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Old 08-09-2012, 01:10 PM   #30016
ecarnell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oh2RideMore View Post
Alright, riding my wr again while I wait on clutch cable for the versys. At night my hid in stock headlight lense is not cutting it any more, as it eroded the silver lining. Looking for opinion on 3 options I am thinking about.
1. Baja designs replacement lense with a new hid kit
2. baja designs or trailtech 8 inch racing hid light
3. baja designs squadron.

I don't care about the legality issue, just want light on the road properly aimed. Cutoff will be good enough. What do you guys think is the best aftermarket option of those, or suggest another option. Love the single round headlight look, but the work involved in the install looks daunting. Squadron would be plug and play for most part, but needs dimmer for true high low operation.
Mine:
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Old 08-09-2012, 01:26 PM   #30017
Oh2RideMore
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that would be my exact bike

Have the same zeta handguards, so that gives me a good impression of the look. Did you write up an install report ecarnell ?
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Old 08-09-2012, 01:42 PM   #30018
what broke now
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Tiresome Subject

I was on my 2008 yesterday on some gnarly switchbacks and had what I am pretty sure was a fuel pump episode. The pump was changed for new in 2010. The occurance was an extended uphill in about 80 degree temps, I stalled in the switchback and could only get 3 seconds of idle, then die, on restart attempts. I did not hear the pump noise when the key was switched on in the restart attempts. I touched the top of the metal fuel tank and it was warm but not hot, and had ~ 1.6 gallons in it. The guy behind me was spewing coolant briefly, but iirc, my fan was not on, and it does work. About 15 minutes of cool-off & it started and ran fine.

Anyone else had a problem with a newer pump? I can't be positive it's the pump, but I heard no whirring noise till it cooled. A breakdown where I was riding would have been a trial. Anybody installed a non-yamaha pump that works?
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Old 08-09-2012, 02:09 PM   #30019
ADVCoop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikef5000 View Post
I would use a relay, but a distribution block shouldn't be necessary in a simple install.

.
The benefit is if you want to add a 2nd or 3rd accessory all you have to do is tie into the block. Not extra wiring required. I have heated grips, a 12v power outlet and a heated vest running off this setup. You only have to do the work once and everything after that is easy .
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Old 08-09-2012, 02:35 PM   #30020
ramz
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Quote:
Anyone else had a problem with a newer pump?
There have been a few reports of failures with "new" pumps on this forum and that other place. When I read about the problems I was bothered only momentarily and then went on about my business. Now that you've posted this, it brings that suppressed nagging issue back to the fore. I wonder if those riders having problems with "new" pumps actually had pumps with the older 'bad' motors in them. It seems reasonable to me that when the '08 WRRs were manufactured, Yamaha would have set parts aside for dealer ordering and stocking. I'll bet they do this according to demand, setting aside more parts as parts are ordered. So any given pump could have a good or bad motor in it - they all have the same Yamaha part number, so how would the warehouse parts pickers even be able to tell the difference?

I have a new spare fuel pump sitting on the shelf and I'm going to look at it to see if I can see the number on the motor and look back at posts where the pump was disassembled to see if I can tell if the motor in my pump is 'good' or 'bad'.
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Old 08-09-2012, 03:31 PM   #30021
ecarnell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oh2RideMore View Post
Have the same zeta handguards, so that gives me a good impression of the look. Did you write up an install report ecarnell ?
Didn't do a write up - but followed one from wr250r forum.
I'm running a 7" standard h4 - so plug and play and no hid to worry about.
Took about an evening to drill out the bolts for the brackets - though went pretty well.
I'm running a 80/100 now - and did a 800km 18hr "race" - plenty of early morning (4:14am) till dark (10:08pm) riding - and never would I have really wanted/needed anymore light.



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Old 08-09-2012, 03:51 PM   #30022
Mikef5000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oh2RideMore View Post
Alright, riding my wr again while I wait on clutch cable for the versys. At night my hid in stock headlight lense is not cutting it any more, as it eroded the silver lining. Looking for opinion on 3 options I am thinking about.
1. Baja designs replacement lense with a new hid kit
2. baja designs or trailtech 8 inch racing hid light
3. baja designs squadron.
If I could afford it, I'd go with the Baja Designs Squadron setup with an AdvMonster rotary dimmer for high/low function (http://stores.intuitwebsites.com/hst...ith/Detail.bok).
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Old 08-09-2012, 05:01 PM   #30023
what broke now
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"disassembled to see if I can tell if the motor in my pump is 'good' or 'bad'."

But you mentioned the other site: here is a quote from someone on there that did that: " Anyway . . . to sum up . . . it's a royal pita to take it apart and you'll most likely wind up cracking something in the process." Not to say that would be the outcome in your case...

