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Old 10-19-2011, 06:24 PM   #25171
joenuclear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Attico View Post
Yes, all you need to do is to buy a ktm or bmw 450, or a husqvarna.....

Kidding......

I took the huge tail off, passenger pegs, reflector brackets, etc...reLly no more that 10lbs. Not much weight to take off really.
There's gotta be more....
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Old 10-19-2011, 06:52 PM   #25172
HighFive
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HOLY SMOKES ! ! !

Did anyone else besides me see this: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...php?p=17113300

Brand spankin new IMS 4.7 gal tank (never used) for sale at $100 off retail price!

This is crazy good.....for somebody quick on the trigger.

Thought I'd link it since there's been a bunch of IMS big tank discussion going on here. Seems there's some interest in it.

HF
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:07 PM   #25173
IdahoRenegade
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OSU View Post
1) Hot plug it, if you turn off the ignition it will reset.

2) yes you can essentially ride the bike while in this mode but I didn't because I can't see my speed, and I live in a college town with mean cops XD.

3) turn off ignition then back on and it will be normal.

ya me too haha, college student and all ( I want to big gun exhaust!! with quite core so I don't get other ADV riders kicked off trails)
OSU, I want to thank you again for the C1 writeup. I just went out and played with my bike. Mine was at 0, I went both ways, seemed to pull a bit harder at -1. I can see where you would have had an issue at -4, when I went down to -3 mine was noticably "flatter". I also like the ability to have a tach when you want it.

I'm thinking about wiring a switch in line to short the "magic" wire. It would be nice to be able to ground this w/o pulling the seat and unplugging the connector, just to be able to play more conveniently.
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:13 PM   #25174
joenuclear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighFive View Post
HOLY SMOKES ! ! !

Did anyone else besides me see this: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...php?p=17113300

Brand spankin new IMS 4.7 gal tank (never used) for sale at $100 off retail price!

This is crazy good.....for somebody quick on the trigger.

Thought I'd link it since there's been a bunch of IMS big tank discussion going on here. Seems there's some interest in it.

HF
Dood! haven't you heard.... they slosh!!!
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:16 PM   #25175
IdahoRenegade
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighFive View Post
HOLY SMOKES ! ! !

Did anyone else besides me see this: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...php?p=17113300

Brand spankin new IMS 4.7 gal tank (never used) for sale at $100 off retail price!

This is crazy good.....for somebody quick on the trigger.

Thought I'd link it since there's been a bunch of IMS big tank discussion going on here. Seems there's some interest in it.

HF
Fuc... I want that bad. But I just blew my cash fund on the bike 2 weeks ago. I'm going to get one this winter (sloshing and all). 120 mile range just isn't enough around here.
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:17 PM   #25176
skierd
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Location: Fairbanks, AK
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Weight loss info, courtesy of ramz

http://www.rickramsey.net/WR250Rmods.htm

Oh yeah, had to make another adjustment to this DAMN bike. I think sarah mentioned checking the idle if youre bike isn't running its best. Mine was down around 1250-1300with when its supposed to be 1450-1650 rpm. A few quick turns of the idle screw and she's as strong as ever. All this maintenance is getting to me lol shouldaboughtaktm lol jk
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:21 PM   #25177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IdahoRenegade
I'm thinking about wiring a switch in line to short the "magic" wire. It would be nice to be able to ground this w/o pulling the seat and unplugging the connector, just to be able to play more conveniently.
Why not just leave it grounded?

-SM
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:25 PM   #25178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sock Monkey View Post
Why not just leave it grounded?

-SM
Interesting thought, I wonder if it would cause a problem. I might need to play and see what happens. I "unshorted" it and plugged in the LAS before starting, per OSUs directions. I think that just lets the LAS signal go to the 'puter. Not sure what happens otherwise if you leave the diagnostic wire shorted with the motor running. Have you tried it? I hesitate to be the first, once you let the smoke out of electronic components, it gets spendy to get it back in.

IdahoRenegade screwed with this post 10-19-2011 at 07:30 PM
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:29 PM   #25179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IdahoRenegade View Post
OSU, I want to thank you again for the C1 writeup. I just went out and played with my bike. Mine was at 0, I went both ways, seemed to pull a bit harder at -1. I can see where you would have had an issue at -4, when I went down to -3 mine was noticably "flatter". I also like the ability to have a tach when you want it.

I'm thinking about wiring a switch in line to short the "magic" wire. It would be nice to be able to ground this w/o pulling the seat and unplugging the connector, just to be able to play more conveniently.
Ya I am thinking of soldering a wire to the back of the the connector to ground with a simple switch mounted on the plastics it will be interesting when I get an aftermarket exhaust and dyno it to find the sweet spot. This would be a job for Krabill and HF I think they should put it on there website http://www.wrrdualsport.com/ its a great site and the reason I have my bike!

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Old 10-19-2011, 07:31 PM   #25180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IdahoRenegade View Post
Interesting thought, I wonder if it would cause a problem. I might need to play and see what happens. I "unshorted" it and plugged in the LAS before starting, per OSUs directions. I think that just lets the LAS signal go to the 'puter. Not sure what happens otherwise if you leave the diagnostic wire shorted with the motor running. Have you tried it? I hesitate to be the first, once you let the smoke out of electronic components, it gets spendy to get it back in.
I think a switch would be the better and safer option
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Old 10-19-2011, 08:03 PM   #25181
Sock Monkey OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IdahoRenegade
Interesting thought, I wonder if it would cause a problem. I might need to play and see what happens. I "unshorted" it and plugged in the LAS before starting, per OSUs directions. I think that just lets the LAS signal go to the 'puter. Not sure what happens otherwise if you leave the diagnostic wire shorted with the motor running. Have you tried it? I hesitate to be the first, once you let the smoke out of electronic components, it gets spendy to get it back in.
Mine is soldered to ground (neg battery term) and so far, no smoke. My bike has become a PITA to start, but who knows why given all my recent mods. Most likely my fuel pump is finally crapping out, but it bump starts fine so I've just been dealing with it until I get home (I'm on a trip right now up in the mtns.... ).

-SM
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Old 10-19-2011, 08:08 PM   #25182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sock Monkey View Post
Mine is soldered to ground (neg battery term) and so far, no smoke. My bike has become a PITA to start, but who knows why given all my recent mods. Most likely my fuel pump is finally crapping out, but it bump starts fine so I've just been dealing with it until I get home (I'm on a trip right now up in the mtns.... ).

-SM
there is a ground in the connector so ill just solder it to that
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Old 10-19-2011, 08:29 PM   #25183
IdahoRenegade
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OSU View Post
there is a ground in the connector so ill just solder it to that
It might be easy to just Scotchlock the two black wires together. It would be necessary to cut out the "dam" on the one side of the SL.
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Old 10-19-2011, 08:32 PM   #25184
skierd
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I just used a positap on the ground wire then ran a new line to the negative terminal, crimped down under the terminals for my GPS and heated gear leads. Y'all are making this too complicated. Several thousand miles and all kinds of weather with it this way and no issues, tip over sensor still works fine.
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Old 10-19-2011, 08:36 PM   #25185
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Originally Posted by skierd View Post
I just used a positap on the ground wire then ran a new line to the negative terminal, crimped down under the terminals for my GPS and heated gear leads. Y'all are making this too complicated. Several thousand miles and all kinds of weather with it this way and no issues, tip over sensor still works fine.
im going to college for electrical engineering, its my job to make things overly complicated haha
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