ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 07-10-2012, 04:47 PM   #29581
DougZ73
Fading off.........
 
DougZ73's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: NJ
Oddometer: 6,827
I have seen enough pictures of cracked cases from my DRZ owning days, for the fifty cents, I am happy to use a new one every other change.
__________________
Skyline Drive 11/2010 , Catskills 2010 trip, Catskills 2011 , Southern TNJT, 2011
DougZ's MTB thread , DZ Moto Photo Bloggin' , (my) Learning photography thread, DougZ vids
- Ryder Joseph Z. , Born 11/26/12-- the next Adventure: Grayson Hunter Z., born 5/3/14
DougZ73 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2012, 04:57 PM   #29582
scottmac
Beastly Adventurer
 
scottmac's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2008
Location: La Selva Beach, CA.
Oddometer: 1,512
My problem is usually rounding out the drain plug just trying to break it loose. Good to run the engine for
10 minutes or so beforehand to get everything nice and heated up and then put a wrench on it.
scottmac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2012, 04:59 PM   #29583
HighFive
Never Tap-Out
 
HighFive's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Okiehoma
Oddometer: 2,683
Oil Drain Plug Crush Washers

Suit yourself, use it as many times as you please.

Me......I change it every time. Most crush washers are made (intended) for single use.

SkierD's advice is quite accurate. You would be wise to follow it. Last time I bought a bag-full, they cost me all of 50 cents a piece.

Yamabond #4 is a thread sealant made to perform in contact with oil. Perfectly designed for an oil drain plug. It is neither Loctite (thread locking), nor Permatex (gasket making) type of material. It is good.....(correction).....incredibly good stuff for this specific application. It has no equal, that I'm aware. I use it on any bolt that needs securing that could contact a hydrocarbon liquid. Buy it at the Yamaha shop. One tube lasts half a lifetime, if you secure the cap and don't poke a hole in the tube.

HF

p.s. I replace my drain plug with a fresh one ever so often.......whenever the head starts getting rounded in the least. Those things tend to be soft. And a sharp head is important to proper torque. Yes.....I torque the drain bolt to exact spec. It always seems too low of a torque setting to me....but I've never lost one or had a leak (using a fresh crush washer).
__________________
'13 Husky TR650 Terra, '11 Husaberg FE390, '10 BMW F800GS, '12 BMW R1200GS
The Okie-Dokie BDR Terra-izing the CDR Bergs Over the Rainbow
Texas or Bust! Rocky Mountain HighFive The Other Side of Nowhere
Athena Big Bore Project

HighFive screwed with this post 07-10-2012 at 05:05 PM
HighFive is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2012, 05:27 PM   #29584
oPAULo
jack of all terrain
 
oPAULo's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Bedford, Indiana
Oddometer: 3,889
Quote:
Originally Posted by HighFive View Post

Most crush washers are made (intended) for single use.
You are correct but these aren't really actual "crush" washers like you would find on a spark plug. They're just aluminum or copper or brass flat washers. They're soft so they will conform to any machining anomalies in the case or the bolt head and prevent leaks. If the washer deforms so much it gets into the threads of the bolt it can cause problems. It takes a long time to deform one that much using the proper torque.

How are you guys cleaning sealant out of the threads in the case every time? Or do you just pack more in on top of the old?
oPAULo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2012, 05:39 PM   #29585
TwilightZone
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Behind the Redwood Curtain
Oddometer: 2,806
Re-anneal the 'crush' washer... to red hot and let it cool.
Restores softness in the copper... lets it reseal.
__________________
"I don't really know, I've been too busy falling down."
TwilightZone is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2012, 05:43 PM   #29586
oPAULo
jack of all terrain
 
oPAULo's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Bedford, Indiana
Oddometer: 3,889
Isn't anneal low heat and harden is high heat?
oPAULo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2012, 06:10 PM   #29587
Longboardr
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Longboardr's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Location: south central PA
Oddometer: 143
Here's a link to safety wiring a street bike for (presumably) a track day

http://www.rc51.org/wire1.htm

Here's the safety wire pliers I own a set of, you can use regualr pliers if you wish. I bought them because I'm a tool junkie and they came with good stainless steel safety wire

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...TY+WIRE+PLIERS


Longboardr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2012, 06:25 PM   #29588
Attico
Wrong way 'round
 
Attico's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
Oddometer: 1,823
Hi all

Powerbomb or megabomb... It is going in front of a powercore...
__________________
“If you think adventure is dangerous, try routine; it is lethal.” (Coelho)
Attico is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2012, 06:47 PM   #29589
Ryel
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Ryel's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Oddometer: 234
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Fisherman View Post
311 miles yesterday, all but 96 on dirt.