I wonder if somebody has adapted the pump base to serve a proven, reliable, submersible pump with a long track record that would do the job. Might not be worth the effort, but then again? Short of carrying a spare along on each ride, the notion of rolling the thing out of the woods i was in is not a tempting prospect. It would have taken the three of us all day and ruined that ride, plus possibly my reputation as a guy to ride with. Yamaha doesn't appear to have taken this seriously.
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Old 08-09-2012, 05:44 PM   #30024
OLEARY
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Location: Rogers, AR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by what broke now View Post
The guy behind me was spewing coolant briefly, but iirc, my fan was not on, and it does work. About 15 minutes of cool-off & it started and ran fine. Anyone else had a problem with a newer pump? I can't be positive it's the pump, but I heard no whirring noise till it cooled. A breakdown where I was riding would have been a trial. Anybody installed a non-yamaha pump that works?
I had a similar experience last weekend. More than half a tank of fuel, temperature was about 105F. Rode most of the day with no problem. Late in the afternoon it started to cut out like it was starved for fuel, similar to your experience. If I stopped and let it sit for a while it would run fine for about 45 minutes and then it would start to cut out again. This is the original pump and I have about 30,000 miles on an 08 bike. I replaced it with a new Yamaha replacement a year ago when I was going for a long trip and ran the new pump for about 5000 miles. I put the old pump back in when I had some hesitation with the new pump. I have I have a 14 liter Safari tank and I have had suspicions that water might collect in the wings from bad fuel but I really think this last episode was heat related. It was almost like the pump was overheating and once it cooled off it worked fine. This is all total conjecture on my part but that is what it acted like.
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Old 08-09-2012, 06:53 PM   #30025
freetors
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Hey guys I'm having a real bad problem with my chain flailing wildly from side to side. It starts doing this from about 45 mph and up but somewhat intermittently. Throttle position seems to have an effect too. It makes the bike feel like one of my wheels is badly out of true. The vibration is causing my headlight shroud, instruments, and mirrors to jiggle side to side rapidly. This side to side play is causing the rear chain guide to wear very rapidly (down to the metal on one side).

I put on a new chain and sprocket set about 2-3000 miles ago and this problem has just shown up within the last 500 miles or so and it's getting worse. I'm running 14/49 with a renthal sprocket on front and a steel JT on the back with a lower end RK chain with clip master link. The clip is on tight and installed correctly. I've tightened up the chain as much as I dare, about .5" play with the swingarm pivot, axle, and countershaft aligned.

Anybody ever have this annoying problem before?

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Old 08-09-2012, 07:07 PM   #30026
bhd1223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freetors View Post
Hey guys I'm having a real bad problem with my chain flailing wildly from side to side. It starts doing this from about 45 mph and up but somewhat intermittently. Throttle position seems to have an effect too. It makes the bike feel like one of my wheels is badly out of true. The vibration is causing my headlight shroud, instruments, and mirrors to jiggle side to side rapidly. This side to side play is causing the rear chain guide to wear very rapidly (down to the metal on one side).

I put on a new chain and sprocket set about 2-3000 miles ago and this problem has just shown up within the last 500 miles or so and it's getting worse. I'm running 14/49 with a renthal sprocket on front and a steel JT on the back with a lower end RK chain with clip master link. The clip is on tight and installed correctly. I've tightened up the chain as much as I dare, about .5" play with the swingarm pivot, axle, and countershaft aligned.

Anybody ever have this annoying problem before?

Just something that seems plausible, are the sprockets/wheels aligned? Perhaps the rear wheel got knocked out of alignment at some point but not enough to be visibly noticeable. Then the sprocket starts pushing the chain to the sides and begins wearing funny, This misalignment then causes more weird wear on things around it. Just late night speculation on what seems like a simple cause to a recent problem without an obvious cause.
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Old 08-09-2012, 07:20 PM   #30027
freetors
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bhd1223 View Post
Just something that seems plausible, are the sprockets/wheels aligned? Perhaps the rear wheel got knocked out of alignment at some point but not enough to be visibly noticeable. Then the sprocket starts pushing the chain to the sides and begins wearing funny, This misalignment then causes more weird wear on things around it. Just late night speculation on what seems like a simple cause to a recent problem without an obvious cause.
Yes, I forgot to mention that I've checked the alignment. The sprockets are perfectly aligned, chain is arrow straight and not stretched. The axle is exactly the same distance from the SA pivot on both sides- this is measured, not using the axle blocks.

Front sprocket nut is on tight as are the rear sprocket bolts. I even tried shaking the rear wheel thinking maybe one of the wheel bearing possibly died but it's solid too.

I wish it was something so obvious
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Old 08-09-2012, 07:29 PM   #30028
The Breeze
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ramz View Post
So any given pump could have a good or bad motor in it - they all have the same Yamaha part number, so how would the warehouse parts pickers even be able to tell the difference?

I have a new spare fuel pump sitting on the shelf and I'm going to look at it to see if I can see the number on the motor and look back at posts where the pump was disassembled to see if I can tell if the motor in my pump is 'good' or 'bad'.
I was wondering the same thing......

Not sure if they differentiate with the part number....but there is definitely a difference (visually) between the two pumps (old vs. new).

If you go to "basherdesigns" website, he has a tutorial on replacing his fuel pump, and shows a picture of the old vs. new fuel pumps. A portion of the injection molded plastic on the new pump is "black" (majority of plastic is still white), vs. the old pump, in which the molded plastic is 100% white. Hopefully that makes sense....but if not, check out bashers site.
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Old 08-10-2012, 12:06 AM   #30029
Heoz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ramz View Post
So any given pump could have a good or bad motor in it - they all have the same Yamaha part number, so how would the warehouse parts pickers even be able to tell the difference?
http://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/t6460-new-fuel-pump - 1st post by railbird in the thread. Turns out that the production date is on the box.
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Old 08-10-2012, 03:20 AM   #30030
jon_l
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Location: Collingwood, Ontario
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikef5000 View Post
I would use a relay, but a distribution block shouldn't be necessary in a simple install.


85 to a switched positive, like a marker light wire, tail light, or license plate light.
86 to a ground
30 to the battery positive, with a fuse near the battery
87a to your accessories
87 is empty


A standard relay can easily handle 30 amps, so while a distribution block is handy you could run one relay to power all kinds of (switched) electronics:
Overpowered Headlight (or 55 watt HID): 5 amp
Heated Grips: 2.5 amp
Acc. plug (gps): 1 amp
Heated Jacket: 6 amp
LED Fog Lights: 5 amps

All that stuff at the same time is less than 20 amps.
Good info. Thanks!
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