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Old 10-17-2011, 04:58 PM   #25126
Saltydog86
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I can not believe all the chatter about fuel sloshing....

Its less than 5 gallons....your not pulling a tanker trailer with no baffles on a mountain pass. I have never once thought holy cow that fuel sloshed and I almost crashed.
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Old 10-17-2011, 05:03 PM   #25127
bhd1223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saltydog86 View Post
I can not believe all the chatter about fuel sloshing....

Its less than 5 gallons....your not pulling a tanker trailer with no baffles on a mountain pass. I have never once thought holy cow that fuel sloshed and I almost crashed.
I agree that I've never thought fuel slosh has almost made me crash. I will say though that even having the 3.1 gal IMS I have noticed more slosh than with the stock tank at times. Nothing uncomfortable or anything, just noticeable. I can't imagine what the behemoth 4.7 gal IMS would feel like.
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Old 10-17-2011, 05:07 PM   #25128
trav72
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Yep, there's no fuel sloshing in the 4.75, the stock shock is awesome and the stock tires are great in the dirt.
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Old 10-17-2011, 05:24 PM   #25129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trav72 View Post
Yep, there's no fuel sloshing in the 4.75, the stock shock is awesome and the stock tires are great in the dirt.
Haha. To add fuel to the fire, stock tires and dirt aren't so bad. Add some friendly H20 and that dirt becomes mud, stock tires turn to nothing better than slicks. It's a shame koolaid tastes like crap, I wish I could hold the beliefs some of those folks do. It would sure save me money.
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Old 10-17-2011, 06:07 PM   #25130
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TAT later

Thanks, I've just moved the TAT to my 70yr old bucket list from my 50's.

Quote:
Originally Posted by skierd View Post
...Keep in mind too that the tat is more road than trail, its about distances and endurance not technical terrain. Stop worrying so much. ;) you're not going to find 1000s of miles of singletrack track and downed trees, hell I went most of a week without seeing a tree lol.
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Old 10-17-2011, 07:54 PM   #25131
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Reprogram the EFI on WR250R Step by Step FREE!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by TwilightZone View Post
WR250 forums... re-mapping ? CO ? (post)
----------------------------------

Originally Posted by GSBS
Dirtytrixx400 showed me this. He's been running the same FMF PC4 pipe as I put on for a year and does not use an aftermarket fuel programmer.

To access the controls for making these changes, you must first make a jumper wire to ground (did mine to the negative battery terminal) from the "extra" black wire in the connector for the lean angle sensor underneath the seat. There are three wires on one side of the connector that are used by the LAS and another black one on the opposite side that connects to nothing. This is probably used by the dealer to connect to Yamaha's diagnostic software.

Anyway, after you've done that, you can then enter the "CO" mode to lean out or richen up the air/fuel mixture. The range is from +30 to -30 (sixty-one possible settings including "0").

Plus numbers richen the mixture; minus number make it more lean. Mine from the factory was set at -3 and after riding a bit I changed it first to 0 and it's now set at +2. The nice thing is that you can adjust it on the fly to as many different settings as you want and it saves the last number used when the key is turned off.

To access the CO settings you do the following (after grounding the above-mentioned wire):

1. Hold down the "reset" and "select 1" buttons on the insturment cluster at the same time.

2. Turn on the key (but don't press the starter button) while continuing to hold these two buttons. After 8 seconds the display will read "diag" or something like that.

3. Once in the "diag" screen, press the "select 1" button only. The display will change to "CO"

4. Press both "reset" and "select 1" again (same as step 1) and after 3 seconds the display will show "0" on the left and "C1" on the right.

5. Again press both "reset" and "select 1" for another three seconds and the display changes to "C1" at top right with a number shown below. This number is the current CO setting (it will be somewhere from -30 to +30)

6. Now start the bike. At the top left you'll have a digital tachometer. Also, while in this mode no mileage is recorded on the odometer.

7. To change a setting, use the "select 1" button to make the numbers higher (+) or the "reset" button to make them lower (-). When you turn off the ignition the bike is set to whatever number you had set at that time.

Dirtytrixx400 told me that you can't tell anything from just blipping the throttle in the garage. So what we did was ride for a bit with the stock setting of -3. After riding for a few minutes I confirmed there was a hesitation off idle when opening the throttle.

