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Old 08-16-2012, 08:49 PM   #30136
Honkey Cat
Tailights Fade!
 
Joined: May 2011
Location: SW Florida
Oddometer: 1,066
On The TAT Heating Problems

08 WRR 1300 miles. IMS 4.7 tank, flatland radiator guard. Bike started showing the temp ( idiot light in 70 degree weather ) slow down and for a few min and it would go away. Went to the yamaha dealership, fluid change in radiator and oil change ( there was 1/2 qt to much oil.) Rode the whole day up and down some knarly trails from salina colorado to gunnison with no issues, then on the way to the motel running about 70mph stupid temp light comes on again. Slow down it goes away. Placed my hand on the radiator cap ( with thin glove ) and the top tank of the radiator and I could keep my hand there for quite some time. Anybody have same issues. Oh yeah fan comes on and off like it should. Thinking it might be a correded swith for the idiot light. I know the fan has it's own sensor. Thanks. On my way to Portland.

Thanks

CJ
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Old 08-16-2012, 09:05 PM   #30137
RichardU
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Honkey Cat View Post
Anybody have same issues.
Check the cap. Make sure the rubber is super clean so it seals completely.
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Old 08-16-2012, 09:31 PM   #30138
DaymienRules
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: vancouver, bc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkey View Post
I have 2 questions if anyone can assist :-

1/ Does anyone know if they still manufacture Sweet Cheeks seat covers? It appears there website no longer operates.
Perhaps I should get the Airhawk seat cover?
2/ Can I run 14/43 sprocket setup successfully? I've the Athena BB kit on road tyres and the WR seems to over-rev at
highway speeds ( in Oz that's 100-110 kph or 60-65 mph). I'm planning a 700 klm highway trip soon, rider and gear
will weigh in at approx' 100 kg (220 lbs) so I guess it's not too heavy.

Thank you in advance once again, John.

Edit. Oops, currently running stock 13/43 sprockets.
I put easily 3,000 miles on while running 14/43 gearing. No damage, no rubbing, nothing worn out. It seemed I was was always reaching for a non-existent 7th gear, this gearing ratio gave it to me. All of that was with no more than a light backpack on, and I weigh about 150lbs., running pirelli mt90s. I would only run a 14/43 on the street, it would be frustrating off road.
I've also run 13/51(only for dirt) and 13/47. The 13/47 worked really well for a recent 1,100km trip loaded down with camping gear through forest roads. That was also with a much taller MT43 tire.
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Old 08-17-2012, 03:02 AM   #30139
Mr. Fisherman
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Joined: Oct 2006
Location: In the Cone of Shame
Oddometer: 10,571
Quote:
Originally Posted by Honkey Cat View Post
08 WRR 1300 miles. IMS 4.7 tank, flatland radiator guard. Bike started showing the temp ( idiot light in 70 degree weather ) slow down and for a few min and it would go away. Went to the yamaha dealership, fluid change in radiator and oil change ( there was 1/2 qt to much oil.) Rode the whole day up and down some knarly trails from salina colorado to gunnison with no issues, then on the way to the motel running about 70mph stupid temp light comes on again. Slow down it goes away. Placed my hand on the radiator cap ( with thin glove ) and the top tank of the radiator and I could keep my hand there for quite some time. Anybody have same issues. Oh yeah fan comes on and off like it should. Thinking it might be a correded swith for the idiot light. I know the fan has it's own sensor. Thanks. On my way to Portland.

Thanks

CJ

You can check to make sure the fan spins freely...

Also you can use the diagnostic mode to check that the temperature sensors, the relay and switches are all working correctly.

From the manual...

DIAGNOSTIC MODE
Setting the diagnostic mode
1. Turn the main switch to "OFF" and set the en*
gine stop switch to "ON".
2. Disconnect the wire harness coupler from the
fuel pump.
3. Simultaneously press and hold the
"SELECT1" "T'and "RESET" "2" buttons, turn
the main switch to "ON", and continue to
press the buttons for 8 seconds or more.
[IMG]file:///C:%5CDOCUME%7E1%5CMRFISH%7E1%5CLOCALS%7E1%5CTemp%5 Cmsohtml1%5C01%5Cclip_image002.jpg[/IMG]
NOTE:___________________________________
All displays on the meter disappear except the
clock and tripmeter displays.
"dlAG" appears on the clock LCD.

