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Old 10-26-2011, 12:36 PM   #25351
Dysco
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This is me carrying a loaf of fresh bread from the bakery in Sauguache to Salida the fun way... in the rain and snow. The bread was unsquished, dry and delicious even after numerous waterbar launches in my Wolfman dry bags. I don't think I could pull that off with a GL bag.

I can also rig my fly rods on the bags so easily that I abandoned plans for a dedicated holder. (By rolling the rod case into the top of the bag)
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Old 10-26-2011, 12:46 PM   #25352
Sock Monkey OP
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CO mod vs. using a programmer

This is a cross-post from another forum, but I thought I'd get more "feedback" (i.e. tomatoes thrown at my head) over here....

-------------

So, I spent a week up in the mountains rompin' around before the snow flies, and have some observations re. the CO mod vs. programmer conundrum. I'm sure this will be a bit "controversial", but hey, isn't that part of why we post stuff? To throw stuff out there and let the community beat the crap out it? So, here goes......

As I was "testing" and dickin' around with the programmer (FMF Power Programmer), I came upon a setting that seemed to offer the best performance: 2,2,1.5,8,4,4

Look familiar? Yeah, it's basically the same settings as SheWolf, HF, Levity, et al. For those not familiar with the FMF programmer, the "interesting" numbers are the first three as they represent the amount of fuel that gets ADDED by the programmer to whatever the stock ECU is spitting out for Cruise, Acceleration, and Wide Open, respectively. Note that a setting of 1 is "off", meaning the programmer adds no additional fuel.

So what right? Well, here's the thing: Look at those numbers. They're low...real low. As in hardly adding any "extra" fuel at all low (the last 3 numbers represent rpm where "Cruise" is engaged, as a multiplier x approx. 125 rpm on top of 1000 rpm, so "8" means "Cruise" kicks in around 2k rpm, then the two "4"'s represent sensitivity or how quickly the extra fuel is added to "Acceleration" and "Wide Open", respectively). And note too that I've totally opened up my flow, from intake through exhaust, by nearly taking off the entire top of the airbox and adding a full FMF exhaust system.

My conclusion? I'm starting to agree with the folks who have said they opened up their systems like I have and haven't added a programmer and have had no ill effects. I think it would be simple for someone like HF, who seems to have an "in" with a quality dyno (and tech), to test this out by doing a dyno run with his programmer set to 1,1,1,x,x,x, as this would basically turn the programmer "off" and just use the stock ECU fuel output and see what the A/F number looks like across the rev range. Does it stay around 13 (which is ideal), or does it go "critically lean" (< 12) somewhere? My butt-dyno says the stock ECU does a fine job of adjusting the A/F mix all on its own, but it would be great to get confirmation of this.

Oh....and regarding the CO mod.....meh. The only thing I see it effecting is the idle/just-off-idle range, and have actually had to lower it to less than the stock value to get my bike back to starting reliably. I began having a devil of a time getting my bike to start (once started it ran great), and changing the C1 value to -4 (stock was -2, I had set it to +2 before my trip) seemed to fix it. So I guess from that perspective it was useful to be able to change it, but I'm still a bit baffled at the hard starting. Totally stock my bike always started within 2 revolutions of the starter.....

-SM
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Old 10-26-2011, 12:54 PM   #25353
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cug View Post
Thank you all very much for the luggage suggestions. I really appreciate it!

Some answers to questions asked:

1) I do like some creature comfort and I will be camping a few nights. So a good mattress, warm sleeping bag, tent are a must.

2) I don't have a tiny stove, therefore I'll take what I have which is a bit bulky (MSR Dragonfly inside 2L pot & plate, extra gas bottle). Don't want to buy different gear for this now. The farkles for the bike go through the roof already.

3) I have the stock exhaust muffler with the OEM plastic heat shield.

4) Flipflops are okay, but still.

5) I don't like stinky gear (and stinky me), so I'll pack clothes / underwear for at least three or four days and will see motels from now and then to wash clothes and myself.