Next we changed to a setting of 0 (three points richer) and the hesitation improved, but was still there a little.

Finally changed it to +2 and the bike RIPPED! He said I may need to tweak it a bit more later when the weather warms up. But it's very easy to do.

Yesterday I did a ride of around 180 miles (about 40 of which were trails and gravel roads) and this setting worked great. No hiccups or issues.

The mods we did to the bike included:

FMF pipe
K&N air filter
12t CS (replaced stock 13t)

Also:
Removed top of air box (including flapper, etc)
Removed EXUP system
Removed AIS system

Hope this is helpful for you.

Dirtytrixx400 is "da man" when it comes to this stuff. I just listened and learned from him. Until he told me I didn't need the aftermarket programmer, I'd hesitated about buying a pipe (since the programmers can cost as much or more than the pipe) and without changing the pipe, I saw no real need to make the other mods as the bike was running fine.

BTW the total cost for the above mods was under $300! And they transformed the bike. Now it easily wheelies over mud puddles or small logs in second and I can "steer" with the throttle in turns on gravel or dirt roads much better.
I just did this today and mine was at -4 I moved it to 0 and now I can pop wheelies on accident haha! all I am adding is pictures to this tutorial, all credit is due to TwilightZone, Dirtytrixx400 and GSBS


To access the controls for making these changes, you must first make a jumper wire to ground (did mine to the negative battery terminal) from the "extra" black wire in the connector for the lean angle sensor underneath the seat. There are three wires on one side of the connector that are used by the LAS and another black one on the opposite side that connects to nothing. This is probably used by the dealer to connect to Yamaha's diagnostic software.

Photobucket
OSU:(Here is the lean angle sensor under the seat.)

Photobucket
OSU:(There is the one lone black wire on this side of the connector.)

Photobucket
OSU:(Here is the other side, you need to jump the black wire to the ground wire on this side as seen in these next pictures.)

Photobucket
Photobucket

1. Hold down the "reset" and "select 1" buttons on the insturment cluster at the same time and Turn on the key (but don't press the starter button) while continuing to hold these two buttons. After 8 seconds the display will read "diag"
Photobucket

2. Once in the "diag" screen, press the "select 1" button only. The display will change to "CO"
Photobucket

3. Press both "reset" and "select 1" again (same as step 1) and after 3 seconds the display will show "0" on the left and "C1" on the right.
Photobucket

4. Again press both "reset" and "select 1" for another three seconds and the display changes to "C1" at top right with a number shown below. This number is the current CO setting (it will be somewhere from -30 to +30)
OSU:(mine was at -4 stock and I think 0 is the best setting if you are bone stock because I went to 1 and I couldn't do
wheelies so I put it back to 0)
Photobucket

6. Now start the bike. At the top left you'll have a digital tachometer. Also, while in this mode no mileage is recorded on the odometer. OSU:(you will need to remove the jumper and plug the connector back in in order to start to bike.)
Photobucket
Photobucket

7. To change a setting, use the "select 1" button to make the numbers higher (+) or the "reset" button to make them lower (-). When you turn off the ignition the bike is set to whatever number you had set at that time.

OSU:(I am not the original writer of this I just added pictures all credit is do to TwilightZone, Dirtytrixx400 and GSBS)
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Old 10-17-2011, 08:11 PM   #25132
skierd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cromoth View Post
Thanks, I've just moved the TAT to my 70yr old bucket list from my 50's.


It is ~4600 miles start to finish if I remember my mileages right, and then you gotta get back. Unless its that kind of bucket list...
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Old 10-17-2011, 08:20 PM   #25133
Discojon75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OSU View Post
I just did this today and mine was at -4 I moved it to 0 and now I can pop wheelies on accident haha! all I am adding is pictures to this tutorial, all credit is due to TwilightZone, Dirtytrixx400 and GSBS


To access the controls for making these changes, you must first make a jumper wire to ground (did mine to the negative battery terminal) from the "extra" black wire in the connector for the lean angle sensor underneath the seat. There are three wires on one side of the connector that are used by the LAS and another black one on the opposite side that connects to nothing. This is probably used by the dealer to connect to Yamaha's diagnostic software.


OSU:(Here is the lean angle sensor under the seat.)


OSU:(There is the one lone black wire on this side of the connector.)


