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Old 08-15-2011, 05:23 AM   #23896
HighFive
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skierd View Post
Woo Michaux was a lot of fun! Did better than I expected on the C options, didn't bother trying the B or A options lol. The looks I got coming down the trail on a motard were worth the rocks and LOTS of rain.



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Old 08-15-2011, 06:43 AM   #23897
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirthauler View Post
ya it was quite an ordeal, had to buy the spoke by the size not by the application, i had central maine power sports do the doing of i for me, they got the spokes from excel first and found them just a little bit short, seems the spoke mount point on an f hub is just about 3/32" further from the hub than on out r, called buchanan and they said yep sure no problem and mailed out a set for and f, mailed em back and said no, for an r, ho, we're sorry they say, here and mailed another set.....for an f! then finaly got what was needed, and each spoke had to be cut about 5mm and threads cut onto them a little longer then they were from buchanon. anyway, short tale told long, call 207-689-2345 ask for ryan, or ben in parts, and tell them that you need to know the particulars on the spokes that they got for todd's wr250r
Thanks for all the info. I missed this reply earlier.

You have any idea what the spokes were( from what bike) that they finally sent you??
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Old 08-15-2011, 07:00 AM   #23898
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What's the verdict on a programmer?

Right now, I am running with the flapper box mod and an FMF Q4 with no programmer. I have adjusted the CO settings and the bike seems to run fine (no flat spots, hesitation, etc). But, I do alot of slow, technical riding and the fan comes on fairly frequently (but it is 90 degrees outside). My header is not at all discolored, no hanging idle, no nothing aside from the fan that would lead me to think the bike is lean.

BUT, there is that lingering worry. Is the programmer needed? And, does it result in an appreciable increase in performance? I've done alot of research, and I know that some guys were just adjusting the CO settings. Has there been a concise verdict on this? Anyone done anything remotely scientific to see if the CO adjustments alone were deliverying an acceptable air/ fuel ration across the range?

Thanks.
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Old 08-15-2011, 07:09 AM   #23899
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Check your radiator cap

For all you guys running hot, you might want to consider another source of the problem. I eventually traced my overheating problem to a small amount of smudge on the rubbery seal inside the radiator cap that prevented it from doing its job properly. I cleaned it thoroughly and no more fan or light for me.

RichardU screwed with this post 08-15-2011 at 08:49 AM
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Old 08-15-2011, 08:17 AM   #23900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichardU View Post
For all you guys running hot, you might want to consider another source of the problem. I eventually traced my overheating problem to a small amount of smudge on the rubbery seal inside the radiator cap that prevented it from doing its job properly. No more fan or light for me.
And if M/C radiator caps bear any similarity to auto radiator caps, it's a cheap part to replace.
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Old 08-15-2011, 10:27 AM   #23901
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Originally Posted by bash3r View Post
Bee.... i have a few videos of my install, maybe it will help you out: http://www.basherdesigns.com/2010/01...bars-and-more/

Thanks bash3r, very helpful.
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Old 08-15-2011, 10:56 AM   #23902
jtmajors
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vibration

I have a 2010 x so stock gearing is 13/42. Recently I did some mods like evo bars and pro grip gel grips as well as new sprockets and chain. The bike had some vibration at hwy speeds but I blamed it on the stock bars and grips. I thought with the new bars and grips I could almost eliminate the vibration. With changing the bars and grips I also decided to change the gearing so I put on a 14 front renthal sprocket, 48 rear supersprocket and an x ring DID chain. At 60mph I feel minimal to no vibration but once I hit 65 I start to feel it and by the time I hit 85 it's vibrating the crap out of my hands and arms. I went on about an 80 mile ride the other day at constant speeds from 35 to 75 and when I got back home my hands and arms were tingling bad.