4. Press the "SELECT1" button to select the CO
adjustment mode "CO" or the diagnostic
mode "dlAG".
5. After selecting "dlAG", simultaneously press
the "SELECT" and "RESET" buttons for 2
seconds or more to execute the selection.
6. Set the engine stop switch to "OFF".
7. Select the diagnostic code number that ap*
plies to the item that was verified with the fault
code number by pressing the "SELECT1"
and "RESET" buttons.
NOTE:____________________________________
The diagnostic code number appears on the clock LCD (01-70).
To decrease the selected diagnostic code
number, press the "RESET" button. Press the
"RESET" button for 1 second or longer to auto*
matically decrease the diagnostic code num*
bers.
To increase the selected diagnostic code num*
ber, press the "SELECT" button. Press the
"SELECT" button for 1 second or longer to au*
tomatically increase the diagnostic code number
8. Verify the operation of the sensor or actuator.
Sensor operation
The data representing the operating condi*tions of the sensor appears on the trip LCD.
Actuator operation
Set the engine stop switch to "ON" to operate
the actuator.
NOTE:____________________________________
If the engine stop switch is set to "ON", set it to "OFF", and then set it to "ON" again.
9. Turn the main switch to "OFF" to cancel the
diagnostic mode.


You are looking for these three parameters...



21
Coolant temperature sen*sor-open or short circuit detected.
Open or short circuit in wire harness. Defective coolant temperature sensor. Malfunction in ECU.
06
22
Intake air temperature sen*sor-open or short circuit detected.
Open or short circuit in wire harness. Defective intake temperature sensor. Malfunction in ECU. Improperly installed intake air temperature sensor.
05



51

Radiator fan motor relay

Actuates the radiator fan motor relay for five times every sec*ond. (ON two seconds, OFF three seconds) Illuminates the engine trouble warning light.

Check the operating sound of the relay five times.

The intake and coolant temperature should be pretty close if the bike has not run and is cool to the touch. After it has been run the intake should be about ambient temperature and the coolant temperature should match coolant temp. This will tell you if all your sensors are working (not shorted) and the fan motor relay will check all the switches, relay and fan motor. You can remove the fan and check for looseness at the fan hub.

In my case I had buried my bike in a snow and rubble field and enough crap scooped through my tank to clog the fan... it continued to want to be on because it was hot and eventually the motor shaft spun off the fan and ate the hub until the fan lodged against the radiator and the fan motor seized. I didn't notice this at the time. It was three days later after seeing the red high temp warning light for the first time. I thought nothing of it because I was loaded for a 2 month trip towing a trailer and climbing several passes in the summer heat. The light would go out as I eased up or started descending. I found the toasted fan motor and destroyed fan blade when I changed my fuel pump after it died on me crossing the Arco Desert in 106 degree heat.







This was an expensive lesson for me... it cost about $180 for the replacement plus shipping.

I will be checking to make sure the fan is clear after picking the bike up from now on. This is a common failure on snowmobiles that get packed with snow. Some street bikes had fans with bad hubs that loosened when they started and stopped that eventually wallowed out. Lesson learned on my part. I hope this helps.

When you get to Portland Oregon look me up and I can help with this if you need it.
We also have a weekly get together on Thursdays and would enjoy hearing stories about your trip.

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Old 08-17-2012, 05:17 AM   #30140
pfy50
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Joined: Aug 2006
Location: Oneida, Tenn.
Oddometer: 456
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gryphon12 View Post
I've been away from this thread for awhile.


If there is a consensus here it is that 13/46 or 13/47 is a good overall compromise, that will go 90 mph with the right tires. .
Gryphon 12,

I run 13/47 and have all the standard mods AIS, Flapper, Open air box, FMF Q4 w/power bomb and programmer. All I can get is 80-81mph(gps checked) flat out (12-1300ft elev.). Stock OEM deathwings half worn. 90 mph might be possible with roadtires going down hill but not as a general rule; for me anyway.
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Old 08-17-2012, 06:06 AM   #30141
mikem9
Wanderer
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: North Georgia
Oddometer: 1,199
I have a question for WR250r owners who have significant offroad experience (raced hare scrambles, enduros etc) or experience riding trails at race oriented pace on a modern offroad bikes like KTM Exc, Husqvarna, WR450f etc.

What have you done to your bike to make it more offroad capable? How close have you been able to make it to the modern enduro bikes?

I'm considering one for the future in order to give me more range and dependability in my riding.
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Old 08-17-2012, 06:12 AM   #30142
mwalker
mike
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: western kentucky
Oddometer: 75
I've got a 2012 WR for sale 600 mi here
http://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/t7...12-wr-r-700-mi
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Old 08-17-2012, 06:21 AM   #30143
Honkey Cat
Tailights Fade!
 
Joined: May 2011
Location: SW Florida
Oddometer: 1,066
Tat

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Fisherman View Post
You can check to make sure the fan spins freely...