Currently I'm still torn between all of the solutions, stripping it down to the following advantages / disadvantage (for me personally):

Giant Loop Coyote

Advantages:

- small and light
- might prevent overpacking
- less drag than Wolfman's

Disadvantages:

- I need an additional bag when I'm camping, no way around that. Unfortunately, not even a very small additional bag as I need to fit my very bulky mattress + my small but not tiny tent.
- Might not be 100% waterproof


Giant Loop Great Basin

Advantages:

- Everything might fit into a single rear bag, me likey
- can take it off even for a lunch break if I want to, fast enough
- Less drag than Wolfman's
- Nice and small inner compartments for distributed packing of everything
- Can take a bit of creature comfort with me

Disadvantages:

- Yes, it is fairly big, but I don't think it looks too big in the photos Skierd pasted
- Lots of folks consider it as too big for this bike
- Might not be 100% waterproof (Seam sealing, dry bags?)


Wolfman Expedition Dry Bags

Advantages:

- 100% waterproof - me likey
- versatile, can take just the bags, one bag, low carried fuel or water, ...
- Easy to keep away from exhaust
- Good complement for my Ortlieb pack roll (small) or Duffle (medium)

Disadvantages:

- increased drag
- fiddly
- needs extra racks


Hmpf. I'm nowhere closer now. I like all these systems for their various advantages.
The GL Bags look cool. Another plus is they are usable on many different bikes, without ordering special racks. So if you have 2 or more bikes, you can use the same luggage on them without plopping down another $250 for a set of racks.

I don't have a GL bag. I've never actually seen one, but I do like the fact that it can be used on different bikes without modification.
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Old 10-26-2011, 01:03 PM   #25354
SR1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cug View Post
Thank you all very much for the luggage suggestions. I really appreciate it!

Some answers to questions asked:



Giant Loop Coyote

- Might not be 100% waterproof


Giant Loop Great Basin


- Might not be 100% waterproof (Seam sealing, dry bags?)

Just for the record, I seam-sealed my Coyote when I received it. Since then I have had the bag completely submerged, a couple of times (along with an xr250, lol) and can faithfully report that it was about 99% waterproof. I didn't keep the bag (or the bike!) underwater long, but it was down there. I also didn't wrestle with the bag to see if it WOULD leak, but it was most certainly submerged.

I don't believe more than 2 ounces of water got in, and I think it got in right where the zippers meet. I can live with that, you might not be able to. I'm sure bread wouldn't make it without getting squished, though.

Oh! and a previous poster made comment that the GLs are good for multiple bike use. That's actually why I bought mine. I wind up riding a lot of rental bikes -like when I go to Spain or SE Asia- and the GL works great for that. I'm in Kuwait now and the GL is in my storage room. When I go on vacation, I don't know exactly what kind of bike I'll have (some sort of dirt bike or DS) but I just fold up the GL in my luggage and go. This isn't an issue with people who use the same bike every trip.
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Old 10-26-2011, 01:14 PM   #25355
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rydnseek View Post

I don't care what Jager or anyone else says, this setup is the best & only one that anyone should ever use. If you even consider using another system, you're a friggin' idiot & should be banned from motorcycle riding altogether.
I thought the luggage conversation ended here. What are you guys doing still talking about it?

FWIW I have a GL Coyote. It's rugged and rides wonderfully, but it's non-compartmentalized design isn't a good match for my compartmentalized mentality. In other words, I pretty much have to disassemble my luggage system to get something out of the bottom. I can commit to that exercise when I reach my campsite but still prefer something less monolithic with multiple access points.

But it doesn't really matter now that I'm going to be banned from motorcycle riding altogether.
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Old 10-26-2011, 02:16 PM   #25356
Krabill
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I have dealt with too much wet gear when I get to camp to put up with anything less than 100% waterproof gear any more.

Wolfman bags for me, thanks.
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Old 10-26-2011, 04:25 PM   #25357
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WR250R Down for the count

Hey anyone out there know where there might be a stator available? Mine gave up and is not charging. Thought it might be the regulator/rectifier but put a new one in and no luck.

Yamaha has back ordered them until 11/8/11. Looks like two weeks with no riding if I can't find one. Called Service Honda, local dealer, Cycle Parts Whse and Seattle Sports plaza.....all would have to order one...bummer.

Checked Ebay too nothing there from bikes being parted out.....

If someone has one or knows where to get one please PM me.

