Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

[jon_l]

Originally Posted by ADVCoop

Not my picture nor is it a pic of a WR250R but you can get the idea. I have safety wired drain plugs before and plan to order one of the Wheeling bolts this Friday. Thanks for that link!

Thanks for the photo.

With a skid-plate, the safety wire would be different, I assume? I was thinking I'd need drill the bolt (or order from WCS) & skid-plate in a North-South orientation so it doesn't catch weeds and sticks.

[DougZ73]

I have seen enough pictures of cracked cases from my DRZ owning days, for the fifty cents, I am happy to use a new one every other change.

[scottmac]

My problem is usually rounding out the drain plug just trying to break it loose. Good to run the engine for
10 minutes or so beforehand to get everything nice and heated up and then put a wrench on it.

[HighFive]

Suit yourself, use it as many times as you please.

Me......I change it every time. Most crush washers are made (intended) for single use.

SkierD's advice is quite accurate. You would be wise to follow it. Last time I bought a bag-full, they cost me all of 50 cents a piece.

Yamabond #4 is a thread sealant made to perform in contact with oil. Perfectly designed for an oil drain plug. It is neither Loctite (thread locking), nor Permatex (gasket making) type of material. It is good.....(correction).....incredibly good stuff for this specific application. It has no equal, that I'm aware. I use it on any bolt that needs securing that could contact a hydrocarbon liquid. Buy it at the Yamaha shop. One tube lasts half a lifetime, if you secure the cap and don't poke a hole in the tube.

HF

p.s. I replace my drain plug with a fresh one ever so often.......whenever the head starts getting rounded in the least. Those things tend to be soft. And a sharp head is important to proper torque. Yes.....I torque the drain bolt to exact spec. It always seems too low of a torque setting to me....but I've never lost one or had a leak (using a fresh crush washer).

[oPAULo]

Originally Posted by HighFive

Most crush washers are made (intended) for single use.

You are correct but these aren't really actual "crush" washers like you would find on a spark plug. They're just aluminum or copper or brass flat washers. They're soft so they will conform to any machining anomalies in the case or the bolt head and prevent leaks. If the washer deforms so much it gets into the threads of the bolt it can cause problems. It takes a long time to deform one that much using the proper torque.

How are you guys cleaning sealant out of the threads in the case every time? Or do you just pack more in on top of the old?

[TwilightZone]

Re-anneal the 'crush' washer... to red hot and let it cool.
Restores softness in the copper... lets it reseal.

[oPAULo]

Isn't anneal low heat and harden is high heat?

[Longboardr]

Here's a link to safety wiring a street bike for (presumably) a track day

http://www.rc51.org/wire1.htm

Here's the safety wire pliers I own a set of, you can use regualr pliers if you wish. I bought them because I'm a tool junkie and they came with good stainless steel safety wire

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...TY+WIRE+PLIERS

[Attico]

Hi all

Powerbomb or megabomb... It is going in front of a powercore...

[Ryel]

Originally Posted by Mr. Fisherman

311 miles yesterday, all but 96 on dirt.

DUDE! where are you riding so much dirt?
keep on truckin Fish

[jon_l]

Originally Posted by HighFive

Yamabond #4 is a thread sealant made to perform in contact with oil. Perfectly designed for an oil drain plug. It is neither Loctite (thread locking), nor Permatex (gasket making) type of material. It is good.....(correction).....incredibly good stuff for this specific application. It has no equal, that I'm aware. I use it on any bolt that needs securing that could contact a hydrocarbon liquid. Buy it at the Yamaha shop. One tube lasts half a lifetime, if you secure the cap and don't poke a hole in the tube.

.

Thanks for clearing up my misconception. I saw "Locktite" and "Yamabond" and made a wrong assumption.

Drain plug, Yamabond #4, and drain plug washers are on the shopping list.

[etingelefunts]

Originally Posted by oPAULo

Isn't anneal low heat and harden is high heat?

Temper (draw) is low heat.
Brass (and similarly copper) soften (anneal) if rapidly quenched (cooled) after heating.
Slowww cooling or forming/compression of brass and copper washers usually makes them brittle.
Steels react opposite; rapidly quenching steels makes them harder, brittle, and often cracking.

Annealing varies widely by type of steel, but usually involves heating to temperatures up close to those used for hardening, and verry slowwwww controlled cool down. Tempering a hardened part involves moderate to low heat after heat treating/quench, to reduce brittleness.

Reasons for each (typical);

Harden= resists deforming
Temper =Toughness and less likely to chip
Anneal = Makes soft and machinable and less likely to fracture or crack

[dadthemechanic]

Somebody paid attention in school.

[DougZ73]

Originally Posted by dadthemechanic

Somebody paid attention in school.

Or did a quick google search.

[IdahoRenegade]

Are there any exhaust options that don't require regular repacking (other than stock)? I know the DR650 guys swap in "takeoff" GXSR cans pretty often and wonder if there is something similar for our bikes. Part of the beauty of the WR is the low maintenance; I don't want a can I have to repack several times a season.