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Old 10-12-2011, 01:24 AM   #24961
Mr. Fisherman
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Joined: Oct 2006
Location: Drinking from the Stanley Cup!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EnderTheX View Post
This is true... I agonized over my choice to get the FMF exhaust because I still wanted to use my Giant Loop bag...

I was too lazy to make a heat shield and didn't want to risk burning my bag so I bought the woflman racks instead
I use the Giantloop heat shield and save enough weight to pack more beer YMMV
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Old 10-12-2011, 08:18 AM   #24962
Jimster
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Question WR250R with high miles

Hi,

I've been lurking on this thread for a while, and I'm sure I've forgotten more than I've retained.

Two WR250R's are for sale in my neck of the woods one with 9,000 miles, and one with 10,000 miles. Both look basically stock. The 9,000m has Knobby tires, and the 10,000m has street oriented tires both have stock exhaust and no skid plates.

Just wondering if anyone has an opinion on what a high mile bike is worth, or should I stay away. My preference is for something with lower miles, but I might give one of these a look.

How much maintenance would be required at 10,000 miles, bearings, brakes, valves, general engine concerns, etc.

Your opinions are valued.
Thanks

86 XR250R
89 NX250
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Old 10-12-2011, 08:33 AM   #24963
skierd
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Trying to remember what I had to do to mine at 10k miles...


Oh right, nothing as usual.

You've got another 16,000 miles till the first valve check/adjustment. I'd change the fluids just because then continue riding the piss out of it. If you're feeling froggy grease the suspension if the previous owner hasn't and maybe do the head bearings (mine were fine at 17k when I finally had them done).

Mine's got 29,9xx miles as of this morning's commute and has only not started once when I had a spark plug break and only has had the valve cover off once, at 25000 miles to do the valves. Rest has been oil changes, 2 coolant changes (1x per year), flushed brake fluid last year, had the suspension rebuilt once at ~17k just to do it, grease the suspension in the spring and the fall (I ride year round, haven't had a car since 2009 until a few weeks ago). Its on its second replacement chain and sprocket set, second set of brake pads (originals replaced at 25k-ish miles but were still serviceable) third chain slider, and I think 8th set of tires. I want to replace the radiator hoses this winter as they stockers are starting to look old and bulgy in places, but it is a 2008 that I bought new in January '10 so they're getting old. I'll probably do the battery too finally.

Value? I had some nibbles when I was thinking about selling mine earlier this spring for around $3000 with significantly more miles, so I'd wager around $3500 would be about right for a clean, well maintained, mostly street ridden bike with 9-10k on the clock, stock or not.
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skierd screwed with this post 10-12-2011 at 08:38 AM
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Old 10-12-2011, 08:45 AM   #24964
ironbrewer
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Location: Was in Colorado now in The Northwet, Washington
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I'm going to put heated grips on my new to me 08 WRr. Where are people wiring them into. I would like to have them keyed to the ignition, but don't want to steal electrons from my headlight.

Thanks for any replies.
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Old 10-12-2011, 09:23 AM   #24965
Krabill
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Location: Tulsa, OK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironbrewer View Post
I'm going to put heated grips on my new to me 08 WRr. Where are people wiring them into. I would like to have them keyed to the ignition, but don't want to steal electrons from my headlight.

Thanks for any replies.
I put a relay under the seat to run all my heated gear. I used the brake light wire to trigger the relay, and straight to the battery for power.

I'm running heated grips, heated jacket, and heated gloves off the same circuit. Never had a problem and use them all quite a bit.
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Old 10-12-2011, 09:31 AM   #24966
MoBill
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Eastern Beaver 3CS (3 Circuit Solution) for me...nice and tidy, weatherproofed too.

Bike is running fine by the way...was too tired and excited to write more last night.

I was surprised how big the crank is, and the piston. Don't know why it surprised me, I really just expected lawn mower size, A novice with that kind of thing. The 10 hours labor they charged me was WELL worth it...never would I have done it in that time.

I'll get pix of the crank soon, the rod hangs up in one spot--which is why it wouldn't crank.