DUDE! where are you riding so much dirt?
keep on truckin Fish
__________________
"Good judgment comes from experience and experience comes from bad judgment."
Ryel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2012, 03:25 AM   #29590
jon_l
Beastly Adventurer
 
jon_l's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2008
Location: Collingwood, Ontario
Oddometer: 2,899
Quote:
Originally Posted by HighFive View Post

Yamabond #4 is a thread sealant made to perform in contact with oil. Perfectly designed for an oil drain plug. It is neither Loctite (thread locking), nor Permatex (gasket making) type of material. It is good.....(correction).....incredibly good stuff for this specific application. It has no equal, that I'm aware. I use it on any bolt that needs securing that could contact a hydrocarbon liquid. Buy it at the Yamaha shop. One tube lasts half a lifetime, if you secure the cap and don't poke a hole in the tube.

.
Thanks for clearing up my misconception. I saw "Locktite" and "Yamabond" and made a wrong assumption.

Drain plug, Yamabond #4, and drain plug washers are on the shopping list.
__________________
'09 Honda CBF1000
jon_l is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2012, 12:22 AM   #29591
etingelefunts
retem-odo
 
etingelefunts's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2012
Location: Southeastern U.S.
Oddometer: 812
Quote:
Originally Posted by oPAULo View Post
Isn't anneal low heat and harden is high heat?
Temper (draw) is low heat.
Brass (and similarly copper) soften (anneal) if rapidly quenched (cooled) after heating.
Slowww cooling or forming/compression of brass and copper washers usually makes them brittle.
Steels react opposite; rapidly quenching steels makes them harder, brittle, and often cracking.

Annealing varies widely by type of steel, but usually involves heating to temperatures up close to those used for hardening, and verry slowwwww controlled cool down. Tempering a hardened part involves moderate to low heat after heat treating/quench, to reduce brittleness.

Reasons for each (typical);

Harden= resists deforming
Temper =Toughness and less likely to chip
Anneal = Makes soft and machinable and less likely to fracture or crack
__________________
Less pondering. Simply march ahead, to the ends of this majestic planet.
etingelefunts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2012, 09:13 AM   #29592
dadthemechanic
Adventurer
 
dadthemechanic's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2011
Location: Trophy Club TX
Oddometer: 28
Somebody paid attention in school.
__________________
Baker

Before you insult a man, walk a mile in his shoes. That way, when you insult him, you'll be a mile away, and have his shoes.
dadthemechanic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2012, 09:33 AM   #29593
DougZ73
Fading off.........
 
DougZ73's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: NJ
Oddometer: 6,827
Quote:
Originally Posted by dadthemechanic View Post
Somebody paid attention in school.
Or did a quick google search.
__________________
Skyline Drive 11/2010 , Catskills 2010 trip, Catskills 2011 , Southern TNJT, 2011
DougZ's MTB thread , DZ Moto Photo Bloggin' , (my) Learning photography thread, DougZ vids
- Ryder Joseph Z. , Born 11/26/12-- the next Adventure: Grayson Hunter Z., born 5/3/14
DougZ73 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2012, 01:32 PM   #29594
IdahoRenegade
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Sagle, Idaho
Oddometer: 1,384
Exhaust options w/o repacking?

Are there any exhaust options that don't require regular repacking (other than stock)? I know the DR650 guys swap in "takeoff" GXSR cans pretty often and wonder if there is something similar for our bikes. Part of the beauty of the WR is the low maintenance; I don't want a can I have to repack several times a season.
IdahoRenegade is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2012, 03:52 PM   #29595
Joe Watson
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joe Watson's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Sunshine Coast, Qld, Aus.
Oddometer: 1,028
Staintune exhausts don't need repacking and make one specific for the WR:

http://www.staintune.com.au/exhausts...AMS_WR25RX.htm
Joe Watson is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 01:17 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014