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Old 06-16-2011, 11:24 AM   #22501
Jäger
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Location: NW MT/SE BC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighFive View Post
Boy howdy...have I ever been asleep at the wheel. Now, I'm afraid to even turn on my GPS again.
An owner's manual is truly a thing of wonder and beauty! And once you get past that front cover and open it, sometimes even useful and informative!

Quote:
Now, if I can just figure out where in my 60csx menu to verify/change/adjust these things...

Think I'd be happy to just get my Garmin and Spot matching.
Chadx already helped you get sorted on the display format.

As for your Garmin and SPOT matching... you might reflect a bit on whether you really want that - at least out in the field where you're actually using the GPS for navigation.

Your SPOT does not display position data to you out in the field. As Chadx's post also pointed out, there are a few old NAD27 datum maps out there that haven't been converted over to NAD83. If Moab is not available in mapping other than NAD27, then I bet there's a whole whack of short distance errors right there being made by ADV types. If you're using published topo maps, plain and simple, your GPS datum should be set to match the datum printed on the map. Just as you would adjust your compass's declination scale to match the map's. Just part of land navigation.

Trivia point of interest regarding WGS84: it can have vertical errors of as much as 200 meters. It was developed as a horizontal datum, not a vertical datum. Most recreational GPS units use a barometer for displaying elevation, sometimes in conjunction with contours on loaded maps. But the vertical error in horizontal datums, along with changing barometric conditions, is one reason why you don't put a whole lot of faith in elevation readings in handheld recreational GPS units.

Anyways...

So for the field, trip planning, etc, I would simply use whatever coordinate system you prefer - and again, I'll heavily recommend UTM, to get familiar with it against the day you may actually want to use a gridded topo map if nothing else. You can upload and download to MapSource in your coordinate display of choice. When you're at home and you decide to check your SPOT page and compare the coordinates of "OK" messages or whatever against a waypoint you saved in the same place on your SPOT, simply change the display settings in MapSource (or your GPS if you prefer) to match Decimal Degrees. Once you're happy they're both singing from the same songbook, then flip back to your favorite.

It IS possible, however unlikely, that SPOT will give erroneous position messages due to being too close to another device. The SPOT people advise that SPOT should be at least 12" away from other GPS devices. Lots of people ignore that, go "Ha, works fine...". However, that does not mean the EMR from that device is not either messing with SPOT's reception at times, its transmission, or maybe just garbling the coordinates it sends out a wee bit. I assume the SPOT engineers specified that 12" separation for good reasons other than wanting to annoy people with motorcycles using both a SPOT and a GPS. So I observe the separation distance, at least as best I reasonably can:

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Old 06-16-2011, 12:00 PM   #22502
Jäger
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Originally Posted by jimrobinette View Post
Another big problem with a Spot activation isn't with the Spot activation or even the Spot response, but the local-yokel response you get. Spot will notify the nearest "local authorities", which could be Deputy Dog, packing a big ol gun and knowing how to blow the brains out of some criminal, but doesn't have the brains himself to know how to find a GPS location, or have the mental agility to transfer a DD.ddd format into a DD.MM.mm or DD.MM.SS format for that matter. Hell, some local authorities don't even have GPSs or trained to find someone out off the beaten path.
That is a huge issue, especially in areas without a nearby SAR group.

It isn't even about brains - this is incredibly rugged country around here, and a lot of guys I know don't carry a map, compass, GPS, PLB, or SPOT. They're smart guys, perhaps short sighted about not having an emergency device in case they get hurt. But they've been wandering those mountains since they were kids and they aren't going to get lost - so they see no need to own a GPS, much less learn to use one. Map and compass? Ha!

And police generally rarely have to go to a location out in the wilderness - not a lot of crime and vehicle accidents out there. So their job description usually does not include a GPS among the myriad of other gear they have to deal with. The rangers and wardens take care of almost all the wilderness stuff. The problem is that the rangers and wardens aren't the point of contact for 911 wilderness calls from SPOT or PLBs - the police are. And if they're in a police force where they get transferred every few years, or just moved there from another location for the employment, they're not "locals" with local knowledge.

Doing a Dempster/Alaska ride? In BC at least, SAR teams have to be activated by a call from the police through the Provincial Emergency Program. And the nearest military SARTECHs in BC for most people is Comox on Vancouver Island, for example - about as far away as you can get from much of the rest of BC. Most police in wilderness areas are pretty on the ball about activating SAR - not a few are also volunteers with local SAR teams. But sometimes, inevitably as with all professions, there are the clueless ones - and areas without a volunteer SAR team. Just one example of why the whole thing is not quit as seamless as it should be, at least in North America.

