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Old 06-28-2012, 08:46 AM   #29401
Rapid Dog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thumpididump View Post
...I've got a new set of tires for my WR that I plan to mount in the coming weeks. A 120/90-18 Dunlop 606 for the rear, and a 90/90-21 Pirelli Scorpion Rally for the front...
What tires are you changing from?

One thing to remember for us learning and noobs in general, different style/btrands of tires, and especially knobbies, even though the same SIZE will be different (from manufacturer to manufacturer) in actual size, i.e., width and height.
I wish we all had a tire measurements sticky but we don't. Therefore we learn by trial and error.

On the WR, tire size, especially the rear, can be quite noticeable when it comes to handling characteristics, i.e., turning, pushing the front, wobbles, etc.
Forgive me if I'm repeating here (not sure), but I swapped out my T63s In OEM size to Metzeler Unicross All-Terrain knobs in 120/90-18 and 90/90-21. The rear was way taller and wider and the handling was much different.
I tossed those for D606's in the same size and things are a bit better. The D606 is noticeably less in height, maybe 1/2 to 1" less. The bike turns better offroad and spins easier as well.
You don't need to be a 40 year vet to feel the diff...

A huge rear isn't necessarily better on a little 250.
I'm considering going to a 110 rear.
Javier at Trail Tricks ran a 100-18 on his WR...

Just food fer thought.
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Old 06-28-2012, 08:49 AM   #29402
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Quote:
It sounds like you're getting vapor lock. When the fuel is hot enough to turn to vapor due to ambient heat + engine heat. The pump can't pump vapor. On tightly cowled aircraft engines w/fuel injection there is often a bypass that allows cooler fuel from the tank to be circulated to the intake of the pump to allow "hot" starts. This can be a problem with carbed bikes as well under the right conditions.

Cooling the tank and engine with a water spray allowing the engine to start more or less confirms vapor lock.
I'm pretty sure the pump doesn't operate because the motor binds up due to heat expansion and improper tolerances:
http://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/t1...l-pump-problem

I did not post the info.
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Old 06-28-2012, 10:44 AM   #29403
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I'm currently running D606 front and rear on the WR and the rear is nearly finished. While I do like them a lot, I only bought the Pirelli Scorpion Rally for fun... just because it looks interesting and a fellow rider on one of those orange bikes had some very good praise. I'm planning to mount the new tires before an upcoming 10-day trip and I want fresh meaty tires.

I've also got a new pair of D606's in the basement ready to go on my DR650 when the current T63's are done.

Good point with the 110 for the rear. The little 250 doesn't need the extra weight of a big fat 120/90 on the rear. That little engine has its work cut out for it just hauling my fat ass. Especially when mounted with a rim lock and a heavy duty tube, it sure makes for a lot of unnecessary unsprung weight. I was thinking about this when I ordered my new tires, but they were out of stock in the 110. (I'm planning to ditch the rim lock -- previous owner put it in there).

FWIW, I consider the T63 to be a very good tire for the money. I've gone through 4 of them on my DR650 and they work very well. The front isn't great, but does fairly well on gravel roads if you drop a few psi. A T63 rear with a front D606 makes a great combination.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid Dog View Post
What tires are you changing from?

One thing to remember for us learning and noobs in general, different style/btrands of tires, and especially knobbies, even though the same SIZE will be different (from manufacturer to manufacturer) in actual size, i.e., width and height.
I wish we all had a tire measurements sticky but we don't. Therefore we learn by trial and error.

On the WR, tire size, especially the rear, can be quite noticeable when it comes to handling characteristics, i.e., turning, pushing the front, wobbles, etc.
Forgive me if I'm repeating here (not sure), but I swapped out my T63s In OEM size to Metzeler Unicross All-Terrain knobs in 120/90-18 and 90/90-21. The rear was way taller and wider and the handling was much different.
I tossed those for D606's in the same size and things are a bit better. The D606 is noticeably less in height, maybe 1/2 to 1" less. The bike turns better offroad and spins easier as well.
You don't need to be a 40 year vet to feel the diff...

A huge rear isn't necessarily better on a little 250.
I'm considering going to a 110 rear.
Javier at Trail Tricks ran a 100-18 on his WR...

Just food fer thought.
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Old 06-28-2012, 11:14 AM   #29404
Attico
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Hey - I just toasted a set of 606s, and they gave me a good 5-6000 miles. They're great tires. I run the 120 rear and have regular tubes, no rim lock and sometimes no air as thumpididump can attest to. Our riding conditions are pretty rocky, but I haven't had any tire slippage, pinch flats or anything like that.

I just changed the tires to the common mt21/606 combo and so far i like it. Time will tell whether the mt21 is better.

Quote:
Originally Posted by thumpididump View Post
I'm currently running D606 front and rear on the WR and the rear is nearly finished. While I do like them a lot, I only bought the Pirelli Scorpion Rally for fun... just because it looks interesting and a fellow rider on one of those orange bikes had some very good praise. I'm planning to mount the new tires before an upcoming 10-day trip and I want fresh meaty tires.

I've also got a new pair of D606's in the basement ready to go on my DR650 when the current T63's are done.

