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Old 08-13-2011, 07:45 PM   #23866
bash3r
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Location: Wentzville, MO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DougZ73 View Post
Was $60 for four, or two?? For four, it is a good price. My bad if I read it wrong.

Really, I only need one...so if you wanted to do two for $30 shipped, I could do that. left and right rear.
I think I got stockers too.. front and rear laying around here.. PM me if you're interested
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Old 08-13-2011, 10:05 PM   #23867
trav72
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Supermoto track day. I was 1 of 2 WR's in a sea of orange. Once again, the bike was able to handle the task at hand. Even the many crashes I had in the morning sessions. In the afternoon we both stayed upright.

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Old 08-14-2011, 04:38 AM   #23868
AKASY
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Temp Light

Still running the modified TAT as Dual Sprting America here is the RR link if you are interested.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=710618&page=5
Yesterday I was running WFO in Nevada 77mph, almost arrow stright, sixth, 13\48 and temps were guessing around 80--just had a light rain, no traffic.

Temp light comes on after maybe 25 or so miles of this- back off about 10 mph and light goes off after a couple of minutes.

This has been reported before and this is the second time I've seen it on this triip.

Fuel low level light remains on all the time it does not initiate the fuel reserve trip meter either--will find the fix after the trip.

Some 5000+ miles into this trip with another 1000+ to go
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Old 08-14-2011, 09:05 AM   #23869
BadBrian
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New OwneR

I guess this means I'm in the club....


Got $3,400 tRade in on my '06 450F payed $3075 and Rode out with this...2011 250R
Not the woRlds best deal but I feel pRetty good, Really I'm just glad to finally get my R.
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Old 08-14-2011, 09:30 AM   #23870
HardWorkingDog
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Old 08-14-2011, 09:40 AM   #23871
10Cup
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Bad Brian, Sweet! You won't regret it!
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Old 08-14-2011, 09:43 AM   #23872
bhd1223
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You'll love the bike. I know I do. I recommend replacing the bars right away though. They really do bend extremely easy. When I take mine off to replace them I'll have to post up a picture.
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WR250R - perhaps the ideal motorcycle for myself
Throw in a passenger and I'm unsure of what I'd consider ideal. Maybe a Multi?
I am now for sure sold on the Dual Sport style bike.
Keeping the Vulcan for now. The ladies seem to love it.
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Old 08-14-2011, 10:30 AM   #23873
Nice_Rumble
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bhd1223 View Post
I recommend replacing the bars right away though.
If you ever want to run heated grips you'll want to retain the OEM steel bars. Aluminum bars act as a heat sink more than steel.
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Old 08-14-2011, 10:37 AM   #23874
RichardU
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nice_Rumble View Post
If you ever want to run heated grips you'll want to retain the OEM steel bars. Aluminum bars act as a heat sink more than steel.
You can run heated grips on aluminum bars, just won't be quite as hot. Helps to have insulation under the heater on the clutch side. Friction tape works.
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Old 08-14-2011, 11:02 AM   #23875
tonymorr
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Location: Malta, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichardU View Post
You can run heated grips on aluminum bars, just won't be quite as hot. Helps to have insulation under the heater on the clutch side. Friction tape works.
I bought my heated grips from Dual Star. They reccommended (and I bought) a length of heat shrink tube for the clutch side. They keep my hands warm when riding on the ice so I guess they work good enough!
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Old 08-14-2011, 12:23 PM   #23876
Bee
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Question New handelbars

Posted by BluePill Last November "NOTE ON ANY BAR CHANGE: The stock bars have two indexing holes on the right side to align the throttle and switch unit. You will have to either drill the new bars to match, or (what I did) grind off the tabs on the housings."

I am at this point right now and am wondering what others have done. Easiest is to grind off the tabs - but once you grind there's no going back! BluePill have you ever had any problems with the throttle cable housing or switches slipping?
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Old 08-14-2011, 12:23 PM   #23877
bhd1223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nice_Rumble View Post
If you ever want to run heated grips you'll want to retain the OEM steel bars. Aluminum bars act as a heat sink more than steel.
Fair enough but make sure the bars never touch the ground. I suppose triple clamp mounted handguards may help but the OEM steel bars bend easily.
__________________
WR250R - perhaps the ideal motorcycle for myself
Throw in a passenger and I'm unsure of what I'd consider ideal. Maybe a Multi?
I am now for sure sold on the Dual Sport style bike.
Keeping the Vulcan for now. The ladies seem to love it.
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Old 08-14-2011, 12:34 PM   #23878
bhd1223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bee View Post
Posted by BluePill Last November "NOTE ON ANY BAR CHANGE: The stock bars have two indexing holes on the right side to align the throttle and switch unit. You will have to either drill the new bars to match, or (what I did) grind off the tabs on the housings."

I am at this point right now and am wondering what others have done. Easiest is to grind off the tabs - but once you grind there's no going back! BluePill have you ever had any problems with the throttle cable housing or switches slipping?
Just grind/file them off. I'll be doing that once I decide on the bars I'm getting to replace my bent stockers. I've done it on other bikes with no problems. When you adjust all the controls to yourself you'll find everything "pinned" needs to move as well to retain the same easy activation movements. I was so lazy when I did this on the stock bars I just loosened them up until I could pull the pin out then just tightened them back down elsewhere, I didn't file off the pins. I had the turn signal box pivot on me once. Some people like to put electrical tape under these "de-pinned" items so they have something to dig into and grip as opposed to the smooth plastic on smooth metal. Others like to put teflon tape under everything on the bars so it spins easier even when tightened down. I don't do either. Usually for the electrical switch boxes I just grind/file the pins and then attach them and tighten them to the point they don't move without some effort forcing them. It's easy enough and works.

If you never plan on moving your controls then I guess pinning them may work but if you want to try different bar positions you'll be rotating everything around drilling a lot of holes thereby weakening your bar. Just leave the bars as they come. What's the worst that happens? Your turn signal box spins on the bar when cancelling the signal and you have to grab it to correct it's position before activating the signal again?
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WR250R - perhaps the ideal motorcycle for myself
Throw in a passenger and I'm unsure of what I'd consider ideal. Maybe a Multi?
I am now for sure sold on the Dual Sport style bike.
Keeping the Vulcan for now. The ladies seem to love it.

bhd1223 screwed with this post 08-14-2011 at 12:39 PM
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Old 08-14-2011, 12:46 PM   #23879
RichardU
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bee View Post
I am at this point right now and am wondering what others have done.
I have ground off the pins on about a dozen bikes. No problems. Use friction tape under if you need more grip. If you drill a hole, it will probably not be in the right place, or you may decide to adjust your bars later, and you're stuck.
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Old 08-14-2011, 12:49 PM   #23880
craftycoder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichardU View Post
I have ground off the pins on about a dozen bikes. No problems. Use friction tape under if you need more grip. If you drill a hole, it will probably not be in the right place, or you may decide to adjust your bars later, and you're stuck.
Agreed
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