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Old 10-08-2011, 06:11 AM   #24901
bpg
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Charlotte, NC (summer back home in western PA)
Oddometer: 563
fuel programmer = well worth it, even with stock exhaust

Just wanted to throw this out there for those on the fence about buying a fuel programmer:

I picked a used FMF Power Programmer (thanks Skierd!) and put it on my mostly stock bike - flapper valve removed and ultimate airbox modification are my only performance mods. Bone stock exhaust, AIS still there, EXUP still functioning.

I went with 1.5 - 2.5 - 1 - 8 - 4 - 4.5 Again, this is for stock exhaust - when I add the Q4 I can bump the first two #s up a bit.

Even with that minimal set-up and adding just a bit of fuel to acceleration and cruise modes, the programmer made a very noticeable difference. It is much more manageable at low speeds (no on/off throttle - you can actually "cruise" in first gear), pulls much stronger, and cruises a lot smoother @ speed. Obviously this will make the bike a lot more fun in the dirt, but also makes the street riding significantly smoother & more enjoyable. While we all know the stock fueling is lean and kind of "notch-y", it was really highlighted with the improvements gained by the programmer - so much better!

Take home point, a fuel programmer is well worth the $$, even with a slightly modified bike/stock exhaust - you just can't add as much fuel as the folks with aftermarket pipes or pipes/headers.

Should have done this when I bought the bike!
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bpg screwed with this post 10-08-2011 at 07:36 AM
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Old 10-08-2011, 06:15 AM   #24902
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All that said, I'm doing the rest of the mods today (FMF Q4 slip-on, AIS & EXUP delete) - as impressed as I was with the programmer + stock exhaust, I kind of get the feeling I'm in for yet another level of pleasant surprises...
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Old 10-08-2011, 07:35 AM   #24903
Pantah
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Location: India Wharf
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Riding in the Cold...

Quote:
Originally Posted by bhd1223 View Post
Hello all,

I'm in the market for some new cold weather gear. The stuff that worked well a few years and a few bikes ago just doesn't seem to cut it any more. It may be the WR puts a bit more air on the body than the other bikes too. I'm looking for some gear that is warm and is good for on and off the trail. I know I've seen some recent pictures of folks in harescrambles with what looks like warm full body gear that isn't of the motocross variety. Also, just for the hell of it, is there any good on and off the trail warm weather riding gear as well? Maybe something that fits both segments.

I know some of you long distance travelers have some good advice for me. Back when I was in the military I could manage a cold commute of less than 30 minutes in just about anything. Now that I'm commuting for an hour or more to school the weather starts bothering me about half way in and make the rest of the trip miserable. Sure, I guess I can just man up and take it but why ruin the fun of riding. I'm also concerned about bulk. If I'm traveling to school I prefer to not leave much on the bike and would prefer to be able to wear it or some of it with little issue. I don't mind looking a bit funny but when I'm walking around at 3x my size that doesn't work well. Swishing is also not something I'm happy with.

I've never really looked into heated gear and would prefer not to but if it's the best option I guess I'll have to consider it. Gloves and boots are of great concern for cold weather. I've yet to find anything warm that isn't too bulky with no feeling of the controls. Maybe heated is the way to go with those items. I'm planning on riding in some snowy offroad this winter so warmth is important, I think.

Thanks for any help you can provide,
Brian
Heated jacket liner under a waterproof jacket is the only way IMO.

My KTM twin also has heated grips and I use waterproof Black Diamond mountaineering gloves (thin palms) with the grips. However, Powerlet just came out with some thin heated glove liners for $79 so I bought a pair and tried them out in the Rockies on my W2R just 2 weeks ago. They plug into the jacket liner sleeves and have no wires inside so there were like a second skin and I didn't have to try and tap into a switched circuit around the headlamp. I wore them inside my montaineering gloves.

http://www.powerlet.com/product/rapi...love-liner/481

They work much better than heated grips, but my jacket liner is an old single controller style, so I can't adjust the temp of the gloves seperate from the jacket liner. As a result, I didn't plug in the glove liners unless it was around freezing. The new dual controller type jackets are the best option with any kind of heated gloves.

These things plug into a wiring harness you connect directly to your battery. The harness has a fuse, so it's very simple and all the clothing plugs are powerlet style. I ran my plug out the front of my seat between it and the tank, so its handy. I clip my heat controller to my tank bag.

I originally ran the jacket liner under a textile waterproof enduro jacket from Acerbis, but any brand works. All you need is a Gortex shell type jacket with a nice neck seal. I also found a Biker's Comfort balaclava can be handy on sub freezing days.

I don't use heated stuff under my pants. In fact, the most I've ever used is longjohns, and probably only once or twice in 12 years.

Today for a hacket and pants, I use the TPG stuff that I bought last year. It's got too many pockets and zippers, though. The only advantage over the Acerbis enduro gear is it has venting for summer riding...plus the fact that I outgrew the old stuff...

Heated jacket liners are around $200. They come with the wiring harness. The controller can be another $50-$70 or so. The glove liners were $79. That makes for about a $350 investment. It's worth it, though. Lasts forever too.

PS: I don't commute. My rides are long distance in all kinds of weather. I don't stop to add rain gear and such, hence all my outer wear is Gortex.
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Old 10-08-2011, 08:23 AM   #24904
grubbie
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Quick video of a ride the wife and I took in the Bear Lodge Mts near Sundance, WY. My WR still doesnt have a lot of mods, running a 13/46 sprocket set, flatland rear rack and skid plate, acerbis hand guards, IMS 3 gallon tank. Put on a Michelin T63 rear tire this year and I'm very impressed with it. Other than that it's stock, no programmer, no airbox mods......