Is all of this normal for this bike? My last street bike was a Triumph Daytona 675 so did not feel vibration like this but everyone raves about this bike being able cruise at hwy speeds all day long with little to no vibration so thinking something may be wrong with mine or gearing is to low for the hwy.
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jtmajors screwed with this post 08-15-2011 at 11:18 AM
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Old 08-15-2011, 11:31 AM   #23903
onetravdown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtmajors View Post
I have a 2010 x so stock gearing is 13/42. Recently I did some mods like evo bars and pro grip gel grips as well as new sprockets and chain. The bike had some vibration at hwy speeds but I blamed it on the stock bars and grips. I thought with the new bars and grips I could almost eliminate the vibration. With changing the bars and grips I also decided to change the gearing so I put on a 14 front renthal sprocket, 48 rear supersprocket and an x ring DID chain. At 60mph I feel minimal to no vibration but once I hit 65 I start to feel it and by the time I hit 85 it's vibrating the crap out of my hands and arms. I went on about an 80 mile ride the other day at constant speeds from 35 to 75 and when I got back home my hands and arms were tingling bad.

Is all of this normal for this bike? My last street bike was a Triumph Daytona 675 so did not feel vibration like this but everyone raves about this bike being able cruise at hwy speeds all day long with little to no vibration so thinking something may be wrong with mine or gearing is to low for the hwy.
You gearing isn't to low. But you did make things worse by going from the stock steel bar to the aluminum bar as far as vibrations go. Try filling the aluminum bar with BB's or try this http://www.barsnake.com/
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Old 08-15-2011, 11:50 AM   #23904
jtmajors
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trav72 View Post
You gearing isn't to low. But you did make things worse by going from the stock steel bar to the aluminum bar as far as vibrations go. Try filling the aluminum bar with BB's or try this http://www.barsnake.com/

I could have sworn in my research that someone said they felt less vibration with the evo's over stock. Guess I didn't research enough it sounds like. I like the look of the evo's so much more though.

Anybody tried the bar snake or something similar? I've gotta do something cuz hope to ride this bike from Texas to New Mexico and do the the continental divide ride. Lots of freeway between here and there.
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Old 08-15-2011, 11:57 AM   #23905
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Any aluminum bar will increase vibrations over steel.
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Old 08-15-2011, 11:58 AM   #23906
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trav72 View Post
You gearing isn't to low. But you did make things worse by going from the stock steel bar to the aluminum bar as far as vibrations go. Try filling the aluminum bar with BB's or try this http://www.barsnake.com/

Interesting. I've read the EVO bars actually reduced vibrations.

On another but similar note, I just bit the bullet on my handlebar replacement. I opted for the Tusk Chub bar w/ YZ bend, the Tusk universal big bar clamp (0.75" rise), some Spider Grips SLX grips, and a big bar mount for my handguards. On the next bar bend problem I may opt to switch out for Cycra guards with the triple clamp mount as that should add additional resistance to bending from a crash. They'll be here in a few days an I'll put it all on, take pictures and report back. Hopefully my thumb/wrist should be up to the task of at least street and yard riding by the time it's all installed.

Bar Stats:
31.6" W
3.5" H
2.31" PB

Planned Installed Stats:
30.6" W
4.25" H
Whatever PB is created from trimming 0.5", so < 2.31"; Just thinking right now I expect it to be 2.25" < PB < 2.31"
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Old 08-15-2011, 12:25 PM   #23907
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtmajors View Post
I could have sworn in my research that someone said they felt less vibration with the evo's over stock. Guess I didn't research enough it sounds like. I like the look of the evo's so much more though.

Anybody tried the bar snake or something similar? I've gotta do something cuz hope to ride this bike from Texas to New Mexico and do the the continental divide ride. Lots of freeway between here and there.
Bark busters help cut vibes.
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Old 08-15-2011, 12:28 PM   #23908
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How neat would it be to have a second set of stock motard wheels with knobbies for those dirt trips. I have seen a few DRZ400 motards with 17" knobbies and they do fairly well off road.

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Old 08-15-2011, 12:30 PM   #23909
jtmajors
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clayjars View Post
Bark busters help cut vibes.
I have the zeta armor handguards already installed. Assume they would be just like the barkbusters.
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Old 08-15-2011, 01:04 PM   #23910
greer
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jt,

Alum bars make vibes much worse for me, too. I swapped right back to stock and use risers. Before you spend $$ on a bar snake, you might try a Google search for some home grown tricks. Lead shot, fishing weights, silicone.....Good luck and let us know how it goes. Take a look at the Oury Road Grips, too.

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