Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

[jimrobinette]

Skierd,

As a point of reference, after breaking my ankle, my bike didn't turn over or even have the key in it for almost four months months this past winter, and the day I went out to start it, it was running within four seconds....stock battery. No charger, no nothing! I know your bike doesn't sit, and it may not be the lightest battery, but it sure is dependable.

Originally Posted by skierd

Forgot my key again last night when I went to run an errand but changed my mind. Battery is about toast. Should I stick with stock or try one of the new fancy lightweight batteries? Remember my bike never sits for more than a few days and only that long if im real lazy and don't leave the house.

[StarkReiten]

Originally Posted by skierd

.... Battery is about toast. Should I stick with stock or try one of the new fancy lightweight batteries? ....

I wouldn't replace a bike battery with anything but an AGM type (like the stock one).

What I am wondering -- is why an AGM battery only lasted for 3 years. I sifted through a lot of the internet while deciding on a R², and don't recall any non weight related battery musings. So, any ideas what may have taken yours out?

[greer]

I'm not certain this particular Yuasa lasts as well as they generally do....seemed like it flopped after about 3.5 years in an XT I owned.

Sarah

[skierd]

Its likely dead because this is the 4th or 5th time I've completely discharged it at least. Now I should clarify, its not dead dead, just weaker than I want when I depend on my bike for daily transport. It struggled to start my bike yesterday after a few hours on the charger before work and after a vigorous 20min ride to work on the way home, but it did start, barely.

[Reposado1800]

I have had to put a battery tender pigtail on all my bikes. You can buy extra ones on Amazon. I have never seen them come separately at the store.

[RimBenty]

Originally Posted by Jäger

This ain't exactly about our WR's, but given the broad base of our readership of like minded souls, I'll try my luck here.

Instead, it was a nice ride that turned into a rescue mission thrashing around in the dark on ugly roads looking for two missing bicyclists 40 km the wrong way, headed into the Akimina-Kishinena with nothing but their lycra shorts and shirts, resulted in this:



So I'm really, really, really, really, really hoping, with all the accumulated knowledge we have here, somebody will chime up and say "Yes, that kind of damage can be fixed". I can't even contact the manufacturer, as they are some nameless entity in Oz.

I really am bummed, folks. So please, somebody tell me this can be fixed strong enough to withstand the beating of a multi day trip without the patch/repair separating, and who to take it to for fixing.



Thank you ever so much.

Jäger I have a similar bladder from Just GasTanks - http://www.justgastanks.com/store/in...oducts_id=1028
Haven't crash tested it but seems pretty tough. Maybe one of them will work for you.

[bigdon]

Originally Posted by Clayjars

I have had to put a battery tender pigtail on all my bikes. You can buy extra ones on Amazon. I have never seen them come separately at the store.

You can go to the auto parts store and buy two pronged trailer connectors.
The ones I buy have a connector on each end with a wire between them. Cut the wire and install ring connectors on the wires. Wa la you have two battery tender pigtails for about $3.00 US!
I usually mount one on my handlebars to power my tank bag. Works great and much cheaper than BMW plug.

[rydnseek]

Originally Posted by Jäger

This ain't exactly about our WR's, but given the broad base of our readership of like minded souls, I'll try my luck here.

I wonder if one of those patch kits for inflateable kayaks would work.. they are made with a real tough material.. pvc infused fabric, & i would think the solvent/adhesive would resist fuel. The location of the hole is tough.. the patch would have to wrap around it, but it might be worth a shot. It's useless as is, anyway.

You might also try a 2 patch fix.. put one on the inside, folded inward, & another on the outside.. after cleaning up the frayed bits, it might help it hold better.
scotty

[rydnseek]

Originally Posted by jimrobinette

Skierd,

As a point of reference, after breaking my ankle, my bike didn't turn over or even have the key in it for almost four months months this past winter, and the day I went out to start it, it was running within four seconds....stock battery. No charger, no nothing! I know your bike doesn't sit, and it may not be the lightest battery, but it sure is dependable.

+1 I've only had the stock battery in, with no tender. But i also rarely go long without riding it, so it doesn't sit long.

I had 3+ years from a stock drz battery, & am on my 3rd year with the wr. I do not see the cost/benefit in changing from an oem battery. The sealed batteries are much better than the old capped cell batteries.. no acid spilling with dumped over.

But if the battery has had a hard life.. lots of deep cycling, or sitting in a drained state, you can tell it's on it's last legs, & you might as well get a new one.

[GSBS]

[jon_l]

Originally Posted by bigdon

You can go to the auto parts store and buy two pronged trailer connectors.
The ones I buy have a connector on each end with a wire between them. Cut the wire and install ring connectors on the wires. Wa la you have two battery tender pigtails for about $3.00 US!
I usually mount one on my handlebars to power my tank bag. Works great and much cheaper than BMW plug.

Our bikes live on Battery Tender Jr., every time they sit overnight, unless away from home. To me it's like buying life insurance - just seems prudent to do it, so I do. Can't say what would have happened if I didn't use the BT; maybe nothing?

The Battery Tender Jr comes with 2 sets of harnesses, 1 with alligator clamps and one with ring terminals. After I use the ring terminal harness, I just cut off the clamps version, crimp and heat-shrink on 2 ring terminals, so I get 2 harnesses with every BT. And we have 3 BT Jrs, so I haven't run out of harnesses yet.

Extra harnesses are available from the manufacturer for less than $10, but so far I have never had to buy one.

[jon_l]

GSBS - Nice video.

Wow, you're fortunate to have riding like that right from your driveway. I'm jealous.

Like those Double-Take Mirrors too.

[GSBS]

Originally Posted by jon_l

GSBS - Nice video.

Wow, you're fortunate to have riding like that right from your driveway. I'm jealous.

Like those Double-Take Mirrors too.

Thanks!

Yes, I'm pretty happy where I live.

[DougZ73]

Real quick if anyone can help me out.

Torque specs for top and bottom rear shock mounting bolts. And top side chain roller too..if you have it.

I think I downloaded the manual, but damn if I know what I did with it.

EDIT: I found it on netbook. I got upper at 29 ft/lbs and 38 ft/lbs for lower. Please confirm.

[GSBS]

Originally Posted by DougZ73

Real quick if anyone can help me out.

Torque specs for top and bottom rear shock mounting bolts. And top side chain roller too..if you have it.

I think I downloaded the manual, but damn if I know what I did with it.

EDIT: I found it on netbook. I got upper at 29 ft/lbs and 38 ft/lbs for lower. Please confirm.

Yep... just looked in the service manual - 29 upper/38 lower.

And, it shows "17 ft/lbs for drive chain tensioner bolt (upper, lower)."