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Old 07-06-2011, 03:40 PM   #23071
Machtig
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Location: Monterey, CA
Oddometer: 373
Fork Seals

Thanks guys. If I had a shop and a vice, I'd just do it myself. But I don't right now, so I think I'll just have them done.

I'm getting ready to order parts. from the Service Honda parts fische, do I need all of this:


6 METAL, SLIDE 1
5ET-23125-L0-00 1 $13.60 $9.64
7 WASHER, OIL SEAL
5UN-23146-L0-00 1 $5.33 $3.79
8 OIL SEAL
5UN-23145-L0-00 1 $10.37 $7.37
9 RING,SNAP
4SS-23153-L0-00 1 $1.98 $1.42
10 SEAL, DUST
5HD-23144-L0-00 1 $16.45 $11.67

or just 8 and 10? Thanks

Brian
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Old 07-06-2011, 03:46 PM   #23072
HardWorkingDog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Machtig View Post
Thanks guys. If I had a shop and a vice, I'd just do it myself. But I don't right now, so I think I'll just have them done.

or just 8 and 10?
you'll need 6, 8 and 5--PISTON, FRONT FORK 5ET-23171-L0-00

The rest are reusable. You may want to order the dust seal just to have around in case, but typically they don't wear out. I've damaged one trying to clean out dirt from the oil seal without tearing the fork apart

5 and 6 are wear bushings, despite their Japenglish names.
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Old 07-06-2011, 04:33 PM   #23073
kawagumby
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Machtig View Post
Thanks guys. If I had a shop and a vice, I'd just do it myself. But I don't right now, so I think I'll just have them done.

I'm getting ready to order parts. from the Service Honda parts fische, do I need all of this:


6 METAL, SLIDE 1
5ET-23125-L0-00 1 $13.60 $9.64
7 WASHER, OIL SEAL
5UN-23146-L0-00 1 $5.33 $3.79
8 OIL SEAL
5UN-23145-L0-00 1 $10.37 $7.37
9 RING,SNAP
4SS-23153-L0-00 1 $1.98 $1.42
10 SEAL, DUST
5HD-23144-L0-00 1 $16.45 $11.67

or just 8 and 10? Thanks

Brian
Or you could do this; http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/pr...dFamilyId=2055

I once bought an expensive seal driver from race tech and never used it, I forgot I even had it.... I just found it unused in a box today, LOL. I've just always used a small punch to seat the seals. Most times you don't need to replace the bushings, especially if you are mostly on the road. The snap rings are reusable. Check out rocky mountains seal prices, since these are pretty much std KYB forks, everyone and their dog makes a seal kit for it.
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Old 07-06-2011, 04:34 PM   #23074
Machtig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HardWorkingDog View Post
you'll need 6, 8 and 5--PISTON, FRONT FORK 5ET-23171-L0-00

The rest are reusable. You may want to order the dust seal just to have around in case, but typically they don't wear out. I've damaged one trying to clean out dirt from the oil seal without tearing the fork apart

5 and 6 are wear bushings, despite their Japenglish names.
thanks man!
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Old 07-06-2011, 04:45 PM   #23075
DougZ73
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We just did Trav72's forkseals a couple weekends ago. He got a kit....I forget the brand...had everything in it. Was not too pricey either.
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Old 07-06-2011, 05:25 PM   #23076
HardWorkingDog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kawagumby View Post
Or you could do this; http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/pr...dFamilyId=2055

I once bought an expensive seal driver from race tech and never used it, I forgot I even had it.... I just found it unused in a box today, LOL. I've just always used a small punch to seat the seals.
LOL is right! I was too embarrassed to admit my tool of choice is a punch as well I've got a nice flat bottomed punch with a slight bend (hmm, wonder how THAT happened ) that's fits perfectly...

I'd rather have known quality oem seals and bushings over the Pivot Works unknown origin (i.e. china) stuff. Looks like Service Honda's cheaper with oem stuff than RM anyway, but even if it's a couple dollars more I'm gonna pay it. Just me...
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Old 07-06-2011, 05:30 PM   #23077
kawagumby
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HardWorkingDog View Post
I'd rather have known quality oem seals and bushings over the Pivot Works unknown origin (i.e. china) stuff. Looks like Service Honda's cheaper with oem stuff than RM anyway, but even if it's a couple dollars more I'm gonna pay it. Just me...
Yeah, I'd go with a better vendor at least for my DS. I have noticed that some of the cheap ones don't have the coil spring around the seal lip - but then again, back in the day, most didn't. If you can go OEM and the price is close, it's a no-brainer!
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Old 07-06-2011, 06:02 PM   #23078
onetravdown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kawagumby View Post
That's the kit I bought. It has everything you need. The seals looked and felt exactly like the OEM ones. I also bought the motion pro 46mm seal driving tool which worked great! 3 hits and the seal was in. I figured owning this tool will come in handy in the future as my bike spends a lot of time in the sand and dirt. I'm sure I'll have to replace them again in the future. Changing seals really is an easy job. It might take you 30 minutes the first time on one fork. But once you figure it out the second fork will take you 10 minutes.
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Old 07-06-2011, 06:51 PM   #23079
skierd
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Joined: Jan 2008
Location: Fairbanks, AK
Oddometer: 2,859
Messed with the CO mode settings tonight. Earlier this week I installed a full FMF exhaust, powerbomb header (thanks again BigBird!) and powercore4 pipe, but on the strength of reviews about the CO mode settings I did not order a programmer.