OSU:(Here is the other side, you need to jump the black wire to the ground wire on this side as seen in these next pictures.)



1. Hold down the "reset" and "select 1" buttons on the insturment cluster at the same time and Turn on the key (but don't press the starter button) while continuing to hold these two buttons. After 8 seconds the display will read "diag"


2. Once in the "diag" screen, press the "select 1" button only. The display will change to "CO"


3. Press both "reset" and "select 1" again (same as step 1) and after 3 seconds the display will show "0" on the left and "C1" on the right.


4. Again press both "reset" and "select 1" for another three seconds and the display changes to "C1" at top right with a number shown below. This number is the current CO setting (it will be somewhere from -30 to +30)
OSU:(mine was at -4 stock and I think 0 is the best setting if you are bone stock because I went to 1 and I couldn't do
wheelies so I put it back to 0)


6. Now start the bike. At the top left you'll have a digital tachometer. Also, while in this mode no mileage is recorded on the odometer. OSU:(you will need to remove the jumper and plug the connector back in in order to start to bike.)


7. To change a setting, use the "select 1" button to make the numbers higher (+) or the "reset" button to make them lower (-). When you turn off the ignition the bike is set to whatever number you had set at that time.

OSU:(I am not the original writer of this I just added pictures all credit is do to TwilightZone, Dirtytrixx400 and GSBS)
Dude! Thanks! I'm not going to be able to sleep tonight until I go do this!
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Old 10-17-2011, 09:03 PM   #25134
skierd
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Any X owners out there been through a lot of tires? I've worn out the stock tires on my new-to-me X wheels and need replacements. I know nothing about street motorcycle tires. Long wearing is my #1 priority, I rarely push it on the street and with winter coming I don't see me going to the track before spring, when this set of tires will be worn out anyways. Price is important too, trying to keep it under $200 for the set and better if its under $150 so I'm ignoring Distanzias. I wear through the things too damn fast to spend $1200/yr on rubber.

I'm probably going to keep riding all winter, so I'm also debating just getting a 90/10 dual sport tire like the Shinko 705 or a 50/50 tire like the 244 to better deal with the sand, salt, slush, and other accumulated crap thats already starting to infect the roads again.

244's


705's


Also thinking about the Duro HF918's as they're cheap at ~$120 a set. Or just getting another stock BT090 rear and using the barely worn front I have in the basement. Or the Continental SM or Sport Touring tires (Go or Motion). Or I dunno, help?


Stock tire size is 110/70-17 front and 140/70-17 rear, not a ton of room for more on either end. 120/70-17's and 150/60 and 150/70's fit respectively, depending on the rear tire, but raise the front and either raise or lower the rear (and gearing) respectively.
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Old 10-17-2011, 10:35 PM   #25135
IdahoRenegade
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OSU, thanks for the great writeup and detailed pictures. That takes a lot of the fear of making this mod away. I have a couple questions.

1) Once in C1 mode, you mention removing the jumper and plugging the conn into the LAS. Do you turn the key off when you do this? Or just "hot plug" it?

2) I believe from what you wrote that the C1 mode stays in effect when you start the bike, and you can make changes on the fly. In other words you don't stop the bike, plug the jumper in and reset a value.

2) When you're done changing the C1 setting....how do you get the display back to normal?

Thanks. If I just went ahead and did this mod it would probably be obvious. I'll be giving it a try this week...I like no-$$ mods and am too poor for a programmer right now.
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Old 10-17-2011, 10:52 PM   #25136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OSU View Post
I find it very interesting how low your bike idles. Mine goes to ~ 1800rpm, have to check what it is when the bike is really warm, but I don't think it goes down much.

What could be the reason for this?

CO setting is "3", the bike does have a Graves free flow exhaust tip.
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Old 10-17-2011, 11:31 PM   #25137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cug View Post
I find it very interesting how low your bike idles. Mine goes to ~ 1800rpm, have to check what it is when the bike is really warm, but I don't think it goes down much.

What could be the reason for this?

CO setting is "3", the bike does have a Graves free flow exhaust tip.
I am at sea level and my bike was really warm from riding it at setting 1 but i put it back to 0 because I still have a lot of back pressure from the stock setup, you can adjust the idle on the throttle body.
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Old 10-17-2011, 11:38 PM   #25138
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reply to question's

Quote:
Originally Posted by IdahoRenegade View Post
OSU, thanks for the great writeup and detailed pictures. That takes a lot of the fear of making this mod away. I have a couple questions.

