Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

[mwgak]

Little ride up the ridge

[Rider_WV]

Originally Posted by bhd1223

I feel you on that in the respect of not wanting to trash my own bike but if it's what I'll be riding then it's the best thing to learn on. That's why they make protective tid bits. If I do something rough enough to damage the bike beyond bending the handlebars then I'm sure I'll be in a bit of pain and won't be too concerned with riding. I almost want to bend the bars to force me to get new ones with a higher bend.

You see, I'll be riding the WR through the woods with or without this class. I figure it's a good idea to get a ground layer of quality instruction on skills that will help me succeed to cause less damage to the bike. The course that is with a provided bike wouldn't really help me in the woods, that would benefit me more if I got into MX, flat track, or started road racing again. I have a bad habit of developing bad habits by teaching myself to do things. I'd rather not begin my woods riding with bad habits. I figure for once I'll shell out some money for what looks like and has been reported to be quality instruction.

hey if you want some instructional DVD's that go over offroad basics, bike control, line selection, etc...

Check out www.shanewatts.com He has a few good Dvd's and also offers the dirtwise classes in different locations. I bought the dirtwise Dvd for my wife and it has a lot of great info and also slow riding techiniques you can practice in the yard.

[bpg]

Originally Posted by skierd

... While moving the tank to install my FMF programmer after deciding the CO mode was giving enough fuel, I dropped the tank and snapped the connector clean off. ...

I wish I had a spare pump to give you, sorry. Was wondering - you seemed happy with the CO method of adjusting the fueling a while back, I take it that you decided the programmer is worth it after all (guessing you meant to say "the CO mode was NOT giving enough fuel")? Thanks for the info, and hope you are on the road in no time!

[skierd]

Ill find out later today if one is on its way or not... or how long it will be from.service, etc.

And yeah, the co mode mostly works but isn't perfect. There.are.some.very.noticeable flat spots and the bike.feels lean at mid throttle. The plug looked lean too when I pulled it and the header turned a dark shade of blue which should indicate lean too.

[Rufjeep]

Originally Posted by skierd

Well, it finally happened. While moving the tank to install my FMF programmer after deciding the CO mode was giving enough fuel, I dropped the tank and snapped the connector clean off. Anyone have a spare fuel pump they removed in working condition as a precaution that they'd be willing to part with? Worst case I'll order one from Service Honda, but I need it asap and don't really have the $200+ for one... Fortunately I'm off work most of this week and can get a ride to work on the days I do work...

I've got one I just removed. PM me your address and I will send it your way.

[Rufjeep]

Originally Posted by Heoz

I forgot to ask, for those that have had fuel pump problems, are you all vigilant about checking that the gas pumps you use don't have methenol? Owner's manual says E10 is ok, but that methenol can cause damage to the fuel system. I actually had a bit of trouble at one gas station that didn't have anything posted on the pumps - the attendant's accent was so thick that I ended up asking 3 times. Luckily there was another person working there and they answered.

My fuel pump just failed (around 2600 miles). As I understand it, the problem with the batch of '08 models that are prone to failure had to do with too little clearnace within the pump, which leads to binding and, eventually, failure. Prior to the failure, the bike began to die at idle. Heat also seemed to aggrevate the issue (which would be consistent with too little tolerance within the pump). The bike would start in the morning, but after sitting in the hot parking lot all day, it would not. It also left me stranded on a long, hot ride...the bike would not start until it was completely cool.

The fuel pump also made some strange sounds; it did not have the steady whirring that I hear from the new pump. Instead, it often ramped up in pitch (which sounded alot like a pump does when it is priming itself).

Someone on here was talking about running without a fuel programer. Right now, I have the air box mod, an FMF slip on, and NO proggramer. The bike came that way, and it seems to run great (though I have not ridden one with a programer). I have pulled the plug, and it looks good. I notice no flat spots...it is was a carbed bike, I would feel like the jetting was spot on. The CO setting was at 5 when I got it, and I have it set at 3 now...can't say that i made much difference.

[JaiDee]

My Q4 is getting louder than I like and I need some advice.

I've read a number of threads on the different R2 sites and couldn't come up with an answer that everyone seems to agree with. The question seems like it should be easy enough to answer, but..... what is the part number for the CORRECT FMF Q4 muffler repacking material?

The venerable and always correct HighFive says one thing (FMF 4-stroke performance packing #0113940), while mwakey and others seem to say something else. What does the conventional wisdom say today?

Sorry if this is a redundant question, but I searched and couldn't find a recent definitive answer in either this thread or others.

Also, does anybody know of a good internet source for stainless steel steel wool and screen that I can use if I need to replace that portion of my Q4 should it be necessary?

Many thanks for any advice you can give!

-JD

[bhd1223]

Originally Posted by JaiDee

My Q4 is getting louder than I like and I need some advice.

I've read a number of threads on the different R2 sites and couldn't come up with an answer that everyone seems to agree with. The question seems like it should be easy enough to answer, but..... what is the part number for the CORRECT FMF Q4 muffler repacking material?

