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Old 08-06-2012, 09:40 PM   #29971
The Breeze
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Joined: Dec 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gryphon12 View Post
Gear ratios:

14 front, 50 rear is Big Dog's favorite @ 3.57:1
13 front, 46 rear is Chad-X's favorite @ 3.54:1

Two different riders, agree on almost the same ratio as perfect for this bike.

Hmm...makes me wonder if I shouldn't start here.

Since the 14 tooth CS sprocket barely fits, and the 13 tooth CS is stock, is there any reason not to run the 13:46?

The reason I went 14/50 over 13/46, is because I carry a 13 tooth CS with me, as well. That way, If I want to turn the bike into a tractor, I have the option of doing so. One could argue that you could do the same with the 13/46 combo, and carry a 12 tooth CS......but I'm worried about the 12 tooth cutting into the swingarm (although many people run 12's without issue).

Having said this.......for long haul trips (like the TAT, CDR, etc.), either of these combos should be perfect (i.e., low enough for the tough stuff/steep grades, still good on the slab). I rode the Utah and Colorado portions of the TAT, and the CDR, last summer with stock gearing and D606's (fully loaded with camping gear, etc.), and the bike did fine.....but, It would have been perfect with a little lower gearing....hence the change to the 14/50 set-up.
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Old 08-06-2012, 09:58 PM   #29972
Dirtnadvil
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I am using the Flatland Racing tail rack with success. The Turbo City Borego rack didn't work until I had it modified, then it worked great for larger loads. For hand guards I use the Acerbis Multi pro set upwith the larger brush guard, it has worked great also.
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Old 08-06-2012, 09:58 PM   #29973
Gryphon12
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I was going to use a 14:46 for Super Moto (17" wheels, street tires) and 13:46 for off-road. I can't see myself using the "tractor" gearing.
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Old 08-07-2012, 12:59 AM   #29974
Joe Watson
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Location: Sunshine Coast, Qld, Aus.
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Hi all,

I just changed my front brake line to a braided line and I can't get any feel at all back into the lever. I pumped fluid into the line before putting the bottom banjo bolt on. I have pumped and pumped and bled and bled, but I can't get any brake feel AT ALL into the lever. It is just pulling straight to the grip with no resistance. HELP!!!
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Old 08-07-2012, 03:00 AM   #29975
jon_l
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Location: Toronto, Ontario
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krabill View Post
Glad I didn't read this before I put mine on. Yes, there was a little grunt work involved, but it fits like a charm.

OEM tail rack and Wolfman side racks -

You are right of course Krabill. I should have written that it can be done, but not plug-and-play, they use the same mounting points.

From Wolfman:

From: Brycen Zolnick
To: jl45672930@yahoo.com
Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2012 12:00:56 PM
Subject: RE: WR250R Wolfman luggage set-up

Hi Jon,

Unfortunately it will require some modification to get these racks to work together, the problem is that they share the mounting points at the helmet lock and just above the exhaust. Some people have gotten it to work, but we don’t know how or what they did. Just for reference in case you might want to consider modifying something, the mount tabs on our racks are ¼” thick. Also, they do not require the passenger pegs to be removed.

Thanks Jon, let me know if you have any more questions or concerns.

Brycen Zolnick
Sales and Technical Support

brycen@wolfmanluggage.com

Office (800) 535-8131 ext.106
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Old 08-07-2012, 03:05 AM   #29976
jon_l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoFlow View Post
Don't you just hate it when that happens.

It seems the way to prove something can be done and has been done is to tell a bunch of you FFs that it can't!

