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Old 08-03-2012, 12:20 PM   #29881
Heoz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueLghtning View Post
Is there any difference in the front or rear suspension between an R & X model? Is it just settings or do they have different springs/oil between them? Is the amount of travel different? I would imagine the X models are more setup for street with a stiffer ride and the R models are more setup for the dirt?
I compared part numbers between 2009 X & R suspensions at one point and the two items that stuck out from the viewpoint of the way the suspension functions were: one of the valves in the forks and the shock assembly. Price wise, the cost of the shocks were different, I don't recall for the valves. What that amounts to - your guess is as good as any.
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Old 08-03-2012, 01:08 PM   #29882
thornstein
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Originally Posted by GsVs View Post
hey ...

The Garage looks great ...

Quick question - what windscreen is that ?? ... and does it perform ???

Thanks ...
It's a Cee Bailey. Gets the wind off my chest. Keeps the rain to a minimum when hauling ass as well. I'm 6'3" so it's not going to do wonders for me but I would easily buy it again.
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Old 08-03-2012, 01:10 PM   #29883
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Originally Posted by tommu56 View Post
were did you get these cabinets I need them to hide my junk from my wife!
Sam's club. Made by Seville Classics. Easy assembly, Very sturdy as long as you aren't stocking transmissions on the shelves. Would buy them again without hesitation. Much cheaper than the Gladiator series from Sears, etc.
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Old 08-03-2012, 03:17 PM   #29884
Joe Watson
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Hi all,

I know I am getting ahead of myself here with my projects, I haven't even finished my toolbox bashplate (aptly nicknamed "Mr Plow") let alone my rally fairing. But I am starting to think about a rear tank now. These are the two options I have so far. Thoughts?



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Old 08-03-2012, 03:30 PM   #29885
Gany
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Im hoping to visit safari tanks when my bike is back together to see what might fit best. The husaberg tanks are another option too.
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Old 08-03-2012, 03:40 PM   #29886
Joe Watson
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hahahah do we have the EXACT same vision for our bikes or what????

That is what I was planning on doing, just visiting their workshop and trying some out to see what would fit best.......but it would be a BIG ride for me, coming from the Sunny Coast in Queensland......

I was going to see if anyone more local had either of these tanks and wouldn't mind taking it off for me to trail fit.

I know that the bike, especially the rear plastic, will need some modifications and also making up a low slung exhaust and extra subframe section, but I LOVE a challenge!!
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Old 08-03-2012, 04:45 PM   #29887
Gany
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Yeah I dont think I can be bothered with the hassle of modifying the exhaust so Im hoping one of the others will fit over the top. That would have the advantage too of being able to run some sort of soft luggage without it touching the exhaust as well.

Be good to see what you come up with for yours!
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Old 08-03-2012, 07:13 PM   #29888
Yam2Yam2
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Lead shot to damp bar vibration

Just wanted to post quick feedback on my latest mod. I'm riding a stock-tired, stock-geared WRr on the street, and my hands go completely numb after about an hour. Today I did my first oil change, and then tipped the bike on her side, took off the throttle grip, and filled the bar up with 7 1/2 lead shot. I sealed the throttle end with hot-melt glue, to keep the shot from locking up the throttle. This has worked *fantastic*, greatly reducing vibs. It had a side effect of making my bike feel faster, cause the vibs don't make me want to slow down.
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Old 08-03-2012, 10:18 PM   #29889
Yam2Yam2
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Stock exhaust (mild mods) sound check

http://www.youtube.com/embed/QJJlXH_Y7UY
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Old 08-03-2012, 10:26 PM   #29890
Yam2Yam2
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Stock exhaust (w/ mild mods) Sound Check

Recorded how my exhaust sounds, wanted to know if it was obnoxious to others. It's actually not much louder than the tire noise! I did passes at minimal throttle, all the way up to full throttle launch and peak HP rpm shifts.

I disconnected the EXUP cables, drilled the airbox top, punched a handful of 1/4" holes in the midpipe baffle, and drilled 8 1/8" holes around the tailpipe.

I ride w/o earplugs, and wind noise is louder than exhaust, but there's a nice, deep tone.

http://www.youtube.com/embed/QJJlXH_Y7UY

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Old 08-04-2012, 09:14 AM   #29891
jon_l
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lowering questions

I lowered the WRR per this info

Rear is probably 1 mm from having the stud flush to the bottom of the clevis. I can feel the stud, but it isn't quite flush.

Re: the front - the tutorial says "push the fork leg up in the triple clamp to desired height".

Not fiding any clear direction on how much, I raised the forks so they are 1/2" from the clamps to the top of tube (not top of cap).

Took a test ride, trying to decide, is it better or worse, OK, or not OK. Feels fine, seat height is def. a lot better. Kickstand angle is still fine.

One concern, maybe I am just paranoid, while it rides, and steers fine, if I push on the bars while moving, it is very responsive. Not sure how it was before, I guess I didn't pay enough attention before I did the lowering.

***********EDIT***********

Just back from a longer ride, including a little highway. Everything seems fine.

Feedback on how much others have raised the forks would be appreciated though.

Thank you.

Jon

Is 1/2" about right? Or did I go too far?
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Old 08-04-2012, 10:36 AM   #29892
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>"Feedback on how much others have raised the forks would be appreciated though."

About 5/8 inch on mine. Makes handling a little quicker. IMHO: Fine.
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Old 08-04-2012, 10:48 AM   #29893
DougZ73
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Raising forks, on any motorcycle, makes for quicker "turn in"...and more responsive/twitchier. It changes the geometry is such way, that the bike wants to turn more.

Conversely, what it is supposed to do is make it less stable at high speed/ highways. With street bikes, there is a fine balance in doing this, because if you make it un stable enough, it will want to tank slap..never fun.

Because of the bike's geometry, with the WRR/X, not sure how much it matters. My personal requirements is it turns how I want offroad, and is stable enough on road that I can do high speed, and take hands off bars, and it stays going straight.
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Old 08-04-2012, 10:55 AM   #29894
jon_l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DougZ73 View Post
Raising forks, on any motorcycle, makes for quicker "turn in"...and more responsive/twitchier. It changes the geometry is such way, that the bike wants to turn more.

Conversely, what it is supposed to do is make it less stable at high speed/ highways. With street bikes, there is a fine balance in doing this, because if you make it un stable enough, it will want to tank slap..never fun.

Because of the bike's geometry, with the WRR/X, not sure how much it matters. My personal requirements is it turns how I want offroad, and is stable enough on road that I can do high speed, and take hands off bars, and it stays going straight.
Thanks Doug. I wasn't trying to change the handling characteristics, but simply to return it to "neutral" handling after lowering the rear. The ratio of lowering front and rear is apparently not 1:1, and there doesn't seem to be any definitive way to know the magic number.

I guess if it seems OK, it probably is. 1/2" doesn't seem out of line with what other folks report doing.
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Old 08-04-2012, 12:17 PM   #29895
jon_l
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Wolfman Rolie Bag Small on rear rack

Has anyone used the Wolfman Rolie Bag (size small) as a tail-bag on a GYTR rear rack?

I'd love to see photos, get feedback.

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