1) Once in C1 mode, you mention removing the jumper and plugging the conn into the LAS. Do you turn the key off when you do this? Or just "hot plug" it?

2) I believe from what you wrote that the C1 mode stays in effect when you start the bike, and you can make changes on the fly. In other words you don't stop the bike, plug the jumper in and reset a value.

2) When you're done changing the C1 setting....how do you get the display back to normal?

Thanks. If I just went ahead and did this mod it would probably be obvious. I'll be giving it a try this week...I like no-$$ mods and am too poor for a programmer right now.
1) Hot plug it, if you turn off the ignition it will reset.

2) yes you can essentially ride the bike while in this mode but I didn't because I can't see my speed, and I live in a college town with mean cops XD.

3) turn off ignition then back on and it will be normal.

ya me too haha, college student and all ( I want to big gun exhaust!! with quite core so I don't get other ADV riders kicked off trails)
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Old 10-18-2011, 05:11 AM   #25139
SR1
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All, 'specially Skierd and Trav, thanks for your inputs.

I think I will be just fine with the 3.1 and will check into that Justgastanks bladder. Maybe I can make some tank panniers and put a couple of 1 gallon bladders on the side, or somethin' else. Scratch that, at $129 for a 1 gal and $144 for a 2 gal, I'll get the 2 gal probably.

Good discussion though!



Quote:
Originally Posted by skierd View Post
Unless you ride like a maniac when traveling, you're gonna average the same 55ish mpg you probably do now, if not better. I averaged closer to 65mpg on the tat for a variety of reasons, mainly taking a leisurely sightseeing pace.

I get not wanting fuel up high, so don't fill it up till you need it out west. Towns are only 90ish miles apart in the east and I managed fine on the stock tank through to salida never touching my extra gas. Keep the 3.1, buy a 1gal or a 2gal jerry can in Oklahoma just in case, and bungee it to the tailrack for the western portion.

Keep in mind too that the tat is more road than trail, its about distances and endurance not technical terrain. Stop worrying so much. ;) you're not going to find 1000s of miles of singletrack track and downed trees, hell I went most of a week without seeing a tree lol.
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Old 10-18-2011, 05:25 AM   #25140
SR1
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I am coming from really neither, as the WR is my first "dirt bike" at all. Good perspective here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Breeze View Post
My $0.02,

Just got back from a mini TAT (Utah and Colorado) and a full CDR trip. My intake/exhaust, etc. is bone stock. Twice I filled up the tank up, at the end of the day, and put in 3.7 gallons of gas (3.69 and 3.72 to be exact!). Ya, the 3.7 gallon Safari would have brought me in on fumes.....but I would have been stressing the entire day. Was really glad I had the 4.7 gallon IMS........worked like a champ Nothing against Safari tanks....I have the 9 gallon fuel tanker on my DR650 . It's not a matter of brand, it's a matter of capacity.

For what it's worth, I'd either get the 4.7 gallon IMS....and never worry about fuel, or stick with your current setup and get a 2 gallon bladder from Justgastanks and rokstrap it to the back of your bike (full on the longer stretches and rolled/stowed on the shorter stretches).

Regarding weight... if the Rotopax is full (+ the weight of the Wolfman rack), it's probably going to weigh as much, if not more, than the 4.7 IMS when full... If it's not full, it seems like a lot of stuff to be lugging around without any purpose. If I was dead set on a Rotopax, I'd mount it to the tailrack (I know it sits higher....but it saves you from adding the bulk/weight of a Wolfman rack). Just my opinion.

FWIW, the toughest single/double track/no track!, I experienced on the trip, was in Black Dragon Wash....didn't even notice that the 4.7 gallon tank/fuel was there.

I think that this whole tank size/weight issue is a matter of perspective....If you're coming from a 650cc dual sport bike (which I was) or bigger, the WR with a 4.7 gallon tank seems really lightweight, small, and nimble..... If you're coming from a 250cc, full on dirt bike, and ride primarily single track, then the WR with a 4.7 gallon tank seems big, bulky, and heavy.

For me, I hate worrying about fuel....
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