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Old 08-07-2012, 03:56 AM   #29977
Krabill
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Old 08-07-2012, 04:21 AM   #29978
z@ch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Watson View Post
Hi all,

I just changed my front brake line to a braided line and I can't get any feel at all back into the lever. I pumped fluid into the line before putting the bottom banjo bolt on. I have pumped and pumped and bled and bled, but I can't get any brake feel AT ALL into the lever. It is just pulling straight to the grip with no resistance. HELP!!!
Get a big syringe and use it to force fluid UP from the caliper to the master cylinder.
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Old 08-07-2012, 04:44 AM   #29979
ADVCoop
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Location: Acme, PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freetors View Post
I'm thinking about experimenting with some street tires on my R. I don't want to get a set of SM wheels so I'm looking for 21/18 tires. Anybody have suggestions for good and sticky, cheap tires? I don't really care how long they last, as long as they go about 5k miles or so. I just want them to be cheap and sticky.
That's a tall order; cheap, sticky, yet still last 5000 miles. I know you can get Bridgestone battleaxe's in 21/18 combo I saw them at CycleGear and online a few places. I have zero experience with them though. I am going the SM 17" wheel route this fall/winter.
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Old 08-07-2012, 04:57 AM   #29980
Joe Watson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by z@ch View Post
Get a big syringe and use it to force fluid UP from the caliper to the master cylinder.
Well, I ended up sorting it out. I had to take the master cylinder off and bring it and the brake line right down to the ground so it was all lower than the bleed point. Bled it a few times and instant brakes!! So bled it for a while more to make sure there was no air at all. Very good feeling on the lever now.
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Old 08-07-2012, 06:56 AM   #29981
freetors
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADVCoop View Post
That's a tall order; cheap, sticky, yet still last 5000 miles. I know you can get Bridgestone battleaxe's in 21/18 combo I saw them at CycleGear and online a few places. I have zero experience with them though. I am going the SM 17" wheel route this fall/winter.
I was just throwing a number out. If I got 5000 out that would be great, but I only need them to last for maybe a summer. I'd like to stay under $75 each. I'm willing to try shinkos, duros, etc as long as they have generally good feedback.
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Old 08-07-2012, 07:00 AM   #29982
pfy50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikef5000 View Post
Can't you just put the computer into CO mode, then adjust your new tach to match the computers tach?
TNX, Mikef5000
Heoz answered the question easiest way. I just wanted the math/numerical way(nonelectrical backup) to figure out what the approx. RPM should be. I installed a new TTO tach and you have to go into setup mode to get the correct crank shaft rotation multiplier (1.- 2. - 1/2.) unfortunately the tach won't go into setup mode. The tach reads approx. 3500-3600rpm while @ 60mph. So I just have to double the readout for correct RPM. I will use the Diag/Co test later today to electronically confirm the numbers.
Paul
ps. Do you have to do that ground wire mod on the lean angle sensor to get it to go into CO mod on the gauge??
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pfy50 screwed with this post 08-07-2012 at 09:14 AM
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Old 08-07-2012, 08:06 AM   #29983
BarKnee
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Cool2

Headed across Oregon to meet up with my old buddy Jack from Montana. Took a paved/gravel mixed route across eastern Oregon and met up in Enterprise for some camping and aimless meandering.[/URL]





My old buddy Jack looking for FS roads to check out.


Found some nice lightly travelled roads through forest and ranch country.


Our last day we headed for Dug Bar road in Hells Canyon. A tad warmish but fun, scenic, and about all the challenge my amateur ass could handle.








Little blue bike handled everything with ease and rolled out a 400 mile day of pavement to get me home, no worries
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Old 08-07-2012, 09:33 AM   #29984
Crawdaddy
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Brews and Blues Report

Fun weekend in Mammoth Lakes, CA..

Trip report/pics: http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....5&postcount=40

Teaser:

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Old 08-07-2012, 09:48 AM   #29985
Serevince
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Utilitarian sprockets and chain? I don't put a ton of miles on the bike. Probably will never wear a set out.

Part numbers and sources would be a big help, also chain length?

Is this a pretty straight forward operation? I can turn a wrench, but have zero motorcycle experience.

Leaning towards 14/50 if that matters?


Thanks

Vince

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