So the old rules apply of emailing/telling contacts where you're going and a general game plan. Of having tracking, so that if/when police/whoever contact your family to say they have an emergency signal from your PLB/SPOT (and maybe are a wee bit confused about how to find you), there's a breadcrumb trail to where you are for you to give them. Of having contacts that can sort out SPOT/PLB coordinates for local authorities if they happen to be lacking in understanding that technology. Having a list of friends/contacts who will be happy to jump on their bike with their GPS units to come looking for you in addition to whatever local SAR is and isn't doing - just like what happened in Beemer Bob's case.

It's just another part of trip planning, and usually needs setting up once, with occasional modifications to the plan as people move, situations change, etc. You can even have different profiles set up in your SPOT: one for backpacking trips, one for local rides you do regularly, one for your trip of a lifetime CDT, etc. Enable the one you need before leaving the house.

It's a relatively simple to use piece of technology that allows a great deal of fine tuning with a little bit of forethought and taking the time to figure out how all the components - including response - fit together.
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Old 06-16-2011, 12:03 PM   #22503
Jäger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emerson.biguns View Post
All of these ideas and problems have been discussed repeatedly in The Great Big Spot thread.
Which of course, not all are subscribed to.

And that thread hasn't quite managed to cover everything yet.

Besides, we look after our own littermates here... I would hate to see anything happen to HighFive because we didn't look after him! He may never go down, but I bet he does get "geographically embarrassed" at times.
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Old 06-16-2011, 03:09 PM   #22504
rydnseek
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Daniel Boone said, 'I've never been lost. But I will admit to being a bit confused for a few weeks.'
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Old 06-16-2011, 05:23 PM   #22505
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With my coming tat trip coming up, I thought I'd show you my ride all loaded up, along with asking a quick question.



Here is my question: My used 08 came with a K&N, so I decided to replace that for a more restrictive element. Well, I think I'm missing a piece, specifically a base fitting that goes inside the filter. As it stands my oe element simply sits on the lip and is held in place by the latch over the top, as seen:





Will this work? I'd rather not spend money on the guide (part no. 4GY-14458-00-00)
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Old 06-16-2011, 05:28 PM   #22506
HardWorkingDog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steez View Post
Will this work? I'd rather not spend money on the guide (part no. 4GY-14458-00-00)
I don't see how the clip can put any kind of decent pressure on the filter rim to keep it sealed, leading to potential dirt in the intake tract...not worth it, IMO.

Get the inner cage.
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Old 06-16-2011, 05:32 PM   #22507
MotoMind
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Get the NoToil Super-Flo filter kit, it includes a filter and cage.
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Old 06-16-2011, 05:36 PM   #22508
RoadDad
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Valve adjust

[QUOTE=skierd ]I really want to go outside and fiddle with crap on my bike, only its not there. Its at the dealer getting the valve adjustment done.

I'm beginning to wish I had done the same. However, I decided to do the 26,000 mile valve adjust myself. No problem I thought. Done valve adjusts before. Now after repeatedly trying to get the little marks lined up i'm typing this. No matter what I try the marks always end up being half a chain link off. Move the sprockets one link and the marks are off half a link in the opposite direction. Anyone run into this before or am I just missing something? Any suggestions appreciated.
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Old 06-16-2011, 05:50 PM   #22509
HighFive
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jäger View Post
An owner's manual is truly a thing of wonder and beauty! And once you get past that front cover and open it, sometimes even useful and informative!


But everything is about "frame of reference". Now, I have a proper frame.

HF
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Old 06-16-2011, 06:07 PM   #22510
DougZ73
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[QUOTE=RoadDad;16183190]
Quote:
Originally Posted by skierd
I really want to go outside and fiddle with crap on my bike, only its not there. Its at the dealer getting the valve adjustment done.

I'm beginning to wish I had done the same. However, I decided to do the 26,000 mile valve adjust myself. No problem I thought. Done valve adjusts before. Now after repeatedly trying to get the little marks lined up i'm typing this. No matter what I try the marks always end up being half a chain link off. Move the sprockets one link and the marks are off half a link in the opposite direction. Anyone run into this before or am I just missing something? Any suggestions appreciated.
Might be a little late now, but when I do valves adjustments and need to change shims, I only remove one cam at a time and use zipties to keep the chain tight and in place against the other cam gear. Once I am done with one, I put it back in, ziptie to that one and then remove the other, if needed.
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Old 06-16-2011, 06:26 PM   #22511
YZEtc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steez View Post
With my coming tat trip coming up, I thought I'd show you my ride all loaded up, along with asking a quick question.