The venerable and always correct HighFive says one thing (FMF 4-stroke performance packing #0113940), while mwakey and others seem to say something else. What does the conventional wisdom say today?

Sorry if this is a redundant question, but I searched and couldn't find a recent definitive answer in either this thread or others.

Also, does anybody know of a good internet source for stainless steel steel wool and screen that I can use if I need to replace that portion of my Q4 should it be necessary?

Many thanks for any advice you can give!

-JD

Couldn't hurt to contact the company and see what they say. If I remember reading HF's write-up that is what he did after he noticed what he ordered didn't fit. They then told him what he should buy that will fit.

[mcwbyu82]

Originally Posted by Serevince

That's awesome. DETAILS?

Thanks

Vince

Sorry was out of town this weekend . . .

Nothing too complicated. Took my standard 3 button garage door opener(mine happens to be Liftmaster but most modern ones will be basically the same) and opened the plastic case. Inside you wont find any wires or anything. Its just a very small PCB(Printed Circuit Board) with tiny buttons soldered on that the big plastic buttons push.

Got a 8 inch long or so piece of very thin (not sure on the gage, it was scrap. about the size of the individual strands in phone or CAT5 cable) two strand wire. Soldered one end to two spots where the main button is soldered to the PCB. Since it is a momentary button depressing it closes the circuit so you can ad in this second button without needing to remove the original. I then spliced that wire with the wires that come attathced to the momentary button you see me push in the video. They are available from highwaydirtbikes.com Here:

http://www.highwaydirtbikes.com/HDB_...w&ref=pb_mom_b

I then used my dremmel to create a small notch in the side of the opener case so I could replace the PCB and close the case with the wire coming out the side.
I then cut a small piece of cardboard to cover the face of the opener so the big buttons wouldnt accidentally be pushed. Then I wrapped the entire thing in a couple layers of electrical tape. You can see in the video where the button is and the wire just runs under the "dashboard display" and I velcroed the unit to the back side of the headlight shroud up under the lip.

I should have taken pictures along the way but didnt, sorry.

The opener runs on a flat wafer style watch battery. I am curious to see if having to send signal through the bigger wires will drain it fast. Other than that I dont anitcipate any problems. First time I have to change the battery Ill take some pics. Would do it now but really dont want to unwrap all that electrical tape

Its been several days since the original post so here is the video for anyone wondering what on earth I am talking about

[JaiDee]

Originally Posted by bhd1223

Couldn't hurt to contact the company and see what they say. If I remember reading HF's write-up that is what he did after he noticed what he ordered didn't fit. They then told him what he should buy that will fit.

Usually, I'd do just as you suggest, go to the source. Unfortunately though, many have reported receiving incorrect and contradictory information from the folks at FMF. As a result I'd rather rely on what riders here have actually found works for them.

-JD

[MoBill]

Skierd, sending a PM

[Rufjeep]

I needed a rack, so I threw together this $15 cutting board rack the other evening. There's not alot of bling there, but I think it turned out pretty well...you have to squint to recongize it's culinary origins.

[SkidMarx]

Originally Posted by skierd

Well, it finally happened. While moving the tank to install my FMF programmer after deciding the CO mode was giving enough fuel, I dropped the tank and snapped the connector clean off. Anyone have a spare fuel pump they removed in working condition as a precaution that they'd be willing to part with? Worst case I'll order one from Service Honda, but I need it asap and don't really have the $200+ for one... Fortunately I'm off work most of this week and can get a ride to work on the days I do work...

It can be fixed.

It is not fun and you need the right tools, but it can be done.
That's 8mm brake line.

[greer]

I was in the same boat last fall, didn't know exactly what to buy either. I finally decided on the Moose Repack Cartridge #1860-0093, turned out to be a piece of cake. Here's a few pictures so you'll have a better idea:

http://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/t3...oose-cartridge

Sarah

Originally Posted by JaiDee

My Q4 is getting louder than I like and I need some advice.

I've read a number of threads on the different R2 sites and couldn't come up with an answer that everyone seems to agree with. The question seems like it should be easy enough to answer, but..... what is the part number for the CORRECT FMF Q4 muffler repacking material?

The venerable and always correct HighFive says one thing (FMF 4-stroke performance packing #0113940), while mwakey and others seem to say something else. What does the conventional wisdom say today?

Sorry if this is a redundant question, but I searched and couldn't find a recent definitive answer in either this thread or others.

Also, does anybody know of a good internet source for stainless steel steel wool and screen that I can use if I need to replace that portion of my Q4 should it be necessary?

Many thanks for any advice you can give!

-JD

[Rider_WV]

FYI on skid plate noise reduction.

I was putting roll in bedliner(Herculiner, sold by the quart at tractor supply and Advance Auto) in my Ural tub saturday, i had some left over so I yanked the skid plate off the WR, cleaned and prepped it. Then I added 1 thin coat, let it sit and then added 3 heavy coats to the inside of the skid plate. If i had more time i would have did the bottom of the frame rails too.

The results were very pleasing, the bike is significantly quieter.

Another 200 mile day on the WR, i am eating through 606's but damn i love this bike!

Next project will be a rear rack to mount a rollie for tools and tubes.