Good point with the 110 for the rear. The little 250 doesn't need the extra weight of a big fat 120/90 on the rear. That little engine has its work cut out for it just hauling my fat ass. Especially when mounted with a rim lock and a heavy duty tube, it sure makes for a lot of unnecessary unsprung weight. I was thinking about this when I ordered my new tires, but they were out of stock in the 110. (I'm planning to ditch the rim lock -- previous owner put it in there).

FWIW, I consider the T63 to be a very good tire for the money. I've gone through 4 of them on my DR650 and they work very well. The front isn't great, but does fairly well on gravel roads if you drop a few psi. A T63 rear with a front D606 makes a great combination.
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Old 06-28-2012, 11:15 AM   #29405
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thumpididump View Post
the P and R refer to the tire's speed ratings. P is rated up to 93mph, R is up to 106mph

look here:
https://www.denniskirk.com/help_center/tire-sizes.jsp
Thanks Thump

I thought speed rating at first, but then I checked a chart here and saw this:

RATING RATED TOP SPEED MPH / KPH
J 62 mph / 100 kph
N 87 mph / 140 kph
P 94 mph / 150 kph
S 112 mph / 180 kph
H 130 mph / 210 kph
V 149 mph / 240 kph
Z 149+ mph / 240+ kph

No "R" in the chart, so I assumed in must be "R" for radial? But then what is "P"?

You must be right, it is likely the speed rating, and the chart I looked at incomplete or defective or something.
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Old 06-28-2012, 11:25 AM   #29406
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
Allan - Re: the IRC Battle Ready front - how did it do on pavement, and how long did it last?

I have about 2 K miles on it now and I figure it will be good for another 2 K, it handles real well on the road and in the dirt.
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Old 06-28-2012, 11:25 AM   #29407
thumpididump
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I wouldn't worry about it. So long as it's round, has knobs, and is made of rubber, then it should be good.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
Thanks Thump

I thought speed rating at first, but then I checked a chart here and saw this:

RATING RATED TOP SPEED MPH / KPH
J 62 mph / 100 kph
N 87 mph / 140 kph
P 94 mph / 150 kph
S 112 mph / 180 kph
H 130 mph / 210 kph
V 149 mph / 240 kph
Z 149+ mph / 240+ kph

No "R" in the chart, so I assumed in must be "R" for radial? But then what is "P"?

You must be right, it is likely the speed rating, and the chart I looked at incomplete or defective or something.
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Old 06-28-2012, 11:46 AM   #29408
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Usually the "R" is in there, followed by Rim size....eg, R 18, R 19, R 21.
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Old 06-28-2012, 04:38 PM   #29409
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I recently bought a Giant Loop Mojavi saddle pack and found the fit to be less than perfect with my Pro-Moto Billet rack. Some creative thinking, $15 for a 9" x 14" piece of heavy duty 1/4" aluminum, and a little elbow grease resulted in this. A friend took it to his work and put the little bend in it for me.



I re-used the same mounting hardware nuts & bolts. Because of the tapered fit up front, the Mojavi fits perfectly and there is just enough space at the rear for a 10 Liter roll bag.



Some hose clamps and a piece of aluminum flat bar prevents the bag from touching the hot muffler.



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Old 06-28-2012, 09:29 PM   #29410
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Nice rack an luggage setup!
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Old 06-29-2012, 06:16 AM   #29411
sturgeon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
Thanks Thump

I thought speed rating at first, but then I checked a chart here and saw this:

RATING RATED TOP SPEED MPH / KPH
J 62 mph / 100 kph
N 87 mph / 140 kph
P 94 mph / 150 kph
S 112 mph / 180 kph
H 130 mph / 210 kph
V 149 mph / 240 kph
Z 149+ mph / 240+ kph

No "R" in the chart, so I assumed in must be "R" for radial? But then what is "P"?

You must be right, it is likely the speed rating, and the chart I looked at incomplete or defective or something.
R can mean Radial or 170 km/h speed rating, depending on where it is in all the codes on the tire. It's more obvious on car/truck tires, where in a size like 265/70R15 the R stands for Radial. Beside that might be something like 95R where the 95 is a load rating and the R is the speed rating. (I'm making up those examples; I have no idea if they'd really exist exactly like that on a real tire). A real example is the rear Tourance on one of my bikes. It's 150/70R17 M/C 69V. The R in the size means Radial, the V after the 69 is the speed rating of 240 km/h. The Dennis Kirk page quoted above explains it reasonably well. Problem is that not every manufacturer does it exactly the same way.
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Old 06-29-2012, 06:36 AM   #29412
Rapid Dog
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I'd be willing to sell my new D606 120 rear at a discount so that I can try out a 110 if anyone is interested. Has about 100 miles on it...
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Old 06-29-2012, 07:26 AM   #29413
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Anyone who has both led signals front and rear: do i need two ELFR-1 relays from Custom LED for front and rear, or will just one work for both?
thanks
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Old 06-29-2012, 07:41 AM   #29414
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Only one.
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Old 06-29-2012, 10:08 AM   #29415
Ronin ADV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glorp View Post
Anyone who has both led signals front and rear: do i need two ELFR-1 relays from Custom LED for front and rear, or will just one work for both?
thanks
Just one. I went with the 12 o clock labs flasher relay when I added highway Dirt Bikes LEDs front and back and it was plug and play simple.
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