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8OAq4...el_video_title
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Old 10-08-2011, 09:07 AM   #24905
ArmyJoe
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Location: Columbus, OH
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I recently bought a 2008 and the original owner did a tail chop. He said he put it back to stock, but it just doesn't look right. I went to the local dealer to compare, but they don't have one in stock. I would appreciate if someone could post pictures of a stock tail or could help me figure out what to undo.

Here's the view from the rear. The black housing around the tail light looks like it was cut and the turn signals are mounted to the frame.



Here's the view from the bottom, the rear stay bracket looks too far forward and is only secured with two bolts.



Thanks,
Joe
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Old 10-08-2011, 09:57 AM   #24906
bhd1223
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Location: CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmyJoe View Post
I recently bought a 2008 and the original owner did a tail chop. He said he put it back to stock, but it just doesn't look right. I went to the local dealer to compare, but they don't have one in stock. I would appreciate if someone could post pictures of a stock tail or could help me figure out what to undo.

Here's the view from the rear. The black housing around the tail light looks like it was cut and the turn signals are mounted to the frame.



Here's the view from the bottom, the rear stay bracket looks too far forward and is only secured with two bolts.



Thanks,
Joe

It looks a bit off to me without going to look at mine to compare. I believe that metal bracket should be connected to the lower bolts which should make the gap at the top go away. I'll be able to get back to you later with a picture if you'd like.
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Old 10-08-2011, 10:15 AM   #24907
Pantah
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You are missing two mounting points. There are 4 bolt holes in the subframe that you bolt the light hangar to. I think my tail plate bolts to the same points.

In any event, the hangar is clearly mounted too far forward by the length of the hangar bolt pattern. As you noted, you shouldn't have the forward attaching points dangling in thin air. I'd take a picture of mine, but it isn't around.

He must've cut the subframe. You can probably get something welded back on to properly attach the lights.
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Old 10-08-2011, 10:49 AM   #24908
HardWorkingDog
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Location: Walnut Crick, Cal.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmyJoe View Post
I recently bought a 2008 and the original owner did a tail chop. He said he put it back to stock, but it just doesn't look right...I would appreciate if someone could post pictures of a stock tail or could help me figure out what to undo.
Here's some photos I took while installing the PMB rear rack. Hope it helps.







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Old 10-08-2011, 10:56 AM   #24909
sturgeon
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Location: Great White North
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Here's a couple of mine from approx the same angles ... definitely some plastic missing from yours where the signals mount into the taillight assembly.

Excuse the manure cling-ons - I was riding down some farm lanes in Mennonite country yesterday



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Old 10-08-2011, 11:01 AM   #24910
EnderTheX
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Location: DFW Area, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HardWorkingDog View Post
Here's some photos I took while installing the PMB rear rack. Hope it helps.

Those two bolts towards the front of the bike don't look like they are engaging the nylon portion of the lock nut. I would recommend 5mm longer bolts
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Old 10-08-2011, 11:10 AM   #24911
Andrew
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A question for the crowd: Is it easier to make an R work better on the street than it is to make an X work better off-road? Or vice-versa? I'm still on the fence, looking at an in-town ride for most of the time, with option to roll off-road on occasion. Seems the larger front rotor on the X is a big point in its favor for street riding, and easy enough to swap wheels/hubs for both models.
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Old 10-08-2011, 11:13 AM   #24912
HardWorkingDog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EnderTheX View Post
Those two bolts towards the front of the bike don't look like they are engaging the nylon portion of the lock nut. I would recommend 5mm longer bolts
I'll file that under "no good deed goes unpunished."

Yeah, I noticed that too, I think when I took the photo I hadn't tightened the bolts completely. The nylock nuts aren't even necessary, the rack frame has welded nuts the bolts engage, I stuck the second layer in just to cover up the protrusions, figured it would snag less crap that way, and serve as a backup lock nut as well. I did go out and look, they're still there and the end of the bolt is maybe 1 mm shy of complete engagement. Thanks!

(loved the Ender series by OSC--is that the source of your name?)
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Old 10-08-2011, 11:16 AM   #24913
cug
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I was in the same situation: I was looking for an R, but couldn't find one. Several X models where for sale, I finally found one. If your goal is to have both sets of wheels including brakes and sprocket, it is slightly cheaper to start out with an X as the R wheels and brakes are cheaper.

In the end, when all is bought, the difference might be below $300, I wouldn't worry all too much about that.
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Old 10-08-2011, 11:20 AM   #24914
HardWorkingDog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew View Post
A question for the crowd: Is it easier to make an R work better on the street than it is to make an X work better off-road? Or vice-versa? I'm still on the fence, looking at an in-town ride for most of the time, with option to roll off-road on occasion. Seems the larger front rotor on the X is a big point in its favor for street riding, and easy enough to swap wheels/hubs for both models.
Easy enough, although the second set is going to run you $1200-1500 or so. Many X owners just put a rear knobby on the front and don't look back, see Rydnseek (or WoodsChick, although she's on a silly Husky )

I'm more dirt first, so I never considered the X. I still have fun riding over Mt. Diablo with the R, and it's smaller front rotor has plenty of braking (my last street bike was a YZF600R, which I think is still in the top 10 of MCN's brake test results).
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Old 10-08-2011, 11:25 AM   #24915
ArmyJoe
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Thanks, guys. That did the trick. With the photos and a schematic / parts list I found online, I should be able to fix it.

Any suggestion on a source for cheap OEM parts? Just the mudguard itself is listed at $173 MSRP.
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