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Old 08-17-2012, 11:24 AM   #30151
xplodee
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Joined: Aug 2012
Location: Bethlehem, PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ramz View Post
You would surely laugh at what I have been removing from my new CRF250L, but if I keep it up, soon it'll be as light as my WRR. I may have to acid-dip the frame to get those last few ounces
Pleas post details in the CRF250L thread ;)
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Old 08-17-2012, 12:09 PM   #30152
Daamud
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Location: In the 715, Wisconsin, U.S.A.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krabill View Post
Out of all the unnecessary equipment you can remove from a WR250R, the passenger pegs are by far the heaviest, thus saving the most weight.

I do put them on for long road rides, like my trip to Michigan, but when I'm just trail riding, they come off.
What ever you do, don't ship them on your dime, to an inmate in Texas, thinking you'll get some hot sauce and a thank you in return......
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Old 08-17-2012, 12:42 PM   #30153
ramz
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Quote:
Pleas post details in the CRF250L thread ;)
See my CRF250L mods page:
http://rickramsey.net/CRF250Lmods.htm

There's not much there now, but I should have a bunch more tonight.
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Old 08-17-2012, 12:59 PM   #30154
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Location: Troy, OHIO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeefZah View Post
I used them after the second time my left seal started puking oil.

The left one lasted about 200 miles before the compression action of the fork and the pressure of the fork protector wore a hole in it.

If they had remained intact I guess thay might do the trick but with a quarter sized hole right where the seal is they served no purpose; I cut them off.
+1 I wore holes in mine too. :( Z@ch was saying we could switch to the black WRX protectors to help with this problem of rubbing the seals. You can buy new fork protectors for about 21 bucks from Wheeling Supply.
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Old 08-17-2012, 04:22 PM   #30155
Crawdaddy
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Radiator Fan

Time to get off my ass and replace my busted rad fan.......anyone have a link for OEM or aftermarket replacement sources
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Old 08-17-2012, 07:12 PM   #30156
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$114.44 at Service Honda!!!

http://www.servicehondapsn.com/fiche...008&fveh=18085
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Old 08-17-2012, 11:57 PM   #30157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottmac View Post
Thanks!
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Old 08-18-2012, 08:21 AM   #30158
byron555
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gryphon12 View Post
I


































































If there is a consensus here it is that 13/46 or 13/47 is a good overall compromise, that will go 90 mph with the right tires. Tires do matter when selecting your gearing. Going 14/46 gets you just below stock gearing, which is good for the street, while 14/43 is quite low, with some suggesting that you won't be able to "pull" 6th gear at this ratio of 3.07:1. From what I can tell, going 13/46 or 47 or 48 leaves you room to go with a 14 tooth CS for longer street rides without having to change your chain length. The only place this won't work is on very rough terrain when you really need gearing taller than 3.70:1 (e.g. 13/50 or 13/52). Any choice is a compromise. Choose yours.

If you are buying a new chain, go with 14-49 it works great and adds swing arm clearance. Great all around ratio... If you are planning to do a lot of off road/single-track, throw the 13 on and it is really good off road, but crap on the hwy
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Old 08-18-2012, 07:36 PM   #30159
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over heating light issues. HELP before it goes off cliff by accudent

Ran diagnosttic ( thanks fishy ) did have a tps code and side stand code. Went over cinamon pass, California pass beating ceap out of bike no over heat light. Get on highway again ( where light came on and off first time ) cruising for 10 min. Over heat light comes on at about 65, let off gas coast to 50 light goes off, as soon as light goes off I drop the hammer to 70 for 5 min. Light comes back on let off for a min. Light back on, the sec it goes off hammer down to 70 for 6 min until light comes back on. Any thoughts. Of course bike has issues on tba weekend when nothings opened. In miab now.
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Old 08-18-2012, 09:43 PM   #30160
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We had the same issue with a wrr i. Colorado a few weeks ago, but it was the cel. His air filter was plugged and the bike would throw a light under load at speed ( same scenario). He cleaned it and opened the airbox door and all was good.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Honkey Cat View Post
Ran diagnosttic ( thanks fishy ) did have a tps code and side stand code. Went over cinamon pass, California pass beating ceap out of bike no over heat light. Get on highway again ( where light came on and off first time ) cruising for 10 min. Over heat light comes on at about 65, let off gas coast to 50 light goes off, as soon as light goes off I drop the hammer to 70 for 5 min. Light comes back on let off for a min. Light back on, the sec it goes off hammer down to 70 for 6 min until light comes back on. Any thoughts. Of course bike has issues on tba weekend when nothings opened. In miab now.
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Old 08-19-2012, 05:00 AM   #30161
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Location: Northern Ontario
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byron555 View Post
If you are buying a new chain, go with 14-49 it works great and adds swing arm clearance.
I recently switched to 14 x 49 and am very pleased with the combo. The speedo is now showing 15 kmh too fast at around 100 kmh. I pinned it and maxed at 140 kmh which corrected is just under 80 mph. Bike has no mods with Kenda K270's.The Kenda's threw off the speedo by 3-4 kmh compared to worn OEM tires. Now I can putter through the rough stuff. Also the nasty hills can be climbed in second gear which was often too tall with the stock gearing. I find I don't have to shift as often on the hwy and dirt roads. I just leave it in 6 th now on the hwy.
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Old 08-19-2012, 08:08 AM   #30162
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Let's make some noise.........

Ordered a replacement rad fan (thanks scottmac).......time to take care of a few other odds and ends like horn and grips.....

My horn is toast. Has anyone replaced their stock horn with a horn of similar form/fit factor but more volume?........I don't use it often but I'd like it to make some noise when I need it.....

Found this one online: http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...orts-Horn/HORN
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Crawdaddy screwed with this post 08-19-2012 at 08:28 AM
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Old 08-19-2012, 08:22 AM   #30163
DougZ73
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head bearings?

Anyone have an issue with these getting some play in them? I have a tad of play I just noticed. I plan to tighten up initially, and then repack with some new grease in near future.
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Old 08-19-2012, 08:25 AM   #30164
byron555
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I did

Quote:
Originally Posted by Crawdaddy View Post
Ordered a replacement rad fan (thanks scottmac).......time to take care of a few other odds and ends like horn and grips.....

My horn is toast. Has anyone replaced their stock horn with a horn of similar form/fit factor but more volume?........I don't use it often but I'd like it to make some noise when I need it.....

Found this one online: http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/ac.../0/detail.aspx
I have a FIAMM high tone blaster horn on my bike, 90+ Decibels?? I forgot what it is rated, a lot louder though. nearly twice the diameter and mounted in the stock location.
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WR250R... 15 cubic inches of raw power.
WRr re-build
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=997633
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Old 08-19-2012, 08:29 AM   #30165
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the horn is pictured here

Quote:
Originally Posted by byron555 View Post
On the other side of the tool tube
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