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Old 08-17-2011, 04:32 PM   #23956
DougZ73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ramz View Post
Actually, you can only create a fuel map for a limited number of throttle openings (usually full throttle) and engine RPM, and only one gear by using a dyno. If you want a close-to-perfect fuel map, you need something like the DynoJet Power Commander V and the partner Auto Tune unit. With these and an O2 sensor in the exhaust, you can get AFR values for every 10% of throttle opening, every 250 RPM, and for all 6 gears. This includes whatever mods you've done to the intake/exhaust or any other engine related system on the bike, now or in the future. Further, the AFR values are used to correct the actual fuel injected pulse WHILE you are riding at whatever elevation and temperature you happen to be riding at and whatever speed you select. And it calculates these changes every time you ride your moto. And YOU select the target AFR values you want: performance vs economy. You can also lock in a map at any time as well.

Dyno generated maps and the FMF Power Programmer (and related units) are a good first step to getting better performance (and possible reliability), but the PC V and AT are far more powerful tools. The cost, about $1100, may put some people off, but I can tell you that as far as I am concerned, the cost is more than acceptable.

Theory is great, but the actual values you want are found to be different. I was advised by Eddie Sisneros, the ThumperTalk tuning moderator, the following:

Eddie Sisneros 11/12/09

You will find that above 14.0 the bike will run bad; I would not go leaner than 14.0.
12.8 is also rich for max power production; you will want 13.0-13.2.

I would set the 100% throttle column at 13.0 and the rest of the columns except 0% to 14.0.
This will give you good economy at any partial throttle openings and best power when you open the throttle fully.

If you decide you want better driveability than what 14.0 offers at partial throttle, you can test 13.5 to 13.8.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Check it out:
http://rickramsey.net/WR250Rtuning.htm
I did say shadetree.
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Old 08-17-2011, 04:37 PM   #23957
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rufjeep View Post
Hardworking Dog...I didn't mean anything remotely antaganistic in my response to you about the programmer. I appreciate your feedback...
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Old 08-18-2011, 05:01 AM   #23958
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How do I get out of the diagnostic mode ??

I was adjusting the EXUP cables and did the "hold 2 buttons down,switch on,toggle to Diag and hold the 2 buttons down to confirm diag mode.Then went to test 53 and worked the EXUP. After I finished, my understanding is when the switch is turned off the pcm exits the diag mode.Not happening..

Now when I do the "two buttons down,turn switch on " it goes to the Diag mode and I can't get it back to the Co mode.

Probably got the sequence wrong or something like that...any one else have this problem??

Anybody know what I'm doing wrong ??
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Old 08-18-2011, 05:22 AM   #23959
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My experience...

Quote:
Originally Posted by mordicai View Post
I would not open the airbox and put a flow through muffler on my WRR without using a programmer, unless I wanted to try and put holes in my piston.
Added FMF PC4 pipe - no programmer - at 8K miles. Simultaneously removed EXUP and AIS stuff, opened up airbox, added K&N air filter. Went into CO mode and rode the bike, set CO, rode some more, tried another setting, etc. etc. Ended up running best at +4 (factory setting was at -3 or -4). Checked spark plug 100 miles later and it looked just right (not too light or too dark).

The bike absolutely rips. I can't think of a place in the powerband I'd change. So I see no need for a programmer.

FWIW, the bike is now at nearly 15K and it's been run hard (often up against the rev limiter). Not a hiccup. YRMV, but that's my experience for almost 7K miles without a programmer.
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Old 08-18-2011, 06:05 AM   #23960
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSBS View Post
Added FMF PC4 pipe - no programmer - at 8K miles. Simultaneously removed EXUP and AIS stuff, opened up airbox, added K&N air filter. Went into CO mode and rode the bike, set CO, rode some more, tried another setting, etc. etc. Ended up running best at +4 (factory setting was at -3 or -4). Checked spark plug 100 miles later and it looked just right (not too light or too dark).

The bike absolutely rips. I can't think of a place in the powerband I'd change. So I see no need for a programmer.

FWIW, the bike is now at nearly 15K and it's been run hard (often up against the rev limiter). Not a hiccup. YRMV, but that's my experience for almost 7K miles without a programmer.
How much di dyou open your airbox? Flapper mod or even more than that?
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Old 08-18-2011, 06:15 AM   #23961
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rufjeep View Post
How much di dyou open your airbox? Flapper mod or even more than that?
It now has no top. Removed flapper completely.