Here is my question: My used 08 came with a K&N, so I decided to replace that for a more restrictive element. Well, I think I'm missing a piece, specifically a base fitting that goes inside the filter. As it stands my oe element simply sits on the lip and is held in place by the latch over the top, as seen:





Will this work? I'd rather not spend money on the guide (part no. 4GY-14458-00-00)
If you don't spend the money on the guide, you'll be spending money on a top end, at least (piston, rings, gaskets).

Buy the guide.
The foam filter is better, anyway, as long as you oil it with proper foam filter oil. :)
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Old 06-16-2011, 06:50 PM   #22512
GotMojo?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steez View Post
With my coming tat trip coming up, I thought I'd show you my ride all loaded up, along with asking a quick question.

Looking good!

What bag are you running on the back? And how does it work out with the Delta exhaust? Does the bag clear it, or did you have to do something to protect the bag from getting too hot?
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Old 06-16-2011, 07:12 PM   #22513
HighFive
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoadDad View Post
I'm beginning to wish I had done the same. However, I decided to do the 26,000 mile valve adjust myself. No problem I thought. Done valve adjusts before. Now after repeatedly trying to get the little marks lined up i'm typing this. No matter what I try the marks always end up being half a chain link off. Move the sprockets one link and the marks are off half a link in the opposite direction. Anyone run into this before or am I just missing something? Any suggestions appreciated.
Is the camchain jumping a tooth when you fire (release) cam chain tensioner? That was what I experienced. If so, there are a couple approaches to resolve this. First of all, make sure the marks are aligned, and pull all the slack in the camchain to the back side.....i.e. pull the chain tight on the front of the engine when you set it on the exhaust cam sprocket, and drape the extra slack over the back side where the camchain tensioner is.

Next, get your tensioner loaded, installed, & ready to fire. But, before you release the tensioner, put a good rag on top of the camchain sprockets (to protect your hand) and hold the chain down firmly against the top of the two sprockets.....while you release the tensioner (by turning the crank against it). Might take a couple attempts for you to get the hang of it, but the "Ah-Ha" moment will come. Then, it will be celebration timeout.

The other option, is to try and release the camchain tensioner from "inside" the cylinder tunnel using a long screwdriver, or the like. This keeps you from having to turn the crank to fire the tensioner. Often, just a little pressure pushed into the backside of the tensioner will make it release.....if you can reach it that way. I'd still keep my hand pressure on the top of the chain & sprocket to help keep it from jumping a tooth. This WRR tensioner is a nasty evil little gadget, and can fire with quite a bit of force.

Hope that helps you out.

HF
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Old 06-16-2011, 07:23 PM   #22514
Steez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GotMojo? View Post
Looking good!

What bag are you running on the back? And how does it work out with the Delta exhaust? Does the bag clear it, or did you have to do something to protect the bag from getting too hot?

Thanks! It's the wolfman MiniBeta. Depending on how it's packed is how it sits. To be safe I fitted two heatshields that are included with the GiantLoop bags to keep it off the can. Overall I'm happy with it for the price.

And as far as the inner element frame, a fellow wrr rider offered to let me have his! I love you guys!
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Old 06-16-2011, 07:44 PM   #22515
Fast1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighFive View Post
Is the camchain jumping a tooth when you fire (release) cam chain tensioner? That was what I experienced. If so, there are a couple approaches to resolve this. First of all, make sure the marks are aligned, and pull all the slack in the camchain to the back side.....i.e. pull the chain tight on the front of the engine when you set it on the exhaust cam sprocket, and drape the extra slack over the back side where the camchain tensioner is.

Next, get your tensioner loaded, installed, & ready to fire. But, before you release the tensioner, put a good rag on top of the camchain sprockets (to protect your hand) and hold the chain down firmly against the top of the two sprockets.....while you release the tensioner (by turning the crank against it). Might take a couple attempts for you to get the hang of it, but the "Ah-Ha" moment will come. Then, it will be celebration timeout.

The other option, is to try and release the camchain tensioner from "inside" the cylinder tunnel using a long screwdriver, or the like. This keeps you from having to turn the crank to fire the tensioner. Often, just a little pressure pushed into the backside of the tensioner will make it release.....if you can reach it that way. I'd still keep my hand pressure on the top of the chain & sprocket to help keep it from jumping a tooth. This WRR tensioner is a nasty evil little gadget, and can fire with quite a bit of force.

Hope that helps you out.

HF
I haven't popped open a little WR but on other Yamahas I've owned we would zip tie the cam chain to the cam sprockets during the tensioner release phase which may help you also.
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