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Old 06-16-2011, 06:44 PM   #22516
Fast1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighFive View Post
Is the camchain jumping a tooth when you fire (release) cam chain tensioner? That was what I experienced. If so, there are a couple approaches to resolve this. First of all, make sure the marks are aligned, and pull all the slack in the camchain to the back side.....i.e. pull the chain tight on the front of the engine when you set it on the exhaust cam sprocket, and drape the extra slack over the back side where the camchain tensioner is.

Next, get your tensioner loaded, installed, & ready to fire. But, before you release the tensioner, put a good rag on top of the camchain sprockets (to protect your hand) and hold the chain down firmly against the top of the two sprockets.....while you release the tensioner (by turning the crank against it). Might take a couple attempts for you to get the hang of it, but the "Ah-Ha" moment will come. Then, it will be celebration timeout.

The other option, is to try and release the camchain tensioner from "inside" the cylinder tunnel using a long screwdriver, or the like. This keeps you from having to turn the crank to fire the tensioner. Often, just a little pressure pushed into the backside of the tensioner will make it release.....if you can reach it that way. I'd still keep my hand pressure on the top of the chain & sprocket to help keep it from jumping a tooth. This WRR tensioner is a nasty evil little gadget, and can fire with quite a bit of force.

Hope that helps you out.

HF
I haven't popped open a little WR but on other Yamahas I've owned we would zip tie the cam chain to the cam sprockets during the tensioner release phase which may help you also.
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Old 06-16-2011, 06:54 PM   #22517
HighFive
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fast1 View Post
I haven't popped open a little WR but on other Yamahas I've owned we would zip tie the cam chain to the cam sprockets during the tensioner release phase which may help you also.
Oooo....I like that idea.

Just don't drop the zipties into the abyss, when you cut them off...eh?

HF
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Old 06-16-2011, 07:09 PM   #22518
PYG RYDR
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Question Tires

Anyone try to run the new Kenda Big Block 140-80-18 on the rear wheel?

http://www.kendausa.com/en/home/moto...big-block.aspx

I am speculating it is too wide and will rub the chain....

TIA
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Old 06-16-2011, 07:52 PM   #22519
tshrey
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Even if it fits, you really want to run a 15 pound tire on the back of little RR? The Dunlop D606 feels stupid heavy at 12.3 pounds.

Having said that, I'm curious if it will fit as well
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Old 06-16-2011, 08:20 PM   #22520
skierd
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Pardon,

But does anyone else running a Unifilter want to part with their stock filter cage for Steez? I offered mine up, but can't find the damn thing (or my TwinAir filter) to save my life. I'll pay for it for getting his hopes up...

Dave
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Old 06-16-2011, 10:43 PM   #22521
tshrey
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He can have mine, no need for anyone to pay anything.

Steez, PM me your address and I'll see if I can get it out tomorrow.


trav
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Old 06-17-2011, 02:59 AM   #22522
RoadDad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighFive View Post
Is the camchain jumping a tooth when you fire (release) cam chain tensioner? That was what I experienced. If so, there are a couple approaches to resolve this. First of all, make sure the marks are aligned, and pull all the slack in the camchain to the back side.....i.e. pull the chain tight on the front of the engine when you set it on the exhaust cam sprocket, and drape the extra slack over the back side where the camchain tensioner is.

Next, get your tensioner loaded, installed, & ready to fire. But, before you release the tensioner, put a good rag on top of the camchain sprockets (to protect your hand) and hold the chain down firmly against the top of the two sprockets.....while you release the tensioner (by turning the crank against it). Might take a couple attempts for you to get the hang of it, but the "Ah-Ha" moment will come. Then, it will be celebration timeout.

The other option, is to try and release the camchain tensioner from "inside" the cylinder tunnel using a long screwdriver, or the like. This keeps you from having to turn the crank to fire the tensioner. Often, just a little pressure pushed into the backside of the tensioner will make it release.....if you can reach it that way. I'd still keep my hand pressure on the top of the chain & sprocket to help keep it from jumping a tooth. This WRR tensioner is a nasty evil little gadget, and can fire with quite a bit of force.

Hope that helps you out.

HF

Guess i didn't explain the situation very well. I can't get the sprockets lined up period. Not even before i fire the tensioner. They are always about half a chain link off. No, they are not worn. Sprockets and chain look brand new and they were lined up before I pulled the cams.
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Old 06-17-2011, 03:39 AM   #22523
DougZ73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighFive View Post
Oooo....I like that idea.

Just don't drop the zipties into the abyss, when you cut them off...eh?

HF
Did ya like it when I said it at top of this page too?
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Old 06-17-2011, 03:42 AM   #22524
DougZ73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoadDad View Post
Guess i didn't explain the situation very well. I can't get the sprockets lined up period. Not even before i fire the tensioner. They are always about half a chain link off. No, they are not worn. Sprockets and chain look brand new and they were lined up before I pulled the cams.
Is there a chance you mixed up the cams and have the exhaust cam on the intake side and the intake cam on the exhaust side??

The manual should have the specs for the lift for each,. and you can measure the lobes with a lift to see which is which. They might also have an IN or EX cast somewhere into them.
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Old 06-17-2011, 04:49 AM   #22525
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tshrey View Post
He can have mine, no need for anyone to pay anything.

Steez, PM me your address and I'll see if I can get it out tomorrow.


trav
Wow thanks a lot guys! Really means a lot that people I don't even know are looking out for me!
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Old 06-17-2011, 05:52 AM   #22526
RichardU
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoadDad View Post
Sprockets and chain look brand new and they were lined up before I pulled the cams.
Did you take a picture before you took it apart? They don't always line up perfectly. You might not have noticed at the time.

Also, if the chain skips when you release the tensioner, I believe someone told me a solution is to rotate the engine in the other direction.
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Old 06-17-2011, 11:04 AM   #22527
Tygris
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Why my Bike wouldn't start on Wednesday

On Wednesday I told everyone of the tale of me trying to get to work on the WRR after two weeks and it not starting. Well today I found out why. Intially I found my EFI fuse had blown, so I replaced it with the spare and the bike started right up. Something told me to pull my seat as well just to check things out and I found 5 stowaways. Minnie mouse scurried away almost immediately . After much cursing I evicted the 4 kids and the nest from the air box (pics below). Minnie did a good job of eating through my FMF programmer's wires.

From Stowaways

3 Babies on top of the air box

From Stowaways

Nest in the air box with 1 more baby.

Moral of the story: Keep riding regularly and maybe keep the flapper on the air box.

Luckily I work for an electronics company so I can fix the wires in a jiffy.

Keith Brown
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Old 06-17-2011, 11:24 AM   #22528
SkidMarx
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^^^
That'll do it.
I duct tape the holes for the winter, but I doubt I would have bothered for just a few weeks.

Better to keep riding.
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Old 06-17-2011, 12:38 PM   #22529
Chadx
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The dang little critters set up house under my wife's car hood last winter. Only 4 or 5 days and they chewed out about 16" x 16" section of the hood insulation to build a nice nest on the exhaust manifold. Luckily no wires were chewed (that we found). I don't do anything specific for the motorcycles. Always think about it, though.
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Old 06-17-2011, 01:34 PM   #22530
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These stories make me want to surround my bikes with snap traps or glue traps. Fortunately I don't see signs of mice or rats in the garage but it makes me nervous when I read these types of things.
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