Also you can use the diagnostic mode to check that the temperature sensors, the relay and switches are all working correctly.

From the manual...

DIAGNOSTIC MODE
Setting the diagnostic mode
1. Turn the main switch to "OFF" and set the en*
gine stop switch to "ON".
2. Disconnect the wire harness coupler from the
fuel pump.
3. Simultaneously press and hold the
"SELECT1" "T'and "RESET" "2" buttons, turn
the main switch to "ON", and continue to
press the buttons for 8 seconds or more.
[IMG]file:///C:%5CDOCUME%7E1%5CMRFISH%7E1%5CLOCALS%7E1%5CTemp%5 Cmsohtml1%5C01%5Cclip_image002.jpg[/IMG]
NOTE:___________________________________
All displays on the meter disappear except the
clock and tripmeter displays.
"dlAG" appears on the clock LCD.

4. Press the "SELECT1" button to select the CO
adjustment mode "CO" or the diagnostic
mode "dlAG".
5. After selecting "dlAG", simultaneously press
the "SELECT" and "RESET" buttons for 2
seconds or more to execute the selection.
6. Set the engine stop switch to "OFF".
7. Select the diagnostic code number that ap*
plies to the item that was verified with the fault
code number by pressing the "SELECT1"
and "RESET" buttons.
NOTE:____________________________________
The diagnostic code number appears on the clock LCD (01-70).
To decrease the selected diagnostic code
number, press the "RESET" button. Press the
"RESET" button for 1 second or longer to auto*
matically decrease the diagnostic code num*
bers.
To increase the selected diagnostic code num*
ber, press the "SELECT" button. Press the
"SELECT" button for 1 second or longer to au*
tomatically increase the diagnostic code number
8. Verify the operation of the sensor or actuator.
Sensor operation
The data representing the operating condi*tions of the sensor appears on the trip LCD.
Actuator operation
Set the engine stop switch to "ON" to operate
the actuator.
NOTE:____________________________________
If the engine stop switch is set to "ON", set it to "OFF", and then set it to "ON" again.
9. Turn the main switch to "OFF" to cancel the
diagnostic mode.


You are looking for these three parameters...



21
Coolant temperature sen*sor-open or short circuit detected.
Open or short circuit in wire harness. Defective coolant temperature sensor. Malfunction in ECU.
06
22
Intake air temperature sen*sor-open or short circuit detected.
Open or short circuit in wire harness. Defective intake temperature sensor. Malfunction in ECU. Improperly installed intake air temperature sensor.
05



51

Radiator fan motor relay

Actuates the radiator fan motor relay for five times every sec*ond. (ON two seconds, OFF three seconds) Illuminates the engine trouble warning light.

Check the operating sound of the relay five times.

The intake and coolant temperature should be pretty close if the bike has not run and is cool to the touch. After it has been run the intake should be about ambient temperature and the coolant temperature should match coolant temp. This will tell you if all your sensors are working (not shorted) and the fan motor relay will check all the switches, relay and fan motor. You can remove the fan and check for looseness at the fan hub.

In my case I had buried my bike in a snow and rubble field and enough crap scooped through my tank to clog the fan... it continued to want to be on because it was hot and eventually the motor shaft spun off the fan and ate the hub until the fan lodged against the radiator and the fan motor seized. I didn't notice this at the time. It was three days later after seeing the red high temp warning light for the first time. I thought nothing of it because I was loaded for a 2 month trip towing a trailer and climbing several passes in the summer heat. The light would go out as I eased up or started descending. I found the toasted fan motor and destroyed fan blade when I changed my fuel pump after it died on me crossing the Arco Desert in 106 degree heat.







This was an expensive lesson for me... it cost about $180 for the replacement plus shipping.

I will be checking to make sure the fan is clear after picking the bike up from now on. This is a common failure on snowmobiles that get packed with snow. Some street bikes had fans with bad hubs that loosened when they started and stopped that eventually wallowed out. Lesson learned on my part. I hope this helps.

When you get to Portland Oregon look me up and I can help with this if you need it.
We also have a weekly get together on Thursdays and would enjoy hearing stories about your trip.

awesome, thanks. When we get to portland time permitting, I'll def. look you up.
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Old 08-17-2012, 06:37 AM   #30144
Mr. Fisherman
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Joined: Oct 2006
Location: In the Cone of Shame
Oddometer: 10,571
By the way, it was pointed out to me that the diagnostic codes are on the right. The numbers on the left are fault codes.

I hope this helps...