BTW, the bike actually runs cooler since doing the mods. The radiator fan seldom comes on unless it's really hot and I'm barely moving. Before removing the EXUP, AIS and opening airbox, adding pipe, it would come on much sooner.
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Old 08-18-2011, 06:37 AM   #23962
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSBS View Post
Added FMF PC4 pipe - no programmer - at 8K miles. Simultaneously removed EXUP and AIS stuff, opened up airbox, added K&N air filter. Went into CO mode and rode the bike, set CO, rode some more, tried another setting, etc. etc. Ended up running best at +4 (factory setting was at -3 or -4). Checked spark plug 100 miles later and it looked just right (not too light or too dark).

The bike absolutely rips. I can't think of a place in the powerband I'd change. So I see no need for a programmer.

FWIW, the bike is now at nearly 15K and it's been run hard (often up against the rev limiter). Not a hiccup. YRMV, but that's my experience for almost 7K miles without a programmer.
I missed the memo. How do you go into CO mode on the dash. Is there a "how to" in the shop manual?
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Old 08-18-2011, 06:46 AM   #23963
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Further, how do you set CO mode on a US model with no O2 sensor??

Did you have one added on?
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Old 08-18-2011, 06:56 AM   #23964
GSBS
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I posted a detailed how-to...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Clayjars View Post
I missed the memo. How do you go into CO mode on the dash. Is there a "how to" in the shop manual?
...here several months ago in this thread. Mine is a 2010 model. A buddy who showed me how to access the CO mode has a 2008 model and the procedure was the same. I have no idea if there's anything in the shop manual about this. I have one, but never looked. Just followed my buddy's instructions. He'd had his set up like this for about a year or longer when we did mine in February.

We did have to jump a wire to ground from the lean angle sensor to allow us to access the onboard diagnostics mode.

GSBS screwed with this post 08-18-2011 at 07:09 AM
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Old 08-18-2011, 07:14 AM   #23965
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In the service manual Diagnostic Mode states:

Turn main switch to off and engine stop switch to on. Disconnect fuel pump connector. Press and hold Select 1 and Reset, while holding them turn main switch to on and continue holding them for 8 seconds or more. Clock and trip should be only thing displayed. dlAG appears on the clock. Use Select 1 to select the CO or dlAG modes. After selecting press the Select and Reset buttons for 2 seconds or more to execute. The rest goes on to explain the diagnostic stuff and not CO settings but I think I read about those just using Select 1 and Select 2 to adjust the setting. I'm not sure how to save them or exit after selecting but it might be the same as the link provided above.

I suspect this is another way to get to CO mode without jumping anything.
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Old 08-18-2011, 08:06 AM   #23966
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Thanks guys! That is what I was looking for. Sure is cool to be able to adjust the mixture from the dash. Bike value just went up.
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Old 08-18-2011, 08:21 AM   #23967
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Running my stock WR yesterday afternoon. Ran about 4 miles at 1/2 throttle then hit highway back home. Running full throttle in 6th gear for about 1 mile then shifted to 5th. Ran at full throttle for about oth 3/4 to 1 mile and hot light comes on. I let of throttle to about 1/2 or less and hot light went out in about 30 seconds. I was running slightly uphill and the ambient temperature was 106f.
Do I have a problem?
I am going to check water level and fan this afternoon.
Radiator fins are clean.
What else?

Thanks guys, going to Western TAT at end of month and would rather not worry about bike getting hot. I have run it hard many times with never a problem. Why now?
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Old 08-18-2011, 08:29 AM   #23968
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Question for those running a No-Toil Filter. I got one the other day for my WR250X, but noticed it's a bit different than other No-Toil Filters I've seen which have a hole in the filter and then part of the cage goes through that hole with a piece that holds the filter to the cage (see pic below). The one I got for my WR250X doesn't seem to have that though. There is a hole in the filter itself, but the cage doesn't have any provisions to "attach" to the filter. Is that the way yours is?


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Old 08-18-2011, 08:30 AM   #23969
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdon View Post
Running my stock WR yesterday afternoon. Ran about 4 miles at 1/2 throttle then hit highway back home. Running full throttle in 6th gear for about 1 mile then shifted to 5th. Ran at full throttle for about oth 3/4 to 1 mile and hot light comes on. I let of throttle to about 1/2 or less and hot light went out in about 30 seconds. I was running slightly uphill and the ambient temperature was 106f.
Do I have a problem?
I am going to check water level and fan this afternoon.
Radiator fins are clean.
What else?

Thanks guys, going to Western TAT at end of month and would rather not worry about bike getting hot. I have run it hard many times with never a problem. Why now?
A lot of people remove the plastic shroud from behind the radiator. I have removed mine and my bike sees plenty of high rpm, slow speed, single track use in the Oklahoma heat and I have never had my temp light come on. You might want to try removing that while you're checking fluid levels and fan fuses.
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Old 08-18-2011, 08:35 AM   #23970
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I dont think the fan coming on at highway speeds would do anything for the cooling of the bike anyways, i was also going to suggest removing the shroud behind the radiator.
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