $66. I can handle $33 once in a while.
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Old 06-10-2011, 09:24 AM   #22330
greer
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Safari cap

Here are some pictures for Chadx:









Those black specks around the neck aren't grit, seems like they're inbedded in the tank. Don't remember when I first noticed them. Hope the pictures help a little, I'm a crap photographer.

Sarah
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Old 06-10-2011, 05:12 PM   #22331
gordo5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirthauler View Post
i find myself now concidering an exhaust upgrade, could someone in he know decribe the difference between the fmf Q4 and and powercore 4 which is louder? and if i combine it with an fmf header, whats the advantage of the megabomb vs. powerbomb?
A while back I posted up this mod of my Q4 spark arrestor. This made the Q4 almost as quiet as stock, but there was a performance hit. Not that huge, but it was there. This was with my Q4 and powerbomb. Soon after I got a megabomb, in my quest for steath, and it did get even quieter. At that point I wish I could have found someone on a stock bike to compare with because it may have been quieter than stock. I'll never find out now as I had to lose the screen, but I've kept my little db dawg like thing because it helps quieten things up without any significant power hit.

I think the mb is quieter than the pb but it also produces a slightly different sound. Hard to describe, maybe a bit deeper and thumperish, if that means anything. The mb is supposed to make more power than the pb but for me, the jury is still out on that one. When I first put it on and rode it on the street I thought, Na, didn't think so. But then trail riding in some slower situations I started to wonder. Either way, if it does produce more power it's minimal.

The mb also sticks out a bit further and there aren't a lot of heatshield options. Plus it costs more, so if you're on a tighter budget the mb isn't all that, it's just a bag of chips. Simply put, I like it better but it isn't worlds better.

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Old 06-10-2011, 07:17 PM   #22332
DougZ73
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I got my new Protaper bars installed tonight, but I am not 100% happy with them. The bars themselves are great, nice and thick and hard to see them getting bent easily. The Henry/Reed bend I got is also great.

BUT, they came at 31.5" wide. I took an inch off each side, leaving them at 29.5"...still a full inch wider than I had cut the stock bars down to. I did not think I would have any issues fitting the controls back on, but I did. Where the bars start to bend is different than where the stock ones do, so I had to do some creative modding/mounting to make things work. Had I not done that, both the clutch lever and front brake lever would have been on this weird funky angle compared to the angle of the grips themselves.

I was able to trim the grip on the clutch side, to move everything left by about 1/4". That made it possible to have the switch gear and the lever in a somewhat normal position. BUT, on the throttle side, there was not enough room for everything, so the switch gear went way inboard, closer to the top clamp. Not the best. I'll get pics up tomorrow when I have daylight again.

I also had to cut off the ends of the brake and clutch levers, to make things fit a little better with the Moose hand guards.

Anyone have these issues and if so, how did you solve??
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Old 06-10-2011, 08:07 PM   #22333
EnderTheX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DougZ73 View Post
Anyone have these issues and if so, how did you solve??
Mine fit fine without significant mods... I even have the Scotts Steering Damper submount kit which raises the bars.

Only things I had to do was re-organize the cables/hoses a bit and turn the throttle cable housing upside down so the cables are on the bottom of the bars instead of the top.
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Old 06-10-2011, 11:53 PM   #22334
MotoMind
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DougZ73 View Post
I was able to trim the grip on the clutch side, to move everything left by about 1/4". That made it possible to have the switch gear and the lever in a somewhat normal position. BUT, on the throttle side, there was not enough room for everything, so the switch gear went way inboard, closer to the top clamp. Not the best. I'll get pics up tomorrow when I have daylight again.

I also had to cut off the ends of the brake and clutch levers, to make things fit a little better with the Moose hand guards.

Anyone have these issues and if so, how did you solve??
Perhaps you can swap the position of the killswitch to gain some room? See below.



http://motomind.blogspot.com/2011/06...-controls.html
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Old 06-10-2011, 11:56 PM   #22335
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By the way, should I be worried about the battery on my 2008 WR250R w/ 10K? The bike has been sitting on and off, and the battery has been pretty low before but never cranked to dead. If functions fine as far as I can tell. I'm taking off on a big trip and would hate to have to try to make 12V out of AAs because the battery died in the middle of nowhere.
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