I hope to see you when you get here...
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Old 08-17-2012, 07:09 AM   #30145
Krabill
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Joined: Oct 2005
Location: Tulsa, OK
Oddometer: 4,637
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikem9 View Post
I have a question for WR250r owners who have significant offroad experience (raced hare scrambles, enduros etc) or experience riding trails at race oriented pace on a modern offroad bikes like KTM Exc, Husqvarna, WR450f etc.

What have you done to your bike to make it more offroad capable? How close have you been able to make it to the modern enduro bikes?

I'm considering one for the future in order to give me more range and dependability in my riding.
Remove:

- passenger pegs
- AIS system
- Airbox flapper
- Ex-up valve/servo
- stock rear lower fender
- stock turn signals

Add:

- skid plate
- hand guards
- LED turn signals/tail light
- FI tuner
- lower gearing
- knobbies

The most important mod is re-doing the suspension. It will still be heavier than your typical enduro bike, but it'll certainly run some tight single track this way.
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Old 08-17-2012, 09:04 AM   #30146
Loud Al
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Joined: Aug 2005
Location: Forest Grove, OR
Oddometer: 3,894
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krabill View Post
Remove:

- passenger pegs
Why, I find them a nice place to put my feet when I'm running down the road, or are you trying to save 6 oz
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Old 08-17-2012, 09:23 AM   #30147
Scott_PDX
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Joined: Oct 2010
Location: Portland...the newer one on the left side.
Oddometer: 2,802
Overheating

HonkeyCat,

Experienced the same exact situation on my 2011 WRR a couple weeks ago when riding in Utah and Colorado. I have the IMS 3.1 gallon, but I do have that same Flatland Rad guard. It would only come on when I was running high speeds/high RPM's. At low speeds high RPM's (Trails) it wouldn't come on. That's why I suspect that Flatland Radiator guard. That was the last change I did to the bike before I started getting that light to come on during my trip.

My "fix" has been to change to Engine Ice Coolant (CycleGear or MotorCorsa in Portland has it on the shelf), and added a thermometer on my Radiator Cap [see picture of it 3 pages ago on this thread]). Only done some test rides so far so can't confirm if the Engine Ice will work yet (I need to load the hell out of it and ride it hard first to match the conditions).

Next step is to cut away some of the Rad guard or switch back to the stock plastic cover that diverts more air onto the radiator.

Let us know what your Cause/Fix is. And good luck on your trip.

-= Scott


Quote:
Originally Posted by Honkey Cat View Post
08 WRR 1300 miles. IMS 4.7 tank, flatland radiator guard. Bike started showing the temp ( idiot light in 70 degree weather ) slow down and for a few min and it would go away. Went to the yamaha dealership, fluid change in radiator and oil change ( there was 1/2 qt to much oil.) Rode the whole day up and down some knarly trails from salina colorado to gunnison with no issues, then on the way to the motel running about 70mph stupid temp light comes on again. Slow down it goes away. Placed my hand on the radiator cap ( with thin glove ) and the top tank of the radiator and I could keep my hand there for quite some time. Anybody have same issues. Oh yeah fan comes on and off like it should. Thinking it might be a correded swith for the idiot light. I know the fan has it's own sensor. Thanks. On my way to Portland.

Thanks

CJ
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Old 08-17-2012, 09:43 AM   #30148
Krabill
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Joined: Oct 2005
Location: Tulsa, OK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loud Al View Post
Why, I find them a nice place to put my feet when I'm running down the road, or are you trying to save 6 oz
Out of all the unnecessary equipment you can remove from a WR250R, the passenger pegs are by far the heaviest, thus saving the most weight.

I do put them on for long road rides, like my trip to Michigan, but when I'm just trail riding, they come off.
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Old 08-17-2012, 09:51 AM   #30149
Sewerat
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Location: Brooksdale, ON
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loud Al View Post
Why, I find them a nice place to put my feet when I'm running down the road, or are you trying to save 6 oz
My exact thought. I found when I bought the wrr that it seemed ridiculous to try and save a few ounces here and there removing silly little parts when it was much easier to lose lbs off the rider.
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Old 08-17-2012, 10:09 AM   #30150
ramz
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Salida, CO
Oddometer: 1,964
Quote:
I found when I bought the wrr that it seemed ridiculous to try and save a few ounces here and there removing silly little parts when it was much easier to lose lbs off the rider.
Yeah, but the weight stays off the bike once you take it off...

As some inmates know, I remove everything that I consider superfluous, even things like the helmet lock. It's an attitude I have developed over the years, and by paying attention to even tiny parts, you get very good at recognizing what you can get by with. You would surely laugh at what I have been removing from my new CRF250L, but if I keep it up, soon it'll be as light as my WRR. I may have to acid-dip the frame to get those last few ounces
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