No water damage, I just rode the balls off of it. They said, and I saw, it was beautifully clean inside...right now, the cause of failure is MoBill rode the balls off of it--which I don't understand when I see Skierd's mileage...WTF did I do?

All good...it's done now.
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Old 10-12-2011, 09:52 AM   #24967
jgino157
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Got some miles on my new-to-me WR and I'm loving it. But the off idle twitchiness is driving me nuts. I know I was reading about it somewhere before I bought the bike. Is this the CO diagnostic thing or do I need to change the power programmer settings (Full FMF, Ultim Airbox mod, Power Prog).

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Old 10-12-2011, 09:58 AM   #24968
ironbrewer
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Location: Was in Colorado now in The Northwet, Washington
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I have my heated vest wired directly to my battery. I don't worry qbout that, because I won't ever leave it with the bike, but I killed my KLR's battery a couple of times leaving direct wired heated grips running. So the brake light wire is only hot when the ignition key is on? I would think that it is only hot when you are applying the brakes??


Quote:
Originally Posted by Krabill View Post
I put a relay under the seat to run all my heated gear. I used the brake light wire to trigger the relay, and straight to the battery for power.

I'm running heated grips, heated jacket, and heated gloves off the same circuit. Never had a problem and use them all quite a bit.
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Old 10-12-2011, 10:01 AM   #24969
ironbrewer
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Location: Was in Colorado now in The Northwet, Washington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoBill View Post
Eastern Beaver 3CS (3 Circuit Solution) for me...nice and tidy, weatherproofed too.

Is the Eastern Beaver #CS always hot the way you wired it? I actually watched your video, but it looked like it was direct wired to the battery. Just wondering why you didn't use Pauls handguards as well. I think I'm going to upgrade from the Zeta's that came with my bike to Pauls. HighwayDirtBike handguards are a work of art.

Thanks
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Old 10-12-2011, 10:03 AM   #24970
HardWorkingDog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironbrewer View Post
...So the brake light wire is only hot when the ignition key is on? I would think that it is only hot when you are applying the brakes??


suspect he meant rear running light wire...
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Old 10-12-2011, 10:03 AM   #24971
onetravdown
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Joined: Jul 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoBill View Post
right now, the cause of failure is MoBill rode the balls off of it
Sounds reasonable to me.
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Old 10-12-2011, 10:06 AM   #24972
Krabill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HardWorkingDog View Post


suspect he meant rear running light wire...
Yeah . . . TAIL light . . . not BRAKE light. Whoops
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Old 10-12-2011, 10:32 AM   #24973
ironbrewer
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Location: Was in Colorado now in The Northwet, Washington
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Thanks guys.

So I decided to make my own rear rack. I got a piece of Aluminum plate from a friend and started cutting and drilling it. I used 3/8 inch brass nipples for standoffs and bolted it on. I know it isn't as spiffy as the store bought ones, but it will do the job for me and is the right price.

Here are a couple of pics.






It KLR tech at its best!!
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Old 10-12-2011, 11:02 AM   #24974
Kbike
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Location: Boulder/Tucson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironbrewer View Post
I'm going to put heated grips on my new to me 08 WRr. Where are people wiring them into. I would like to have them keyed to the ignition, but don't want to steal electrons from my headlight.

Thanks for any replies.
I have a fused wire direct from the battery to a relay under the headlight and to my Acc plug that's on the handlebars. I tapped in to the headlight circuit to power the relay for the heated grips when the ignition is turned on. I run all of my other electronics off the acc socket.





This is a box I made to power my electronics, GPS, electric jacket, phone or iPod, and radar. I carry it in my tankbag and can move it from bike to bike depending on what I'm riding.
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Old 10-12-2011, 11:16 AM   #24975
MoBill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trav72 View Post
Sounds reasonable to me.

I needed to hear that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ironbrewer View Post
Is the Eastern Beaver #CS always hot the way you wired it? I actually watched your video, but it looked like it was direct wired to the battery. Just wondering why you didn't use Pauls handguards as well. I think I'm going to upgrade from the Zeta's that came with my bike to Pauls. HighwayDirtBike handguards are a work of art.

Thanks
I ordered the 3 cs with 2 switched and one unswitched. The grips are wired to a switched circuit.
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