Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

[Just Bob]

Originally Posted by Shawnee Bill

Hey, maybe I spend too much time riding, don't have time to clean under there?



.

I went with a non-sealed chain for max performance. Downside is if you don't keep it clean it is toast. My bike actually just returned from a mud facial at our single-track spa. So there, mister smarty-pants. Nya ni na na.

[Pantah]

Originally Posted by philp38

Just wondering..I have a 40 mile ride to work (30 of it highway). Will the WR250R go 70 or is it pretty much topped out with the stock gearing? Thanks

Top speed for me is low 90's on my GPS. It seems happy to run GPS 70, but I generally am cruising 62-67. If I hit a grade dragging me to 60, I downshift and bring her back up. If happens again in 5th gear, I go to 4th and bring her back up. No problem. The bike revs well. You can run it wide open a lot, which we do when we are climbing grades or facing headwinds on the plains. Basically I try and run her 70mph indicated on the highway at all times. That will be an actual low 60's.

[jgiacobbe]

Originally Posted by Just Bob

I just went out and looked up my WR's skirt. No idea what the two empty bolt holes on the tab are for. Maybe they designed a pipe hanger there and changed their minds. The right corner looking from the back on mine is silver heat tape shielding. Otherwise, its the same as both pics - except clean.

Took mine to the car wash earlier. Looks the same. I don't think you are missing anything.

[jkstehn]

Originally Posted by philp38

Just wondering..I have a 40 mile ride to work (30 of it highway). Will the WR250R go 70 or is it pretty much topped out with the stock gearing? Thanks

I ride the LA freeways at 65 to 75 for about an hour each way to and from the mountain trail riding areas with no problems. Caught a slight downhill and tailwind in blazing fast traffic a few days ago and had the throttle on the stop for about 10 minutes trying to hang with traffic until I could get over to the "slow" lane. 86.9 mph is my new GPS top speed. Stock 13-43 gearing, probably 250lbs rider and tools, tubes, water with Safari tank (more drag?). 67 to 70 is comfortable.

I think that if the gears were 13-45 or 47, then the engine RPM could go higher in 6th before you ran out of steam and possibly obtain a slightly higher top speed.

Jon

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

[Cowgirl]

Originally Posted by pfy50

I assume you don't have the original key code chit that came with the key set so your dealer should be able use your full VIN# and make a key if he has equipment or get one sent from Yamaha. It will be cheaper than getting a new ignition, gas cap and helmet lock replaced!!

Thanks for the reply! I had the most fortuitous thing happen. I emailed the guy I bought the bike from and he had the extra key! He came across it some time in the last couple of months and had put it aside for me. I met up with him today, picked up the key and had 2 copies made Back in business!

[HighFive]

Originally Posted by bash3r

Thx a ton HF for sharing your wisdom here! Let me tell you, you just caused me to remember that before my ride down to Mississippi (and how come you weren't there??), I CHANGED my oil in both ways.. fresh oil and different brand. I went from the blue bottle at Walmart to Castrol GTX. Running the blue I never noticed this issue and I also noticed during my last ride neutral gave me fits here and there. Not too alarming but enough that I noticed.

Now, would you suggest I switch back or change the oil and put another dose of Castrol in?

My bike definitely still reacts/feels fine when I'm riding, no issues at all,

Basher

Myself....I wouldn't worry about it and bother dumping out good oil. The GTX doesn't (shouldn't) have any additives that will swell your fiber plates. So, its probably not the oil. But, I think I would change back to what you used previously at your next planned oil change....just to see if it makes a noticeable difference in the issue.

Another option to consider: lay the bike over on its side with the clutch cover facing upward. Remove the cover and inspect the plates. You can take them out fairly easily....6 bolts if I remember correctly. Be sure to keep track of the order of things and reinstall exactly the same. Remove the plates and inspect each one....clean them with a rag (no solvent). Look to see if any of the fiber is becoming disbonded from the plates. That could cause some grabbing in the clutch action. You'll have to look very carefully, as this would be very small amount. If it were a large amount, the whole fiber would rip off the plate and wad up inside your clutch and run thru your gear box.....it'd get chewed up and spit out, most likely.