I have previously run a q4 on the stock header, and a pc4 on a megabomb header, both with a FMF programmer, as well as run stock with and without the EXUP connected. The PB+PC4 combo is easily the strongest feeling across the board, and thats before adjustments. Its also the loudest combo by a large margin, so imo the megabomb's claims to lower noise output are true. There are no more public trails in my state nor anywhere close enough that I really want to ride to, but I will probably eventually get the quiet insert as its mother thumpin loud lol.

I noticed that it felt great at WOT, but a bit flat in the mid-range and at mid-throttle openings. This correlates well with the most recommended programmer settings that mainly add fuel at cracked and partial throttle. This also correlates well with where most seem to agree that the CO mode adjustments do the most work.

I've been riding around for the last two days with no adjustments. Tonight I connected my jumper wire and go into CO mode. My stock setting was -2. +5 felt better, +8 better yet, and got up to +15 before it finally started to feel worse and backed down to my current setting of +12, which felt strongest of all the settings I tried. I then backed it down to -2 to make sure it made a difference, and it was significantly weaker so I put it back at 12. It pulls *MUCH* stronger off the bottom, lugs cleaner making for a better around-town ride, and pulls much stronger through the mid range and coming out of corners.

Thanks for saving me ~$200 on a programmer!
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Old 07-06-2011, 07:33 PM   #23080
gordo5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighFive View Post
I'm using the Motion Pro stick-on weights with no problem whatsoever.....thousands upon thousands of miles. On all my bikes. Both my WRR and F800 have same basic style of 21" front rim. Those thingys are fitting on mine just fine. I do turn them long-ways, so they don't stick out past the edge of rim. Less surface area sticking, but I've never had one come off yet....thru some mighty rough riding. I do clean the rim surface very well before applying them on. Putting them on the outside of the rim sidewall would not work very long....as you've learned.
Hey HF

I'm not quite sure how you mount them? I just took this snap with one siting on the front wheel as I think you're describing and it doesn't fit. I suppose it could go lengthwise in the middle of the wheel with some of that tape... Although I think I want to try Kawagumbly's technique.

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Old 07-06-2011, 09:12 PM   #23081
HighFive
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Location: Okiehoma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skierd View Post
Hot and humid, but not so bad out in the hills of appalachia. When might you be out this way?
Departing this weekend.....think I'll wind my way up to Virginia and pay College Boy a visit. Check on my investment and see if he's plucked a molar from that Dragon's Tooth yet. Probably be in that area middle of next week, if I don't get distracted along the way. Its a big country, you know.

May just have to pass thru the Dragon again....going or coming. I donno. I've got some unfinished business between there and Tellico Plains. But, I'd sure like to explore those WVA hills a whole lot more. Hhhhhmmmm.....

How's Vermont this time of year?

HF
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Old 07-06-2011, 09:20 PM   #23082
HighFive
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Originally Posted by gordo5 View Post
Hey HF

I'm not quite sure how you mount them? I just took this snap with one siting on the front wheel as I think you're describing and it doesn't fit.
Yeah....gordo, that's how I do it. But your weights look wider than mine. Motion Pro, you say.....interesting.

I scraped mine off last weekend getting ready to swap tires. Noticed I'm out of weights and have to buy some more. Mine were a few years old, as I purchased a whole box of them. Maybe they've changed the design....I'm not sure.

HF
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Old 07-07-2011, 12:30 AM   #23083
Dirtnadvil
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torque values needed

Hey guys I just refreshed the suspension and I am ready to put it all back together except I am not sure of the torque values. I need to know the torque specs for the pinch bolts on the triples and the torque specs for all of the swing arm, linkage, front and rear axels and the upper and lower shock mounts. They are probably all around 65 ft lbs but they seemed looser than that when I undid everthing. By the way if you haven't already pulled the rear suspension apart for a cleaning and regrease I wouldn't wait too long. The through bolt that connects the swing arm to the frame was rusty and coroided. Thanks.............John
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Old 07-07-2011, 04:48 AM   #23084
greer
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Torque #s

http://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/t5...que-s-for-bike

Sarah
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Old 07-07-2011, 05:45 AM   #23085
Nice_Rumble
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighFive View Post
How's Vermont this time of year?
Come on up. I'll show you around.
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