TIA
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Old 10-26-2011, 05:22 PM   #25358
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Is it necessary to balance off road tires on the wr250r such as kenda trackmaster 2


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Old 10-26-2011, 05:28 PM   #25359
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Keeping gear dry..

FWIW..I like to use these bags in my non waterproof gear. they are cheap, but work like gang busters...have not had one fail me yet on many trips, half of which have had hours of rain.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Outdoor-Re...Sacks/10928125
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Old 10-26-2011, 05:33 PM   #25360
duanew1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OSU View Post
Is it necessary to balance off road tires on the wr250r such as kenda trackmaster 2
I don't know about you, but I will do anything to reduce the vibration in my motorcycles. I balance all of mine. I seem to be fairly susceptible to numb hands from vibration and I hate it.
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Old 10-26-2011, 05:51 PM   #25361
joenuclear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10Cup View Post
Hey anyone out there know where there might be a stator available? Mine gave up and is not charging. Thought it might be the regulator/rectifier but put a new one in and no luck.

Yamaha has back ordered them until 11/8/11. Looks like two weeks with no riding if I can't find one. Called Service Honda, local dealer, Cycle Parts Whse and Seattle Sports plaza.....all would have to order one...bummer.

Checked Ebay too nothing there from bikes being parted out.....

If someone has one or knows where to get one please PM me.

TIA
PM sent. But you really should stay away from Charlie....... just sayin!
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Old 10-26-2011, 07:44 PM   #25362
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duanew1 View Post
I don't know about you, but I will do anything to reduce the vibration in my motorcycles. I balance all of mine. I seem to be fairly susceptible to numb hands from vibration and I hate it.
http://www.vibranator.com/default.asp
uses helicopter anti-vib technology
the inventor Don, invented the suzuki full-floater suspension.
real smart guy. http://store.ricorshocks.com/
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Old 10-26-2011, 08:46 PM   #25363
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krabill View Post
I have dealt with too much wet gear when I get to camp to put up with anything less than 100% waterproof gear any more.
Thinking more and more about this one, I have to agree. I have two Ortlieb bags for exactly that reason. The Rackpack duffle is plain too bulky (long / wide) for the WR, I had it packed and I didn't like it on the bag.

I also have an Ortlieb pack sack with roll top, pretty old but nice and small which fits the WR nicely as a bag behind the rider. Therefore the plan is now:

1) I ordered Wolfman racks and Expedition bags from Berg. Added two bottle holsters for my cooking fuel and for an additional water bottle.

2) Use the small Ortlieb bag for whatever doesn't fit in the side bags. Likely mattress and sleeping bag. The good thing is - these items are also very light and I don't have to compress my sleeping bag too badly. I just roll the mattress loosely in the Ortlieb bag so that I have space in the middle and stuff the sleeping bag in there.

3) Attach a small Pelican case that I already have (was planned as a small lockable storage for my GS) to the rear rack as lockable storage.

Number 3 is optional and only of there is enough space between myself and the Pelican to fit the Ortlieb roll and still be comfortable.

I just decided that I don't care for the potentially (likely) added drag and will buy a larger tank ... That was planned anyways, too.

And the really exciting news - the first parts have arrived:

- 21"/18" wheels from Wheeling Cycle Supply
- Dunlop D606 front and rear
- Wheel balancer

More to come and of course, I'll take photos once I get to the installing everything part. Here's the first teaser (more for me than for you guys):

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Old 10-26-2011, 09:34 PM   #25364
goroka
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Wheel balancing

Quote:
Originally Posted by OSU View Post
Is it necessary to balance off road tires on the wr250r such as kenda trackmaster 2
Current set of D606's were balanced when fitted. I also use rim locks. This was the first time I have had them balanced - made a huge difference at high speeds and will always make sure I get them done.

Cheers
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Old 10-26-2011, 10:01 PM   #25365
duanew1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
http://www.vibranator.com/default.asp
uses helicopter anti-vib technology
the inventor Don, invented the suzuki full-floater suspension.
real smart guy. http://store.ricorshocks.com/
Thanks but I really don't have a problem with the WR250R. I barely get any numbness now. I threw a wheel weight the other day and I could tell a difference. Many other bikes that I have had were not as smooth.
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