I doubt you'll see any problems, but who knows. Its a possibility to consider if you notice your engagement situation getting worse. Laying the bike on its side, let's you do this inspection without losing your oil. But, its always a good idea to have a spare clutch cover gasket on hand, before attempting....in case you tear the original during removal. They are often stuck to the cover or case somewhere.

I read BigDog's RR on your trip at his website. Looks like you had a grand time of it. Me....I'm not retired yet. Probably never will be.

HF

[pfy50]

Originally Posted by Cowgirl

Thanks for the reply! I had the most fortuitous thing happen. I emailed the guy I bought the bike from and he had the extra key! He came across it some time in the last couple of months and had put it aside for me. I met up with him today, picked up the key and had 2 copies made Back in business!

Hey Cowgirl,
Glad it worked out. Within a week of getting my new bike in April I had lost my set on one key ring; luckly I had put the spare key on a separate key ring as backup. So I got 2 more blanks and made more copies and placed them in strategic locations just in case.

[bash3r]

Originally Posted by HighFive

Myself....I wouldn't worry about it and bother dumping out good oil. The GTX doesn't (shouldn't) have any additives that will swell your fiber plates. So, its probably not the oil. But, I think I would change back to what you used previously at your next planned oil change....just to see if it makes a noticeable difference in the issue.

I read BigDog's RR on your trip at his website. Looks like you had a grand time of it. Me....I'm not retired yet. Probably never will be.

HF

Thanks HF, I have a ride coming up in 9 days so I'm going to keep an eye on it, I'll probably switch oil back and just see.. just for the heck of it, kinda curious how it reacts.

I'll keep you posted .... for sure!

Yea we had a great ride, BigDog's a class act...a good friend indeed! getting to know Sam was awesome too, and to hear how he's been re-routing sections of the TAT. He's retired and very passionate about re-routing a few different sections of the TAT, both east & west. Anyone who's gonna ride it, make sure you look for the new routes, I know TN and MS are done, I rode some of both of them while down there.. we are going to get another ride in after it cools down!!

[ADVCoop]

Originally Posted by philp38

Just wondering..I have a 40 mile ride to work (30 of it highway). Will the WR250R go 70 or is it pretty much topped out with the stock gearing? Thanks

I commute everyday on my WRR. It does 70-75 easily with my 215#'s on it. I generally ride in the 60's though because that grants me better mpg and I am chea...errr...frugal and like to get the best mpg I can while commuting .

[jglow]

Originally Posted by bash3r

Jordan, when we getting a ride in.. maybe this fall?! a Arkansas trip or something

Sounds like a plan . Maybe I'll get in on some of the new Eastern TAT sections with you in the fall ?


Jordan

[DougZ73]

I am potentially having some chain slider issues, and currently have a 12T front sprocket. I of course have always been on the side that its a chain maintainance issue/ slack issue, when the slider gets worn. I keep my chains very clean, and always have plenty of slack.

Now that I have the 300 EXC for a dedicated woods bike, I have started doing longer dual sport type rides. After last one, about 90 miles, I noticed what I thought was drops of chain lube. BUT, they also looked very much like little specs of worn plastic. I inspected the slider and saw it was a little more worn that usual. I am gonna pull off and get a better look.

13/43(stock) = 3.31
12/45 = 3.75 (now)
13/45 = 3.46

I had gone to a 12T in front for more grunt, and then as I started getting faster, I wanted 2nd gear to have more grunt and more " loft the front wheel" ability, so I went to the 45 rear. This was important, since I did not wanna buy a new chain as well.

Now, I am thinking about going back to a 13T front, but keep the 45T rear.
Question: Will it fit with stock length chain( probably slightly worn)???

[Sewerat]

I'm running a 13/47 with a 110 chain. It's adjusted about 3 hash marks into the marks so close to the frame. I'd think you should be fine with 13/45. I can fit 12,13,14 all on no problem.

[Rider_WV]

13/43 is stock so 13/45 on a stock length chain, especially a used one, shouldnt be an issue at all.

[DougZ73]

OK, thanks guys. Looks like the stock 13 might be going back on.

[bash3r]

Originally Posted by DougZ73

OK, thanks guys. Looks like the stock 13 might be going back on.

I"m 10K+ miles and still on first chain slider... I run 13/47 + 110 chain and thus far haven't wore through or come close yet... I know some are on their 3rd and 4th!